Week 10

Cream Mandarine XL-Auto #2 / FOOP Nutrients ======WEEKLY GOALS ======= 🌞Environment - 80F and 50%Humidity - using Humidfyer as needed. 💧 Feeding - Feeding with FOOP Canna Organic Nutrient Line 🍃Training / Keeping Stems Stable and Strait 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between product each month for Integrated Pest Management. 🔅 Vegetation & Flower Kingbrite 240W QB288 v3 LM301H 4000k+ 660nm Red x2 - Maintianing 575 PPFD ========Plant Update=========== 🌱 Plant - Week 6 started today, the plants are doing great very healthy, will need to do another IPM treatment in the mornting. =========================== ▶️Monday 03.29.21 / These girls are re well into flower, they are soundly in the 9/10 week glide path, they should start building up this week, may need to remove a few more leaves. ▶️Tuesday 03.30.21 / These look great every day, and have gotten too tall!! Feeding about 30 ounces per day. ▶️Wednesday 03.31.21/ Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Thursday 04.01.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Friday 04.02.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Saturday 04.03.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Sunday 04.04.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day.

Stunning looking lady, this plant looks great after 3 weeks since planted, great development, beautiful leaves, and everything is on point at the moment, let's see how this lady performs this 2021 outdoor season!

Flush week! Actually she was flushed for 12 days, I want the best from that strain, so I'd like to avoid any nutrients left in my buds. She's a real beauty, showing her various colors upon her foliage and her buds. Trichomes are now exactly as I wanted them to be, so I'm going to harvest that lady now 😎

So these blueberry plants are looking really nice. Not as nice as the rockstar clones, but nicer then the Purple Haze plants. I moved them to the back of the tent after the leaf strip (apparently I forgot to take a picture of one) and put the purple haze in there place. Cant wait to see how they turn out. Happy growing

I've been taking off all the lower shoots coming off the main stems. I don't want to lose sight of the main colas I'm focusing on. Once we're in flower I'll start leaving more of the side branches, at this stage none will reach the light by the end of flower. I'd rather do the hard pruning now before the switch. I'm going to keep them in veg for another week. The mainline structure is working really well.

Hello guys.I m in 4th week with this beauty and she looks fine.I was expecting to get more height this week and I think that she flowers too early.I hope I m wrong 😟

Day 43. Light is on max output, heat enormous and they RUN !!!! thought intensity will stop them a bit , but i think i do only worse ... We have +30 heatwave in UK, i live in attic , so for 4 more days everything will be out of control. Watered today. 6.3 phed water. I love simple and affordable Mars Hydro products, if you can cope with heat TSL2000 can do magic in your tent ! Will update after heat wave us over. Should be in 4 days back to +20 ;))) Day 45. They GROW !!!! Distance is insanly small, but i have 30 cm of space left, wont move light for a week, then i will try to have 20 cm at least again. Planing last top up, need two more waterings before it, so it should be on last day of this or first of next week. Thinking to take down all LST at that time, need pots to breath better, too thin fabric, they dont keep form. Day 47. Drink every two days !!! 4 liters goes to nothing !!! Huge, still streching, tops almost rubbing TS2000, heat 30 inside, humidity 65-68 ..... will need heavy clearing again !!! Bomb getting stacked !!! Happy Growing !!!!

Hi all! So I started adding PK 13/14 this week , only 0.5ml/lt, I haven't notice such crazy growth or more sugary flowers so far, anyway they look nice. One of them is showing some light brown spots which I think it's a K overfeeding due to the 13/14, what do you think? I'm watering every 2 days but humidity levels went higher so I need to use a de-humidifier and I'm obtaining 7lt water every 2 days from the tank. They look very well, I'm waiting now for my magnifier to arrive so I can check em cuz I think 2 of them are almost ready to cut. I think I gonna start adding only ph'ed water from now on, soil has bat guano as well so I think they will have enough nutrients to keep growing so far. Thanks a lot everyone ,this community is amazing, cyA next week!

It has been water only this week. The plants have pulled the chlorophyll from the leaves and in turn I have pulled the spent leaves. I will harvest the plants during this next week. The back right plant has finished fully but the front left plant could probably go another 10 days. So 5 more days seems like a fair compromise. These plants come from mix pack auto seeds. I have no idea what they are. However I took lower buds off the plants and put them in my dry herb vaporiser. 100 degrees Celsius to remove the moisture, then I vaped the buds at 180 degrees Celsius. The back right plant smells like grapefruit and tastes like grapefruit with a fizz. It gives me a pleasant stoney effect. The buds feel sticky and gritty on the fingers. I’m calling it a Paloma cocktail. The front left plant smells like orange juice and tastes like orange juice with a creamy finish. It gives me an uplifting energetic effect. The buds also feel sticky and gritty on the fingers, no grease. I’m calling it a OJ crème. The seeds I spotted on the back right plant look fairly immature, so not really an issue. Therefore I recommend the mix pack auto seeds, as they offer good value, especially when picked up at buy 1 get 1 promo time. The biobizz light mix soil in conjunction with bio grow and bio bloom have been super easy to use and have really allowed the genetics to shine. I first used biobizz 6 years ago. I then went down the rabbit hole of amending my own soils and using ferments and teas. Nothing ever stays the same and so can never be replicated. I recommend using biobizz for simplicity and replication of results. So I will chop, dry, cure and report back in a couple of weeks or so, with final dry weight and thoughts.

This is a purple haze clone I received on 3/23. She has been topped and trained in prep 4 scrog!! She received her first @gaiagreenorganics all purpose 4-4-4 feeding on 4/23. Also installed scrog on 4/23. She received her second dose of 4-4-4 on 5/23. Installed Marshydro tsw2000 on 5/31. She received a 15 tablespoon dose of Gaia green worm castings on 6/2.This is what she looks like today! 💡 Grow Sponsor💡 @marshydroled__amazon @marshydronnier #marshydro #TSW2000 #rvagrown ,#rvagrower , #cannabisgrower , #homegrown , #hightimes , #weed4ptsd , #weed4veterans , #veterangrown , #tricomes , #ledgrown , #weedstrains , #indoorgrow , #indoorgrown , #tentgrown , #supportlocal , #growlocal , #letsgrowrva , #weedismedicine , #420 , #veterangrower , #purplehaze , #sativa , #sativastrain

12/7 Week five and in full flower. Runoff was way high 1400-1700 ppm this accounts for the tiny white tips on new growth. Increased amount to 0.5 gal once a day but may have o go back to twice a day. Still on half/grow half/bloom until the stretch plays out still trying to hit 700ppm of feed without runoff exceeding upper limits so feed alone is running 600ppm to counter the hard water. Once I have a handle on the runoff will up nuets. After some thought and a bit of reading I decided to do this as a root drench and fertilized flush to remove all salts from the pot. 0.5 gal 5.7PH CT Grow AB / Kangaroots /Fish Sh!t with @50% runoff - 950ppm (unadjusted 750ppm adjusted) in / and 1020ppm out. See how things look in 24 hours. 12/12 Feed set to 800ppm still half grow half bloom 12/13 Some pics lights on just getting the hang of it Nuets now just the Coco Tek half grow half bloom 800-ish ppm 15% runoff 2.5 quarts 5.9PH at lights on

I’ve added VPD to my dashboard and have now dialed in my climate for a perfect VPD. Home assitant dashboard controlling lamp, up/down humidity and cooling. Exhaust is going to be used to scrub the air and back into the tent. After adding C02 I’m now doing a sealed grow to take better control of the environment. I was dealing with high temps I put a evaporative cooler just in case if I need to up the humidity or lower the temps.

Coming along, for got to put calmag in prior feeding.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

420FASTBUDS FBT2106 WEEK 8 This purple beautiful lady is shining bright forsure. Definitely loving the colors it's starting to produce on the flowers. Smelling like Pine & Berries a little so for. I backed down the nutes on feeding to only calmag after I started noticing some burn tips on the leafs. All in all Happy Growing

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Day 106 14/10/24 Monday Their colours are really coming through now 🤩 Nearing their end now, possibly another week after this ✌️💚 Picture and video update 📸💚 Day 108 16/10/24 Wednesday Another run through of de-chlorinated tap water and flawless finish all to pH 6.3. Giving 0.3L again daily as there not drinking half as much now. Picture and video update 📸💚 Day 110 18/10/24 Friday Divine Seeds Overdose has been Harvested. Check her own diary on my page for full results. I moved the others into my now cleaned down 1.2m x 80cm under 660w hps to finish off. Day 111 19/10/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water and flawless finish at pH 6 today.300ml Day 112 20/10/24 Sunday De-chlorinated tap water and flawless finish at pH 6 again 300ml. I have had an extremely busy week. I'll upload videos and pictures tomorrow on a fresh week... Wait and see the colours 😋💚