3 auto 3 photo in vega in 2/2. Co2-1200 ppfd 1200+ All lights on Thanks to everyone who answered my question

old leaves turning yellow and drop

First BlackMuffin came doown. day 51. The nostrills filled with flavor. Na sure if i am catching a hint of mint aswell. drying. And can't wait to smash these nugs. By far the biggest nugs i've grown. Still a newbie though😂. Thanks fr stopping by cheers

Muy buenas familia damos cimiento a la 3° semana no es por que sean mías pero estas muy lindas 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣pues na familia contarles q después del trasplante le e regado con rootfast y en el siguiente riego sólo agua con un pH 6 con el humidificador estoy entre los 70 y 75% de humedad ahora como todavía esta un poco frío donde vivo la temperatura ronda entre 20 y 21° c y pues nada familia muy contento jeje en este iré subiendo más fotos y más videos de las hojas tallos y de todo para que lo vean mejor y me puedan ayudar con consejos y tips para mejorar en cada cultivo muchas gracias por sus visitas familia un abrazo muy fuerte nos vemos la semana que viene buenos humos paz familia

Que pasa familia, vamos con la cuarta semana de vida de estas F.U.H. feminizadas de Seedstockers. Vamos al lío, las plantas se trasplantaron a macetas de 7 litros. El ph se controla en 6.5, la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 70%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 20h de luz, el foco está al 50% de potencia. Me gustaría estar más encima este cultivo pero la salud me está impidiendo un poco este 100% con el proyecto. Con suerte la semana que viene andaré mejor. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Day 31 (from sprout): Upon my return, I found that the plants were underwatered given they are in living soil this was especially bad. The first thing I did was to defoliate and to install a new trellis net. Sadly I was tired and couldn’t reach / see my plants well and ended up cutting off two valid branches from the gorilla skittlez

Good. Simple.

Hallo und herzlich willkommen zu meinem Growbericht Outdoor 2025 mit den Sorten Power Flower Feminized, Royal Medic Feminized und Special Kush #1 Feminized, alle 3 von Royal Queen Seeds. Es ist das erste Mal, das ich Töpfe für den Outdoor grow verwende, bisher waren alle Gorilla grows und direkt in die Erde gepflanzt. Die URL der Power Flower Feminized: https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/feminisierte-hanfsamen/120-power-flower.html Die URL der Royal Medic Feminized: https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/cbd-samen/148-royal-medic.html Die URL der Special Kush #1 Feminized: https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/feminisierte-hanfsamen/138-special-kush-1.html Die Planung für den Grow ist, die Samen in easyplug Anzuchtwürfeln keimen zu lassen und danach in 0,6L und 2,2L Plastiktöpfen, dann letztlich in die neuen komplett doppellagigen ROOTIES 15 Liter Wide Version Stofftöpfe umzutopfen. Sobald die Witterung es zuläßt, sollen die Pflanzen an die frische Luft. Es ist schon eine Weile her, das der Grow losging, die Bilder sind jetzt aktuell. Tag 197: Die drei Großen geniesen die letzten Sommertage an der Sonne bei nahezu Windstille. Der abgebrochene Ast wächst offensichtlich gut wieder an, keine welken Blätter vorhanden. Mit dem Höhenwachstum ist langsam Schluß, die drei Ladys konzentrieren sich auf ihre Blüten. Tag 200: Seit gestern Mittag sind die drei Grazien wieder im Trockenen untergebracht, seitdem hat es 40 Liter/m² geregnet und es regnet weiter. Und einen Temperatursturz von Samstag mit 29°C auf Montag mit 13°C hat es gegeben. Wenn's dir gefallen hat, schau wieder vorbei ✌️😎

DAY 4 In flowering for This big bushy pheno gelato 41 Feed compost tea & SST tea Only no bottles no Nutes

01/24 - She ran great - Hit a hiccup with the mother and lost her right after the last set of clones where plucked - Human errors prevented the plant from reaching full potential but did produce very big Colas and final product was dense sticky nuggs with a wonderful terpene profile. She (clones) was awesome to run and will definitely be running soon and will be in rotation. 01/26 - The ladies locked up pretty nicely - Dense even 3.5G nugs - Run 60/60 on the dry and it completely negated the dreaded "Hay Smell" terpenes are very noticeable with clean notes of the lemon while burning.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Ok things are moving.... they must... time doesn't stop. I have a lot of new stuff. And I am cloning everything. (This diary will only end when it wont accept any more info or seeds) so I have labeled pics. And I will place my newts correctly soon. But for those who know I only really use General Hydroponics. If anybody has questions don't be hesitant to ask... I know there is info that I am not so upfront about. But all and all I think everyone is growing good. Well except for my bitch (slurricane). One week she is good and then sh*t .... wtf... I think she will like the California Sun. ( its really different here!!!! ) I will start introducing Dutch Buckets ( 3 gallon ... DIY ) some plants are telling me they need it ( Gorilla Zkittles ). And let's not forget about DVG she is still playing lock out games. But I have a feeling about it. Fuck it let's play. 😎

Trichomes are starting to amber and I habe already begun Flushing at this point I'm am just waiting for them to tell me they are down before I turn the lights off for 48 hours before harvest

My long vegging. Pheno of Fat Banana Auto is finally ready for harvest. Top Buds got nice purple leaf tips. Smell and bud structure is 10/10. I did wet trimming because of high humidity levels.

Deoliated and trained! Even did a little video showcase! In love with this round from Fastbuds!!!!! Gonna get a great harvest!

Que pasa familia, vamos con la cuarta semana de crecimiento de estas Green Gelato feminizadas de RoyalQueenSeeds. Vamos al lío ,se trasplantaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.0 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/20 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 16h de luz, el foco está al 50% de potencia. De momento van creciendo a buen ritmo y tienen un buen color, estaban muy bien enraizadas al realizarle el trasplante se notaba la abundancia radicular. Agradecer Agrobeta por el envío del kit gold series en cuestión, unos maestros 🙏 - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

In small barrels there is good wine, says a classic proverb from my home country and our two Do si Dos naturally branded Zamnesia seem to fit this proverb perfectly. Small and beautiful like two very beautiful girls, it often happens I have a weakness for short and pretty girls. The smallest one was worked with a topping to create a mainfold and then main lining. Being a plant with a low internodal distance it ended up becoming a kind of bonsai which to tell the truth we don't mind at all very cute and effective. The worked plant left growing straight is practically ready and. we are flushing it with industrial quantities of water because it arrived a bit loaded at the end. The shape is very very beautiful like the structure of this plant for real. We are still using soil, fertilizers and all the additives recommended by Plagron 100% organic on one and the other Canna Flush. ---- Decide on the right soil and calculate your fertilization program based on the soil on the official website. -- www.plagron.com Try a seed of this strain that drives us crazy.. ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10664-zamnesia-seeds-do-si-dos-f1-automatic.html Zamnesia Description // From the team at Zamnesia Seeds comes Do-Si-Dos F1 Automatic. Using consistent and reliable F1 genetics, this strain is not only incredibly easy to grow, but also offers potent and delicious buds. The plants remain small and offer a reliable growing experience that everyone will appreciate. All the best that mother nature has to offer is at ---- www.zamnesia.com

Creo que el filtro esta roto o dañado ya que el extractor larga todo hacia afuera todo el olor de la tienda

ritical Purple Kush was harvested on day 65 of flowering. This plant was a joy to grow, with no major issues throughout the cycle. The buds are dense, beautifully colored, and carry a delightful sweet, earthy aroma with citrus undertones. Can't wait to see how it cures—it promises to be an exceptional smoke!

the lady start to put weight n form the cola