The hermaphroditic of the two S.A.D.s has stopped, in total it remained at 4x 🍌 Since 5 days no more were added and I could already observe via my timelapse recordings how the flowers continue to grow. The Bruce Banner also shows no further deterioration in terms of potassium deficiency, the flowers continue to grow steadily. Although the S.A.D.'s were fertilized identically, neither of them show any major deficiency. Also interesting how S.A.D. #4 has overtaken her sister and her smell is not "grassy" at all. Something between floral with a sweet citrus/orange note. What also surprised me was that the Bruce Banner is already very far along in the development of its trichomes, many are already milky!

Update of the garden

2te Woche beginnt. Bisher läuft es glaube recht gut … Die kleinen wachsen brav … Habe mal 2 weitere Nutrients hinzugefügt und Versuche den VPD Wert irgendwie konstant zuhalten 🙈👍 Dank 4 Blumat Classic pro Topf reicht ab und zu bisschen sprühen aus dem Befeuchter… heute das erste mal die kleine Pflanze abgedeckt und ganz leicht von oben die trockene Erde mit den neuen Nutrients zusätzlich befeuchtet. Mal schauen was sie so bewirken …

Well, I've been comparing this with similar strains, untill now, i think she sugar kush is less profitable when using LST, but it works good, and the plant is nice and low

Week 2 G14 started adding biobizz grow along side nitrozyme everything looks perfect staying short and bushy il put a net on top in a few weeks when shes big enough I've started to tuck the leaves in on day 13.

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/uk/f1-hybrid-cannabis-seeds/621-medusa-f1.html ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Well here we are Day 36. Took loads of these ladies now going to sit back and watch the show. They have come along really nicely. ✌️ will water and feed tonight. Day 37, Gave the girls a good drink last night. 1 ltr per plant they seem to have taken it well. Fed too. ✌️ Day 38, nothing to report. ✌️ Day 39, water tonight. Looking good happy Green man ✌️ Day 40, Couple of bud shots. Watered and fed last night. Day 41, nothing to report. ✌️ Day 42, the cold air is with us. Will see how these ladies fair may have to go to 20/4 light if it gets too water tonight ✌️

Week 12 for Black Lebanon by SSSC She's really filling out nicely compared to last week I've had to bend some of the tops that were getting taller than the rest but nothing crazy. I went through a period of barely feeding her... well this week she's been fed 5-7L of water plus heavy heavy sprays every night😂 so a bit of a change up she doesn't seem phased either way. Currently having issues with crickets... keep eating my leaves not sure what to do about it if anyone can suggest anything? 😎

Desculpe não atualizar antes mais muito trabalho neste fim de ano adoro as cores da Red Hot tive ao total 3 Red Hot mais só fiz o diário de uma três feno tipos diferentes todos reds aromas diferentes em todos doce, pungente, frutas tropicais, owwwwww good Nice, a sweet zkitllez está muito bem também tive outras que não fiz o diário. Obrigado a todos

Fall is coming... After finishing stretch last week, the introduction of Hy-Pro Epic Bloom really got the bud production going. Mimosa stem is covered in trichomes, Blueberry is showing beautiful colors and Jack Herer is bulking. Everything is going as planned so far. Not that much to do at this point. Following my Hy-Pro nutrient scheme makes it just super easy, to turn those plants into the most beautiful ones, i ever grew. Just like last week, i fed them the following: Hy-Pro Terra: 4,5ml/l (component nutrients) Hy-Pro Generator: 0.16ml/l Hy-Pro Cal-mag: 4ml/l Hy-Pro Epic Bloom: 0,5ml/l EC: 1,8 VPD: 1,40 PPFD: 930 µmol/m²/s Blueberry and Mimosa Evo are showing some very characteristic colouring. I am very happy, to see this. Can't wait to see them in full colouration. It really is a Joy, to watch them change colours so rapidly, you can see differences every day. Pure plant entertainment. Stay tuned! Grow strong, Friends! 👽

Tag 64-70 / Blüte Tag 36-42 Luftfeuchtigkeit 50 Tag 28 Nacht 25 PPFD 879 DLI 38 Höhe 55 VPD 1,47 Lampe Abstand 40cm Lampe auf 70% Hab sehr mit der Hitze zu kämpfen, hoffentlich kommen in den letzten Blüte Wochen paar kältere Tage! Geruch wird immer süßer wenn man meiner Nase glauben kann!!! Blüte Woche 6 ist durch! War leider paar Tage unterwegs! Nächste Woche wird wieder ausführlicher.

20/01/2025 Seedlings have definitely grown in size! Bottom watered again today. Mixed 3L solution of Calmag, Growell Plus 8:8:8, Seaweed extract (2ml / 1ml / 1ml) and watered 1L per pot. Solution was sucked dry from tray relatively fast, guess the roots are growing. 21/01/2025 Measured PPFD / DLI today and found that my existing light had a relatively low ppfd value output. Reading 50 plus PPFD / 4.5 DLI at 24 inch height 75% power, generating insane amounts of heat if the grow tent is closed. Thing is the max ppfd is about 150 at 24 inches. Can't bring down the lights more without potentially causing light burn due to the high DLI low ppfd ratio. Fortunately I have the tent in a temperature controlled room so I had to leave the tent open to ensure there was good airflow cooling down the excess heat without causing too much of a temp shift. Managed to bring up the humidity by adding a larger humidifier maintaining 60 to 70 % range. Did myself a favour and ordered the vivosun aerolight a200se to go along with the rest of the vivosun kit. Hoping it arrives by week 3! Besides this, seedlings look healthy, did some foliar feeding with homemade wood vinegar (5ml to 1L) after lights out. 22/01/2025 I almost killed my plants with light lol. Turns out my existing light was putting up alright dishing out 1200 pfd from 24 inches at max. I noticed some skewed reading when I was tilting my phone screen so decided to take off the screen protector and damn.. ppfd was at 800 ppfd! It was the screen protector not the lights 😆 Since there were no signs of yellowing or wilting I decided to keep it at 400 ppfd. Bottom watered with 1L each of (2ml CalMag / 1ml Growell Plus 8:8:8 / 1ml Seaweed to 3L phed to 5.9) had about 100 ml excess after waiting for 10 mins so I drained out the excess. 23/01/2025 Fortunately my blunder with the lights didn't cost me too much. Plants still looking healthy, 3rd set of true leaves opening up.

Hey everyone! Sorry for the delay! This week I raised the amount of phosphorus and potassium! And yikes! I went suuuuuuper high by mistake! I gave them (after pH and TDS checks) a total of 1968 ppm which I believe was just way too much for my babies 😬 gladly they barely showed some nutrient burn. With the exception of Boomer and Falcho, which both plants are still showing some chlorosis (better than last week tho) and I believe it's probably because of some sort of nutrient lock out or maybe the plant is just getting too old! You'll see from the photos how the plants developed after overfeeding them. They didn't wither 😱 or anything (and only some few leaves started to show some signs of nutrient burn) so I'm happy so far. I'll be more careful next week about this! Besides that big mistake everything went well. I kept removing dry/yellow leaves and taking care of my babies 👌 Thanks everyone for reading!

Hi

Last 2 weeks before I put her in a 3 day dark period! I’m no longer giving any nutrients and I’m letting the plant deplete all the nutrients in the soil, I’m also only using water for now own. I have her in a 11.5 hour light schedule. There’s slight nutrient burning too on some parts but it’s nothing drastic.

Ja das spülen ist in vollem Gange und zeigt bei der ersten Pflanze bereits Wirkung. Trichome sind überwiegend milchig, warte jedoch noch etwas ab und checke täglich. Die 2 Pflanze hängt der ersten seit Beginn an hinterher... ich denke diese wird etwa eine Woche länger brauchen als die 1 Pflanze. Schade eigentlich, da ich beide gemeinsam im Zelt trocknen wollte.

Nightmare having 2 plants maturing nearly 3 weeks faster than the other 2

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Allora ragazzi come va?? La splendida ragazza della sweet seeds anche se l ho toppata continua a crescere a dismisura ho dovuto alzare la lampada della Marsh hydro al massimo possibile, che sfiora il filtro a carbone dell' aria!! 😁Questo tipo di generiche XL sono davvero una cosa portentosa, cmq ho avuto e sto avendo dei problemi... Perché nn mi era accorto di dare Bud Candy e quindi è andata , secondo me spero, in deficienza di calcio e magnesio , spero che questo mio errore nn contribuisca allo sfacelo totale del risultato della pianta , xké vedo cmq dalle foglie di colore verde chiaro che sta soffrendo... Ora ho rimediato integrandolo , ma spero di nn aver dato un eccesso di nutrienti e che sia in blocco... Apparte questo le cime hanno un bel colore viola intenso e sembra stiano crescendo.. vedremo prossimamente perché cmq io nn sono un esperto di questi fertilizzanti minerali della linea advanced nutrients, poi non avendo tutta la linea è normale che la pianta vada in carenza perché il terriccio è solamente un light mix , quindi poco fertilizzato.. speriamo bene! Ringrazio come al solito sweet seeds e Mars hydro x aver reso possibile tutto ciò! Buon 420 a tutti! 😼🐱💯💪🌱🌿🌲

First 4 switched to flowering phase, next week in tuning it oficialy in diary.