I'm very happy I've already got 107 grams out. I still have 2 plants drying and I'm excited to see how they turn out😊😊💚

Transplant to texpot 15 l Bac Funky funji 4g

I had alot of Fun with this Grow, and a lot of Growers, had a Story about the Strawaberry Cough. Thank you all for sharing that with me!!! I learned alot about the heritage of this Strain and its appearing in Movies and Music. Mr. Kushman itself had a great Story about Strawberry Cough, and how he got them as a Present But back to the Grow fast Germinating, Germiating Rate 100 Percent, fast grower, and then the Journey began...... One Pheno turned out with Cottoncandylike Buds , The other Pheno with Fistsized Dense Buds Booth showed a wonderful Scent, and they were a Pleasure to look One Plant is still growing Thank you @Miister_lee , for the opportunity to grow them And LEGALIZE WORLDWIDE

Still going strong in flower! We are at the 6 week mark. The smells are very good when I pull off the lower bud sites. Can’t even describe it yet. I wanna say a rich fruit like smell. I can’t stop smelling my hands. Both flowers uniqueness can be seen and smelled. Aiming to begin flushing within 10 days.

Placing a dehumidifier or humidifier in the grow box turned out to be ineffective when both devices have their own automated settings. For instance, a humidifier set to 55% humidity works within a ±5% range, meaning it waits until the humidity drops below 50% to turn on and runs until it hits 60%. Since its sensor refreshes every 30 seconds, it might show 54% one moment and jump to 61% the next—not exactly stable at 55%. The dehumidifier behaves similarly. To achieve more consistent results, it’s better to rely on a hygrometer inside the grow box and use “dumb” devices that simply turn on when powered. Connecting these devices to smart outlets provides more precise control. For manual control, I maintained around 55% humidity by turning the humidifier and exhaust fan on and off via phone. Most moisture and aroma are released during the first three days, then taper off. The common rule of “when thin branches snap, it’s dry” led me to overdry my buds. A more reliable method is to monitor the hygrometer. When humidity stabilizes after the initial rise, wait one more day and then jar the buds. Rehydrating Overdried Buds: Overdried buds can be revived with a small piece of mandarin (or orange) peel, about 2.5x2.5 cm. Thoroughly wash the peel (even sanitize it if needed), cut a square, and place it on top of the buds in the jar. In my experience, this brought the humidity from 46% to 62% within 4 hours. Afterward, burp the jars for 15 minutes and monitor the hygrometer. If the humidity drops below 55%, return the peel for a few more hours. Once stable at 60-62%, remove the peel and continue curing, burping the jars twice daily for 15 minutes. As for humidity packs like Integra Boost or Boveda, I used them because I had some lying around. These packs are designed for 12 grams of product, so they don’t make a big difference in larger jars. If you burp jars daily and gently rotate the buds, they’re not really necessary. Trimming and Results: After 7 days of drying, I decided to trim dry this time. It turned out to be somewhat more convenient—everything gets covered in resin anyway, but the remaining leaves easily fall off, speeding up the process. I went for a tight trim, removing as much as possible. During the process, I felt disappointed seeing how little remained on the branches. The buds turned out airy and small, and I started cursing American genetics halfway through the trim. However, when it came to weighing, the results were surprisingly decent. Considering the buds' poor appearance, they’re not going to impress anyone visually, so it might have been easier to shred everything and use it for extraction. I don’t have extraction equipment, so I’ll make cannabutter from the trim, and the buds can rest in jars for now. Takeaways: Use a proper hygrometer for humidity control, not built-in sensors on humidifiers or dehumidifiers. Overdried buds can be easily rehydrated with citrus peel. Daily burping and rotation are sufficient for curing without humidity packs. Dry trimming can be faster and more convenient but may highlight issues with bud density. Despite underwhelming appearance, high resin content makes the strain great for extraction.

We are getting there can wait for end results..

In dieser Woche ist nichts nennenswertes passiert. Sie reift langsam vor sich hin. Die obersten Blätter sind durch den Lichtstress ordentlich knusprig und es fangen an sich Foxtails zu bilden. Trichome werden jetzt alle 2 Tage gecheckt. Ich denke sie braucht noch eine Woche. Der Geruch ist mittlerweile ziemlich stark geworden.

She was a pleasure to cut. Beautiful trim. So far pure berries and gas. I'll update on the smoke report once she's cured. I had a mini toke sesh earlier and it was definitely LSD. Definitely turning on some different visual/auditory receptors. It was nice and long and happy. She's only going to continue to get better. The buds are kind of fluffy but I find that all the purples I've grown turn out like that. The greens tend to produce much more weight/density. I'm not one to harp on density. I'm more about the flavor/effect.

Well mother fu**** woke up one morning and saw that one of the NANAZ got something that looks like nute burn (keep in mind I feed them all the same exact thing!) what happened to that plant should of happened to the others but what a pain in the ass.. it is completely brown now and I think I’m chopping it no room for uglies in the tent!

Our girl is doing really nice, the training was successful and now part of her is under ground and she is growing nice. I have increased the water intake a bit more 6.01.26 Yesterday I have toped her and she took it well, and finished all training for her, she is late looking really nice and compact now.

This one was great to grow. Great structure, great smel and taste, full of resin and beautiful colors. You could really feel the gelato in this runtz, with just enough of GMO to make you wonder what's the other taste you're getting. Full hybrid, could really take the high each way I wanted! Loved it, hope to do this one again in the future (:

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Todas las semillas salieron perfectamente ! Como siempre un placer de hacer colaboración con PEV seeds ! Espero tener más mano con este cultivo … saludos

This is my 2nd grow of Runtz Auto by Zamnesia. It's a fairly compact strain, smells fruity and this go around smells very similar to poison strains (red poison, Durban poison, ect). I believe the terpene is terpinolene. I wish I could test it😅. Anyways, She was chopped on day 80 Spent 7 days drying Yield: 2.02 ounces dry weight Huge thanks to plagron and Zamnesia. Thanks to the eternity Grow Cup. It was an honor. 🙏

12/17/2021 They are growing well,#1 will be eliminated she is a runt, and way to far behind her sisters in growth, so culling her tomorrow. Ps. #1 sprang back to life! No sign of sex yet but soon I hope, as I was hoping for a short veg. More pics of #2-#8 in a.m. Pretty cool to see plants know when lights going to out, and leaves look lower (drooping) about an hour before light shuts off !. Getting ready for (sleep)? Pics 1-8 at lights on and leaves starting to reach for the sky (waking up) Plants are about 31 days old and should start to show signs of sex.

These bids are looking nice and fat, a very nice og Kush smell and vigorous plants, this week we are flushing and i think that somewhere around next week the plants might be ready but of course i will review the tricomes 😁

Turned off IR @ nights Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is far superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison to synthetic delivery, which causes plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing, regenerative cultivation. ATP is king above all else when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" (active) nutrient uptake. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. If that makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic methods because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversions. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. Corporate interest sells you the other 3-5% NPK & all the rest in RATIOS! Why not throw the 3-5% in a pot, and focus your energy on the other 95-97%? Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

No deficiencies thus far adding some molasses each feeding 1 tbls per gal water