still recovering from the nitrogen def will flip into flower next week still feeding ph 6.5 and 800-900ppm

Waited for the roots to develop more in the little pot before transplanting to the air pot. Started low stress training on the others. They started a little slow at first but going now.

This week these ladies have blown up as you can tell one is a bit bigger then the other and one is shorter as her sister is exploding lol. Loving these 8 gallon self wicking pots from @grotechgarden Thanks so much for these amazing genetics 420 fast buds!

The bright candy-like aroma is a treat for the senses, promising a flavorful harvest. Impressively, the abundance of trichomes at this stage is already a source of joy, hinting at the potency and resinous nature of the forthcoming buds. Excitement builds as the plant progresses, showcasing early signs of a rewarding harvest.

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

GSC Extreme autoflower from ILGM has grown really well. Looking really dense, and smelling great. Full of trichromes. She was a late bloomer, but made up for it when she did. Looks like a heavy yield of some dank buds. The Viparspectra P4000 worked excellent. Thank you ILGM, and Viparspectra. I have a harvest video on my YouTube channel, link on my profile page. 🤜🤛🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the likes, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. I greatly appreciate all the support. 🌱🌱 🌱https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 56 Took some glamor pics with black background - not really for vanity (although there's a little) but for contrast. I see more of the lockout issue better in the pics this way. - on that note, the ph seems to be working as it's been two days since defoliation and knitting needle ph correction, and the progression is way slower than it was on the last leaves at 3rd day of identifying. So with that, room VPD of 1.07kpa seems stable enough with temps about 76F/65%RH/33%ILV I released the binds today to let her grow without them until they crowd each other too much and I need to restrain - so in a couple of days at max. Day 62 Transfer day. Although at first I didnt think I would be able to until Saturday, I got pots and plant saucers today, so I ended up going ahead and doing it. Started by calibrating/testing both meters. Double checked the soil mix from yesterday as the last time I used wood ash the ph rose the day after... however this time it was fully mixed to I wanted to know if there would be a higher ph - it was the same as yesterady - 5 reading avg of about 6.35 - the slurry of 1:1 soil and 7.7 ph water was tested at 6.3 also. Made about .75 gallon of 75/25 veg/bloom juice water at 500ppm feed water. Tried to ph read the soil in the pot and seen it go from 6.6 down to 6.35 (took video) in the dry soil, so I decided to use the 6.35 new soil reading and ph balanced the feed to that. Used the needles since it was 7 days since the last feed and I am using such a small amount. Poured over needles in 8 places and pulled each out to let water down. the vacuum pulls the water down when I lift the needles. Then I mixed 5tsp of Dynomyco to the 5 gallons of new soil and mixed really good. I placed a layer of perlite on the bottom of the 10 gallon pot and then layered in some soil. Then with the help of my wife we pulled the plant out of the pot and placed it in the 10 gallon. I place back in the tent and added about a quart of plain de-chlorinated water evenly over the new and older soil to help bind them. I reduced lights by 100ppfd to have about 505 and 500 at center colas and 430 lowest on outer ring with most at 450 and 470 highest. Soil to light is 35 inches and the plant is about 14 inches so about 21 inches from leaves to lights. I left the ring off today and will rebind as needed tomorrow after she rests. Today the leaves look wilted and limp. Also reduced humidity to 60% so 58 to 65% should be the range and the temps are 73F with the lights lower. PPFD was higher with the new growth - unbound and tucked in for better cola/light position, it reads 570 to 580 on outer colas and 590 at both center branches Day 57 Getting 1 more day out of free range growth before I tie her back against a ring. So in that time I decided to take a few vanity pics. Overall the ph block seems to have slowed or stopped and she's back to growing again. Will be thinking about flip at the end of this week or so. VPD same stats 76F/65%RH/33%ILV - ppfd right at max so I'll likely tie her off tomorrow. 605 600 in center and 580 to 590 at the outer ring. Day 58 VPD stats mostly steady again today - 76F/65%RH/33%ILV - ppfd was checked after LST, measured 600 at each center cola and the outer ring measured between 550 and 590 most at 580 So as I said, I did LST today to bind her more out while the 4 center 4 colas fill the middle. I had to bind to the pot base instead of the ring as the colas are still a little short to reach for binds at the ring just yet. There's a lot of space to fill and a few (about half) of the out colas are sideways for now. Had a break at the center cola when I tried to pull it back for bind. I knew to hold the branch at the node but forgot to do it here and heard a "snap" ... taped the crack and moved on - will monitor obviously Day 59 Did more light LST to ensure the branches are growing where I want. PPFD was mostly the same as yesterday only now there are more colas around 560 than 580 on the outer ring with the center colas at 610 and 590 (front cola was tied down to spread more away from the ring and fill center better. vpd same as past week or so 76F/65%RH/33%ILV Last feed was on day 54 and the soil still seems damp so I will check again tomorrow for the next day. (Day 61) The broken branch doesnt seem to have affected either side of the split as both sides seem to have grown a little with little to no wilt or drooping leaves. Im hoping it heals okay and doesnt delay flip to recover more; still monitoring. Day 60 Did some light LST today by releasing the lower binds to the pot and attached as couple to the outer ring now. So far I only have to bind a few as most are already holding where i want them to. Took the tape off the split and seen I didnt seel the gap closed when I taped it so now Im considering a drop of super glue to bind the branch back in hopes it grows onto the other side again. If not at least it would be more secure than it is now. And since it's a main split for 4 colas, I dont want too restrict it by binding at the split and potentially cutting off the nutrient pathways. ppfd after LST was 610 and 600 after more LST and the outer ring is still ranging 550 to 580 with more at 560 now. VPD same as I havent messing with any of the variables. 76F/65%RH/33%ILV Soil is a bit dry and it's been 5 days since the last feed flush, so I have about 3 gallons of tap burning of chlorine now for a feed tomorrow morning. Might still update again later if I find superglue... found some superglue - tried to take pictures but I cant hold, squeeze the applicator, and film with just two hands. So the idea gets through, I did both sides. On a side note I discovered a root popping out of the soil from the top. Covered it up but wasn't sure if I should be concerned. Day 61 VPD same as it's been for most of the last week - 74F/65%RH/33%ILV PPFD was recorded after I turn the plant a quarter turn for the smaller colas struggling to get over he ring's edge to have more light. Most colas at 580 with a couple at 600 and a couple more at 550 - center colas are hitting 615 and 620, but I have plancs to reduce in the next couple of days now On that note, the root growing out of the top tells me that she's hungry and needs more root space, even if that means growing through the top of the soil. So I plan to transplant to a 10 gallon and flip after the recovery. After reviewing more of NugBucket's journal I realized this is why he moves them when growing 16 colas. New pots should be here Friday so I should be able do it on Saturday. So I prepped soil (using more Happy frog with mycorrhizal fungi already growing in it for a few weeks) with de-chlorinated tap water Started by ph testing the soil and the water (4 readings on soil at 5.03 avg) - added about 1/2 cup total of wood ash to bring up the ph , mixed and tested again - added water at (about 7.7 ph) and tested again... last 5 readings in soil was 6.24,6.3,6.35,6.37,6.38 avg of 6.328 - covered and let rest until needed. Since I plan to transplant in a few days I felt it would be best to 'lightly' feed tomorrow, again on transplant day, and again 2 to 3 days later. Since my wife was taking pics at this time, I could only find this one to show the roots growing into the perlite then we planted it in the bigger pot. -------- (Day 62 root base picture from above) I have a hypothesis that says these are so short because I intentionally tried not to move the plant without the base stand to keep it from grinding these up and allowed them to grow in the last 2 weeks. This is that test picture/results. I like the idea of better/more drainage, but thinking I am doing more harm each time I hear those gravel pieces crunch as it cuts those and forces the plant to look somewhere else for root space. Notice how the small root lines have no finer pieces or laterals grow out from these - I believe that is because they are so new in growth and that the perlite chewed up the smaller laterals even with little to no movement over the last two weeks I would like to see a root ball experiment that exposed the roots throughout the grow but for now I can see these roots do grow into the base perlite and need to be handled carefully if you want them to grow more freely or with a standard pot size. As you can see Im not root bound but my plant thinks it is and is growing roots out the top.

I finally figured out the issue with this one. She absolutely hates the hot weather. The heat causes her to switch to veg, which isn’t awful. She switched back and forth twice now and has stalled in whatever this is. Pros and cons! Pros, she’s added nodes and will now pack up a lot more weight. It’s looking like it’s going to be a monster yeild! Cons, she added 3 weeks into the grow I will not have where I live. Frost will be here every night in about 4-5 weeks. I lined up a spot with an hps light to finish up. It’ll be a scary drive, but im going to make this happen. No way im abandoning hope. Seedsman has proved to me that they have very good genetics. Every plant I’ve grown from them is impressive. Would recommend if you’re on the fence.

After 2 weeks I chose my favorite plant of the three and prepared her for the Autopot. Now she needs to root this pot for another 2 weeks before we can turn on the Aqua Valve and the tank. DLI 30

Not tht best yielder but has quality frosty dense buds , smells sweet earthy kushy

Englisch version below Tag 62 Grow Tag 8 Blüte: Anfang der zweiten Blütewoche und der Streach lässt langsam nach. Beim gestriegen Gießen des Compost-Teas habe ich vergessen, den PH-Wert der Flüssigkeit anzupassen - Aufgefallen ist mir das erst nachdem der halbe Topf schon drin war. Heute zeigen sie jedoch keine Reaktion auf eventuelle Missstände des PH-Werts im Substrat. Am Ende dieser Woche ist eine letzte aber Gründliche Entlaubung geplant. Dannach läuft der Grow fast im Autopilotmodus ins Ziel. Die Lampe ist nun auf 100% bei ca. 900 ppfd. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 62 – Grow Day 8 – Flowering Phase: At the beginning of the second flowering week, the stretch phase is gradually slowing down. During yesterday’s watering with the compost tea, I forgot to adjust the pH value of the liquid. I only noticed this after about half of the pot had already been watered. However, today the plants show no visible reaction to any potential pH imbalance in the substrate. At the end of this week, one final but thorough defoliation is planned. After that, the grow should run almost on autopilot toward the finish.

Schönes Wetter, warme Temperaturen und noch nicht so kalte Nächte... kein schimmel ,Blüten wachsen und haben gut trichome gebildet. Habe bei der critical supercropping betrieben, um zu vergleichen, sie hat sich erholt und die buds haben sich an den geknickten Zweigen ausgerichtet. Es läuft nach wie vor ziemlich gut. Bis nächste Woche ✌️

Well that wraps up the seed preservation run! It was a great learning experience as there were several major hurdles to get over the finish line, but nothing worthwhile comes easy. The seeds are available in my Etsy shop as long as I have stock. Thanks for the support from all of you! Acapulco Gold Landrace Seeds: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1106636229/acapulco-gold-regular-cannabis-seeds8?ref=shop_home_active_1&pro=1&frs=1

The Oasis Project | Week 11: Veg Strain: Durban Poison Quartet (DP1, DP4, DP5, and DP6) Container: 25-Gallon Fabric Bags (Elevated on wheeled dollies) Method: Organic Soil / DIY Automated Halo Irrigation Overview & Environment We have officially crossed into Week 11 of vegetative growth, and the backyard deck is officially looking like a botanical engineering lab. The High Plains weather is starting to test the environment, but the quartet is locked in, vibrant green, and praying hard to the Colorado sun. Key Milestones This Week 1. The Automated Manifold is Live 🛠️ The biggest victory of the week was getting the DIY irrigation manifold completely hooked up, pressure-balanced, and dialed in. The Setup: Custom green hose "halos" are wrapped around the base of each individual plant inside the rims of the 25-gallon fabric bags. The Run: Clocked our first official initial run this week. The manifold pushed an excellent, steady volume of water, completely saturating all four massive containers in just **15 minutes**. The Baseline: This uniform edge-to-edge moisture spread is exactly what we need to ensure the organic soil mix stays perfectly charged without leaving dry pockets. No more manual water lugging for my back! 2. Air Gaps & Root Pruning 💨 With the 25-gallon bags lifted entirely up off the deck floor on mobile furniture dollies, we have a perfect air gap underneath. The Impact: Thanks to the low humidity and steady wind on the Eastern Plains, these elevated pots are acting as massive evaporative cooling systems. The 360-degree airflow is drying the bags out from the outside-in and bottom-up. The Strategy: This is triggers natural air-pruning at the bottom, forcing the plants to stop circling their roots and instead blast out a massive web of lateral feeder roots higher up in the rich organic mix. We're keeping a close eye on the bag weights over the next 48 to 72 hours to map out our new watering frequency. 3. Plant Training & Structural Breakdown (Featuring DP5) 📏 The quartet is responding beautifully to the first topping session and ongoing structural training. Current Height: Took the tape measure out to the deck today—**DP5** is sitting stout and muscular right at the 12.5 to 13-inch mark. Canopy Architecture: By pulling the lower branches outward with precise tie-downs secured to the bag rims and supporting them with bamboo stakes, the core of the plants is completely open. Sun & Wind Defense: Node spacing is incredibly tight, building thick, rugged main stalks that split beautifully at the topping nodes. This low, wide profile is exactly what we want to withstand the heavy plains winds. Every single lower growth tip now has direct access to high-altitude UV light, transforming them into future dominant vertical colas. Next Steps The bamboo frameworks are built, and the trellis netting is already waiting in the wings directly behind the deck setup. We’re letting the quartet digest their big drink from the manifold for the next 2 to 3 days to see how they explode horizontally. Once they stack a few more inches and fill out the width of the bags, we'll start weaving them into the screen! -Keep growing and stay mindful! ✌️ Update 5.26.26: The quartet recieved their first full strength nutrients since making the move to the 25 gallon bags. 3 gallons per plant with full nutrients is a hell of a task, but the girls will be happy. PH corrected level of 6.0. 1215 PPM

I noticed that one was growing much larger leaves here, but both look good.

Uz uz to bude

Day 70. Gorgeous plant. Leaves are changing color exactly how the advertisement looks. Fastbuds is dope.