58 days in the books. Scheduled for knee surgery on the 10th so harvest on this girl may be coming sooner than I had hoped. My next diary will be 1 Big Bud and 1 Agent orange who have both been vegging the last 3+months. Gave them a lollipop hair cut 1 week ago. Both are recovering nicely. Anywho, happy gardening 🌱🙏🤘🖖✌️ ¤ With the help of my amazing lady friend the grow goes on. She will be aiding me in the 3 waterings (flush) to get this girl to the 10 week mark! Resin and trichomes are progressing from clear milky to milky amber.

Hola a todos! Esta semana aparecieron las preflores por eso indico que comienza la floracion. He regado con shanty de namaste nutrientes 3ml x litro de agua, no controle ph ni ec.

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Hello and welcome to week 7 for Enigma. Last week is now up to date. She was poisoned a few days ago and I'm trying to save her. Took off dead leaves today and fertigated with normal strength. Not super strength. Day 46: I've stabilised her but she's in rough shape. Day 48: Long video lots of detail. Day 49: A hard hard week. Almost killed her. Unsure where she goes from here but at least she doesnt take up any space!

Day 2. All the girls are coming along nicely one has a little heat damage to the main cola so redirected the airflow. almost all fan leaves are naturally falling off Cool little slide show of there life cycle. https://lightmv.com/v/mqatait] Link to Slide Show Day 4. So so so close to harvest I tried to check the trichomes but the scope got covered in THC 😂 and the iPhone 12 Camera sucks so can't get a picture of them

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

2/11: Now officially been 3 weeks since plant. Overall pretty happy with how things are going. I realized I had been slightly overwatering the plants a week ago, so I left them to dry a bit for 5 or so days, and watered them lightly yesterday morning. Will probably water them tomorrow, and this time I'm thinking of adding in a very light dose of nutrients for the first time. Overall, plants look fairly healthy. We have 2, maybe 3 phenotypes, one being super bushy and dense, the other less so but still fairly compact. The plants had been a bit droopy the last week, which is why I waited to water for a bit, but it seems they are perking back up slowly. The bushier phenotype also seems to droop a bit more. One of the plants is significantly smaller than the others, while still looking fairly healthy. Its somewhat on track in terms of number of fan leaves, it just doesn't have the vertical and horizontal growth of the others. My roommates said they kinda fucked up the roots when transplanting, so i'm hoping its just a bit stunted and will reel the others back in soon. Oh, and when I walked in the tent a few days ago in the morning, the temp was at 102f. I have no idea how it got to that, but it musn't have been for long because the plants seem fine other than maybe 4 tiny bleached spots on 2 of the plants. I'm hoping the plants get a bit leggier, as the new nodes under the bigger fan leaves are really struggling to get any light. I don't think I will do anything for now besides a very light dose of nutrients next feed, but might get into some lst, topping, and defoliage in the next week. Need to do some research to decide if we try mainlining, scrog, or other techniques. Light settings still the same also, might raise them a few inches in the next week. 2/15: Topped all the plants. Didn't have time to get lst material but will start that hopefully tomorrow or day after. Not sure if we should defoliate some of the upper fan leaves that are fully covering the new nodes coming in from under. Plants looked fairly droopy all day, I'm hoping its from underwatering, and i'm fairly confident it is. Watered them tonight, this time 0.75 gallons each, so almost double the amount of last time. Will probably stick to this amount for the next week or two. Still stuck to the same nutrient ratio: 5 tsp big bloom and 2.5 tsp grow big per 2 gallons (our watering bucket is 2 gallon). I think next feed will probably be straight water to flush the soil a bit, but not completely sure yet. Was also pretty confused as to why some of the pots had significantly more runoff than others. Hoping to continue to see growth, and less droop. The straggler is also finally starting to speed up a bit. Most plants are around 8-9 in tall besides the straggler, about half as tall. 2/17: Plants look very healthy overall. A lot less droopy, and definitely got some decent size now. Noticed one plant has some sort of bleaching that I'm fairly certain is cal mag deficiency. Makes sense since we haven't introduced any cal mag at all, so I will go buy some today. Gonna water tomorrow as the pots are already pretty much dry. Trying to add a video with detailed view of all the plants from different angles but doesn't seem like uploading is working

More pics and videos coming soon

Week8: today i defoliated for the last time now i let her go. She gets 1000ppm flower nutrients Ph 6.2 The strech is coming haha i have seen huge phenos of these

Sieht gut aus

03/15 - (M) - Mom is doing great - pre-flowered without any issues and now is in week 1 flower - still running the 8 line drip emitters with offsetting feeds - did some defoliation underneath the canopy - dropped the light down to 75% 03/15 (C) - Clones are rocking amazingly - side shoots are coming in nicely - temps are high and humidity as well - adding Raw npk silica to the feed mix this week to assist with cell wall structure. 03/18 (C) - They are on recovery mode at the moment, got a little reckless with their PH/PPM/EC😑😑😑 - Gave them a hard flush and will only feed clean water for the next week or so - they are bouncing back😎😎😎😎😎

bla bla bla

Hello. I've finished, cured and put away the Sleepy Joe. It didn't have the strength I was hoping for but it is still nice to smoke. It gets you couch locked and sleepy so before bed stuff. Plant #1 Wet Plant - 875g Dry Buds - 99g Plant #2 Wet plant - 1085g Dry Buds - 114g Plant #3 Wet Plant - 871g Dry Buds - 92g Plant #4 Wet Plant - 807g Dry Buds - 116g Plant #5 Wet plant - 967g Dry Buds - 99g Plant #3 was the strongest and I'm going to reveg it. Thanks for tuning in. Chuck.

Week 6 of flowering, and things are heating up—literally with the scent! 🌬️💨 Both plants have significantly increased their aroma, and every time I open the grow box, I’m greeted with a strong and delightful smell that fills the space. The non-LST plant is much further along in its development. Its buds have progressed beautifully in color, and I’ve already noticed the first amber trichomes appearing. 🍂✨ This, along with its overall appearance, is signaling that it’s nearing maturity. Because of this, I’ve started flushing the plant with clear water to prepare it for harvest. Speaking of the LST plant, it’s about a week behind. 🌱 While it’s not as far along, it’s still thriving with strong trichome production and a stunning Lemon Haze aroma that’s sharper every day. 🍋💚 Both plants are doing great, and the differences in their timelines make this grow even more interesting. I’m excited to see how the LST variant catches up in the coming weeks! 😊🌟

Giorno 56 Ehi tu 👉 guarda questa Grape Rolex V2 di Roc Bud Inc che spettacolo. È una femmina a tutti gli effetti. Da tre anni coltivo spesso anche autofiorenti e non mi ero mai imbattuto in una pianta così. Se puoi spendi qualche euro in questa banca semi (non sto pubblicizzando nessuno ma quando qualcuno fa un lavoro eccellente va sottolineato)!!! Le 5 Crystal Candy mostrano qualche problema da assorbimento di nutrienti (sempre rotta la penna ph) e da ricircolo d'aria (sto lavorando senza immissione di aria dall'esterno) ma stiamo arrivando alla fine le cime sono dure e puzzano tutte come il giro precedente. Ci vediamo settimana prossima Buona settimana coltivatori 😊🤜🌱

10 days into flower with the first taste of bloom! Happy with how things are going.. don’t know why my videos won’t play

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2309 Well growmies we are at 21 days in and everything is going great 👌 👉 So the low stress training👈 has been going great she's gonna be a big girl, shes in the Pre-flower Stretch 👌 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Added some potassium sulfate and they seemed to bounce back but now they want calcium and I’m pretty sure the potassium I put in is antagonistic to calcium. I might harvest early to prevent any trichome degradation due to photosynthesis being halted, trichomes are looking milky too.