Been feeding just water ready for the chop. Some of them have all brown pistils and have pretty much stopped all together. The kalimist indica pheno is still flowering so I'll let it go until it looks ripe 👍

After topping last week we've just been watching them grow. Bending down the branches to help them spread out. Over this next week I'll start my lst ties to help pull them down and out.

Week 8 for Strawberry Gorilla by fastbuds Don't notice much growth to be honest think its due to this plant being in a darkish shed because we've had super strong rain storms pretty much the whole week... Which really isnt ideal at this point😓But seems like the rain is over now LETS HOPE! She was fed once this week with some FPJ, Regulator, Enzym+ & Topbooster by @aptus_portugal right at the start of the week. Humidity has been so high that the pots still seem very heavy. I was thinking she would be done in 2ish weeks but seems like it may take its full life cycle to get her done.

This girl is doing what she wants spreading out and loving the space I made for her with the 10 gallon pot. There are pistils popping everywhere on her pre flower I guess I have to start flowering her for the next week.

I love this auto so much! I’m scared to defol her at this stage don’t want to trigger any stress until the buds are more formed! But all in all I think I’m in for a great harvest!! My auto training is complete! I know what I’m doing with these girls now!

Shortly after they were switched to flowering (after week 3) the plants continue to stretch and then start to develop their first flowers. Now in week 7 all plants have very nice flower clusters all over the plant and side branches. They have grown to 45 cm (=Shiva Skunk on left side) and 40 cm (Serious Kush on right side of aisle) in height respectively and all plants have a nice dark green color, which shows they are healthy and also that the Advanced Nutrients schedule works like a treat. The Q6W-Gen.2 LED-Lamps are now dimmed to 100% (=three green LEDs on the dimmer) and work on FULL POWER, which ensures full fledged flower production. Both varieties have now started to exude their typical aroma. The Shiva Skunk starts to smell musky and sweet, while the Serious Kush smells 'gassy' and 'fuely' like its OG-Kush heritage. The flower clusters on the Serious Kush appear to grow denser than the clusters on the Shiva Skunk.

For now I'm happy with the germination,Even the transplant in the organic coco hydro growth modules all right yesterday✌️🏿

It's been a challenging couple of weeks, but things are looking up! After some LED light stress due to an additional led light being added, the plants have rebounded beautifully. Last week, I gradually increased the light intensity from 67% to 80%, and we're now into the second week of a reduced 12-hour light schedule. Every strain is thriving, and the tent is filling out nicely. The bonus auto-flower is particularly impressive, budding out at an incredible rate. A bit of LST has led to some stunning bud sites. The smell is strong, and the sticky resin is already starting to show—promising signs of a great yield ahead! Side note: Took pictures and videos with the tent lights off and camera light. It looks like an entirely different plant. The Trichomes reflect so much stronger with the cell LED when staring straight on.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞

Semana 15 abril - 21 abril 16 abril feeding day (1.5l) 20 abril feeding day

sry das ich so spät hochlade

This lady hasn't stretched up so much during pre flower, she has a nice size anyways and I cannot smell any terpenes yet on day 23 of flower, I cannot wait to see how this lady develops some big and sticky flowers! Stay with me on this journey guys! Let's keep on growing!, 💛💚❤️👨‍🌾🔝

Day 88-89 - PH still out of whack. Did a Res change, and still having the same PH problem. It drops hourly. PPMs now around 700. I added 1/4tsp of SubCulture B with the res change this time. Day 90 - 38F - Added a second air pump to Res. Both airstones were engulfed by roots, so i moved one into a more open area, and the second pump doubled the bubbles and the res is now moving much more. Day 91 - 39F - PH was back to normal! (5.9). Hoping it was the lack of oxygen.. Day 92 - 40F - PH was still 5.9. Seems like everything is back to normal. Day 94 - 42F - Changed Res/Nutes.

I think I didn’t use enough nutrients… leaf tips are little bit burnt, EC too high? I don’t measure my EC, only pH.

by far the strongest and most vigorous of all my ladies. she is showing signs of flower more quickly than all the others

Dli 40. Nice bud forming, loving the Ec 2.2. Gorilla zkittles seems an indica pheno pretty short. Mendocino x animal cookies just amazing sativa phenos. Some weeks to go. Definitely one plant will take longer to mature. So planning to get a small drying tent. Any recommendation?