This lady is slowly starting to stretch with short internodes. The grasshoppers are doing the defoliation for me. It's always been sunny for a month, not a cloud on the horizon.😎☀️☀️

There will be pleasant dreamzzzz around here in the near future, these beauties are covered in crystal and the buds are incredibly dense. They are almost near harvest and they will have a wash when the time comes. These girls have been incredible from day one and I must say, we are WOWED by this strain and the genetics within!

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

This week buds are super dense and getting frosty by the day. Starting to wish I made the best use of space as some of the lower canopy not recieving as much light. A little difficult to reach all plants. Arimq is very strong and citusy , pungent & fruity.

Creciendo fuerte y adaptándose a las podas

This week I had almost no time at all due to family commitments - I'm also completely at a loss as to what deficiency my plants are suffering from. I would say a serious calcium magnesium deficiency. But why? I mixed every watering with calmag - I suspect that the pH value in the soil was not right at times. The deficiency came overnight with the second compost tea. Oh well - I hope I can still salvage something. I would be very grateful for help. Thank you 🙏

One side is growing good the other isnt it still seems like a very good plant. Thinking about adding some bio heaven for a boost . Grows great in the sun .

Grape soda, tropical punch, and gasoline. These rock hard flowers were some of the prettiest to watch grow I've ever seen.

Great starter plant for a first timer was easy all round she stayed short but stocky rock hard dence nugs

Trimmed all the larf off and we are at 3-2-1 stage and added a submersible pump she is doing great we are on our final stretch. Can't wait https://c.tenor.com/0nV04cpKAF8AAAAM/happy-dance.gif

They all got very heavy and big buds, the plant/stems do not have just a chance to support the weight of the flowers on their own. Since I'm in lack of flower/smoke material currently, I chopped on D51 already one tree. Going to take care of the remaining in the upcoming days and will post next update once everything is dried. Smells lemony with a taste lavender flavor, a bit like a very masculine after shave. And it's very very stinky, leave it open in the basement and you are going to smell it also on the 3rd floor of the house. Grew the clone now the second time and nailed it this time much better. She's for sure a keeper. High yielding, fast flowering sativa like growing terp monster 🔥

Started Flowering today did a 24 hour dark cycle than switched to a 11/13 schedule. Things are looking super good!!

Ich glaube es geht aufs ende zu oder warum sehen die blätter in der hinteren reihe so schlecht aus

Well, this is the first one of flora, they already showed some pistils which are the initial sign of flora and so let's move on today I added 1ml of top bloom from top crop and let's see what happens to this grow I still think it will last a few more 8 weeks until the harvest, any questions feel free to ask or help me with something I haven't seen and I'm open to tips too! =D

Hi liebe Community and Welcome Back! 💚 Nach der sechsten Wachstumswochen entwickelt sich die Orange Bud solide. Sie legt jetzt richtig mit der Wachstumsphase los. Vor allem hat Sie ihr Geschlecht offenbart und ja, es ist ein Weibchen.. 😊💚 Daher war es an der Zeit ihr ein neues Zuhause zu verschaffen. Daher wurde die Erde im neuen Topf (9L) mit der Gesponserten Palette von Biot Tabs vorbereitet! (Ein fettes Dankeschön nochmal 😉) Hierdurch werde ich die Pflanze grundsätzlich nur mit Wasser gießen und immer Mal wieder noch etwas Orgateex und später dann PK 5-8 hinzufügen. Die neuen Blätter sehen sehr Gesund aus und insgesammt hat sich die Pflanze gut entwickelt. Die Seittriebe beginnen nun in die Breite zu gehen und kommen allmählich gut hervor. Die unteren Triebe wurden rausgeschnitten, damit die Pflanze nun ihr Potential nach oben entfalten kann. Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind aktuell gut: ————— 🌞 Temp: 21 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💨 RH: 48% VPD: 1,00 kPa 💡ppfd: 330 mpm ————— Viele Grüße 👋

Week 2 of flower for White Widow Shes really looking great! Colour is spot on id say, stretched her out a bit so the light has better chance to penetrate to the lowers. Really looking forward to what comes from this girl in the next 2 weeks or so.