Gros changement de plans ! Mars Hydro m'a sponsorisé, je vais donc tourner à 100% en Mars Hydro ! J'ai donc une nouvelle tente, la 2in1 90x60x140 Mars Hydro ! Et un FC-E 4800 devrais bientôt arriver 😍 En attendant j'utilise mon ancien Spyder Lm301h + 660/730nm 75w J'ai divisée la 90x60x140 en 3 parties (et donc 3 Diaries) : 1️⃣ 🏠 60x60x140 ☀️ FC-E 4800 🍁 1x Black Bomb / Philosopher Seed 2x Amnesia Lemon / PEV Seeds 1x Blueberry / PEV Seeds 1x Blueberry / 00 Seeds 1x Wappa / Paradise Seed 1x Dark Phoenix / Green House Seed 1x Quick Sherbet / Exotic Seeds 1x Mango Cream / Exotic Seeds 1x Banana Frosting / Sensi Seed 1x Hindu Kush / Sensi Seed 1x Fast Mix / Sweet Seed 📎 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/122084-grow-journal-by-soosan 2️⃣ 🏠 30x60x90 ☀️ TS1000 🍁 4x Fast Mix - Sweet Seed 📎 3️⃣ 🏠 30x60x50 ☀️TS1000 🍁 4x Quick Sherbet 📎 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/122080-grow-journal-by-soosan

Continuando a preparare la sua forma finale. Purtroppo nella mia zona le temperature sono molto alte, circa intorno ai 34° ma per fortuna la Mango riesce a resistere un po. Attualmente la annaffio con 10L di acqua a settimana.

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 08/11/2019 - Showing early flower development? 09/11/2019 - Gave her 0.500 ml plain water PH 6.5, she's starting to need more water and also due to 30c temps. She's also showing light green around the leafs maybe slight magnesium deficiency. 10/11/2019 - Yellow leafs showing up really fast so I 'flushed' the medium with 1l of 6.4 PH plain water, watered until some run off start to showing, change the watering plan again, now I only water when the pot feels light and dry at the bottom. 13/11/2019 - Pot was really light and dry at the bottom so I gave her 1.5l of water with 0,75ml of Grow, 1,5ml of Bloom and 0.75ml of Max BioBizz PH 6.5 until some runoff started to appear I think was too much again : also added a work-supplement led strip light. 14/11/2019 - Leaves looking pale raise the light to 45cm instead of the recommended by manufacture 25-40cm.

Really fun grow. Wasn't sure what type of training I wanted to do, so it was nice to be creative day to day. Ended up using only LST. Lower branches stretched so much to make tall dense colas, like the turrets of a castle. No deficiencies or major problems. Recommended!

Richtig kräftige dunkle Blätter. Vom Längenwachstum hält sie sich eher sehr zurück. Ich hoffe sie macht noch ein bisschen höhe. Spraymix alle 2 Tage.

Tried lst think I fucked up please help trying to get plant to stretch

Massive colas from do si dos.

been a decent week for jorges diamonds shes having a good stretch now branches getting thicker nice tight node spacing will be removing calmag and silicon this week giving a flush and then start with some buddy thanks for reading happy growing guys

Die dritte Woche unter sehr guten Bedingungen ist abgeschlossen und die Ladies sind wohl auf und geben Gas. Der Vorsprung der Pflanze rechts auf den Bildern baut sich aus, dies scheint der Pheno zu sein der sich stark stretcht. Ich werde ihn die nächsten Wochen täglich mit Superscropping stressen um eine einheitliche Höhe zu bekommen. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit war diese Woche heftig hoch, so das ich diese außerhalb vom Zelt mit einem großen Entfeuchter auf rd 55-60 % regulieren musste um im Zelt optimale Bedingungen zu erreichen. In dieser Woche wurden beide Ladies getoppt zusätzlich alle weiteren Trainingsmethoden die ich nutze parallel angewendet. (Topping, LST, Entlaubung, Supercropping) Durch das umtopfen stehen erstmal genug Nährstoffe zur Verfügung. Ich steigere langsam. Pflanzen haben eine gute gesunde Farbe Tage der Keimung = 4 Tage. Tage in Wachstum = 21 Tage Wachstum h = 8 cm 1 mal in dieser Woche mit Purolyt Mischung 1:25 besprüht Lichtstärke: 55 % PPFD: ca. 500 umol Lichtabstand: 35 cm Std Tag/Nacht: 18/12 Temperatur Tag: ca. 26,5 Grad RLF Tag: 65% Temperatur Nacht: 22-23 Grad RLF Nacht: ca. 65 % VPD Wert: ca. 0,8-0,9 PH Wert Wasser/Düngelösung: 6,3 EC Wert: nicht gemessen Ventilator Oszillation: Stufe 1 Befeuchter: an Entfeuchter: aus Zusätzlicher Entfeuchter: 1 Stk. außerhalb vom Zelt im Raum Bewässerung: 2* bewässert mit Dünger mit den o.g. Mengen, 1 mal pures Wasser Purolyt Besprühung: 1 mal Besprühung Fast Plants Spray: 1 mal Controlling: Grow Control Dünger: Greenbuzz Nutrients Licht: Pro Emit Vollspektrum Abluft: EC Carbon Active 750 m3 Danke an Greenbuzz https://greenbuzznutrients.com/de/ Ihr bekommt 25 % Rabatt bei der Nutzung des Codes auf der GB Homepage https://greenbuzzliquids.com/de/shop/ Code: GD42025 (Mindestbestellwert 75€)

She ready to harvest ...the focus is the other two now.. the same stain look very promising now she getting into flowering branches are turning a bit purple.....just have to watch the purple paralysis n see wat she becomes

All from fridge 24 hr shot glass ro and h2o2. All popped. Substrate is coco amended with dr. Earth and other goodies. Was wet and set in tent 48hrs. Letting these grow into the wet coco until the top is dry. Lights are 300 par about which is max for babies i think...

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Tag 63 - Ende der 9. Woche. Die Blüten entwickeln sicher super und duften extrem. Der Hauptstamm wird schwer, sodass ich die Pflanzen etwas stützen muss, damit sie nicht biegen. Das Harz an den Blüten hat diese Woche nochmal deutlich zugelegt. In dieser Woche habe ich den Dünger angepasst und Big Bud durch Overdrive ausgetauscht um die Blüten zu härten. Diesen Vorgang werde ich vermutlich nächste Woche nochmal wiederholen und dann langsam aber sicher mit dem spülen beginnen. Wir beginnen nun mit der 7. Blütenwoche. An Tag 57 wurde die Pflanze gedüngt. Nährstofflösung: 2 ml/l - B-52 Advanced Nutrients. 4 ml/l - pH Perfect Sensi Bloom Part A 4 ml/l - pH Perfect Sensi Bloom Part B 2 ml/l - Bud Candy Advanced Nutrients. 2 ml/l - Overdrive Advanced Nutrients. Davon hat die Pflanze 1l an Tag 57 erhalten.

I changed my lights on 12/12, cause i mean that plant hasn't rudelaris gen, or i disabled that gen with HST what i did in week 7. Continueing with guanokalong bloom, but i have a little bit and i dont want this for my next grow, so i buy some biobizz bloom and topmax, they deliver it ot me in a few days. Than i flush and start again with biobizz.

Clones did well. Cutting were placed directly in moist grow plug and I kept the best performers. Moving them to temporary containers. Defoliated anything at or below head level. Let's start flowering some plants.

I have to say that the result of the Blue Dream was not so good because of myself. I probably watered it too much at the beginning, but I was able to save it. Very resinous buds, but the many sugar leaves in the flowers are pain in the ass. If that doesn't bother you, this is a top strain.

the lady are feeling good seems to be promising and start to form the bud structure and begin the trichomes production whit loud terps

Another week another diary we are keeping busy in these difficult times spending some extra time with our ladies and we also started a new diary we really appreciate if you can check it out and give us a like as for these ladies we added hy-pro Generator to the mix this is a new hy-pro additive which helps with maximum growth, protection against stress, strengthens the immune system and leaves no residue in the water again we are amazed with the quality of the hy-seeds, the plants look really great and the flower development is off the charts the combination of hy-seeds and the hy-pro nutrients created a winning team we removed the bottom 30% of the leaves and twigs so that the plants does not put effort in the little flowers that get trown away anyway that was basically it for this week Talk soon Stay safe, stay green Cheers, Nibameca