●dwarfs have slow down on grow hope the buds will get bigger.🤔 ●honeys are getting bigger and more leafes with small signs of flowering. ●no wonder my 12/12 did nothing ...went from 18/6 to 16/8 🤦‍♂️🏽🤪 ●now 17/01/2021 set 12/12 ...from 6 till 18h. 🤦‍♂️🏽😂👍 ●getting pretty white my dwarfs... ●heavy defoliation on 22/1 = more light ●honeys weak and no flowering to see.🤔

Flowers starting to bulk up a bit. Some awesome smells coming off these girls. Can't wait to test 'em. 😍😍

Rite troops new diary here hav planted three kings kush hav the chronic at the bak well there finishing av potted up so Am @ it again hav a skittles fae grizley seed bank n that lovely chronic ghank you delicious seeds rite well troops al try ma best tae keep youz updated there will be a harvest video of the other diary but had to start a new one for the kush n remember am starting fae seed on 12 /12 light cycle a hav monster cropped clones in here and will be switching light schedule very soon to a 18 / 6 vegging and revenging 😎

Hello again my friends! I uploaded longer vids this time for the Vlogs, you don't have to watch em they're there for ya if you're interested :) ~Update~ To start off the girls look great, I'm excited that I'm back where I was when my "First Grow" failed. What's interesting to me is seeing the big difference in the SSH, the 2 previous girls I had were veracious growers, 3 1/2 days of germination and they had a tap root longer than an inch! This one is not so aggressive and has stronger sativa genetics, thin not phat. The others have been doing well, no pest yet which I'll be doing a bleach wipe down of my side of the garage to reduce the chances of an invasion. ~Note~ I'll be updating later this week with a short vid showing the progress. If you happen to watch my longer vlogs let me know what you think down in the comments, I appreciate the feedback ya'll provide. Have a blessed day, much love Meus <3 ~Update 9-19-18 [Mainline]~ So things went well, I'm looking forward to seeing if the clones take. Check out the vid if you wanna see my first attempt at mainlining! The next update will be Tuesday, see ya then!

So.. the flush begins for DD#1 and #2 checking trich’s and these to ladies are showing about 70% clear to 30% cloudy may finish in week nine. DD#3 still in bloom throwing tons of white hairs and purple flowers 100% clear trichs so she’s gonna get another feeding. DD# 4 is the showcase cause not only did she start out slow but she’s the only 1 of the 4 that’s started purple flowers and and is also purple leafed. I’ll continue to post some picture tonight wanted to get this up as I am flushing and pulling them out of the tent to do so. Also continue to add photo every 2 days. Updated 4/30 day 58 posted video and some new photos Day 60 really started to look at trich’s since plants are definitely getting close. DD#1 looks to be my heaviest producer trich’s are 60/40 no amber yet DD#2 80/20 no amber DD#3 90/10 no amber but it must be a mutation or something in the genetics cause it’s no longer thickening up its foxtailing all over so she still got time and we’ll see DD#4 is looking good and has a few weeks before I’ll start checking trich’s on her, pistols popping white all over the place.

Hello, This plant is not as big as her sisters but the buds are pretty tight.. Has been a easy plant to grow and I look forward to watching her finish! Have a great day😎

8/3 12:36AM MONDAY FULL RETARD MODE ACTIVATED 8/3 10AM " They look solid for where they are. **Quick visual read:** - **Right plant (front)** — strongest of the three. Good color, solid node spacing, leaves are filling out nicely, no obvious stress. This one is handling the current feed best. - **Back plant (Mendo Frost)** — clean and upright, healthy light-to-medium green. Looking very consistent. - **Left plant (front)** — a bit behind the other two in size and leaf development. Color is still good, but it’s the lagging phenotype of the three. Common with mixed RF3 packs — you’ll often get one that starts slower. None of them are showing tip burn, clawing, or dark “overfed” green, which means your decision to keep the EC at 0.93 while adding the light amino dose was correct. They’re not hungry yet either (no pale yellowing or slow growth signs), so jumping straight to 1.1 without aminos today is a clean next step. At this stage (early veg, still small pots/coco), staying in the 0.9–1.2 range is ideal for RF3s and Mendo Frost. They’re still building structure and roots more than bulk. Once the stronger two start putting on more rapid growth and the internodes begin tightening a bit, you can ease toward the higher end of that range. One small observation: the left plant’s lower leaves look a touch softer/less turgid than the others. Keep an eye on whether that improves after the next watering. If it stays lagging while the other two take off, you can always give it a slightly lighter feed or just let it catch up at its own pace — mixed packs almost always have one slower starter. Overall they look healthy and on track. The amino experiment didn’t push them over. You’re dialed in right now."" 8/5 12:16AM. 8/3 Grandpa from the Lost Boys Mode activated 8/7 3:41am 👍 Yes, 400 mg each of L-proline and L-phenylalanine in a gallon of water is a low, one-time dose that should have only a minor effect on EC. Rough concentration 1 US gallon ≈ 3.785 L ~400 mg of each → roughly 105–106 mg/L per amino acid (total ~210–212 mg/L). Proline molecular weight is ~115 g/mol, so this is about 0.9 mM. Phenylalanine is higher MW (~165 g/mol), so closer to 0.6 mM. These are in the range commonly discussed for plant use (often 0.5–2 mM or a few hundred mg per gallon for proline as a stress aid). Effect on EC Amino acids do contribute some conductivity because they can ionize (especially depending on pH), but far less than mineral fertilizer salts at the same mass. At this low concentration the rise is usually modest—often in the 0.1–0.3 mS/cm ballpark or less, depending on your starting water, existing nutrients, and meter. In practice, many growers add pure L-amino acids at similar or higher rates without big EC swings. The big EC jumps seen in some studies come from much higher doses of mixed commercial amino products. Measure your solution EC (and pH) before and after dissolving them so you know exactly what happened in your mix. If you’re already running a target EC for the autos, you can simply account for the small bump or dilute slightly if needed. Will it help / any downside? L-Proline: Plants accumulate it under stress (heat, drought, salinity, osmotic stress). Exogenous proline is often used to support osmotic adjustment and stress tolerance. A single modest dose is unlikely to hurt and may give a small buffer if the plants are dealing with any environmental stress. L-Phenylalanine: Precursor in the phenylpropanoid pathway (leads toward flavonoids, lignin precursors, and various secondary metabolites). Some research and grower use explores it for supporting secondary metabolism; effects are more variable and usually not dramatic from one application. Because this is a one-time introduction at a conservative rate, risk of imbalance or toxicity is low for autoflowers and your other plants. Amino acids are generally well-tolerated when kept moderate; the main caveats with higher or repeated doses are possible effects on nitrogen metabolism or nutrient uptake patterns, and the fact that they can feed microbes if the solution sits too long. Practical notes These are pure L-forms from the labels (BulkSupplements and Nutricost), which is what you want. Dissolve fully, check pH/EC, and use reasonably soon. For coco or other soilless media, just include it in a normal feed or water event. No need to change your overall regimen for a single application. Keep an eye on the plants for a few days after (normal advice with any new input). If everything looks happy, you’re good. You’re not wrong for trying a light one-off addition of these two. It’s a reasonable, low-risk experiment at the dose you used. Measuring the actual EC change will give you the clearest answer for your specific water and nutrient base..👍 8/7 11:54 PM Classic Stock Car Race Replays by My Journey 4K.... distracted by classic cars again

Buenas a tod@s....🏻‍♂️ Bueno esta fue la última semana de gestación para las lemon cookies kush, no se estiraron tanto pero bueno cada uno a su tiempo, las veo bien, fuertes, más alla de la altura las veo muy bien, controlando mucho la temperatura en esta época del año q hace más frío, lo demás van muy bien... Ahora cambio de siclo y vemos a ver q tal van... Buen fin de para tod@s y buenos humos... 💨💨😎👍🏻 🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦

Week of 09/22 - Prepped through the week for clone transplants and B clones - Transplanted clean into 1 gallon pots (Set of 10 A clones in a 4x4 tent. B clones rooting in 17 gallon tote - prepping for 1 gallon transplant in 2 weeks. Mother has been in flower and moved into 4x4 tent on 09/24

Not a personal favourite of mine but thats not to say others won't love it. Overall good strain, nice buds too. Thanks to RQS for the opportunity to grow her. 0

"And God said, Let there be light, and there was light." Genesis 1:3 Inhale for 13s, Exhale for 13s, Inhale for 8s, Exhale for 8s, Inhale for 5s, Exhale for 5s, Inhale for 3s, Exhale for 3s, Inhale for 1s, Exhale for 1s, Alignment. 1.618 More energy, more blueprint. Electrical Conductivity refers to how easily a material or solution allows electrons or ions to flow continuously when an electrical potential is applied. Electrochemical Reactance is the opposition to alternating current (AC) caused specifically by the temporary storage of energy in electric or magnetic fields, rather than energy being lost as heat. Reactance does not directly alter a material's intrinsic electrical conductivity. Instead, it dictates how the system stores and releases energy over time, which creates a temporary barrier to current flow in AC circuits. Together with resistance, reactance makes up total impedance. Electrical impedance (the combination of resistance and reactance) in the rhizosphere dictates how easily ions and water move into plant roots, directly impacting the Electron Transport Rate (ETR). High impedance restricts ion mobility, leading to nutrient deficiencies that decrease ETR and stunt overall plant growth. Using copper and zinc plates in the plant medium to form a natural earth battery to assist with Electrochemical Reactance. The moist soil acts as an electrolyte, while zinc serves as the anode and copper as the cathode. Zinc is a highly reactive metal and oxidizes, losing electrons into the soil. These electrons travel through an external wire to the copper plate. The moisture and dissolved salts in your plant medium allow charged ions to move freely between the plates, completing the circuit and generating a small direct current (usually between 0.8 and 1.1 volts). This micro-current subtly alters/the Electrical Conductivity (EC), allowing more effective breaking apart of chemical bonds in the soil (electrolysis), making soil nutrients like phosphorus, calcium, and potassium more accessible to roots. Buried the zinc plate on one side of the plant’s root zone and the copper plate on the opposite side. Ran an insulated copper wire above ground to connect the zinc plate to the copper plate, creating a closed loop. Make sure your soil remains moist and contains natural mineral salts; entirely distilled water or bone-dry medium will prevent ion exchange and block the current.

Vyzerajú pripravené na kvet🤪ešte 1 týždeň ,myslím🤔🤔

Day 55: I have finally moved the girls inside the tent :) On 1 of the 2 girls I see some brown spots, and some yellowing and are thinking something is wrong here? I think it might be a Mag + Calcium Deficiency and I think I should up the PH a bit, but what du you guys think? The other girl looks healthy and fine, although I see some light-green color, but not too much. It might be a beginning of what the other girl is suffering from. I have not measured my run-off water for some time, as I am having trouble with my meter, and are falling back to the color-tester (drops) which are far from accurate. I also got my reverse osmosis system, and I now get 0.08 EC water. My water was 0.9 EC before so I'm happy with that. Also the PH has dropped from 8.5+ to around 7.0-7.5 so I think I am able to make a more stable PH change with acetic acid Thank you for all the answers!. I am now going for ph 6-6.5, and I have also increased the nutrients I use, as I am now using RO water. I am also setting up my lamp from Mars Hydro today, pictures follows tomorrow

11/25 503AM Forgot to add Monday. DDA is done but I will keep her going because reviews take time ...SO here is a photo of the back of Christine soundtrack 1983 record. This was a Halloween grow but its now the Winter 25 to Spring 26 grow. 11/26 230am. 👍. 4am😈💡. 11/28 11am 11/29 10:04AM.... Recipe for disaster...Use tap water without letting it rest over night uncovered THEN use too much of a perfectly good organic like Tasty Terps to ruin the balance with non-organic nutrient mix /coco and damage the plants....Also, use too much Purpinator....its works great but I can not make it work right YET in my microsystem..... I thought I had it all figured out....but the LIGHTS WERE TOO BRIGHT. this is my first grow with Samsung LED's....88-93 Watts seems to be the safe range for flowering. at those watts they dont produce much heat , I dont have a light meter thats reliable I ll get this one from Amazon and do screen shots.

Well, I've been comparing this with similar strains, untill now, i think she sugar kush is less profitable when using LST, but it works good, and the plant is nice and low

The bud is dense & strong are the smells Great strain :) Great stem rub. very fruity and dank. I bet these will be high on taste!

The bud are dense and covered in trichomes. Very tasteful in vape (Utilian 722). It taste like creamy berry. The buzz start with a head rush to finish with a body buzz. Sometimes the head rush is a bit to much. I don't know if it's because of this pheno or the genetic or due to a bad flush. Overall I'm very satisfied with my first harvest and I will keep the Glue Gelato to smoke it.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Le LST est fini mon tronc en forme de colonne vertébrale fais un tour sur lui meme (vidéo jour32) cette forme me satisfait pleinement je décide donc de retirer la majorité des fil de fer servant au LST Le pincage d'Apex offre à la plante une canopé homogène (photo jour 32 34) Jour33 arrosage avec 2 litres d'eau ph6 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.5ml de topmax biobizz (dosage très léger pour ne pas provoquer un lock-out) cela favorisera son entrée en floraison. J'effectue une légère defolliation pour permettre une meilleure pénétration lumineuse aux apexs du bas. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Que la force soit avec vous 💪

7/18 so even though shes been flowering for only 5 weeks(starting6) shes looking closer to being done than I had expected. Shes been losing alot of yellow leaves and most of the pistils are orange now. I checked the trichomes as best as I could today and on the main/top cola, I saw some amber but very little. But the rest of the buds were mostly clear I believe. I still want her to keeo going another few weeks but we'll see as time and trichomes progress. I added some extra flowering nutes and a product thats got good stuff like kelp and molasses and crab meal and stuff besides NPK values to help the plants put on some extra weight hopefully. 7/19 just took pictures/videos and checked trichomes 7/22 checked trichomes. The very top nugs have some amber on them and the rest are mostly cloudy. Wish I wouldve been checking the trichomes sooner so I couldve started flushing sooner. I wish i wouldve stopped using open sesame sooner as well. Next time im gonna do some things different with these plants. Once the soils dry probably gonna chop