Hello growers, starting another week. Weeks 2, 3 and 4 are gone, now I close the application of BIG BUD and continue only with BIG CANDY and SENSI BLOOM. I would like to ask a question with you, I know that the days to start the flush would be the 15 days before the harvest but which week should I start? I would be very grateful if you would help me commenting below. Gratitude family!!! 🙏 Day 62 - Hello growers, day 62 showing a video of how she is. Would you like your help, when should I get this girl's flush? In the seed information it says that her lifespan is 75 days to be ready, I see her I think I will spend a little more than 75 days, but let's wait for the next episodes.

Muy contento con el resultado! Quizas podia dejarlas unos dias mas, pero tambien se vienen las fiestas y sin marihuana no esta muy bueno jaja Ahora a secar y esperar esos resultados

Day 118. Girl is on pure water diet, but chunked up , branches heavy just my yellow leaves OCD force to hate her a bit ;)))) One week left for her, next Wednesday or Thursday she is wet chopped and dried . Last Lemonade OG, all went 110 g +. Nuts strain, amazing journey with all Autos, it was a real mini Insanity sometimes ... Happy Growing !!!

Ein paar Tage nicht da und dann solche Büsche im Zelt. Das hieß heute gehts ran ans defolieren und Scrognetz einspannen. Zudem haben Sie leider einen ganzschönen VPD Schock erlitten. Habe heute morgen also erstmal eine Ladung Wasser mit Cal/Mag und etwas algamic gegossen und die Lampe höher gehängt. Heute abend ging es dann direkt ans defolieren, da ich ehrlich gesagt, die Woche sonst wenig Zeit finden werde. Jetzt sollen Sie sich erholen und ins Scrog einfügen. Achja mein Sorgenkind, die Sfv Og Kush, hat immer noch deutliche Blattvervorfungen. Werde Sie in der Blüte, wohl um meine Paranoia zu beruhigen, täglich nach Hermaphroditmus untersuchen.

La planta cubrió exitosamente toda la superficie, tiene un sistema radicular sano, el único detalle es que cuando se hace el cambio de agua y se quita la red la planta se estresa un poco al volver a colocar la red

Hi there! First week I have looked after the plants alone and they are excellent. Fruit Tree is getting the fastest and the densest buds plant beyond them so I think she is the fastest. No more ferilization for her just clean water every day I am planning to harvest at the beggining of February. Rest of them look fine maturing with time buds getting thick. All good so far back.next week.

Let me know what y’all think I went all out on the training and defoliation 🤟🏻Started adding some molasses into the water schedule there’s a couple that are stunned for sure already budding. Just trying to learn as much as possible thanks gromies! Ps Excuse my long toes🤣

Overall this plant was great to grow, she just grew and was happy doing it the entire time, pretty good yield off a plant that was only about 12inches tall. Seemed to be a lot more resistant to deficiencies then the other two strains this grow. Definitely a great mid-day Smoke!

The purple punch cookies is looking happy. Will be switching them to flower in a week or less. I gave them a flush and fresh nutrients. The humic acid really makes a huge difference in the uptake of nutrients. I am at about half dose on nutrients compared to what I would have to feed without it. Winter is approaching and bringing the low humidity with it. All of the humidifiers I have tried either dont work or I have to constantly refill the tank. So I decided to use my redneck engineering skills to throw this humidifier together. It holds 4 gallons of water and she pumps like a freight train. I have dubbed her the Steam Queen. I got 2 cool mist foggers that put out about 400ml per hour each and used some things I had around to make them a little float. Added an old computer fan to force the mist out through a 2 inch pipe. She won't win any beauty contests but she pumps out plenty of cool moist air. I also upgraded my exhaust to a variable speed for more added environmental control. Just going to do a little more training over the next week then try to make some buds.

Cold snap past few days and my furnace is struggling to keep up, day temps around 75 F night 65 Video is overexposed, shows size difference between a 5 gal fiber pot and 10 gal SIP. 2/3 of the fiber pots did not stretch well, can see the one that did stretch in the back hiding.

I started to scrog The Church (left side of the closet). I topped the plants after the fourth node. Of the 4 Churches, I didn't properly top two of them. These two are looking like they are developing the main cola as well as the two side colas equally, so it seems there are three of them. Serious 6 is growing slowly. Two of the plants are staying small and scrawny. I'm wondering if that is the phenotype or if I messed up. And to top it all of, there was an accident with the Autopots :-(( This is the second time it happened in my AP system: The float gauges in one of the trays got stuck and the water kept flowing. The tray overflowed and the water ran all over my wooden floor. This also happened at night and I only discovered it the next morning. Luckily, the float became unstock at one point of time and the waterflow stopped. If it hadn't, 30 Liters of water in my tank would have caused serious issues. I was going to start the 12/12 flowering cycle next week, but looking at the Serious 6s I will postpone it by at least another week. That way the Church can scrog longer and I assume won't fill up the net as quickly as Serious 6 anyway, since it more bushy compared to the Serious 6 sativas.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Week 6 and these girls got a scrog net added. As the plants are getting extremely heavy. Started to unfold an open up eagle spread style. So had to lend a helping hand. They got a scrog net added an the untrained plant got tied up from tents upper support bars an lower branches got some support also from the net. So far everything is going smoothly. The e680s light is putting in that work work

The BruceBanner3 was nice to grow and we can absolutely her. she produced a lot of buds and brought us a yield of 65g dried. It tastes very delicious, much fruitier than the runtz. Despite a temporary lack of calmag and the wrong ph value, she rewards us with juicy buds You can really taste the terps, we had never smoked anything like it before!

Just another week of flowering. Buds have set pretty good and I will be defoliating/taking clones and pinching off anything that will be larf soon. I think the "mainline approach may be effective.. very even budding across each main shoot. I usually just bend and train until theres enough tops, but they don't always flower evenly. Nute wise, since the buds started, I added in some liquid koolbloom to the mix and stopped the tarantula and Piranha powders. I have been feeding three separate one minute intervals per light period, and they're in one gallons. 2mins a night and they were getting dry, 3 is a bit heavy on the runoff so hoping they start drinking more as they get going more.

Week 2 went well! Plants look pretty good. This week all the fun starts with plant training I'm going to train 1 and let the other go naturally. Stay tuned family!

One with a topping the other one just LST both huge yield!🦖 For the smell its cookie dough,lemon & diesel🍪🍋⛽️ Super sticky buds 🤩

I watered my girl in day 10 with merely 250 ppm and 5.8 pH. Hope it wont cause any nutrient burn ! Update: watering every 1-2 day with 300ppm and 5.8pH.