5 semanas y 4 días de flora

Α,α (alpha) and Ω,ω(omega) Here we grow again. LAST GROW. 344g+280g+445g+255g=1324g dry bud. Yielding 1,324 grams of dry cannabis using a 600W light in a 4x4 tent is exceptionally efficient. This breaks down to roughly 2.21 grams per watt, far exceeding the standard indoor benchmark of 1.0 g/W and outperforming elite professional targets (1.5–2.0 g/W). For carbon and energy efficiency, this output drastically lowers the carbon cost per gram compared to typical indoor grows. Achieving 1,324 grams (47.2 ounces) of dry cannabis from a 600W light in a 4x4 tent is exceptional, yielding roughly 2.21 grams per watt. This is an elite-tier result that reflects world-class photosynthetic conversion, highly optimized canopy light distribution, dialled-in CO2 supplementation, and precise environmental control. Growing 1.3kg of dry in a 2x2 with 1 plant is just being silly and not understanding how carbon and energy conversion works towards mass. Took 6 years and 10,000+ Hours to break the 2 grams-per-watt barrier not exactly 600W, in honesty, though—even with modern, high-efficiency LEDs—is an incredible feat that requires hitting the absolute genetic ceiling of the cultivar and maintaining flawless environmental parameters for the space. Photosynthesis is the literal conversion of light energy (photons) into chemical energy (carbohydrates). Leaf temperature, driven by radiation from fixtures and mitigated by latent heat of vaporization (transpiration), dictates metabolic rates. If your room's thermal dynamics are off, enzyme activity inside the plant stalls, grinding growth to a halt. Anyone else pretending to have done so with nothing but Plagron nutrients at 75F is telling porkie pies *cough*, otherwise known as a liar, liar with a bum that's on fire, but it seems that's the new norm these days on GD. *cough cough*. Using copper and zinc plates in the plant medium to form a natural earth battery to assist with Electrochemical Reactance. The moist soil acts as an electrolyte, while zinc serves as the anode and copper as the cathode. Zinc is a highly reactive metal and oxidizes, losing electrons into the soil. These electrons travel through an external wire to the copper plate. The moisture and dissolved salts in your plant medium allow charged ions to move freely between the plates, completing the circuit and generating a small direct current (usually between 0.8 and 1.1 volts). This micro-current subtly alters/the Electrical Conductivity (EC), allowing more effective breaking apart of chemical bonds in the soil (electrolysis), making soil nutrients like phosphorus, calcium, and potassium more accessible to roots. Buried the zinc plates around the sides of the plant pot's root zone and the copper plate in the middle. Ran an insulated copper wire above ground to connect the zinc plate to the copper plate, creating a closed loop. Making sure the soil remains perfectly moist and contains everything it needs; entirely distilled water or bone-dry medium will prevent ion exchange and block the current. Leave that up to the rhizosphere. Currently testing new parameters for a couple of weeks. Seeing what she can do with a new and upgraded ducting closed loop and double the water capacity. Also added 6kg of inoculated biochar along with a slew of small improvements. Keeping an eye on. Zinc toxicity vs. consumption, given how sacrificial zinc is. Want to make sure the biochar stabilizes first. A Synganic closed-loop bioengineering-logic grow room merges synthetic inputs (precision minerals/chelated nutrients) with an organic living soil matrix (microbial life/bio-stimulants), managed via automated, data-driven automation. Master Operating Procedure (MOP): The system balances a sterile environment with a thriving, dynamic rhizosphere, merging the biological resilience of living organic soil with the high-precision chemical control of modern Controlled Environment Agriculture (CEA). Synganic blends a biologically active living soil or microbe-rich substrate with targeted, low-dose mineral or synthetic fertigation to optimize both metabolic yield and secondary metabolite expression (terpenes/flavonoids). What else is alive! Eisenia fetida (Red Wigglers) will continuously process organic matter into plant-available nutrients and aerate the media. Stratiolaelaps scimitus (Hypoaspis mites) provides excellent biological control against fungus gnats and pupating thrips. Armadillidium vulgare (Pillbugs) excel at breaking down tough, woody organic matter and toxic heavy metals. New "Closed-Loop Sealing" Isolates the internal microclimate from external weather, vectors, and pests. Air is scrubbed 264nm UV-C, recirculated, and enriched rather than openly exhausted. Operational Parameters (MOP Framework). Microbes act as biological buffers for the mineral inputs, preventing salt toxicity and ensuring continuous nutrient availability. Precise management of Vapour Pressure Deficit (VPD) day and night to force optimal stomatal conductance without stressing the biological media. Strict clean-room protocols prevent pathogen intrusion while maintaining non-sterile, highly active beneficial bacteria and fungi populations in the root zone. Looking at a grow room as a closed-loop system changes everything. You aren't "growing a plant"; you are managing a mass and energy balance equation where the plant is a biological transducer. Every watt of light introduces sensible heat. Every drop of water turns into latent heat via transpiration. When a deficiency appears, a grower flushes or adds a bottle of "magic" additive. A master looks at the HVAC duty cycle, realizes the dew point spiked, the stomata closed, and calcium transport stalled due to lack of transpiration, not lack of nutrients. Protocol-driven logic can be automated, replicated, and optimized. Legacy growing and anecdotal habits fail the moment the room moisture volume changes. ADD CALMAG! Comprehensive Substrate Composition: Because why not. 1. Substrate Base & Aeration Media Expanded Clay Aggregates (Hydroton Pebbles) Coir Chunks & Horticultural Coco Coir Sphagnum Peat Moss Horticultural Perlite Horticultural Vermiculite Horticultural Pumice Volcanic Basalt Rock 2. Mineral Amendments & Soil Conditioners Agricultural Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) Wollastonite (Calcium Silicate) Dolomitic Limestone (Calcium Magnesium Carbonate) Basalt Rock Dust (Trace Mineralizer) Azomite (Micronutrient-Rich Volcanic Ash) Glauconite (Greensand) Crushed Seashells (Calcium Carbonate Source) Pyrolyzed Carbon Feedstocks (Biochar & Horticultural Charcoal) Shungite (Carbonaceous Mineraloid) 3. Organic Nutrient Amendments Steamed Bone Meal (High Phosphorus) Dehydrated Blood Meal (High Nitrogen) Fish Bone Meal (Phosphorus & Trace Calcium) Cold-Processed Kelp Meal (Ascophyllum nodosum) Dehydrated Moringa Oleifera Powder (Botanical Nutrient) Spirulina Powder (Arthrospira platensis / Cyanobacteria Nutrient) Marine Crustacean Biomass (Shrimp & Crab Chitin) 4. Biological Inoculants & Organic Acids Mycorrhizal Fungi Inoculant (Endomycorrhizae / Ectomycorrhizae) Vermicompost (Premium Worm Castings) Humic & Fulvic Acids (Concentrated Humates) Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC): An ecological concept referring to the pathway of water moving from the soil, through the plant, and into the atmosphere. Humidity of the air dictates the moisture in the medium, which dictates the rate of pull from the terracotta stakes 15 in total. Terracotta (unglazed, low-fired clay) is highly porous, acting as a breathable, permeable membrane that transports water based on the moisture gradient between the potting medium (soil) and the surrounding air. White terracotta and brown terracotta often have different pore sizes and overall porosity, primarily driven by differences in clay composition, impurities, and firing temperatures. While both are considered porous, brown terracotta often has higher iron content and impurities that behave as fluxes, affecting how the pores form during firing, while white terracotta is generally derived from more refined clays, with smaller pores making it more suited to pure water. This mechanism is driven by capillary action and evaporation. When the surrounding soil is dry, the terracotta acts as a wick, pulling water out of the pot and into the soil. If the soil is very saturated, the terracotta absorbs water from the soil and allows it to evaporate from its outer surface, increasing the drying rate of the soil. Terracotta tends to keep the potting mix at an optimal saturation point, wicking up more water when the outside surface evaporates water into the air. The greater the difference in moisture between the soil and the outside air, the faster the water transfers through the ceramic. In low humidity and hot weather, the evaporation rate from the terracotta surface is high, creating a rapid drying effect. Newer terracotta pots often have a denser, lighter-toned structure that is less porous than traditional, red-orange terracotta, slowing down the moisture transfer rate. Over time, dissolved salts from fertilizer or tap water build up and block the pores, reducing the permeability of the clay. Water is all that is used or needed, thanks to the biochar and the massive storage bank of nutrients. Just waiting until something creeps up. Clay pot irrigation (Ollas), an ancient farming practice, utilizes this property by burying unglazed jars in the soil, allowing water to slowly seep into the surrounding soil only when the soil dries out. Remember to clean terracotta stakes in mild acid after each grow. Submerge the stakes in a solution of 1 part distilled white vinegar to 3 or 4 parts water. Let the stakes soak for 20 to 30 minutes. You will hear a fizzing sound as the acid reacts with and dissolves the mineral salts. Use a stiff-bristled brush or an old toothbrush to scrub away the loosened residue. Rinse the stake thoroughly in clean water to wash away any leftover vinegar. BOOM good for next grow! Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils. Electrical Conductivity refers to how easily a material or solution allows electrons or ions to flow continuously when an electrical potential is applied. Electrochemical Reactance is the opposition to alternating current (AC) caused specifically by the temporary storage of energy in electric or magnetic fields, rather than energy being lost as heat. Reactance does not directly alter a material's intrinsic electrical conductivity. Instead, it dictates how the system stores and releases energy over time, which creates a temporary barrier to current flow in AC circuits. Together with resistance, reactance makes up total impedance. Electrical impedance (the combination of resistance and reactance) in the rhizosphere dictates how easily ions and water move into plant roots, directly impacting the Electron Transport Rate (ETR). High impedance restricts ion mobility, leading to nutrient deficiencies that decrease ETR and stunt overall plant growth. Electrolysis in the rhizosphere can reduce the direct ATP energy cost for a plant by electrochemically altering soil chemistry, changing pH gradients, and splitting or reducing compounds so that nutrients become easier to absorb or break down. Electrolysis uses an external electrical voltage to drive chemical reactions (like splitting water or reducing ions). This external electricity performs thermodynamic work on the soil solution. Rather than directly fueling plant enzymatic machinery or lowering biological ATP synthesis costs inside root cells, electrochemical reactions alter surrounding nutrient forms (e.g., changing pH, altering redox states, or breaking tight mineral bonds). By electrochemically making mineral ions more mobile or bioavailable, the plant may spend less root exudate carbon or membrane-transport ATP trying to scavenge locked nutrients, though the plant's baseline respiration and ATP costs for active uptake still apply. Laws of math are conceptual, laws of math are universal, the laws of math are invariant, and the laws of math are exceptionless. The laws of mathematics are the foundational rules that govern structure, quantity, space, and change. Unlike the laws of physics, which describe how our specific universe behaves, mathematical laws are absolute truths independent of physical reality. Think of electricity like highway traffic to easily understand the difference between the movement, the road, and the speed. •Electron Flow is the traffic (the cars moving). •Electrical Conductivity is the highway (how wide and smooth the road is). •Electron Transport Rate (ETR) is the speedometer (how many cars pass by per second). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Mass is effectively "congealed" energy. Energy is just numbers. Energy isn't a physical "substance" you can hold or touch. It is essentially an abstract, calculated number that we assign to a system to predict how it will change, interact, or move. A numerical label we attach to matter to track how it behaves. ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the primary energy carrier in cells, including plant cells. It powers various cellular activities like nutrient uptake, protein synthesis, and cell division. Without ATP, the plant's metabolic machinery would grind to a halt, regardless of the presence of nutrients, oxygen, or carbon. Nutrients, like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, are essential for building plant tissues and various molecules. They are incorporated into proteins, nucleic acids, and other vital compounds. While crucial, their uptake and utilization rely on ATP-driven processes. Oxygen is vital for cellular respiration, a process that generates ATP. While plants can produce ATP through photosynthesis, oxygen is essential for maximizing ATP production in mitochondria through oxidative phosphorylation. Carbon is the backbone of all organic molecules, including carbohydrates synthesized during photosynthesis. It's the fundamental building block of plant structures and fuels. However, its incorporation into organic molecules is also ATP-dependent. We don't grow we facilitate energy conversion. Everything is energy. Energy is represented by numbers. Numbers are frozen music. Music is moving sacred geometry of the Uni-verse.

Daytime smoke, nighttime smoke. Depends when you go to bed. Photos shot with Nikon D5600 with various lighting and stop settings Videos shot on Samsung Galaxy S8 and cut with inShot00

I added a humidifier this week to the tent to stabilize humidity.This addition is working great at the moment. The plants showed signs of decent growth in there new home early in the week so I decided to top them. After a couple of days from there topping they are starting to take off with growth.I hope I can cut some clones in a couple weeks and than we will head into flower.Growth is in full effect as you can see by the video. Lowering my PH to 5.5 seems to have quelled the cal-mag deficiency I had in the cups.The bounce back from transplant shock was great this week. I was able to top them on schedule and all are reacting well.

Bonjour je reviens avec des photo est des avis sur ma purple quenn auto mis en terre le 16 août 2021 elle mais extrêmement de temp à fleurir et semble avoir des difficultés à finir sa floraison elle est dans un pot en tissu de 14 cm de haut maos très large avec 30 grm d engrais à diffusion lente de royal quenn seed avis photo svp !

Both Barbarian (=AK-47 x Barbara Bud) plants continue to grow and now start to develop the first flower clusters. They both have a healthy green color and love the Advanced Nutrients feeding schedule. The Barbarian plant#1 is still shorter than plant#2, but both have bushed out fine now and continue to grow more budding sites. After this week I will take off the biggest fan leaves for defoliation in order to let the light penetrate better thru the canopy.

I found an awesome strain with four seeds and tested three of them. The smell was pure vanilla gas—super stinky and strong. Phenotype 1 was the best, with amazing density and a frosty look. It was a heavy yielder too, giving over 7 ounces from a 1-liter COCO. The terpene profile is incredible, tasting just like cookie dough. Would I grow this strain again? Definitely! I even saved a clone. I'd rate it a perfect 10/10

This was a great run overall. Nothing to complain about once she got into the pot and tent but herself. She flourished and did great with topping. Hoping she smokes real good. Lights now off. Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/

Day 92: Moved the lights to a different hanging formation to get a few more inches up, was at 16" distance in most areas. I probably only have one more trick up my sleeve to get another inch or two if I need it. Video to give a full view. Day 93: Fed with 1Gal of purified water, 6.65 Ph. Day 94: Seems to be filling out, both leaves yet again, and buds now too. Day 95: Power outage yesterday about 3hrs before typical lights out. Battery backup to the timer function in the power strip is probably dead or jostled out of place. It wasn't notice until it had been off for 90 mins, so we choose to leave the light off for the rest of the day as I didn't want to stress anything out by having the lights off for 90m on for 90m and then off again for 12h. Day 96: Well I certainly understand the fruity smell growers referenced. Shout out to RockyRidger for the heads up - the smell is pervasive in the room even with the carbon filter in the tent. Wonderfully fruity and less musky, a bit diesel or citrus if you really get in there. I did another short round of defoliation, much less and more cautious than before. She has little crystals everywhere (better seen in white light tomorrow) near the buds and pistils. I can't seem to get the stickiness off my hands now and I've washed them three times with degreasing soap! Pics in the red spec as I kept just red on for 5 mins longer than normal as I finished up and fed her and wanted to get at least a pic or two in for today. Fed with 1Gal purified water. 2tsp FFBB, 1tsp FFGB, 1.5tsp FFTB, 2ml AN B-52. 6.71pH / 825ppm in, 6.52pH / 1200 ppm out. Day 97: Better shots of some of the glitter we've got going on. Day 98: 🎶 ooo, that smell 🎶 (Day 28 Flowering)

Im coming closer to the ✂️ time, i tried some pics without the lights on to show a more realistic approach of how plants are evolving besides al the self inflicted plages and nutrients burn , i can wait to the plants mature while im searching for the 🕵️‍♂️to check if thricome ratio should be mostly amber ... Because fuck im such a sedative whore, big gaz leaks homies!!!!

2 Girls 1 Cup week 8 is it?? Looks like GC is on week 4 still 🤣. Day 49- big defol on GC tonight, mild prune on the right side also. Few strategic plucks on WG to help share the light evenly. My fingers are sticky asf and STINK like lemon/lime and gas. Changed RES yesterday, modified week 3 GHE bloom medium feed. Breakdown as follows: 5 gal tap/RO 20mL calmag Micro - 26.5mL Grow - 26.5mL Bloom - 41mL RES totals after PH corrections - 1148 @ 5.63 ====================================================================================================================== Day 50- where to start.... fuck.. well, i was wondering if my TDS was accurate or not. never checked it against another meter until today... and lets just say its been OFF the whole damn time!! i tested it against two other meters. one cheapo from amazon, and one from a zero water pitcher. TDS reading from each in order from current>amazon>zerowater.. 930, 642, 616. checked online and they are all on the 500 scale. so i dialed the "current" meter back to 616 to match the brand new zero water meter. never really trusted the cheapo amazon one TBH.. went ahead and topped off with 1.5L and gave them a 1/1/2 mL shot of M/G/B to boost the RES numbers a bit. currently sitting at 662 @ 5.84. so i guess GHE calculations havent been anywhere near the ballpark like i thought. maybe they were using the same damn meter i have currently, set EXACTLY as far off as mine was from factory 🤣. IDKWTF happened there, but its a good thing i started light and worked up following their signs. even though the meter was off, it was still giving me information that was useable. should have left it where it was, but my OCD would haunt me until it was adjusted. plucked a few on WG tonight and left my fingers sticky and stinky. GC keeps stretching, refusing to hit full flower still.. Sorry Herbies, i know you all exaggerate the finish times... but come on now lol... theres no way this one would finish in the time they state online.. FastBuds Wedding Glue on the other hand... she may be short, but shes STOCKY. she'll just get fatter too. who knew i liked fat chicks?? ====================================================================================================================== Day 51- few plucks here and there on WG. have to be careful now because these leaves are what's going to last the next few weeks. Can't take too many, can't leave it closed up. Since I won't be able to flush, i may do a multi harvest on WG and give GC a lil more time to hurry TF up and do her thing. I hate waisting... anticipation is building for the end. Not only to see these girls come to a finish.. but to set up the new system "correctly". Using things learned in this experiment. ====================================================================================================================== Day 53- not much to report other than the typical random strategic plucks on WG and more abuse to GC. been adding a booster to the RES every other top off. Ends up being once a day. One top off calmag'd water, one calmag'd water with a 0/1/2mL (M/G/B) per L added. Gave em a .5mL bump of M today since I've only been boosting it with G & B for the last 2 days. *edit* my dumbass forgot to set timelapse interval from 3sec to 45sec and the vid is 1.8gb long.. going to just skip today's footage. ====================================================================================================================== Day 55- GC is trying to catch up from the looks of it. It's like 3 weeks behind schedule 🤣🤣. Was going to defol the shit out of it again, but may leave it for another day or two. Once it takes WG's sun, it's getting snipped again. Forgot to mention more GC abuse from yesterday, or the day before. Didnt take a pic so I'm leaving it up to my memory. kinda accidently, purposely, tripped and precisely stabbed the main with some pointy tweezers... about half way in, and may have accidently twisted a bit before and while pulling it out... oops.. what's a lil more stress on GC right?? Maybe I'll have to trip every so many days and see if it has a positive effect 🤣. Will try and snap a pic of GC main at some point. ====================================================================================================================== As always, thanks for stopping by and checking out my current grow experiment. Check back to see when I mess it up 🤣 check out the up to date timelapse from day 27 on @ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZxJgAYve2s

Yo la fam attention les yeux 🔥🔥🔥🌱🔥

Esta semana seguimos con la floración para dejarla solo 1 semana más en fase vegetativa 😃 Durante esta semana y la que viene empezaremos a reducir los nutrientes para que poco a poco vaya teniendo los alimentos de floración y haga su transcurso como debe. Por el momento tiene un sistema radicular muy solido con un gran tronco creado en estas 7 semanas 💪 Esperemos que siga con la misma fuerza que hasta ahora 😊

So I had absolutely no ill effect on the plants at at all moving from the green buzz veg feed too the house & garden soil a&b feeds, I did not even given them a water only inbetween the two, I also went straight in with 50% the recommended dose stated on the house & Gardens bottles this switched happened the day before week 5 none showed any signed of defects or deficiency intact they exploded into life over night and then every day after that, I have been using the green buzz fast buds as a folar spry appied too the leaves of the early flower formation after lights out, They seemed too love that too and I also kept the note roots going in, I also started too apply C-RESULT at the fullbl dose stated on the bottle, The plants live this stuff if you have not tried it do it, I am not sponcered by c-result I was given this by my local grow store, It brings all the nutrients straight too the roots it states, All I know is this stuff triggers the plants too suck the pots dry in 24 hours, So make sure you have your feed bucket fully in order before adding this stuff as a mistake here could cost you, But get it right and in 24 hours these little autos doubled in size, It states too used week one of flower only and smells like a sewer lol I have today day one of week 6 Started too add house & garden Bud XL at half strength too increase next week and also I added there top shooter at 1ml per liter of water as 7 as I plan too removed all chemicals exactly as of day 1 of week 7 leaving me week 9 clean, I am training all the shooting tips too my scrog netting the best I can due too very limited space in the grow space, And am praying for some of the promised purple leaves on the fast buds Web site, I has on lemon pie this round that is 2 weeks behind the rest due too non germination but I am wondering if a staggered planting each plant exactly one week behind each other would give me a little more canapé space and the treat of harvesting a plant every week, Using the skyline 1000 only I did not too any of these autos 2 x strawberry cheese cake 2 x lemon pie 4 x fyah Sounds like a plan too me, Thanks for reading

- Going to start with 16x seeds with no back ups, hopefully 16/16 will germinate :) Using Mars H. Ts1000 instead of 1250W custom one. - Seeds straight outta fridge, waited 15-20 min for frost effect to shake, planted right into rockwools and added mid to warm tap water with 6.3 PH & put a fridge bag and rounded it around instead of the cap of the germination tray just to try something new. - I started watering manually and might use drip/hydroponics depending on the torture level and will update the system & add/type here every detail. - I will use Advanced Nutrients first whole series from beginner/hobyist to grand master, will be my 5th grow with this series. After germination, depending on the roots and their overall health, I might use ROOT !T first feed. Since they're autos, it'll be tricky. - Going to be my 5th grow ever and this particular grow includes 10th to 26th numbered (all until now) plants I ever grew.

Brought to u by Mars Hydro. Grow on Earth. Grow with Mars 🚀🚀 All pics and videos taken day 28. Almost half way there. Rice is frosty, Simily not so much. Eat. Sleep. Grow 🌲🌲

How big and wide she get under the evo-4 80 its crazy, i think she its the biggest one i ever grow. And how dark she turn with the Master recepi from advanced nutrients its amazing. Love that stuff as well

1/21: I rotated the edge plants and foliar fed with big bloom a few times today. 1/22: I fed them about 3/4 gallon each after top-dressing their pots with a heaping tablespoon of happy frog cavern culture( bat and seabird guano). That will make some P and K available to them over the next 2 weeks as they begin to flower. Aside from that, I went with full strength veg nutes because I'm still seeing some yellowing and som cal-mag deficiencies. I also added some more liquid molasses. They're gonna need the energy as they start their stretch. I foliar fed a few times throughout the day with big bloom. 1/23: EXPLOSIVE GROWTH last night...love it...everybody is stretching...pretty sure the 14/10 photoperiod is working!! I foliar fed with big bloom a few times today. 1/24: These girls all look to be very indica in leaf shape and are outpacing everything else in the garden. 1/25: I tied down the main of the tallest one today, then watered with about a half-gallon each including cal-mag, humic acid, bembe, armor si, and signal. 1/26: Damnit these bitches are gonna be a pain in my ass. They are growing so much faster than all the other plants., and if everybody else doesn't catch up in the next couple of days, I'll have no choice but to supercrop all their branches. 1/27: That's it for week 5-