10/31 Trimmed some leaves that had been scorched from water laying on them under the HPS. They were bone dry so I watered about 100ozs each which is about double what I have been giving them. I'll start feeding next watering. 11/3 Watered and fed with Tiger Bloom and Big Bloom at a quarter strength. 11/4 Received a pH meter and checked my well water. I'm at 7.5 so I ordered pH down.

Day 1 of week 6: 26th Sept Slow start to this week with an update as my phone is broken. Girls looking good but no pics to show.. Day 2 of week 6: 27th Sept Nutes in as usual! Girls looking good and I think the CalMag is working a treat! 🤞🏼 Day 3 of week 6: 28th Sept Just added some pics and a lil vid today to kick this week off after a slow start! Day 5 of week 6: 30th Sept Nutes in again today and some more defoliation due to yellow leaves not getting enough light.. I was a little worried I hadn’t sorted the CalMag deficiency out properly but the girls are looking much happier now I’ve got rid of those yellow leaves and LST’d them a bit more. 😍 Day 6 of week 6, 1st October: Girls looking much happier since yesterday’s removal of yellow leaves and more LST!! They’ve bounced back so nicely!! Happy days 😊❤️ Day 7 of week 6: 2nd October Girls looking good, nutes in for the last time before switching to flower.. Switching to flower 🌹 during week 7 all being well!! Can’t wait to see some cola action!! ❤️, ✌️ and hair grease!

the girls have really taken off, things are going well, just trying to deal with my humidity. I do not have a dehumidifier, and the outside % is +60%....so it hard to bring it down too much. I think I may need to purchase on in the near future. Also would like to get C02 going but realize I'll need a dehumidifier first, so I went cheap and designed a C02 generator from my wine making supplies. It's producing bubbles, as you can see in the video, but not too sure how much its contributing, especially since I have the fan on for controlling the humidity. but it was fun to build

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

This girls an absolute beast for her age, she's only 4 weeks old, going into 5th week, she's filled up my space nicely, ive defol'd and lst'd a little, nothing to heavy, ive also lollipoped her. I'm switching to half bloom and half veg nutrients from now until next fortnight, then straight bloom. Thanks for taking the time to read my diary. Feel free to check out my other diaries, and please leave a like, maybe a follow. Stay high stay fly. #420everyday

11/15/22 Day 28- at the beginning of week 3 had the soil ph raise but got it under control so start of week 4 she is really growing nice trying to keep branches trained out to keep airflow in middle probably gonna switch to flower after end of this week

Today marks the start of Week 6, Day 2 for the grow, and I’ve got a few updates. The PPMS aren’t quite where I want them after the last couple of feeds, so I’ll be continuing with higher feeds to bring those levels back up. It’s a bit of a balancing act, but I’m staying on top of it. I also made the decision to flip the light schedule from 16/8 to 12/12 today to initiate the flowering phase. I’m excited to see the plants start stretching and showing their full potential. It’s a big step, and I’m feeling good about the direction things are heading. Happy growing! 🌱💡🌿

. YEAR 5 - 2nd quarter ----------------------- The 5th season continues with 3 Gorilla Punch from FB and 3 Original XXL from GB in the same tent. A disappointment: with 6 plants, they yield 179 g, less than the previous 5. But in only 10 weeks. Green Brand did better than Fastbuds for a first try.

This week the Purple Lemonade is entering the crucial late bloom stage. The buds are already showing great color expression and are starting to put on noticeable weight. Trichomes are developing steadily, giving the flowers a frosty appearance, while the fruity, citrus aroma is becoming more pronounced. At this point I’m discontinuing Big Bud and switching to Overdrive for the next two weeks. Big Bud has already done its job during mid-flower by promoting volume and setting the bud structure. Overdrive is more suitable now, as it pushes the plant to increase resin, terpene concentration, and final density, ensuring the Purple Lemonade reaches its full potential before the flush.

Almost forgot to refill the humidifier, big mistake if left it without humidity for a long time.. It’s how my project plant started having problems.. Week 2 completed, now going into week three. Auto Gelatos were transplanted into 1 gl fabric pots.. I added some great white to the roots before transfer..

Today is day 62. Start of the 4th week of flowering. 7 liters watering.

Had to raise the lights a bit as they were getting blasted

Gorilla Glue #1 - Harvest Comment - I Am Very Satisfied With What I Got, I got 3 ounce 7 grams - I Uses Advance Nutrients PH perfect In veg then I switch to the iguana juice organic juice for the flowering stage. I notice a much more slower growth when I switch to organic nutrients.00

Servus zusammen 🏽 Sorry fürs späte Update Sie macht sich wunderbar Hat wohl ihre Höhe bei 90 cm erreicht Die Blüten pushen sich schön langsam auf und bilden den ersten Frost an den umliegenden Blättern Habe nun doch ein wenig entlaubt, so dass an jeder Stelle der Pflanze schön Durchzug herrscht Der Sommer scheint nun entgültig angekommen

Hello again, GrowDiaries family! 😎 We’ve officially entered Week 10 (4th week of flowering) and the Critical is truly showing her full potential. This week has been all about environmental management and keeping the plant’s metabolism at its peak despite the winter chill. 📏 Precision Measurements & Training -Height: Steady at 37 cm. Vertical growth has stopped as she focuses all her energy on flower production. -Canopy Management: The LST has done a great job. The canopy is perfectly flat, ensuring that every "pompom" gets the same light intensity. -Visual Check: I’ve taken the plant out of the tent for some photos under white light to show the real progress of the trichomes without the LED distortion. 🌡️ Environment & Climate Challenges -Temperature: We’ve faced some tricky nights at 12°C, reaching 27°C during the day. -The Strategy: To prevent the plant from stalling due to the cold nights, I’ve started watering with lukewarm water. This keeps the root zone active and ensures nutrients are still being absorbed effectively. -Humidity (RH): Stable at 40-45%, ideal for keeping the developing buds safe and dry. 💧 Watering & Organic Pest Control -Nutrient Strategy: Still going strong with the full Biobizz schedule (Bio-Grow 1ml, Bio-Bloom 2ml, and Top-Max 1ml) in 1L of water. She is responding beautifully with no signs of overfeeding. -The Cinnamon Trick: 🛡️ I noticed some fungus gnats last week, so I applied a generous layer of ground cinnamon on the soil surface. It’s an old-school, 100% organic remedy that acts as a natural fungicide. Result: The gnats are completely gone! 🌿 Flower & Resin Evolution -The sugar has arrived! ❄️ Resin is now heavily coating the sugar leaves and the buds are thickening up fast. The white pistils are abundant and healthy. The aroma is becoming much more complex and penetrating! Thanks for the comments and for following this grow! Happy growing to all.😉👍

Scrooge has grown bushy since the start of flowering. So, I gave it a trim and some care. Now, let's wait for it to bounce back, and I probably won't mess with it much more. 🌿🛠️