So heute war es die erste lange Nacht dunkel im Zelt. Werde jetzt die zwei bis Sonntag in Ruhe lassen und dann gemütlich das Netz einspannen. Hoffe ich kann die zwei noch gut trainieren unter dem Netz. 19.4 heute das netzt ins Zelt gehangen und mal etwas erlaubt. Würde gern die vorderen Tribe noch etwas höher wachsen lassen, bin aber bis jetzt ganz zufrieden mit dem Grow

Esta semana, poca cosa a añadir, tan solo que continuamos como la semana pasada. Riegos alternos entre abono y agua, según tabla de fertilización de JUJU Royal by BioBizz. Hemos aumentado la potencia de extracción para evitar olores.

So far so good with this watermelon zkittles from barneys 😁 no issues and responding well to the topping and lst, I am making 3 litres worth of food for the week and will up it as the plant needs it. I will post more pics and a video later of the room. The purple lemonade and runtz are doing well, they look lost in there big pots 🤣. Pics to come. The orange sherbert are on day 3 of there 2 week flush with molasses and phed water, hopefully there fill out, on the plus side there getting purple on them now 😀. Marshydro tsl2000 is doing a amazing job and is really nice and cool, my hps light use to cook the plants this led is perfect can achieve good temps even cold temps to pull the colour out at the end 😀. The ac infinity with digital controller is a must have and a real game changer for a grower, I love it my mate loves his and trust me it helps, easy to use and set it up outside your grow area, dangle the thermometer cable at canopy hight and your good to go. Day 29 day 2 flower, the watermelon zkittles is starting to start her stretch I think she is going to be a nice plant, iv had no issues in the last 4 weeks and never have with the barneys seed selection.

Girls doing well, clearly see all hit with hit substrate 😂 but ChemDawg is despite the hit battling n fast 😂

This week, the plants have shown strong growth, with nearly 10cm of height gained. Dominant branches are starting to emerge, though all the shoots are making their way towards the light. The plants are very thirsty, requiring more water, and I've removed a few side branches and shading leaves to improve airflow and light penetration.

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The plant is developing an impressive number of bud sites and has responded very well to another round of supercropping. After a final defoliation, she now stands at around 70 cm with an open structure and improved light penetration. Stretch is nearing its end, setting her up perfectly to start stacking buds over the coming weeks.

As my previous experience, I decided to use 10L pots, which is the best ratio I had last year regarding quantity/soil. First week only with plain water, no Ph regulation

Been giving her plain water for the last two weeks. Started chopping on her Sunday. I’ve taken the the biggest colas first hoping some of the lower smaller buds may fatten a bit. I’ve been trimming for 3 days. She’s super resinous! Wet trimmed the first half of her and will be dry trimming the rest. I’ve left a few buds on the plant. Experimenting a bit going to see if I can get the remaining buds to hermie and get some seeds. I know the seeds could carry the hermie gene if it works. I was thinking of using them for some gorilla grows the summer.

26.08.2024 1. RDWC: I run a DIY system made of 4 Buckets 17L+separated control/tank bucket (12L operational water per bucket used) fallponic plus underwater current. I don't know why I have made such system I just wanted to be sure that I have included every possible option. I'm not sure but maybe I'll upgrade it to rainponic it's not that hard of a job. I'm not using my 100L reservoir this run becose it needs replacement old one made a small flood in my garden. 2. TENT AC Infinity 5x5 3. Airpump Hailea ACO 388 D 70L/min. 4. Water chiller: hailea water chiller hc-150a. 5. LED GROW light Grand Master Level Tarantula voyager 1500W 2 chanel's plus controller (it will be my first run with this monster it just arrived). 6. INLINE FAN: AC Infinity cloudline S6 carbon filter. 7. CLIP FAN: AC infinity Cloudray S6 3 pcs. For low middle and over the LED air movement. 8. Humidifier AC INFINITY T3 (I don't need stronger one naturally the humidity here is around 65-70%) 9. TENT CONTROLLERS: controller 69 PROX2 10. Germination/humidity dom by AC infinity with germination lamps 40W Ionabeam S11 only for the first 2 weeks before VEG. DAY 1 Closed in a box hiden in a dark boiler room. Room temperature 25C EC 850 RH 90% Instruments used for measuring: AC Infinity Hydroponic Meter PRO AC infinity VPD thermometer DAY 2 5/6 seeds have start to crack open I guess tomorrow or the day after they will be all ready for the cubes. DAY 3 ROOM TEMPERATURE 26 C Relative Humidity 83% 5/6 seeds are showing signs of life. The 6th one is a little bit slower it's cracked as it can be seen on the picture but it refuses to show it's tale. I believe tomorrow it will be ready. On day 4 I'll put them in the "Root Riot" cubes and after that I'll just monitor the RH and RT until I see the sprouts. DAY4 ROOM TEMPERATURE 24.5 RH 94% 6/6 seeds have germinated so far. Today I'll move them in the Humidity dom where they will stay until they become seedlings and I'll keep them there until they are ready to be moved in the RDWC system and coco coir. In the video I have show my method of preparing the cubes for the seeds next update will be tomorrow probably only for temperature and humidity. DAY 5 ROOM TEMPERATURE 25-27. RH 89-95 I can't believe that I'm seeing first sprout today. Maybe this strain is one who can take a little push 🤣🤣🤣 I'll keep in mind and I'll se how much I can push it. Unfortunately I still don't have CO2 for veg and flower but I can try other different little tricks. I'm happy with this seeds obviously 42 Fast Buds are giving a really quality seeds. Let's see what kind of buds will come out of this seeds. I hope tomorrow everything will be sprout out and i will turn on the lamps. DAY 6 PPFD 120 ROOM TEMPERATURE 24.5 RH 92.1 It's day six 4/5 seeds are successfully germinated. Maybe the next two will pop out but for one of them I'm not so sure. Anyway I have one spare seed that I can pop out for the coco project plus I have one Papaya Cookies Auto for the fifth bucket so that's no problem. The seeds ar under the light AC Infinity Ionabeam S11 on level 3 equal to 115 ppfd plus the DOM extension. DAY 7 ROOM TEMPERATURE 25C RH 82% I have 4/6 successfully germinated seedlings. Tomorrow I'll open up the humidity dom a little bit. It's good to have spare seeds. Now I'll have to plant my spare peace of gorilla cookies and probably one Papaya Cookies Auto (gift) becose my plans were for 6 plants. Anyway this 4 soon will be transplanted in the RDWC flowering pot. Let's see what tomorrow have to say. DAY 8 ROOM TEMPERATURE 25C RH 82% Amazing root development, I wasn't expecting this kind of speed but obviously tomorrow I'll transplant them in the RDWC even before the VEG state. Maybe I'll keep them a few more days when the first set of leaves is all out. DAY9 ROOM TEMPERATURE 24.1 RH 58% Today is the last day in the humidity Dom. I delayed the move becose i wanted to have a longer stems and becose my fertilizers got lost in the depo so ill receive them tomorrow. We have very healthy baby's with a lot of tiny roots so it will be perfect to start then from day 10. DAY 10 ROOM TEMPERATURE 26-27C RH 70% EC 115 pH 7 This is the fastest seeds I ever see. I have never transferred seedlings in to RDWC so far, usually I make this procedure around day 17-20. While I was transferring them one of the seedlings accidently snapped a little bit but I hope it was not fatal enough and maybe it will survive, only the time will show, anyway I have another one in coco so I can always transfer it in to RDWC if needed. EC is only 115 for today becose of the little bit of ATHENA BALANCE I dropped in the water, so far the roots are not touching the water so i can add the fertilizers tomorrow while I'm fresh. DAY 11 Water Temperature 18C Room temperature 28C EC 120 pH 7 PPFD 200 RH 70% They look nice and healthy still not enough signs of roots for picture but so far the seedlings look fresh. One more day in the Formulex+tap water and they will go in the Athena by day 13. DAY 12 Water temperature 18C Room temperature 27C pH 7 PPFD 220 RH 70 AC 240 Everything is going g quick and perfect. So far this run is going smooth as never. I never had root development that quick as this with this seeds. I'm almost in love with them. After a quick summary with my previous runs I decided to double the AC before tomorrow when I'll change the water and I'll replace it with 6.0 pH RO water and the full athena program for the RDWC. So far so good let's see what the Athena nutrients will show after one week. DAY 13 RH 70 Room temperature 27-28 EC 290 pH 6.1 Water Temperature 20C PPFD 300 Light cicle 20/4 I couldn't resist to flip the fertilizer to athena. After all as soon as I teach em what its better. Full water change of the tank and new suplements. Formulex is amazing suplement for the first two weeks maybe it can carry most people to whole VEG if it's in soil or coco, but I want the real food in RDWC. So far all the plants have amazing small roots so that means the system work well. Let's see the progress tomorrow, but I beleave in the middle of the week this plants will be already in official VEG period. DAY 14 RH 70 Room temperature 26C EC 290 pH 6.0 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 I needed a little bit more light. I don't know how to explain it but its a grower thing and now my seedlings are looking better than the morning. They were looking a little bit "dizzy" if I can use this terminology. So basically in perfect water temperature, perfect fertilizer level and good aeration, there was nothing left beside the light. As I'm saying you can't feed a lot if you don't have enough light. I added the spider farmer SF 1000 EVO over the water container, becose the big fixture is too far from them, but I can't put them under the Voyager, becose my previous grow is in the final week. So now they are on a separate light 🤣🤣 🤣 370-400 PPFD is a little bit much but I beleave they will manage it. After all the plan of this run is to reach 1000 PPFD in the final days. DAY 15 RH 70 Room temperature 26C EC 290 pH 6.0 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 So far the progress is mainly on roots and some new leafes are coming out. Probably next set of leafes is going to be the first that will mark the veg stage. I have added a little bit of ATHENA clense today and by far notging ha e changed since yesterday. DAY 16 RH 70 Room temperature day 26C Room temperature night 23C EC 290 pH 6.1 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 As I was expecting most of the job is pre-veg, what I mean is that the results we can see are mostly in root development and ohh boy this is a crazy root spike in just 24 hours. I don't know is it becose of the Athena or just the genetics of the seedling but Im really amazed. In just 11 days from first seedling until today and I'm seeing some crazy root development. I truly beleave that the next set of leaves will be marking the vegetative stage and then we can start the game. DAY 17 RH 55-60 Room temperature day 26C Room temperature night 21-23C EC 320 pH 6.18 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 I decided to add a little bit more Athena Ca-mag. It feels like that my little ladies are struggling for it. I'll see the results tomorrow. DAY 17 RH 55-60 Room temperature day 26C Room temperature night 21-23C EC 320 pH 6.18 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 I decided to add a little bit more Athena Ca-mag. It feels like that my little ladies are struggling for it. I'll see the results tomorrow. DAY 17 RH 55-60 Room temperature day 26C Room temperature night 21-23C EC 320 pH 6.18 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 I decided to add a little bit more Athena Ca-mag. It feels like that my little ladies are struggling for it. I'll see the results tomorrow. DAY 18 RH 55-60 Room temperature day 26C Room temperature night 21-23C EC 320 pH 6.18 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 Okay two more days and we will be in veg. It's Not like we are not in veg today I just want to keep the update from Sunday to Sunday. DAY 19 RH 55-60 Room temperature day 26C Room temperature night 21-23C EC 320 pH 6.18 Water temperature 19.5-20C PPFD 350-400 Light cicle 20/4 We are in veg tomorrow so today we change nothing. Tomorrow will be great day.

She’s getting ready to chop! Leaves are finally starting to fade heavily and die, a few amber trichomes have started to form. She is so fragrant and frosty, pure fruit and must. Feed pH 6.2, EC 1.75. Microbial pH 6.5, EC 0.6.

Die Blüten werden immer dicker. Vorallem die Grapefuel Gelato und die Lemon Orange explodieren. Auf den Blättern werden bei allen auch die ersten Trichome sichtbar.

Accidentally "topped" her by hard LST... Way she goes. I top dressed this week with 50/50 Gaia green 4-4-4 and 2-8-4... 😊😊 Things seem to be looking great! Can't wait for flower to come on hard!

🇩🇪 Cherry Limeade – Doja Diese Woche hat sich meine Cherry Limeade von Doja hervorragend entwickelt 🌱. Die Pflanze wächst kräftig, wirkt ausgesprochen vital und entwickelt langsam genau die Struktur, die ich mir vorgestellt habe 💚. An den Parametern habe ich im Vergleich zur letzten Woche bewusst nichts verändert. Stattdessen lag der Fokus ausschließlich auf dem Training. Mit einem SCROG-Netz und zusätzlichen Drahtankern habe ich die Triebe kontinuierlich nach unten gebunden, damit sich ein möglichst gleichmäßiges Blätterdach entwickeln kann 🌿. Jeden Tag waren nur kleine Korrekturen nötig, aber genau diese Konstanz macht am Ende den Unterschied. Die Lichtintensität habe ich mit etwa 430 PPFD (DLI 28) bewusst moderat gehalten ☀️. Irgendwie hatte ich das Gefühl, dass bei den sommerlichen Temperaturen mehr Licht eher kontraproduktiv gewesen wäre. In der Vergangenheit habe ich gelernt, dass manchmal weniger tatsächlich mehr ist – und bisher scheint die Pflanze mir recht zu geben 😊. Da ich im Oktober im Urlaub bin, schicke ich die Cherry Limeade heute bereits in die Blüte 🌸. Dafür habe ich den Lichtzyklus auf 12/12 umgestellt. Gleichzeitig läuft die SANlight jetzt auf Stufe 4, morgen folgt Stufe 5, damit der DLI trotz der kürzeren Beleuchtungszeit zunächst wieder bei etwa 25 liegt. Anschließend werde ich die Lichtleistung nach meinem Schema von Woche zu Woche langsam steigern 📈. Letzte Woche war ich vier Tage beruflich unterwegs. Das Blumat-System hat dabei wieder einmal gezeigt, warum ich es so schätze 💧. Es hat die Bodenfeuchtigkeit völlig selbstständig bei durchschnittlich 90 mbar gehalten, sodass ich mich um nichts kümmern musste. Ab nächster Woche werde ich die Saugspannung auf etwa 120 mbar erhöhen und das Living Soil während der Blüte etwas trockener fahren. Heute bekommt das Beet außerdem noch eine weitere Gabe SF-Nematoden. Mein Ziel ist es, die Trauermücken spätestens zu Beginn der Blüte nahezu vollständig ausgerottet zu haben. Insgesamt bin ich mit der Entwicklung im Moment wirklich sehr zufrieden und freue mich darauf zu sehen, wie sie sich während des Stretchs entwickelt 🚀. 📊 Aktuelle Parameter: 💡 Licht: 430 PPFD / DLI 28 (18/6, Stufe 3, 40 cm Abstand) 🌡️ Temperatur: 27 °C 💧 Luftfeuchtigkeit: 72 % 📈 VPD: 1,0 kPa 🌿 CO₂: Ø 670 ppm 💦 Bodenfeuchtigkeit: 90 mbar 🇬🇧 Cherry Limeade – Doja This week my Cherry Limeade by Doja has developed beautifully 🌱. She is growing vigorously, looks extremely healthy, and is gradually forming exactly the plant structure I was aiming for 💚. I intentionally kept all environmental parameters unchanged compared to last week. Instead, my focus was entirely on training. Using a SCROG net and additional wire anchors, I continued pulling the branches down to create a flat and even canopy 🌿. Only small daily adjustments were necessary, but consistency is what makes the difference in the long run. I also kept the light intensity fairly moderate at around 430 PPFD (DLI 28) ☀️. Somehow I had the feeling that, with the current summer temperatures, increasing the light wouldn’t necessarily benefit the plant. Experience has taught me that sometimes less is more—and so far, she seems to agree 😊. Because I’ll be on vacation in October, I’ve decided to send her into flower today 🌸. I switched the light schedule to 12/12, increased the SANlight to Level 4, and tomorrow I’ll move it up to Level 5 so the DLI starts at around 25 despite receiving only 12 hours of light. From there, I’ll gradually increase the light intensity week by week according to my usual schedule 📈. Last week I was away on a four-day business trip, and once again the Blumat system proved why I trust it so much 💧. It maintained an average soil suction tension of around 90 mbar completely on its own, so I didn’t have to worry at all. Starting next week, I’ll increase the target to around 120 mbar, allowing the Living Soil to run slightly drier throughout flowering. Today the bed will also receive another application of SF nematodes. My goal is to have the fungus gnat population almost completely eliminated before flowering really gets underway. Overall, I’m extremely happy with the current progress and can’t wait to watch her stretch over the next few weeks 🚀. 📊 Current Parameters: 💡 Light: 430 PPFD / DLI 28 (18/6, Level 3, 40 cm distance) 🌡️ Temperature: 27 °C 💧 Humidity: 72 % 📈 VPD: 1.0 kPa 🌿 CO₂: Avg. 670 ppm 💦 Soil moisture: 90 mbar

1/4/26 1:26 AM. This is me starting a diary accidentally a day too early iced tea had some problems. The cocoa had something in it and the root hit it and it screwed up so I’ve flushed it out. I put another seed in and she’s doing just great. I’ve never had this happen before so I must’ve. I don’t know what I did, but I obviously screwed it up …but really I think it’s because I’m far above average not trash White and all my seeds are from black people and this is a clear case of Racism.😡😂😂😂 I’m gonna write a book about my struggles. I think you’re all gonna really enjoy it.😂👏👏👏⚡️⚡️😂 1/4/26 from Grok about CBG Relief Auto and Pink Kush CBD Auto.... 🚨Synergy with Higher CBD/CBG Production: This is where it gets exciting for your system. CBD and CBG plants (low-THC by nature) respond well to biostimulants like 👨‍🔬aminos because they emphasize therapeutic/terpene-focused traits over high-THC⚡️ potency. Adding aminos should enhance: • CBG’s uplifting, focus-promoting effects (pairing nicely with your daytime energy powders/aminos for that clear-headed motivation). • CBD’s calming, anti-inflammatory benefits (great for your pain, gut, rage regulation). • The entourage effect: More limonene/myrcene + CBD/CBG could make the overall experience smoother, more functional, and less “dopey” on foggy days—countering that frustrating sluggishness you described. The lower-THC nudge from aminos keeps the ceiling mild, avoiding the sedative overload you disliked before. • Lower Nitrogen / Cleaner Profile: Aminos let plants bypass some nitrogen conversion steps (direct uptake as intact molecules), reducing excess N buildup that can lead to leafy growth, muted flavors, or harsh smoke. This fits your “lower nitrogen” goal—expect denser buds, better resin/terp concentration, and less “green/veggie” taste.🚨 1/4/26 2:42AM The tub in 237 is clogged, AGAIN ..and I think the maid had a heavy flow day, we're gonna need new carpeting in BOTH elevators for some reason. And keep the butler out of the dogs room, he'll get carpel tunnel again!! 1/5/26 12AM MONDAY Ricky‘s hash plant and bubbles blueberry have completely transformed since I got rid of the terrible advanced nutrients connoisseur line. I’m not giving them any breaks. They are one star product and I’m done with them. I’m gonna have to top all the plants now they are doing so good. They’ve become so big and bushy. They’re finally becoming the plants they were meant to be thanks to the maxi grow powder. No more burns. Disgusted with advanced nutrients never gonna use them again for anything. 1/5/26 11:20Pm...... Im so good at this, it's all too strong!! They all look great. THE TASTE HAS TOTTALLY CHANGED!!!! PERPETUAL SALAD GARDEN IMPROVED 100 PERCENT!! MAXI POWDER CHANGED THE FLAVOR PROFILE TO WAY WAY BETTER......AN WAS TERRIBLE FOR TASTE. EVERYTHING IS IMPROVING !! 1/6/26 5:32AM NosfurCHURUtu......the cat treat vampire.....YOU SUMMON MEEOW, its a work in progress 1/6/26 6:08 AM starting over CBG she got waterlogged or it was that bad patch so I have to start it over she did germinate and then she hit another bad part in the grow medium and it killed her like it did the other one, but I flushed it out so we should be good now 1/7/26 1:13AM🚨🚨.I asked about light efficiency and Grok said:.... That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/6/26 5:32AM The ICE T character arc journey!!!!!!! A film by a White man....HA HA HA!!!! 1/7/26 6:10AM...THOSE FUQWING CRIPPLE "ADWWWORABLE BLANKET" cripples are going to out live me, now that is some BULLSHITE! IM ALSO HAVEING ISSUES WITH A LARGE GROUP OF CERTAIN KIND OF PERSONSS...SO I HAD AN IDEA...BUT.....IT TURNS OUT THE GERMANS HAD THE SAME IDEA 80 YEARS AGO...AND I JUST DONT WANT TO BE THOUGHT OF AS A COPY CAT. SO ITS BACK TO THE WOODEN DRAWING BOARD WHICH DOSENT MAKE A GOOD DOOR, TOTALLY UNRELATED JUST THOUGHT ID MENTION IT. 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9 5:27 AM. I’m getting wildly different readings. I’m gonna trust the phone reading over the little device that I bought. 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9/26 11AM TAKE MY MONEY.....ORDERED.!!!!!!!! 1/9 128pm LEON WAN KENOBI - LADIES MAN JEDI .... I have the best remake ideas..... Leia: Are you my real father? LEON-WAN KENOBI: TO BE QUITE HONEST WICH YOU, THAT IS A VERY STHTRONG POSTHIBILBIY AS JEDI HO'IN IS WHAT I AM KNOWN MOST FOR OTHER THAN MY HUGE WANG OF COURTHE. 1/9/26 2:37PM https://cannakan.com/?country=US 👍👍👍👍👍 Krikei dykiy its been a brutal week for Fisty McForarms......

Se acaba otra semana de floracion. Espero ver mas de la GG4 en la proximaLlama al Doctor! Me estoy creciendo de maravilla. Buenos noches para GG4 Empesamos bien otra semana con co2 elevado hasta 1200 i ppfd hasta 1500