Video fast buds

I’m happy to have had a 1st harvest on GD as when I started I got locked up (fdp) but Im happy with the honey cream and I’ve learned so much this time too so I should be able to do better next time as I noticed on my other plants the water was so dry down the bottom I pruned the roots so I’ll take time to water correctly! Happy growing people!

Day 5 of 12/12 23rd January

I'm back for another update this week! It hasn't been a very busy week this week, the veg area is vegging and the flower area is on its last week before harvest. I've been taking very small cuttings (about .1 gram) and scoping the trikes using a 45x desktop microscope. Ethos: Lilac Diesel #22 (x) Grandpa's Cookies #7- This seedling is still doing well and branching out keeping a "v" shaped branch formation, thinner long leaves and decently far spaced nodes. It is still the tallest plant in the whole garden now standing at 19 inches tall. It's top four branches are beginning to develop smaller branches from them. HSO/ Giest Grow: Tow Truck- Unfortunately the Tow Truck showed signs of being a male. Last week I had assumed it was a male. But this week I was able to call it for certain. I don't have the space to keep any males, so I went ahead and cut it down. This diary will now be for the Ethos Seedling! It is feminized so it will surely go to the flower room with the Raspberry Ripple plants it shares a tent with. Raspberry Ripple Clones (#1 and #2)- These veg clones are still spreading out with branching decently. The #2 Phenos hit 12 inches in height and received their topping. So now all plants in the clone tent have been topped once. Flower Tent (Raspberry Ripple #1 and #2)- It is currently day 67 Flower, Under the HLG Blackbird. I went ahead and dimmed it down one level. I let my buddy use my PAR meter for a few days. But I'd assume it's probably about 450-700 PPFD on most top sites. I've assessed the trichomes today and last week. Most are getting cloudy but I'm gonna wait just a few more days, to push into some amber coverage. A lot of the #2 pheno top sites are now leaning over and being fully supported by the trellis. The little branches just couldn't support the massive flowers it grew. One of the #2 plants is still holding strong and standing tall. But 2/3 are pretty much fully supported by the trellis. The number one phenos are once again super thick stalked, with thick branches. One of the #1 plants, looks like it completely bottomed out this week. Most of its leaves are completely faded. The other plant of the #1 Phenos is much more bright and vibrant. There are still some straggling white pistil hairs left on the #1s but they are still changing color by the day. Pushing into day 70 or 71 will probably be perfect harvest time! Thank you for checking in on my grow diary! Until next week! Happy growing and Happy Living! -Starfish

Hello all hope you friends and pets are staying cool. Cassie it is around 100 degree lately and plants and herbs are dying and drying out😢. I’m luck my tree are doing very well. I just give them a dose of 1,3,3 of organic tea with good old fashion unsulpher molasses water. The buds are coming out thick and it smell good. Lucky in my state it legalized for cultivation. Hopefully it rain this week as I’ve got a vegetable garden. The lawns are dried up and droughts in many places. Sad time we live me. Everything is so expensive thst why I’ve stated a vegetable 🥦 food is expensive.

Englischversion below Deutsch: Tag 43 Veg: Heute wurden die Ladies mit je ca. 9 Litern PH6.3 Wasser mit 1ml/L CalMag. Zusätzlich wurden präventiv Nemathoden gegeben. Seit dem Letzen Update vor 4 Tagen. haben 2/3 Ladies den Rand des Topfes erreicht. Etwas LST rundet den heutigen Tag Ab. Es wird nu auf die 3te Pflanze gewartet - Danach wird der vertikale wuchs angestrebt. Im großem Zelt habe ich ein Abflusssystem eingebaut um das Potential für Trauermücken gering zu halten. Das Wasser fließt durch Löcher in den Auffangschalen in eine schräge Rinne runter. Diese entleert sich durch den Boden mit 2 Silikonschläuchen. Ja, dazu habe ich das Zelt angebohrt - aber besser als stehendes Wasser oder händischen Abpumpen. Da ich CO2 nutze habe ich mich für ein geschlossenes Lüftungssystem entschieden. Die Luft wird durch den Luftentfeuchter gezogen und zurück ins Zelt geleitet. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 43 – Vegetative Phase: Today, each plant received approximately 9 liters of water adjusted to pH 6.3 and supplemented with 1 ml/L Cal-Mag. In addition, nematodes were applied as a preventive measure. Since the last update four days ago, two out of three plants have reached the edge of the pot. Some additional LST completed today’s work. We are now waiting for the third plant to catch up — after that, vertical growth will be encouraged. In the large tent, a drainage system has been installed to reduce the risk of fungus gnats. Water flows through holes in the drip trays into a sloped channel, which then drains out of the tent through two silicone hoses installed through the floor. Yes, the tent was drilled for this modification — but it is preferable to standing water or manual pumping. Since CO₂ is being used, a closed ventilation system was chosen. Air is drawn through the dehumidifier and then recirculated back into the tent.

The girls are doing well, more ingredients from advanced nutrients will be added during the week, hopefully everything will go as planned

The first plant has been partially harvested.

Mr-Jones Shockwave F2 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹WEEKLY GOALS🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 🌞Environment - 75/80℉ and 45/50% Humidity 💧 Feeding - Using "Super Coco" amended soil. compost teas, Dechlorinated H20 PH/6.5 Fish Fertilizer, Started feeding the plants because they are only in 1-gallon pots. 🍃Training / towards the end of the week will be Schwazzing the plants, along with cleaning out the bottoms,. 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between product each month for Integrated Pest Management. 💡Mars Hydro FC 4800 / 480W Led Grow Light - "Instagram: MarsHydro_Aliexpress"💡 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 Rambling - These ladies are going great, maybe second-guessing myself but only using 1-gallon pots not sure the nutrients in the Super Coco will carry the plants, going to be Top Dressing with Roots Organics Bloom. 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 ▶️Sunday 11.29.20 / Top Dressed with Roots Organics Bloom, continuing to water with Dechlorinated H20 PH/6.5, going to be making a super tea after I finish Schwazzing the plants, normally I grow photos in 5 to 7-gallon pots. The New Mars Hydro light is kicking ass! ▶️Monday 11.30.20 / Normal feeding tonight, the ladies are just doing great! ▶️Tuesday 12.01.20 / Normal feeding tonight, the ladies are just doing great! ▶️Wednesday 12.02.20 / Conducted heavy defoliation, Schwazzing tonight, they look great, top dressed with roots organic uprising bloom, and decided to move along with light BioBiz nutrient regiment, growing these gals in 1-gallon pots, the soil nutrients will be depleted. ▶️Thursday 12.03.20 / The ladies have responded well to the defoliation and the started nutrient regiment. I set the 💡Mars Hydro FC 4800 / 480W Led Grow Light to 75% time to watch these ladies just blow up! Will be doing an IPM treatment Saturday morning before lights out. ▶️Friday 12.04.20 / Continuing feeding light BioBiz daily with Weekly top dressing of Roots Organics, the ladies are just thriving! ▶️Saturday 12.05.20 / Plants are doing great after the heavy defoliation, continuing to feed with Bio-Biz daily. 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

23.09.23- 85 день жизни . Глобальных изменений не происходит , шишки продолжают толстеть и оплакать глаз . Это самое большое растение из тех , которые мне доводилось растить ! На данном этапе ее рост около 180-185. Сегодня я подвязал и распределил все толстые ветки под лампы , из-за своих размеров они прогибаются под своим весом . Теперь она получает все 300 w 28.09.23- 90 дней от прорастания ! Изменения идут медленно , цветы растут а листья желтеют . Думаю еще 2 недели и финишь ! Сейчас она очень огромная , а ее цветы размером с бутылку ✨🍁

We are hitting week 4 now! Plant looks strong, has a nice green look overall and she seems to like her new home! I give her every 4 days ph regulated water. 1liter from the bottom, about 1,5l from above. I will give the plant another week unter the trellis to make sure the side branches catch up. Week 4 was pretty straightforward, holding the branches under the trellis and cutting some fan leafs that giving shadow to the lower branches. At end of week 4 there are first signs of flowering and she gets thirstier over the week. Giving her about 1L from bottom and 1,5L from above every two days at the moment. At first sign of flowering I have turned the led to 100% (100W) I’m really happy with my first try in coco, the plant looks healthy with a nice green color overall. I’m using ph regulated water between 6-6,3 with biobizz nutrients.

Fue un ciclo interesante. Sabía que era poco espacio, pero necesitaba armar esta idea con un poco más de prolijidad. Voy a tener que armar uno más grande, pero entre tanto, los resultados de este indoor me han sorprendido. Las variedades ayudaron mucho también. Eran muy productoras ambas, principalmente la polaris. A la planta grande ya le había cortado la rama grande que invadía a la polaris. Por eso parece mas chica al final. Ya tengo enraizando las canpat one, pero aún no están listas. Espero pronto arrancar con el próximo proyecto.

Ja was soll ich dazu sagen es läuft alles perfekt fast zu perfekt sodass mir so langsam der Platz nach oben ausgeht damit hätte ich nicht gerechnet ich hoffe die Pflanze kommt jetzt langsam mal zum Schluss alle 2 Tage werden nun 30 l addback hinzugefügt ec ist derzeit bei 1,42 und ph zwischen 5,9-6,1 die Blüten schwellen immer weiter an gedüngt wird mit CANNA Aqua. Als Start gibt es Osmose Wasser dann wird erhöht mit calmag bis 0,5 ec Rest dann mit Bloom und organischen Zusätzen von CANNA boost , rhizotonic, cannazym

8. Woche Sticky Broccoli Auto von Zamnesia hat die Strapazen vom Mainlining Prozess hinter sich gelassen und konzentriert sich nun auf die Ausbildung der Blüten. Mir gefällt die Sorte wirklich sehr gut bis jetzt, stress steckt sie gut weg, arbeitet Fleißig und Produktiv. Wenn sie mir auch noch von der Wirkung gefällt, werde ich sie wohl auch in Zukunft nochmal ausprobieren und dann normal wachsen lassen 😊 Leider habe ich paar Probleme mit Mg durch mein Leitungswasser, Bittersalz hat sie schon bekommen 🙄

Everything’s fine so far. The plant is looking great and takes up the space it gets. Stretch is just perfect and very manageable.

Two plants are on the 29th day of flowering and the other two are on the 22nd. I started giving pk 13/14 to plants that entered their 5th week.