Week 9 she is huge and I'm running out of space. So far she is growing well and very fast I hope she will not stretch any more because there will be no space 😀

Graine germée 26mai. La chèvre a été rempoter dans son pot final, il a enfin la tête à l'envers ! J'ai mis des photos des étapes à la suite, ça a été plus simple que je pensais pour y arriver. Tout d'abord j'ai fixer une règle en inox sur un poteau J'ai mis des billes d'argile sur la surface du pot en géotextile J'ai emballé le chèvre dans du cellophane Je l'ai passer dans le trou de drainage et retiré le cellophane J'ai découpé le géotextile pour le retirer J'ai complété le pot de terreau J'ai mis tous les ingrédients (photo6) en top dress (sauf levure qui a servi arrosage) et j'ai complété pas du foin en Paillage J'ai découpé une feuille en papier blanc au diamètre du pot pour couvrir le paillage comme une bâche meme si je sais que ça sera pas aussi efficace que la bâche mais ça permettra de garder le tout un maximum humide et accélérer la décomposition du top dress J'ai fixer le chèvre a son guide Et je l'ai posé à son emplacement final Maintenant plus qu'à laisser pousser en espérant que ça fonctionne bien, en faisant ça j'espère forcer la ramifications. The Goat est un peu à l'ombre vu qu'il a la tête à l'envers mais c'est pas plus mal vu la puissance du soleil actuelle (+45 degrés celsius) Hate de voir la suite de l'aventure ! Let's grow🌱🍀

Annnnnnnnnd FLIP. Switched to flowering 2 days ago. they are growing unbelievably fast right now its incredible. She is one healthy flourishing plant thats for sure!!! So she has kind of blended in with her friends for the time being but soon the flowers will distinguish them again. I'm expecting some nice thick flowers from this lady. Very excited to see how flowering goes with my first seeds from sweet seeds! Will tuck and do and do a big defoil for the last time this week and then let the ladies basically do their thing for the next 2 months. I proactively trimmed off all the lower nodes earlier so the under canopy is basically already clear. The only odd thing I did notice was all the ladies seem to have smaller main "trunks" than normal yet they seem extremely healthy. ah well lets see how flowering goes!!

Yo la fam attention les yeux 🔥🔥🔥🌱🔥

Hello, This week has been relatively calm, there has not been a big change before I do a watering with fertilizer every other time and I noticed that the new leaves at the top with the tips a little burnt so I will reduce the quantities of fertilizer instead of watering once in two I will water once in three with fertilizer. This week there was watering again. Temperatures range from 30° during the day to 19° at night. Next week there will be more photos. see you soon

Strong genetics, resistant, fast enough, easy to grow and never pretentious. I will try further training techniques on this strain, while waiting to make more room in the box to plant the Red hot cookie as well. If you like sweet flavors and fragrant plants this is definitely for you! Soon new updates for a cycle of only plants in "monstercropping", to continue my eternal red garden 😁🦄 thanks for following me up to here and leave a comment and suggestions 🦄👍🤘

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Scheinen gut auf Kurs zu sein, VEG Phase lief top auch wenn ich bei zwei Pflanzen reingeschissen habe aber man lernt… Bin gespannt wann die fertig gewesen da die bisher ziemlich zügig unterwegs waren.

Ripennig week Day 63 600 par Uv+IR+FR 16/8 Single Hydroponic 120*120*200 Light W= 240

Il top stava procedendo bene le bimbe crescono in salute

UPDATES: - Temp drifting 1-2'C higher due to weather changes. - Nutes changed slightly. - VPD increase of 0.15kPa. - UVB introduced. (2 hours a day at 30cm, mid light cycle) GENETICS: -MSNL - Gorilla Glue Auto ~ my favorite strain, as you can tell by my username! WATER: -Condensed (Starting at 40ppm) -Disinfected prior to adding nutrients etc. (Using COOSPIDER UVC - 253nm & 187nm bulb) CLIMATE: - Ambient Air Temp = 28/30'C ~ 26/27'C LST ~ Leaf to air temp variance of between 1-2'C - Night Temp = 22/23'C ~ Day/Night temp differential 6-7'C - Under Canopy Temp: 26'C (Day) ~ 21'C (Night) - Relative Humidity = 50-60%RH (Avg. 55%RH) - VPD = 1.45kPa (Avg.) - Co2 ranges from 900ppm to 1500ppm (Avg. 1200ppm) AIR PRESSURE: - Ambient Air Pressure (outside tent) = Mean Avg. 1010 mbars (101 Kilopascals) - Actual Air Pressure (inside tent) = Mean Avg. 1005 mbars (100.5 Kilopascals) - Air Pressure Differential = up to 0.5 kPa range between inside & outside LIGHT: - MIGRO UVB310 ~ 2 hours daily mid light cycle. - Warm White 3000K/White 5000k/Far Red (660nm) - At plant canopy = PPFD 900-1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 45,000-55,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65 - Under canopy lighting ~ Blue (460nm)/ Red (630nm) NUTRIENTS: - Mostly Advanced Nutrients (For base nutrients and most additives, as only company I could find scientific data on) - Canna (For Calmag Agent and Cannazym) - Plant Success (Great White Mycorrhizae) ADDITIONAL GROW TECHNIQUES: - Mostly getting out of the plants way and letting nature take its course. - Some LST. (i.e. tying down branches and tucking large leaves away) - No HST or Defoliation. INFECTION PREVENTION & CONTROL: Infection control practices i.e -PPE, Alcohol Hand wash -Gray room outside tent, -Carbon filter -HEPA filter -Plasma Ionizer -Inline UV-C germicidal bulb - Also using an additional higher powered COOSPIDER (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. - Ozone (o3) gas that is produced using the COOSPIDER, is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. - Ed Rosenthal (Zero Tolerance organic pesticide), sprayed once a week as preventative measure. On hand for heavier use (Once every 3 days before lights out for 15 days) in the case of an outbreak (No outbreaks yet, due to aforementioned preventative measures)

🍋🥧🏎️ LEMON PIE AUTO BY FAST BUDS 🏎️🥧🍋 🍋 26.3... 🍋 27.3 ... 🍋 28.3 ... 🍋 29.3 ... 🍋 30.3 go on like this, yeah 🍋 31.3 🍋 1.4

Moin an alle 3. Woche is durch läuft alles ganz OK bis auf die lady hinten rechts das Ph Problem besteht immer noch zwar schwankt es hart aber es nervt gibt sonnst nicht viel zu berichten stretch sollte so gut wie durch sein deshalb habe ich heute am 01.07.22 also freitag nochmal Zusätzlich ringe eingezogen um die Pflanzen ein wenig auseinander zu spreizen um mehr Licht an die einzelnen Blütenstände zu bekommen sollte man aber auf dem Video ganz gut sehen können. Was ich interessant finde das ich die Woche über eine Geruchs explosion der Ladys hatte Montag roch sie typisch nach Gras, Dienstag roch sie wie saure kotze, Mittwoch wie ne süße Frucht, Donnerstag roch sie garnicht, und seid heute also Freitag ne Mischung aus sauer fruchtig und typischem Gras Geruch der aber sehr tief in die Nase eindringt und dort länger verweilt. irgendwie interessant mal sehen was die nächsten Wochen noch so mit sich bringen vll mischt sich ja noch ein anderer Geruchs ton mit ein...

Good week think one is mutated maybe fed it to much water should have given it less then the others

In week 6, began fuller buds and the odor is much higher, I would recommend this genetically preferred carbon filter.Also the plant produces very nice resin and grows very fast (average autoflower 2 times faster)

Tuesday Ok so the plants are doing really well. One of the kalini Asia plants is in the only regular pot I’m using now. It’s a little larger than the AutoPot XL’s so therefore the plant is slightly bigger but spread out because I topped it a while ago and today I took all the bottom leaves as well as quite a few of the lower lateral branches that well small and weak. Hopefully this will encourage the energy to where it want it - The main growth tips! I think it was the other kalini Asia that is in the AutoPot XL that I ended up ‘super cropping’? Do correct me if I used the wrong term. The main growth stems were quite a lot higher than the large lateral branches so I squeezed the stem with my finger and flopped the main colas over then taped them and tied them to support them. The canopy is MUCH more even across all plants now. They look a bit bent over at the moment but I bet when I look tomorrow they are all facing the light again. Magic! They are def in the stretch phase now. They are growing like crazy. I’m really glad I did the nasty job of pulling each plant out and tying it down and cutting off the shit that won’t grow anything good. Oh I also gave them a watering from the top using lots of microbes (ecothrive biosys) and molasses dissolved into warm water. The res was basically empty and honestly the AutoPot XL’s don’t even look wet at all on top even though they are getting all the water they need. They don’t react negatively when I occasionally water goodies in from the top so it’s all good!!

Actualización 05/10/2024 ¡Hola, growers! Perdón por no poder compartir las semanas completas, pero poco a poco volvemos a la normalidad. Las fotos que ven corresponden al día 01/10/24 y, como pueden ver, están llenas de terpenos y tricomas por todas partes. Tanto la Fruit Gum como la Biscotti x Candy Rain son dos de las cepas más resinosas que he cultivado y, además, desprenden un olor increíblemente fuerte. La Fruit Gum tiene esos toques dulces y nostálgicos, como a chicle de mascar, que me transportan directamente a mi infancia. En cuanto a la Biscotti x Candy Rain, su aroma es como el de una clásica galleta americana casera, ¡muy intenso! Ambas cepas me están impresionando mucho por su resinosidad y aromas únicos. Cabe destacar que las genéticas de Uktha Genetics me han sorprendido gratamente; los resultados están siendo fantásticos. Eso sí, estas cepas comen como camiones, pero mientras se mantenga un control exhaustivo de las fertilizaciones y del medio de cultivo, no hay problema de sobrefertilización. Pronto cortaremos una de las plantas que está bastante adelantada. Espero que disfruten tanto como yo este proceso y, como siempre, ¡buenos humos para todos! 🌱💨

everything's looking good 😀 check www.sr-organics.com for some topnotch 5 in 1 fertilizer! root, growth, bloom, micro-organisms, enzymes & vitamins all in one! CODE: "Unkraut10" for 10% Discount! 😊

Just finishing up week 2. Looking for growth to really start. Then comes LST. Topping is a maybe.