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@Jsammy09
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Hello, Hello! This week has been another pretty solid week. Kind of continuing where we left off from last week. Just continuing to monitor the grow room conditions and make adjustments as need, though its been super solid and not a lot has been needed. I did lower the power of my light back down to 50%, some of my leaves were starting to taco and I came to the conclusion it was due to some of the branches being closer to the lights, but other than that no real issues. I did up the EC by .1 this week so now we are running at 1.0 EC and 5.9-6.1ph. These ladies are really starting to pack on the weight and trichomes this week and looking forward to see the changes over the next week or so! Temps have been pretty stable around 77-78f and around 50-55RH. I did do another round of light defoliation on the day of water change, but nothing too crazy. Getting excited to see these girls finish! As always, any tips, comments, or recommendations are greatly welcomed and appreciated. Thanks everyone, you guys rock!
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@BruWeed
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☘️04/05 - Empieza su primera semana en etapa de crecimiento. ☘️En el día de hoy le estuve agregando tres productos de Top Crop, Vege,Barrier y Green Explosion, para esta etapa es muy importante utilizarlos. ☘️Esta midiendo 7cm de largo. ☘️El 04/05 cumple 13 días de vida en total desde su germinacion. ☘️La planta creció muy rápido de una semana a otra, se encuentra en perfectas condiciones sin tener hasta el momento ningún problema. ☘️Antes de entrar en etapa de crecimiento hice el cambio de maceta, estaba utilizando una Root House de 3L y ahora estoy utilizando una Root de 10L. ☘️En estos dias seguire subiendo mas imagenes de como viene su evolución. ☘️Podes seguirme en Insta gram como @bruweed_arg 😶‍🌫️
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@foxbberg
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Flipped to 12/12 at day 43. Raised light-intensity from 60 to 90 %. Now +70% of the net is filled and i can see potential to make it an evenly shaped bowl full of fruits:-) The deep, dark colour has turned to a juicy green, shoots everywhere....... everything fine but two little things: 1) run-off-pH is a bit high...... 6.6-6.9. will feed rather acidic next time.... 2) Main Colas get a bit tall..... will supercrop them as soon, as the rest of the cannopy is organzied to a clean scrog. Nutritionwise i lowered N, raised K and gave an extra P-shot (0,05 g/L BLOSSOM-BOOST) on days 43 and 44. Day 45 fed pH 5.8 - readings immediatly dropped to 6.3 to 6.5 👍 Vigorous stretch.....!!! Mounted some more hooks to get the scrog even - works perfectly now! +80% of the net is filled......and the colas in the corner almost make plants of their own - i will supercrop them, as soon as they don't stretch any more. Day 46 fed pH 6.1 today..... readings still good (average 6.4) took out some more leafs today, to give a little more light to young shoots. Smell is getting stronger, but no visible signs of flowering yet.
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05_02: ça y est là flo. A démarrer. Un grand merci à @xpertnutrients pour son support! Pour l'instant j'utilise que les booster et les micro nuts de la game et ça le fait 👌 nickel. Je suis impatient de faire un session avec uniquement du xpert nutrients. En tout Cas leurs additifs sont aux top!
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@Fergie
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hey guys so we are getting very close now . i collect my new aircon unit tomo morning im going to throw straight in tent and drop down to 18 for last few weeks . I started flush begining of week on both girl looking so nice a d smell is just amazing . Til next week only a few more to go 😀
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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Powder: GREENHOUSE BIO FEEDING Line which are organic! For LIQUIDS ******GREEN BUZZ LIQUIDS***** also organic. Also i’m using their LIVING SOIL CULTURE in powder form! MARSHYDRO ⛺️ has large openings on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ MARSHYDRO FC 3000 LED 300W ☀️Also special thanks to VIPERSPECTRA P2000 (200W) & XS2000(240w) LED growlights 💨MARSHYDRO 6” in-line EXTRACTOR with speed-variation knob, comes complete with ducting and carbon filter.
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@CANNASIM
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A lot of rain and wind, continuously. Temps have dropped as well. I’m reading another week or two to chop this plants. Sativa dominant hybrids did the best, the Fastberry and the banana purple punch did not really develop as the other two. In specifics the cbd crack developed sizable buds, and the blue dream as well, the flowers are not as developed tight and dense as in the indoor grow. A bit of fox-tailing nothing too expressive. Minimal work, as per the setup chosen, an no extra nutes this week.
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@Autocrops
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At this stage the stretch was very noticeable
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Despite having had some problems during the growth 99% for my demerits and faults and 1% for my fault the child has recovered great and in the end she looks very very beautiful and fit. The flowers smelled no good because in that room there is the smell that I would like to hear on my deathbed to imagine flying who knows where. Music of the Week - Gerorge Clinton to get crazy bud. Radio Nula from Slovenia the rest of the time. Light >> Marshydro SP3000 AT 90% of Power Tent >> Marshydro 120x60x180 Check IG >> https://www.instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress2/ Buy >> marshydroled.aliexpress.com https://2fast4buds.com/
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@Krissci
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Last few weeks...should be ready to flush now... Full nuts feed - day 1 Onwarrd will be sugar based water and flush only
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Welcome to the Sweet Seeds Cup 🏆 Hi everyone 🤗. Today is day 30 of flowering (day 38 since the time has been changed to 12/12). It just looks great 😍👍. @SweetSeeds that's what I call masterful genetics what you conjure up 🤗👍. It just grows perfectly, the lower shoots have grown to the upper level and have beautiful, steady stems. They are so robust that I don't have to support them yet 😃. I increased the Canna Bio Flores food from 3 ml / l to 4 ml / l a week because it now puts all its power into the buds 👍. It already smells so good that you don't want to wait until it's fermented 🙈. Of course I took cuttings from this fabulous genetic, and I am already happy to have saved them 🙏🏻. I'm very excited to see what a taste will develop with these two super genetics by Kosher Kush and OG Kush . I will go down about 5 cm with the lamp again for a week before I put it a little higher than it is now :-). I wish you all a lot of fun with the new update, a nice start to the new week 👌, stay healthy and safe 🙏🏻. Let it grow 🌱 Sweet Seeds Cup 🏆 Type: San Fernando Lemon Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: OG Kush x Kosher Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Canna Bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3 💦💧 You can Buy the Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/san-fernando-lemon-kush/
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@PoshGrow
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Welcome to Ultimate Auto Grow by PoshGrow! 🍀 Week #10 2020 November 2nd. - 9th. General Info: When planted: 2020 September 1st. Week: 10 Days: 63 - 70 Last Update Day: 2020 November 9th. Plants: 4 x OG Kush Auto 3 x Amnesia Auto 5 xAlaskan Purple Auto 2 x Blueberry Auto 1 x Northern Lights Auto Total: 15 girls. NOTICE: Check week 1 for full equipment list! UPDATE: I got 8 ltr. Or 2 gallon Spear&Jackson Pressure Sprayer to help me with watering. Comment: Hey guys! This whole week I watering with only ph corrected water to flush them and get rid of all deficiency/excess of nuts. And seems its helping. After this flush, Ill continue with nuts for last stage of flowering, I think for a week, then flushing again before harvest. Separate nuts schedule and dosage for NL girl, also wont be using on plants thats close to harvest. OG will be ready to harvest at the end of the week for sure so Ill post harvest week😉 Amnesia and Blueberry strains needs few more days, Ill check trichomes daily with digital microscope. Northern Lights is still in pre flowering stage, so I think Ill finish her with my next grow. Going to be a long run 😆 Alaskan Purple will be ready in week 13 or 14 I guess. Stay tuned and happy growing! ✌️
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hello some news on vegetation day 22, start the bio grow, and bend the four Lateral head, and crap when i bend a stem has cracked but she is not cut I straighten them with a piece of iron she can go back. 😀👍