Week 3 of flower. Plants are growing amd av streched a lot. Av done some deleafing and lolly poping on them will let them recover now bit the are growing good with no problmes at all got a bit of a smell coming of them there geting feed 3litters everi other day now so driking good @growerchoice @SHOGUN COCO A 4ml/L 160ml @SHOGUN COCO B 4ml/L. 160ml @SHOGUN ACTIVE BOOST 2ml/L. 40ml @SHOGUN CAL MAG 1ml/L 20ml @SHOGUN ZENZYM 2.5ml/L. 100ml @SHOGUN KATANA ROOTS 0.2ML/ 8ML

Beginning of week 8 and seems like a long way to go. Most of the hairs still white. Hopefully the buds will fill in more! As right now I’m planning to take it 10+ weeks. This week I will lower the CO2 slowly 50 PPM every day until I will reach 800PPM. Also I will lower the light intensity by 2% every day. This week I lowered the day temp to 79 degrees and next week I’m playing to lower it every further to 76 degrees Fahrenheit. Water temp is at 68 degrees and probably from week 9 I will lower it to 66. Beginning of week 8 TDS is at 550PPM. I sent adding the Late bloom enhancer from Current Culture! End of week 8 : lowered the TDS to 470ppm , she seems that it not eating so much nutrients anymore. She still drinking 3 gallons of water every single day.

woche 8 tag 50 sieht soweit ganz gut aus blüte wächst höhenwachstum verlangsamt sich deutlich einige blätte haben braune spitzen, aber alles noch im Rahmen tag 54 blüte wächst kein höhenwachstum erste fächerblätter vergilben düngung tag 55: 700ml Wasser + 4ml Mairol Blütenwunder

D69 (2days ago) Cut and Set to dry. Was a fun grow

suddenly i spotted whats damaging my plants and causing the dots - it is butterfly worms.... Then again i got alot of natural preditors whom i trust to do a great job so i try not to over spray with neem to keep em arround. making sure i kill every maggot i see

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas Tropicana poison F1 de Sweetseeds. Vamos al lío , las 3 plantas seleccionadas fueron trasplantadas a su maceta definitiva, ya superaron el shock por el trasplante, estas semanas las paremos todas a floración. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de floración 12h de luz, el foco está al 100% de potencia. Las jodidas estiraron demasiado, veremos como acaban, no me gustan tan altas. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

It was finally time to harvest her, what good times we had with her. Amazed with how beautiful this plant is, how easy to manage and train and how rewarding Orange Hill Special is. So we said our thanks and goodbye, thanked her for all the joy she gave while growing her. I realize more and more how I love growing them even more than the end-product. It takes my mind of all going on for a while, in my miniature jungle world in the attic. Im sure all of you just sometimes sit there and watch them, in wonder, dreaming away with a good buzz on, watching them wave in the wind of the fans. So with a heavy hart I apologize, play them their last music, sit with them and feel them and smell them, watch the glistening of the cristals. In the end we had 209 gram dried Orange Hill Special, I will know the total of the grow, in a few days, since the final big whopper still has to dry: my XtraKush, be sure to check the harvest of that one *in couple of days) and see a one-dollar seed outperform two 10 dollar seeds. I probably go over 500 grams for the total grow, which would be 1.6 grams per watt. Big success! Consider an SP-3000 for your next light, you won't be disappointed! Check www.mars-hydro.com for the latest discounts! Thank you @MarsHydroLED for letting us try out your light, it made this successful grow possible! Greetings and all the best! Thank you to our friends here, our followers and the whole Growing Diaries community for just being there. Big Hug, Sunshine and BioBuds

I am loving this plant!! Her buds are deep deep purple and super dense and covered in trichs!!! The smell is awesome....sweet and fruity with gasseyness, pretty sure that's not a word. This is going to be a great grow!! Thank you @

Tbd

Wow, I can't believe the sea of green my tents turned into! I'm actually amazed all 6 are doing really well for my first time! I've started to add some dutchpro explode to my feed and the buds have done what it says on the tin! Purple queen is still taking the lead and I cannot wait to try her! 😍 she's so sticky and oozing with Trichomes. I've made my own spray that has organic honey, brown sugar, bicarbonate of soda, green tea which I spray on them before I turn the lights out and I'm not sure if it's helping but they are looking amazing weather it's from that or not. I'm not sure how longs left to be honest they seem to be all at different stages at the minute. Hats off to Royal queen seeds for this amazing purple queen pheno I wish it wasn't an auto so I could take some clones 💚

Hola a todos!!. Esta semana he regado con top veg 2ml x litro se agua y el resto de los días solo agua. Viene creciendo bien, a pesar de no tratarla como corresponde. 😅🙏

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Habe sie heute geerntet. Wir hören uns in 3 Wochen mit dem Erntebericht. Rabattcode für den BIOTABS-Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/ GDBT420, damit erhalten Sie 15 Prozent

Training methods include the several weeks I missed. As of this week no training. Morning Glory- 35.5” Tall Mexican Haze (in-ground)-40” Tall Mexican Haze- 33” Tall Love Drunk- 25” Tall Ackbar OG- 26.5” Tall Crazy Glue- 38” Tall The nutrients used are from a once a week ordeal. Normally it’s just tap water. I still need to update the info on the other two Love Drunks as well as the Fruity Pebbles.

Welcome growfessors to another episode of growfessor theatre 👽💚 Week 6F begins for the ladies of the 4x4, Green Crack, LSD and Mandarin dreams are rocking! Buds a bulking up, getting sticky, frosty and stanky!! Do-si-dos is a bit behind the other ladies as this strain will take an extra week to finish, but she's also packing on size, frost and stickyness. The Mars-Hydro TSW2000 light is rocking the grow, lighting up the 4x4 really well! Thanks for stopping by growfessors, stay tuned for another episode! 👽🌳💚

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Well she doubled her height this week. She is the smallest in the batch. If I'm honest I didn't expect her to make it this far. During germination I disturbed & agitated the box by knocking it 😡 this led to the very tip of the taproot being severed off but crucially this was below the 'hairs' that extend out horizontally. I took a gamble and planted her expecting it to be a mortal wound but mother nature again shows her resilience. Above all else I've learned that nature strives very hard to survive. It's kinda humbling really.........

Tuve problemas de raíz al tener poco drenaje con las botellas y tube que trasplantar antes de tiempo, de los errores se aprende.

16 days transplant to 3.5 gal Dutch bucket with perlite. Auto watered every 6 hrs with newts ppm 680 we will get some burn. It will be ok. Should be mild but strain depending. We She all see who gets upset. They are now in the Greenhouse. So it's up to the Sun and 2 - 1000 watt HPS ( for supplemental light ). Grab a chair and hold on. Don't forget the popcorn.

Sensi seed Northern lights x haze day 39 of flowering going well no mayor concerns , increasing nutrient levels to ec 1,6 - 2.4 fertigating daily and supplements like amino’s, silica and calmag once a week

Con 79 dias lavado de raices a todas. La aparición de botritis ha forzado el lavado a todas ellas para no arriesgarme más. Dejo un histórico del tiempo que han sufrido las Auto desde el dia que pasaron a exterior. Un tiempo generalmente nublado y bastantes dias de lluvia. Es lo que tiene el exterior, se depende muchísimo del tiempo y esta vez ha salido así. Otro año será diferente y saldrá mejor o peor. De la jack tube que sacar parte del apical que se vió afectada por la botritis por lo que la altura seria áproximada.