Esta cosecha fue muy buena con excelentes resultados de flores muy compactas y demasiado resinosas , la genética en sí es muy resinosa con olor muy característico , con sabores terrosos muy marcados .

Started flushing. Have been a bit absentee but nothing bad so far. Love the purple leaves.

The temperatures, humidity, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil. Day 1 we have lots of sunshine and temperatures in the mid 80's F. I watered today about 1.5-2 gallons per pot directly from the hose. Well water is 7.6 pH and about 50°F. #1 and #2 got topped today. #2 was topped in the evening at 6.30 p.m. I waited for it to get a little more space between the nodes, so there's a bit of stem above the node. This will help it to not split. Day 2 we had thunderstorms and rain in the morning followed by sunshine. The #3 plant was topped today. Day 3 we had lots of sunshine, temps in the mid 80's. That evening we had thunderstorms and rain which became severe that night. Hail was in the forecast but we missed it 🙏. I noticed the number 1 plant was growing crooked. I had moved the pots to get more sunlight and the one was uneven. I did some moving and adjusting today and hopefully it will straighten up. Day 4 we had rain in the morning followed by rain and thunderstorms intermittently into the night. Day 5 we had rains early morning and then cloudy most of the day. We have sunshine in the forecast for the weekend. 🙏🙏🙏 All pots were top dressed with 50ml of ferrous sulfate. Day 6 We had sunshine in the morning and afternoon. Clouds began to move in about 3.30p.m. Suddenly about 4:00 p.m. we had a severe thunderstorm that produced heavy rain and grape sized hail. Thankfully the hail only lasted a few minutes. There was some damage to this group, but only leaves. Day 7 we had sunshine, but cooler temperatures with highs reaching low to mid 70's. The plants began to show some Interveinal chlorosis in the new growth on day 5. I checked pH and it's above 7 in the pots. I added ferrous sulfate to counter this. On day 6 I noticed the #3 plant falling behind from receiving less direct sunlight. I've run out of space to accommodate the suns procession. I moved it to a better place for it to receive more sunlight. This week produced challenges. The topping was successful, but the position of the plants prevented some of them from receiving maximum direct sunlight. It took a few days to notice the affect on growth. We did not have much height gained this week. There was the issue with rising pH again, but this was promptly dealt with. We survived the challenging weather. Overall a successful week as lots of downward root growth was achieved. This will be evident next week as plants shoot up.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂 1/18 11:58AM. BRAM STOKERS TRAILER PARK DRACULA........I SHOULD BE WORKING ON THE PLANTS BUT THIS IS REALLY GOOD. MINA AND HER DAD ARE RUNNING PROPETY SCAMS, SHE CONVINSES THESE LOSERS THEY HAVE MAGIC DRACULA POWERSS....AND WE STEAL THEIR TRAILLER. REINFEILD RANDY , JULIANFIGURES IT OUT AND BLACKMAILS BOTH OF THEM. AND MUSICAL GUEST KISS!! A GREAT HALLOWEEN EPISONDE.... OH I FORGOT I AM SUPOSSSED TO BE GRWOING PIT.

Hola amigos, volvemos en el último momento. Faltan dos semanas más. Reduciré la intensidad de la luz

Girl scout cookies finished

F29 beginning of 4th week of flowering SD3 - initially sweet orange then engine grease SD2 - initially sharp vaseline then engine grease mixed with kerosine.I personally like SD2 more. Even with the stunted growth. SD3 is getting yellow from the bottom and i dont know what to do. I had thrips so i sprinkled diatomaceus earth on top of the soil and rubbed some on the fan leaves and stems. Sorry for the reddish pics

When it should start flowering?

Sono passato dal 75% al 100 % di dimmer, Marshydro depp red 18 ore ccese Marshydro uv 10 minuti ogni ora per 18 ore Ps lo streins al centro è la mexican

Week 4 - 5

We’re deep into Week 8, and Blue Banana Cream is stacking up beautifully. Trichomes are looking frosty, covering the buds in a thick, sticky layer—definitely a strain that’s going to shine post-cure. The aroma has intensified compared to earlier weeks, now pushing out a stronger creamy, fruity scent with a slight gas undertone. Every time I open the tent, it hits harder. The buds are swelling up nicely, transitioning from airy to more mid-compact density. Pistils are still mostly white, meaning it’s got a bit more time before it fully ripens. One thing I’ve noticed—the branches are starting to lean from the weight, so some light support might be needed to prevent them from bending too much in the final stretch. I’m keeping temps at 18-20°C and humidity around 55-60% to ensure a proper finish. With harvest around the corner, it’s just about watching those trichomes shift from clear to cloudy/amber and letting this one reach its peak.

The sun was there this week. Despite the yellowing of the lower leaves, the Gorilla Punch and the Pound Cake look good. The Apricot and the Orange Sherbet are not so good. Parameters : ------------------------------------------- Humidity range : 30-65% depending on the sun Temperature range : 20-30°C depending on the sun SUN Average : very sunny Plants heights at the end of the week : ------------------------------------------- Apricot : 20,5 cm Gorilla Punch : 25 cm Orange Sherbet : 25.5 cm Pound Cake : 33 cm

Around 30 days or close to it. Coming along nice. Turned down the light a bit in attempt to cool the tent and induce a taller stretch. 🤷

30% of the pistils are brown now. Trichrome are 100% milky. Started flushing on this week. I hope that buds are still going to fatten up a lititle before harvest.

Just pulled it today. Lots of pics to come and the weigh in. Going to update everything as I cure. Curing is going well. Speed dried a little as I’m impatient as hell. Pretty happy with the results. This White Widow strain is very good. Extremely resistant to bugs. I’ve dealt with a spider infestation throughout this grow and only got it under control in the last few weeks. Daily maintenance and cleaning got me through flower and I was able to pull this off. At harvest it was cut and immediately went into a bud wash to clean them up and remove any leftover mites, residue, etc. I usually do a bud wash, especially if it’s outdoor. If done properly it has no impact and I find it produces a smoother taste tbh. This was my second attempt at dwc. I’m very happy with it and will continue. I’ll update the weights when things are cured.

4ème semaine de floraison. Cette dame ce porte a merveille ☠️☠️💀 irrigation tous les 3 jours environ 6L, 12L/Semaine.

Čeeeeest Jak je ? U mne je 6 ty tyden za námi a ja koukám jak to hezky roste. Poslední holka šla do květu až v polovině týdne. Vypadá typově jako sativa tak uvidíme jaký bude rozdíl. Holky sem tam ostříhám plachťáky a vrchní listy ať jde světlo hezky dolů. Ve skleníku si F1 chrochtá a už tam má i bandu malých špuntů. Přitápím tam a ve středu možná zakryju textilkou . Šišky se zvětšují ,vše mi klape tak snad to tak i vydrží . Přeji úspěšný Groove bando 🤝💪🙏