Welkome to week 3 of my Runtz gum diary by Original sensible seeds. I just transplantated the young one to its main container a couple of days ago and it looks happy. Amazon: http://url-9.cn/0y9i Amazon US: https://amzn.to/3e0P2bk Amazon CA: https://amzn.to/3bTnEJC Amazon discount Code: it10smokwiri XS1000 10% XSsmokwiri XS1500 8% it20smokwiri XS2000 5% it40smokwiri XS4000 5% ViparSpectra 8% DISCOUNT CODE on the viparspectra websites (.com/.eu) RUFFSELEKTAH

~ WEDDING CHEESECAKE FAST FLOWER by FastBuds ~ Well fam, here we go again with another epic strain from FastBuds Fast Flowering stable. After having such tremendous success growing their Gorilla Cookies Fast Flower outdoors last year, I've decided to run another of their fast flowering strains outdoors this year... Wedding Cheesecake Fast Flower! The best description of this awesome cultivar comes directly from my friends at FastBuds which is as follows: "A delight for the mind and body: Wedding Cheesecake FF (Fast-Flowering) is a delicious strain that offers XXL yields in a 7-8 weeks flowering cycle. This terpene powerhouse produces loads and loads of mouth-watering vanilla-creamy-cookie-scented terps with hints of citrus and cinnamon. In addition to its delicious aromas, this variety grows very well in both indoor and outdoor setups, yielding up to 650 g/m2 without extra maintenance, making it the ideal strain for beginners as it allows you to maximize yields while minimizing work. This super-fast feminized photoperiod version offers upbeat and energetic yet deeply relaxing effects that are perfect for consumers looking for a heavily focused, motivating, and creative high. It’s the ideal strain for those needing that extra energy boost to start a busy day on the right foot. Wedding Cheesecake FF boasts chunky, large-sized buds with a thick layer of silvery-white resin and bright orange hairs scattered all over: that just screams ‘quality’. The lime-green flowers sparkle with an array of hues ranging from dark to light green, to magenta and purple, and reek of a delicious aroma that’ll remind you of fresh store-bought cheesecake. This is an XXL hybrid that grows extremely tall in height, reaching up to 3m with one huge main cola and multiple long side branches that can withstand enormous yields of up to 650 g/m2 with ease. Wedding Cheesecake FF is extremely resilient to the elements and can be grown in almost every climate as long as you’ve got the space and basics covered, making her an excellent choice for those looking for large-scale harvests with a quick turnaround time without much effort." ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the Wedding Cheesecake FF indoors as our weather is still too cold to put her outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 30's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures stay above the mid 40's℉, at which point she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes, and then let the fun begin!🤪💚 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 6/18- Week 12 and the Wedding Cheesecake Fast Flower from FastBuds is on a mission! The amount of growth happening right now can only be described as explosive, with new shoots appearing and existing branches going crazy with growth! 6/20- Our summer is here and we're under an early heat wave this week with daytime temp's hitting the mid to upper 90's ℉ with heat indexes in the low 100's ℉... in short, IT'S FNG HOT!🔥🔥🔥 I'm watering the Wedding Cheesecake FF daily now with 5-7g of straight well water from the garden hose. I'm watering at sundown so that the water will have some time to soak down into the soil before the heat evaporates it. The coating of straw that I previously spread over the soil has helped a lot as well. 6/22- The weather continues to relentlessly bake everything outside... many thanks for a good A/C!❄️ The daily watering continues and I also went ahead and removed a bunch of foliage that was below the trellis net. 6/24- Today I top dressed the FastBuds Wedding Cheesecake FF with 2 cups each of Gaia Green 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 along with 1 cup of Down To Earth Bio-Fish 7-7-2 and 1/2g of Wiggle Worm castings. After top dressing and working the amendments in by hand I replaced the straw coating over the soil and watered them in with 5g of straight well water via garden hose as usual. There goes another week for the Wedding Cheesecake FF and it won't be long before she begins to show signs of pre-flowering! Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏

Final week. Shes been on ripen for 3 days what a beast

Prima settimana di fioritura... tutto procede come deve .. 💪 forza belle piantine mie regalatemi della Apple strudel buona ed efficace per la mia cura🙏✌️

the weather forecast says 2 weeks of rain, it will be a challenge to keep the humidity low in the house and of course in the growbox.

So clones are hopefully nearly ready to form roots to allow me to put into their final pots! The main I put into the garden has started thriving, I knew she would as the soil she was in is very dense and holds water for longer of which I hate so once it got to root out it started to grow immediately stronger and bigger even after the whole trim down!

Whats up everybody cheers to another week of growth for everyone! This week the ladies buds started showing signs of progress. You can see them produce more and more resin every day thanks to the cold weather its really easy to keep a pretty dry environment. Can’t wait to do my final defo next week! Until then stay green!

What up Fam, weekly updates on these lovely ladies. This week it's been warm and such a bad time for my AC to go out but overall temps been in the mid it's inside the tent and the plants seem to not mind at all. They're still getting fed 16oz daily. I'd say from the looks, maybe 2-3 more weeks until harvest. Happy Growing

Tag 25: Umgetopft in einen 15L Topf. Tag 27: getoppt bei 5 Nodien. Tag 30: Entlaubt (alle Sonnensegel am Hauptstamm entfernt) und mit LST angefangen.

По Моему уже Начела Моя Девочка Цветить.. Жду не Дождусь 🙂 А Так В общем Я правда Потресён её Выносливостью. Думаю Что Одна Из Самых Уникальных Стрейнав От @PyramidSeeds ❤️🌱

Week 3 begins for DS and MD ladies. All four are developing nice bud sites, but the plants have not stretched as much as I was expecting they would by now. Thank you to Kaoritracy from Mars-Hydro for the TSW2000 light, I am very happy with it's performance. Thanks for stopping by growfessors 👽🌳💚

Watering 4 Lt every 2 days, she is doing fine with frosty trichromes

Day 50: Girls are looking great! 💪 A couple of them are a little further along than the others. Pistils are starting to change colors. PPM's going in are higher than runoff PPM. No change in the PH. In at 6.5 and out at 6.5.... Still have some rust spots. Still thinking that I need to dial in my light distance/intensity. Day 51: Got one girl that the issue of rust spots is not going away. Not getting worse, but just will not leave. Other than that they are still bulking up and looking beautiful. Can't wait to start checking the tric's! Using AN Big Bud for a couple feeds and MOAB for a couple of feeds. Have been feeding every water as my output PPM's are less than what is going in. Will keep this cycle until needed to flush or an issue occurs.. Day 52: No new updates. They still look basically the same as 5 minutes ago when I checked em!! 😂😂 Day 53: Went ahead and ran 2 gallons of PH'd water through them. This rust spot issue is driving me crazy!!! Will just use PH'd water for a day or 2 and hope that it stops! Day 54: Well, no new spots that I see. Probably too early to tell, but I feel better about it :) Day 55: No new updates today. Watered with Recharge. Day 56: The girls look wonderful and smell the same. Gave them a good defoliation today as they were extremely bushy! Thanks, B for the pointers!! 👊

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Pretty resistant to wpm but still susceptible. I'd like to breed in more resistance but that may lower cbd content. So we will see what she taste like and go from there and

The tricombe production on this strain is ridiculous! It looks amazing under my microscope. The heads are mostly milky coloured so this may be finishing sooner than expected. The space in the tent is getting a bit tight so I'll be glad to have more room when this lady has done her thing.

This week was good..the ladies are in better health overall. Did some defoliating throughout the week and also did a flush 3 days ago with florakleen.gave em a light feeding today.Just finished setting the timer. Will be flipping them into flower tomorrow at 8 am ..will keep yall updated in my next upload..Happy growing 😎

Hi all. Welcome to this run withbthe Viparspectra XS1500 which i was kindly sent to try by their helpful rep Valerie. As I have a fairly good space to use for my main grow , it seemed an ideal time to explore a few options while I wait for space to appear following upcoming harvests. The opportunity hit at a good time and has now driven the future play time. lol The light is a full spectrum 150W( at the socket) , Dimmable and very well made unit. As summer is here now , my concerns of more heat being an issue have stopped me from adding my other light so the smaller 2ftx2ft area covered by the XS1500 is a good option , The heatsink is built into the case design with a finned top to dissipate the heat so no noisy fans. Switching it on to full power was a nice surprise as the footprint was way wider than I had expected and the actual coverage is even better for my Nursery to harvest plan.... I am growing autos perpetually at present and have been able to throughput the plants with just 2 lights and using the overlaps at the edges to bring seedlings along to veg/flowering, as harvesting is finishing. The timing had been working well but the plants were getting smaller towards the last runs . I gave it some thought and Rh % came to mind. With the perpetual runs not having a higher rh in their veg periods due to other plants needing a lower Rh% in flower , the vapour pressure deficit (vpd) was not within veg periods healthier range. This current run has exploded and filled my normal space very quickly which in turn means I cannot use the same principle as the last perpetual run of bringing the next ones along ready for the exchanges. The XS1500 takes care of this issue with it being perfect for an initial nursery light that is easily covering all the new seedlings but is also able to cover my experimental "5 plant 1 Pot" attempt. I have placed 5 of my own autob seeds from a previous seeding in a single 60 L pot and intend to strip them to their 4th nodes and only allow 2 mains per plant to develop and flower. Inam hoping to have 10 mains growing in it that will be under the xs1500 solely as the other plants outgrow the lights footprint and space they are in. They will go into the main grow space once able so i can really see how well this new light can flower with the 10 mains to fill the space. Until that point , I will diary as we go and see what we can achieve.

Plants have been scroged and are almost covering the hole net , knowing that they are going to strech for the first three weeks of flower, I'll be switching lights to a 12/12 cycle on the upcoming days . Happy growing y'all !

main stem of the biggest plant is chopped by the LST wire when i was outside.