1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This one was Baked in Paris by PerfectTreeSeeds, grown with GreenPlanetNutrients only! Check the other weeks to see the ones with AptusPlantTech! Great zkittles terpz, awesome structure, beautiful colours. So, this is the one I liked the most since day one, love her colours, her structure and her smell, but precisely because of that I was too excited to harvest her that I forgot to take proper photos so I leave the ones of her last days .. Will try to update soon with some pictures of her on the drying screen ahah

Works?

Second run with these genetics, I ran her last time in a 5.4 gallon container, I got the grape pheno, higher yield with the first run, but much tighter nugs with this run. This one smells much more earthy/gassey and less grapey. I ended up with just under 26 zips of nugs, 2 zips of Larf which I will turn into canna sugar, and my buddy made a 35 gram brick of bubble from the trim. It should be dry in the next few days and I'll post a video of the squeeze, hoping to get around a zip of rosin which I will split with him since he turned the bubble...Super excited to squeeze some nugs once the cure is done, Ill post vids of them as wel. Next run I'm planning to try and cram 2 plants inside a 5X5, build mainlines, and flip by week 6 or 7....Switching to two 315 W CMH bulbs up top, and LED's on 2 of the sidewalls for supplemental lighting. Looking forward to it, stay safe, blaze on!

November 9 2025. DAY 63 OF FLOWER, 9 WEEKS I harvested early this morning before the light turned on. Cut her down whole before the lights and the sun. Had everything ready, so I put up coffee and grow videos. I wet trimmed this time, because I will be busy in the following weeks. I want to get an even dry and start curing ASAP. I have the jars ready. Finger Hash was ridiculously sticky. Had to clean the trimmers in between. Took about an hour to trim. I have a damp towel in the outdoor closet with the hanging plant. Colder outside for a slower dry. Smoke report coming soon. I have 4 clones in flower going right now. 2 clones of Pheno 1 and 1 clone of both pheno 2 and 3. Pheno 3 and pheno 1 are both crossed. Pheno 3 is crossed with my Baby Yoda X Red Zkittlez. Pheno 1 is crossed with a Blue Dream male. I will run those babies at a later date.

Been away for 2 weeks working away. The first test for the autopots. Well what can I say. This grow is insane . I have 8 plants all are over 160cm. The 3 sweet seeds plants are over 240cm... It's insane. Supercropped the biggest but just chunking up. I'm out of height for lights now so I'm kinda stuffed in a good way. This is not the worse issue to have. I can't get individual pics of plants as there is no room in this jungle. The cheat code is Biotabs and Autopots. Just leave them alone and prepare to be amazed These have only ever had untreated tap water. And I'm talking Lol ndon tap water so not the best. But the biotabs just seem to make it all good No sign of salt build up and no sign of any deficiency. I will give I feed of biopk in the coming week as a top feed but that will be that until harvest. Unless something happens if course..🤪

64 days since my little girl sprouted from seeds🌱 Ninth week of growing my Red Pure Auto CBD 💚❤️💚❤️ Nutrients: Nutrients: Terra Aquatica FlashClean - T.A. FlashClean is a specially designed cleaning system that removes (dissolves) salt residues from fertilizers, but also allows new nutrient binding between plants and the system. These properties help plants to make the most of the nutrient content of fertilizers, especially in the crucial period before harvest 💦🌊💦 ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------- BioBizz Bio pH- is an organic pH regulator. An aqueous solution of citric acid, which occurs naturally in citrus fruits 🍋🍋 ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------- Terra Aquatica pH Test Kit - Very reliable, easy to use and inexpensive. The pH test kit conveniently replaces expensive pH meters. It includes a wide range from 4.0 to 8.5. 🌈 Overall: Red Pure Auto CBD 💚❤️💚❤️ - In the end, Red Pure CBD also reacted badly to the nutrients. It is true that I expected it and I was rather surprised that it was still so beautifully green and looked healthy by the color 🍃🍃 I already have the nutrients tested and a watering schedule ready for the next round. But I feel sorry for these plants, because I tested the nutrients on them. But there is no other way 😔 Anyway, despite all this, all the plants look quite decent and even judging by the harvest of the first two plants, it doesn't look bad at all 🌾🌾 I have already rinsed this plant, first with FlashClean and today with clean water with pH adjustment 🌊💦 I think I could harvest tomorrow. Training: Training is out of the question at this time, I just cut off a few leaves 💚🌞🌞 Light: Mars Hydro TS1000 The plants are responding effectively and the light is technically very well managed - I try to have 50 cm between the light and the plants, so I regularly move it up 💡💡💡 Thanks for the likes :) See you soon 😍😍

Start of week 14 and the smell is very strong she is showing autumn colours now it’s mesmerising to look at exellemt thc production going to try and push her another week at least fingers crossed it’s worth it … end of week 14 and she is about ready last day today I have her 5 litres of ice cold water to shock her and dimmed the light chopping her tomorrow morning can’t wait the smell is amazing and the buds look mesmerising another good grow thanks amnesia seeds do you have anything else you can recommend for my next run please 🙏

Hallo, willkommen im Wahnsinn. Red Bull! Dosen grow für Tiny Pot Challenge. Am 22.09. Direkt in die Erde gesetzt. Northern Lights. Eine Legende. No 5 ist die stärkste und zeitgleich Geruchsärmste. Ach ja und die! "lowrider". D

- Big Bud + Overdrive

📝 Journal de Culture : Phase de Transition (Stretch) ​Date : 09 mars 2026 Âge : J+35 (Semaine 6) Génétique : Wham Boom Auto (Anesia Seeds) ​📏 Mesures & Environnement ​Taille de la plante : 27 à 28 cm. ​Distance Lampe-Canopée : 68 cm (Intensité : 50%). ​Température : Jour : 23-24°C / Nuit : 20-21°C. ​Humidité (HR) : 55% - 60%. 💧 Nutrition & Vie du Sol (Session du jour) ​Volume d'eau : 0,5 Litres. pH : 6,3. ​Additif : 1g de Bactrex. ​Technique : Arrosage ciblé sur les bords du pot car le centre reste humide. 🛠️ Technique de Culture : LST (Low Stress Training) ​Action : Séance de palissage intensif effectuée hier soir et 3 feuilles enlevées afine de libérer les têtes inférieures. ​Réaction : Récupération immédiate, les têtes se sont déjà redressées vers la lumière. ​Observations : Le tronc principal et les branches secondaires sont devenus particulièrement épais et rigides, rendant les manipulations plus délicates. 🔍 Analyse ​Explosion du Stretch : La plante a pris près de 8 cm en une semaine. On voit sur les photos que les entrenœuds commencent à s'espacer, signe caractéristique du début de la pré-floraison. ​Densité du Feuillage : La couleur est d'un vert forêt profonde et uniforme, indiquant que la plante est parfaitement gorgée de nutriments (merci aux BioTabs et à l'Orgatrex). ​Apparition des Pistils : En observant bien les têtes sur les photos de près, on commence à voir les premiers pistils blancs (stigmates) sortir au centre des nouveaux départs de feuilles. La Pré-floraison va démarrer ! ​Maîtrise de la canopée : Malgré la rigidité du tronc, le LST a permis de maintenir une canopée très large. La lumière atteint maintenant les sites de fleurs inférieurs qui étaient auparavant cachés. 11/03 donne 1 litres d'eau + 5ml Orgatrex PH 6,3 😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😫 ACCIDENT J'AI CASSER UNE BRANCHE. J'AI LA RAGE EN FAISANT UN LST TEMPIS UNE BELLE TÊTE EN MOINS J'ESPÈRE QU'ELLE SERA PAS TROP TRAUMATISER . C'EST UNE PLANTE PAS FACILE POUR LE LST. SES BRANCHE SONT TELLEMENT EPAISSES QU'ELLE CASSE PRESQUE SI ON ETIRE DE TROP .C'EST PAS UNE PLANTE QUE JE CONSEILLERAIS AU DÉBUTANT. DÉJÀ CONFIRMÉ AVEC DE L'EXPÉRIENCE..

2 week flowering

Topped the side branches today. So far so good!

Hallo zusammen, Wir befinden uns inzwischen in Woche 6 der Blütephase. Es ist sichtlich festzustellen, dass sie identisch wie die erste Purple Coockie Kush, während der Blütephase vereinzelt Versorgungsprobleme aufzeigt. Es liegt zumindest durch den eigen Versuch mit identischen Pflanzengut sehr nah, dass es wirklich weiter vererbt wurde. Dahingehend ein toller eigenversuch mit eher negativen Ausgang aber zugleich, wertvollen Erfahrungen für uns. Aus diesem Grund, sehen wir davon ab, die P.C.K die sich z.Zt im Re veg befindet, weiter zu führen. Am Wochenende werden wir uns noch mal die Blätter die Kraft nehmen, kleinstblüten und wahrscheinlich den einen Unterversorgten Trieb entfernen. Ansonsten schwellen die Blüten die versorgt werden schön an und Baldchin bauen breitgefächert aufeinander auf. So bis nächste Woche liebe Gartenfreunde und vielen Dank für das vorbeischauen! VG ✌️ 😎

| 📅 Week 9 | Days 57 - 63 | 💡 750w 📏25' | | ☔ 36%-47% | | 🌡️️🌞 74 - 75 | | 🌡️️🌑 73 - 74 | 01/04: I Did a complete reservoir swap on all the plants with an increased nutrient schedule. I should have done this sooner, but I feared the N toxicity. The PH on all the plants has been adjusted to 5.8 as usual. Smells are kicking in really nicely. Great White Mycorrhizae has been added in the reservoirs in place of the Hydroguard. 01/05: Topped off the focus plant only and PHed all the plants to 5.8. The temperatures and humidity has been nearly perfect for my environment. The buds are starting to swell nicely and the trichomes are filling up all over and starting to turn cloudy in some places. 01/06: Reservoirs on all of the plants were topped and and their PH's adjusted to 5.8. No changes have been made for humidity and temperatures. I removed some unhealthy leaves and adjusted plant positions just slightly. Fox tailing has begun to get severe on the focus plant unfortunately with the other two plants acting normal and temperatures around 77 its looking unavoidable and genetic. 01/07: I cleaned out the bottom of tent today from the build up of debris for a clean tent! The reservoirs were topped off and PHed to 6 to combat a dropping PH. If the PH's drop again we will look towards a reservoir swap tomorrow to avoid problems and get a fresh mix. 01/08: Thankfully the PH's have stabilized and aren't dropping drastically so I will not reservoir swap right now and will do it as schedules in a few days. I topped off all of the reservoirs back to normal and PHed them to 5.8. The smell has increased drastically over the week and its amazing right now. 01/09: Applied a small amount of foliar spray to give addition Calmag and keep humidity up today. I adjusted the PHs of all the plants to 5.8 after topping them off with tap water. I also adjusted the SCROG a slight bit and removed some old foliage. The RH levels are still in the acceptable rage for my setup so I will just refill the open containers and not add/remove any of them. 01/10: All of the reservoirs needed topped off and had their PHs adjusted to 5.8. I moved the air ducts around for better airflow. Temperatures and humidity have remained in the good zone for my environment and I look to keep it stable. I moved fans around in the tent to increase canopy airflow. _______________________________________________________________________ This week showed very good bud and trichome development. The addition of Great White Mycorrhizae has immediately increased bud development significantly. The timelapse plant unfortunately has genetic foxtailing on the majority of its buds decreasing overall bud structure vastly. The non-timelapse plants show little to no signs of foxtailing and have nice and chunky bud structures. These plants are maturing EXTREMELY fast over the last week and a half and its looking like harvest time will be much sooner than I anticipated given the lengthy veg time we had. Week 9 overall was pretty rough in terms of growth for our focus plant because the fox-tailing however there is only so much we can do and this week was fantastic for the other two plants so that's always nice! Feel free to leave comments/questions below or give me any feedback to improve my diaries. If you like this Diary follow along and check out my others as well 😎

What up Grow Fam. Weekly update on these beauties. They've stopped the stretching part and now started focusing on flower sites. Seeing the flowers swell almost daily is wild to watch. I started to drop the night temps down to low 60's and around 70 with the lights on. All in all Happy Growing.

It's still growing nicely and except for the thrips that I can't eradicate no matter how many times I spray the whole plant with neem oil, everything is going well. If anyone knows an efficient way to deal with thrips, feel free to share 🙏

Esa familia, actualizamos las northern light xL, hay una de las 3 que destaca del resto por tamaño y flores, pintan muy bien, se ve buen color y bastante vigorosas, tutelamos 1. Bajamos humedad y temperatura, a estas alturas estamos pensando en el siguiente proyecto con varias geneticas de zambezaseeds.

The temperatures, humidity, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil. Using 7.6 pH well water creates challenges in keeping iron, nitrogen, and phosphorus available to the plants. This soil is recycled and had a starting pH of 7.3-7.5. I added Diamond Brand Ferrous Sulfate at the above listed rate of 2.5 ml/gallon of soil. I distributed these granules evenly across the top of the soil. Adding this amendment acidifies the soil and provides a readily available and lasting iron supplement during veg. After adding the ferrous sulfate some small particles were splashed onto the leaves by the rain. These particles burnt the leaves and are the dark spots you see in the photos. Those dark spots turned into tears in the leaves as the high winds ripped through them. The girls are showing a little excessive nutrient stress. I believe from the phosphorus in the Coop Poop. I've come to believe it runs higher than the advertised 4%. The higher soil pH exasperates this. As the ferrous sulfate works and these girls grow larger these issues will be solved. Day 1 we had cooler temps, overcast skies, and showers during the morning and night. These continued early morning day 2. Followed by sunshine after noon on day 2. Early morning Day 3 at 2-3 a.m. we had thunderstorms that produced strong winds and very heavy rain for almost two hours. Day 4, despite the 5% rain forecast, we had another thunderstorm producing heavy rain and strong wind followed by rain that evening. Day 5 the plants had a respite. We had lots of sunshine and a lite breeze to dry the soaked soil out. Day 6 we had more sunshine and breezy weather. Day 7 more sunshine and excellent cannabis weather, not too hot and not too cold. I didn't water these this week as the rain was more than enough. These girls are real tuff. The weather during their germination and first two weeks after planting was brutal. The high winds and heavy rain blasted the leaves and soaked the pots. These girls bent but didn't break. They look a little beat up from the weather, pH issues, and nutrients stress. This isn't ideal but in two weeks it will be a faded memory. Fastbuds can handle harsh outdoor conditions, minor user error, and still produce lots of beautiful buds. Follow and see for yourself.

The stretch has started. Very manageable since they started flower on the shorter side. Some adjustment to feeding and a good leaf striping mid week. Pheno number 1 has broad leaves and a very tight node spacing compared to the other four. Number 3 has shown to be very vigorous in growth and cloning. Number 2 is the runt and slow but stinks. The others are very similar. The girls got fed after the leaf strip the next day they looked really happy.