CHERRY 🍒 COLA by FASTBUDS WEEK #2 OVERALL June 8th-15th WEEK #1 Veg This week she was transplanted to 5 gallon cloth pot and moved outside for remainder of her grow. She's looking good. Stay Growing!! FASTBUDS CHERRY 🍒 COLA

Day 67: My leaves are getting very crispy so i increased the watering of the garden today and hopefully that fixes the problem. Also the girls are still healing from not having cal mag for 2 weeks. Other than that they are growing well and as always if you have any tips or tricks please feel free to share. Thank you for looking and happy growing. 😀

They are all showing preflower and chugging along nicely.

I did a big defoliation and lollipop on day 14

✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. 🌱✨ She looks better.

Song of the week : Cypress Hill - Insane In The Brain ------- Day 32 - The girls are good , I put them out on day 29 and after a night out they get back into the tent. In less than 24h out the Gp#1 made a big stretch so I need to check her height , the Gp#2 is starting to get bushy. The 2 girls are experimenting a nitrogen excess due to the last and 1st feeding last week : you can see it on the dark green and almost blue colour of the leaves so they will only get tap water until flowering. ------- Day 33 - A little training have been done on the Gp#1 : just few stems pinching 👍

@twenty20mendocino A-team R&D Update ~ Let’s Go day 70 for these girls an we are doing great! We getting big a bushy with thick solid limbs. Gonna have some nice big structure to build some nice big beautiful budz y’all ! We will let them build for few more weeks then we will throw them into flower, but let’s take it one day at a time ! And The Sangria is just looking so damn beautiful a smelling so damn stanky 😍! Only a couple more days of flush for her a she’ll be ready for the dark , so you don’t want to Miss next week’s update! Hope you all enjoy an have an amazing productive day as well as a great safe weekend! Peace love an positive vibes to all y’all Cheers blaze on 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨

The plant is doing great! These days the temperatures are up to 33 and the plant is liking it a lot! I have posted a video to show the developement of buds, will keep on recording once a week Can't wait to see how big the nugs will be!

KICKASS AUTO by KANNABIA Week#7 May 14th-21st Week #2 Flower This week she stretched about 2 inches she's right at 19 inches she also continues to grow side branches she really a nice looking bushy plant. Dark green color trichomes are starting to form on her buds and leaves and she's starting to fill in you can see the white hairs and start off little buds on her. She is doing great outside!! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com Kickass Auto

Целый год растил не замеряя влажность на Веге) пришлось докупить увлажнитель и вроде дело пошло веселее.

Cheeese is week 2 and WIFIs week 4

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

here we pass 38 days of flower. I added a Cal-Mag on the feeding menu. it is started to show signs of Cal-Mag def., or this is a root-bound. Buds are nice and sticky

a planta vem sendo regada com água de torneira desde a germinação vem se desenvolvendo muito bem nas ultimas semanas, na proxima semana a planta irá mudar de ciclo para floração veremos...💫💨💨💨

these came down at 10 weeks and 4 days 509 wet after a wet trim expecting close to 300 finally let's see 🚀 all in all pretty stoked to try that chem ! trying on paper bags then it's jars, check back in later 😱 😱 😱 😱

Bud sights are building! Starting to get real existed about the next few weeks!! Had some drought issues around oct 21 from my lack of watering, shocked how much they drink! Starting to fill in a lot, will do a little trimming & tucking next week & do it's first feeding.

Moin, Eine entspannte Woche ging vorbei und damit die 6. Blütewoche. Bis auf einen Tankwechsel bzw eigentlich nur dem Auffüllen vom Tank & 1x gießen per Hand mit Powerzyme und Alfa Boost wurde hier nichts gemacht, sehr entspannt. Zu den Pflanzen kann ich sagen, dass nach der Entlaubung letzte Woche nicht viel zu sehen ist beide Pflanzen haben mächtig an Blattmasse zu gelegt wodurch ich jetzt etwas vor dem Dilemma stehen eigentlich noch mehr entlauben zu müssen und gleichzeitig die Pflanzen nicht weiter zu stressen, auf Nanas habe ich wirklich kein Bock 😅 Hatte mich bisher die rechte Pflanze von ihrem Terpenprofil etwas enttäuscht (hatte wirklich wenig geruch), hat sich das mittlerweile komplett geändert und auch dieser Pheno geht ins süßliche. Dabei kann ich aber kein Gas riechen und es bleibt eher auf den süßen und metholigen Seite wodurch ein sehr erfrischendes Aroma entsteht. Bei rechten Pheno ist klar zu erkennen, dass dieser deutlich weiter ist und neben mehr Blütenmasse auch mehr Trichome und auch mehr Terpene produziert, der Pheno performt bisher sehr stark! Vom Geruch ist es weiterhin sehr süß, fast wie ein Kuchen mit einer ordentlichen Portion an Gas, aber ohne dabei stechend zu werden. Ach und nen neuer Aktivkohlefilter musste her, der alte hat es nicht mehr gepackt den Geruch im Zaun zu halten😂

I flowered during a heatwave so lights were dimmed a half week.. other then that everything was good. Humidity was between 45-60% all way trough flower. I really love this pheno smells very blueberry