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@Ju_Bps
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Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Flowers continue maturation, End is close, i've started flush, Harvest for next week. 💧Give water each 2 or 3 days 1,5l Water + Nutri NPK Bloom Boost 1,5l Water + Flash Cleaner PH @6 - Nutri NPK Bloom Boost 1/4 tsp for 1 gal. 💡Mars Hydro - SP 3000 100% 41 cm. 🔥 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾💚🌲. Mars Hydro - SP 3000 💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light NUTRI NPK 💥🔥 https://www.nutrinpk.com/product/npk-mix-pak-for-4-to-5-plants-cannabis-fertilizer/ Pure Instinto - Strawberry Shortcake Auto🌲🌲 https://pureinstinto.com/product/strawberry-shortcake-autoflower/
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Good strain with a particular odor Some genotype or more fruity other more earthy both or sweet and cool Every body love the taste of her
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@MxGrow
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Feliz por como van mis gorilas, todos los días hay cambios y cada semana tengo que aumentar el riego, esta semana utilice en total 18 litros, 4.5 litros para cada planta aproximadamente. En los primeros 6 litros uso: ▪️︎4ml de Connoisseur A y B por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de Rhino por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de Bud Candy por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de Carboload por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de B-52 por litro de agua. Espero 30 minutos y despues aplico otros 6 litros con los siguientes nutrientes: ▪️︎4ml de Connoisseur A y B por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de Nirvana por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de Big Bud por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de Overdrive por litro de agua. ▪️︎2ml de Voodo Juice por litro de agua. No tengo medidor de EC, por lo tanto trato de que las mediciones en ml sean exactos con una jeringa. ☆ 1 día a la semana riego las plantas con 6 litros de agua sin nutrientes y con un PH en 6.0, hasta el momento no han presentado carencias pero tengo la duda si tienen exceso de nitrógeno por el color verde intenso de las hojas.
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@I_and_I
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Week 9 for this absolute specimen of a female Shes still fattening up incredibly, normal colas are forearm sized, poly cola is getting on for leg sized proportions 😂😂😂 Still a bit to go on her too, awesomeness Smelling like proper amnesia now unmistakable 👌😎👍😁
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Α,α (alpha) and Ω,ω(omega) Here we grow again. LAST GROW. 344g+280g+445g+255g=1324g dry bud. Yielding 1,324 grams of dry cannabis using a 600W light in a 4x4 tent is exceptionally efficient. This breaks down to roughly 2.21 grams per watt, far exceeding the standard indoor benchmark of 1.0 g/W and outperforming elite professional targets (1.5–2.0 g/W). For carbon and energy efficiency, this output drastically lowers the carbon cost per gram compared to typical indoor grows. Achieving 1,324 grams (47.2 ounces) of dry cannabis from a 600W light in a 4x4 tent is exceptional, yielding roughly 2.21 grams per watt. This is an elite-tier result that reflects world-class photosynthetic conversion, highly optimized canopy light distribution, dialled-in CO2 supplementation, and precise environmental control. Growing 1.3kg of dry in a 2x2 with 1 plant is just being silly and not understanding how carbon and energy conversion works towards mass. Took 6 years and 10,000+ Hours to break the 2 grams-per-watt barrier not exactly 600W, in honesty, though—even with modern, high-efficiency LEDs—is an incredible feat that requires hitting the absolute genetic ceiling of the cultivar and maintaining flawless environmental parameters for the space. Photosynthesis is the literal conversion of light energy (photons) into chemical energy (carbohydrates). Leaf temperature, driven by radiation from fixtures and mitigated by latent heat of vaporization (transpiration), dictates metabolic rates. If your room's thermal dynamics are off, enzyme activity inside the plant stalls, grinding growth to a halt. Anyone else pretending to have done so with nothing but Plagron nutrients at 75F is telling porkie pies *cough*, otherwise known as a liar, liar with a bum that's on fire, but it seems that's the new norm these days on GD. *cough cough*. Using copper and zinc plates in the plant medium to form a natural earth battery to assist with Electrochemical Reactance. The moist soil acts as an electrolyte, while zinc serves as the anode and copper as the cathode. Zinc is a highly reactive metal and oxidizes, losing electrons into the soil. These electrons travel through an external wire to the copper plate. The moisture and dissolved salts in your plant medium allow charged ions to move freely between the plates, completing the circuit and generating a small direct current (usually between 0.8 and 1.1 volts). This micro-current subtly alters/the Electrical Conductivity (EC), allowing more effective breaking apart of chemical bonds in the soil (electrolysis), making soil nutrients like phosphorus, calcium, and potassium more accessible to roots. Buried the zinc plates around the sides of the plant pot's root zone and the copper plate in the middle. Ran an insulated copper wire above ground to connect the zinc plate to the copper plate, creating a closed loop. Making sure the soil remains perfectly moist and contains everything it needs; entirely distilled water or bone-dry medium will prevent ion exchange and block the current. Leave that up to the rhizosphere. Currently testing new parameters for a couple of weeks. Seeing what she can do with a new and upgraded ducting closed loop and double the water capacity. Also added 6kg of inoculated biochar along with a slew of small improvements. Keeping an eye on. Zinc toxicity vs. consumption, given how sacrificial zinc is. Want to make sure the biochar stabilizes first. A Synganic closed-loop bioengineering-logic grow room merges synthetic inputs (precision minerals/chelated nutrients) with an organic living soil matrix (microbial life/bio-stimulants), managed via automated, data-driven automation. Master Operating Procedure (MOP): The system balances a sterile environment with a thriving, dynamic rhizosphere, merging the biological resilience of living organic soil with the high-precision chemical control of modern Controlled Environment Agriculture (CEA). Synganic blends a biologically active living soil or microbe-rich substrate with targeted, low-dose mineral or synthetic fertigation to optimize both metabolic yield and secondary metabolite expression (terpenes/flavonoids). What else is alive! Eisenia fetida (Red Wigglers) will continuously process organic matter into plant-available nutrients and aerate the media. Stratiolaelaps scimitus (Hypoaspis mites) provides excellent biological control against fungus gnats and pupating thrips. Armadillidium vulgare (Pillbugs) excel at breaking down tough, woody organic matter and toxic heavy metals. New "Closed-Loop Sealing" Isolates the internal microclimate from external weather, vectors, and pests. Air is scrubbed 264nm UV-C, recirculated, and enriched rather than openly exhausted. Operational Parameters (MOP Framework). Microbes act as biological buffers for the mineral inputs, preventing salt toxicity and ensuring continuous nutrient availability. Precise management of Vapour Pressure Deficit (VPD) day and night to force optimal stomatal conductance without stressing the biological media. Strict clean-room protocols prevent pathogen intrusion while maintaining non-sterile, highly active beneficial bacteria and fungi populations in the root zone. Looking at a grow room as a closed-loop system changes everything. You aren't "growing a plant"; you are managing a mass and energy balance equation where the plant is a biological transducer. Every watt of light introduces sensible heat. Every drop of water turns into latent heat via transpiration. When a deficiency appears, a grower flushes or adds a bottle of "magic" additive. A master looks at the HVAC duty cycle, realizes the dew point spiked, the stomata closed, and calcium transport stalled due to lack of transpiration, not lack of nutrients. Protocol-driven logic can be automated, replicated, and optimized. Legacy growing and anecdotal habits fail the moment the room moisture volume changes. ADD CALMAG! Comprehensive Substrate Composition: Because why not. 1. Substrate Base & Aeration Media Expanded Clay Aggregates (Hydroton Pebbles) Coir Chunks & Horticultural Coco Coir Sphagnum Peat Moss Horticultural Perlite Horticultural Vermiculite Horticultural Pumice Volcanic Basalt Rock 2. Mineral Amendments & Soil Conditioners Agricultural Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) Wollastonite (Calcium Silicate) Dolomitic Limestone (Calcium Magnesium Carbonate) Basalt Rock Dust (Trace Mineralizer) Azomite (Micronutrient-Rich Volcanic Ash) Glauconite (Greensand) Crushed Seashells (Calcium Carbonate Source) Pyrolyzed Carbon Feedstocks (Biochar & Horticultural Charcoal) Shungite (Carbonaceous Mineraloid) 3. Organic Nutrient Amendments Steamed Bone Meal (High Phosphorus) Dehydrated Blood Meal (High Nitrogen) Fish Bone Meal (Phosphorus & Trace Calcium) Cold-Processed Kelp Meal (Ascophyllum nodosum) Dehydrated Moringa Oleifera Powder (Botanical Nutrient) Spirulina Powder (Arthrospira platensis / Cyanobacteria Nutrient) Marine Crustacean Biomass (Shrimp & Crab Chitin) 4. Biological Inoculants & Organic Acids Mycorrhizal Fungi Inoculant (Endomycorrhizae / Ectomycorrhizae) Vermicompost (Premium Worm Castings) Humic & Fulvic Acids (Concentrated Humates) Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC): An ecological concept referring to the pathway of water moving from the soil, through the plant, and into the atmosphere. Humidity of the air dictates the moisture in the medium, which dictates the rate of pull from the terracotta stakes 15 in total. Terracotta (unglazed, low-fired clay) is highly porous, acting as a breathable, permeable membrane that transports water based on the moisture gradient between the potting medium (soil) and the surrounding air. White terracotta and brown terracotta often have different pore sizes and overall porosity, primarily driven by differences in clay composition, impurities, and firing temperatures. While both are considered porous, brown terracotta often has higher iron content and impurities that behave as fluxes, affecting how the pores form during firing, while white terracotta is generally derived from more refined clays, with smaller pores making it more suited to pure water. This mechanism is driven by capillary action and evaporation. When the surrounding soil is dry, the terracotta acts as a wick, pulling water out of the pot and into the soil. If the soil is very saturated, the terracotta absorbs water from the soil and allows it to evaporate from its outer surface, increasing the drying rate of the soil. Terracotta tends to keep the potting mix at an optimal saturation point, wicking up more water when the outside surface evaporates water into the air. The greater the difference in moisture between the soil and the outside air, the faster the water transfers through the ceramic. In low humidity and hot weather, the evaporation rate from the terracotta surface is high, creating a rapid drying effect. Newer terracotta pots often have a denser, lighter-toned structure that is less porous than traditional, red-orange terracotta, slowing down the moisture transfer rate. Over time, dissolved salts from fertilizer or tap water build up and block the pores, reducing the permeability of the clay. Water is all that is used or needed, thanks to the biochar and the massive storage bank of nutrients. Just waiting until something creeps up. Clay pot irrigation (Ollas), an ancient farming practice, utilizes this property by burying unglazed jars in the soil, allowing water to slowly seep into the surrounding soil only when the soil dries out. Remember to clean terracotta stakes in mild acid after each grow. Submerge the stakes in a solution of 1 part distilled white vinegar to 3 or 4 parts water. Let the stakes soak for 20 to 30 minutes. You will hear a fizzing sound as the acid reacts with and dissolves the mineral salts. Use a stiff-bristled brush or an old toothbrush to scrub away the loosened residue. Rinse the stake thoroughly in clean water to wash away any leftover vinegar. BOOM good for next grow! Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils. Electrical Conductivity refers to how easily a material or solution allows electrons or ions to flow continuously when an electrical potential is applied. Electrochemical Reactance is the opposition to alternating current (AC) caused specifically by the temporary storage of energy in electric or magnetic fields, rather than energy being lost as heat. Reactance does not directly alter a material's intrinsic electrical conductivity. Instead, it dictates how the system stores and releases energy over time, which creates a temporary barrier to current flow in AC circuits. Together with resistance, reactance makes up total impedance. Electrical impedance (the combination of resistance and reactance) in the rhizosphere dictates how easily ions and water move into plant roots, directly impacting the Electron Transport Rate (ETR). High impedance restricts ion mobility, leading to nutrient deficiencies that decrease ETR and stunt overall plant growth. Electrolysis in the rhizosphere can reduce the direct ATP energy cost for a plant by electrochemically altering soil chemistry, changing pH gradients, and splitting or reducing compounds so that nutrients become easier to absorb or break down. Electrolysis uses an external electrical voltage to drive chemical reactions (like splitting water or reducing ions). This external electricity performs thermodynamic work on the soil solution. Rather than directly fueling plant enzymatic machinery or lowering biological ATP synthesis costs inside root cells, electrochemical reactions alter surrounding nutrient forms (e.g., changing pH, altering redox states, or breaking tight mineral bonds). By electrochemically making mineral ions more mobile or bioavailable, the plant may spend less root exudate carbon or membrane-transport ATP trying to scavenge locked nutrients, though the plant's baseline respiration and ATP costs for active uptake still apply. Laws of math are conceptual, laws of math are universal, the laws of math are invariant, and the laws of math are exceptionless. The laws of mathematics are the foundational rules that govern structure, quantity, space, and change. Unlike the laws of physics, which describe how our specific universe behaves, mathematical laws are absolute truths independent of physical reality. Think of electricity like highway traffic to easily understand the difference between the movement, the road, and the speed. •Electron Flow is the traffic (the cars moving). •Electrical Conductivity is the highway (how wide and smooth the road is). •Electron Transport Rate (ETR) is the speedometer (how many cars pass by per second). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Mass is effectively "congealed" energy. Energy is just numbers. Energy isn't a physical "substance" you can hold or touch. It is essentially an abstract, calculated number that we assign to a system to predict how it will change, interact, or move. A numerical label we attach to matter to track how it behaves. ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the primary energy carrier in cells, including plant cells. It powers various cellular activities like nutrient uptake, protein synthesis, and cell division. Without ATP, the plant's metabolic machinery would grind to a halt, regardless of the presence of nutrients, oxygen, or carbon. Nutrients, like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, are essential for building plant tissues and various molecules. They are incorporated into proteins, nucleic acids, and other vital compounds. While crucial, their uptake and utilization rely on ATP-driven processes. Oxygen is vital for cellular respiration, a process that generates ATP. While plants can produce ATP through photosynthesis, oxygen is essential for maximizing ATP production in mitochondria through oxidative phosphorylation. Carbon is the backbone of all organic molecules, including carbohydrates synthesized during photosynthesis. It's the fundamental building block of plant structures and fuels. However, its incorporation into organic molecules is also ATP-dependent. We don't grow we facilitate energy conversion. Everything is energy. Energy is represented by numbers. Numbers are frozen music. Music is moving sacred geometry of the Uni-verse.
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Hi please let me know if my first grow is going okay, I have tried my best to keep on top of my plants needs but I would love some feedback from anyone willing to share thanks
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It’s crazy to watch how quickly the plants can bounce back after taking 90% of their leaves off. Healthy growing environment is crucial.
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@Hawkbo
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The grow went well considering the circumstances. 3 grows horizontally until flower and needs support for the branches as the buds got so big. 2 was easier to manage it didnt need much support. Theres no waste from this strain, barely any trim and the trim there is is smokable it's so covered in frost. My meter got out of wack in late flower and I ended up giving a heavy feed which burnt the tips of the buds.
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Started LST today but as of Day 22 Mazar was 24 cm Daiquiri was 13 cm and Auto Ultimate was 22 cm. They are doing really well and growing fast!! Daiquiri is definitely shorter then the other two but I believe that is her nature.
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Here we are day, 7 and our little lady is finally a week old and looking great... i plan on keeping her in the tent for the next week. Or two, and then slowly transitioning my outside deck that really only gets about five hours of direct sunlight a day.So we'll see how this pans out.. This grow is more of an experiment for me as I just wanna see the quality difference from outdoor and indoor and there's no better way to do that than using Zamnesias genetics .. also, shout out to all the tribe members out there!! I've been trying to tell people Zamnesia Seeds not only has great genetics, but their website is off the chain. They have everything you can fathom and their reward system is absolutely amazing.. This little girl's happy. That means this guy is happy. I hope everyone is doing well. God bless all.Thanks for love and happy growing ✌️
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@420SYL
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I made a mistake with my last two waterings: the pH was at 7 instead of 6 / 6.2… My Bluelab pH pen was reading 6.2, and the classic pH drop test was hard to read because of the added nutrients. The plants clearly went into lockout. I watered at 6.2 yesterday and they already showed signs of improvement; I’ll post a before/after photo. They’ll make it to the end 💪🌱 The two SM&Q2 already have nicely milky trichomes and a few amber ones — the harvest will be small but high quality ✨ The two Sour B are slower, but they smell insanely good — fruity candy vibes 🍬🍭
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@JonnyKush
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hello growmies! day 51 finally the pre-flowers begin to appear. I apologize for the few photos but unfortunately they really filled the box and I find it difficult. overall I have to say they look in perfect shape! I will keep you updated thanks for passing by. like and comment! good day and beautiful growth to you 🌳🌱
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@Jbuttch
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Ya viendo el resultado del último LST, desde aquí ya veo cómo van las cosas!
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Blow Mind Blows My Mind!!!😎 👉Harvest day came! The plant trichomes were mostly cloudy, still a few clears and very little amber on the calyx’s. If this was the only indicator for this plant I would have kept going until I saw a few less clears. However the plant did not have many fresh calix’ and most of the leaves were fully faded and drying out (referring to the major cola branches). Since it’s a Sativa dominant strain, I wanted the uppy high and so there was no need to risk pushing any further. 👉To do the harvest, I started at the bottom of the plant. I trimmed the secondary branches off and most of those landed on the ‘larf’ net, and the major colas got wet weighed and placed on a clothes pin with a letter on it. I logged each bud with its wet weight. Each clothes pinned cola was hung on a drying rack. Some of the lower coals had some decent secondary buds and those were given numbers so they could be jarred with its main cola later. I was not able to access the plant and trim as much of the secondary branches from the main branches. The lower branches have lots of secondary branches and lots of under developed flower. I will categorize it as larf because it is under developed, even if each secondary branch would be the same size and quality as many of the so-called ‘contest winners’ on this site. But I digress…The bud structure wasn’t ‘perfect’, oversized calyx’s, longer and slender, with a bit of fox tailing. But oh wow is it frosty! This is the stickiest of any that I have grown so far. My first Gorilla glue lived up to its name as a scissor clogger…this plant is twice as sticky! The sticky is all over the plant and extends well out onto the sugar leaves and the stems. The lower areas of the plant also had more leaves on it, so it became a frustrating exercise of leaves being trimmed and sticking to my fingers as I plucked them, then switching to the scissors to snip the leaves, which quickly became sticky and required lots of scraping to keep working. I started using two different pairs of scissors, one for leaves and one for the buds. I did get a nice, almost marble sized scissor hash ball. 👉The buds had lots of sugar leaves; these were all frosty as fuck. So I only trimmed off the leaves that stuck out. I didn’t trim them close. The structure of this bud, a looser trim is seemed to be what it should get. I had 18 main colas, and 8 buds from a couple of the lower main colas. There was one and a half net racks with decent sized secondary buds, and two net racks full of ‘larf’. I didn’t weigh the larf after a few bunches. After all the buds were trimmed, cataloged and hug on the rack, and aimed a 42” tower fan set about 36” away and turned to a medium speed. Two smaller fans pointed at the round net rack. The grow tent exhaust was cranked to high because the sweet funky stank was pissing my wife off…so I knew it was going to be something special! Outside, even with moderate breezes you could smell it outside around the house. After 12 hours I rotated the buds side that faced the fans, after 8 more hours I turned the fan down to its lowest speed. I again rotated the buds and weighed a couple to see the reduction in weight so far. The buds on the net rack were turned every 8 hrs. During this time the outdoor temps were in the 40s and sunny. My HVAC was set to 65f and didn’t run much. After the buds started feeling a little dry on the outside I placed them inside paper lunch sacks and left the tops open. I monitored the buds closely till they felt like they were getting a little drier. At that time I closed the top of the bags. When I did that step I weighed a couple buds and we were at about 38%. Another couple of days like this and I weighed again, we were at about 25-30% weight remaining. Normally I shoot for 20-25%, however the buds felt very dry so I proceeded with the cataloging the weight as I placed into jars. I placed hygrometers in each jar and expected to be leaving the jars open regularly to keep the humidity down. Surprisingly most of the hygrometers were registering below 60% humidity with only a few of the jars needing any airing out. My target humidity is 62%, but since they have all been slightly lower I have held off on putting the humidity packs in. The buds are still a little moist around the middle and Im sure the extreme frosty stickiness is contributing to holding in some moisture. This isn’t a bad thing and I have the humidity low enough that I shouldn’t get any mildew. I put the 62% humidity packs into the jars as I felt that each jar needed it. The final weights do not include the 'larf'. The total of the underdeveloped 'larfy' buds was 142g and would make great hash. I wont be making hash however because I the kief hash is already more that I will consume. 👉I took a small larf branch two weeks early. . I just let it dry out with no care for about 5 days then put into a small jar. It’s really the best larf I’ve toked yet. Very sticky, sweet funk aroma, and a nice strong buzz. I sampled some of the main buds after being in the jars a few days and it was significantly stronger! Taking a tiny bit of the scissor hash at two weeks was exponentially stronger! At 6 weeks the flavor is wonderful. Smooth and sweet. The taste at exhale make me smile.
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This cross between Cherry Pie and Chemdawg and do-si-dos It smells vaguely like brain cake. However, chempie has a stronger aroma than brain cake. strong terpenes of linalool, and the smoke was quite harsh and powerful with each hit. The nicest form and most substantial buds in this crop
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Colhi um pouco mais cedo porque começaram a amarelar muito e acho que o solo estava com muito sal, fiz flush esta última semana e colhi, vamos avançar para o próximo. Está a secar, daqui a uns dias falo de quanto deu cada planta seco e do fumo. Obrigado a todos 🤜🏽🤛🏽
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Questa Ayahuasca purple ha sofferto molto stress. Spero arrivi a maturazione..,anche lei...è rimasta 3mesi dentro un vasetto da un litro adesso è in un vaso da 7 ma si sta riprendendo bene... Poi dando Advanced nutrient in spray fogliare 2 minuti prima che si spegne la luce è perfetta....sta tornando al suo verde ben vivo😉💪☮️🕉️👍