Flowering is going amazing, this candy cane is growing some very fast weight and caking up with Trichome’s. The sweet and slightly minty berry smell is growing in power day by day, and I’m very happy with how the size of the buds are developing since adding the increase of 2-8-4 and fish bone meal, just a little bit, not too much at all and she’s reacting great, knowing that the candy cane is a larger auto in size makes me a bit sad with the total size of this plant, but in its young age as my very first auto I believe I probably stunted it, but after all this and how she looks now Im more than happy with the growth, yield and quality of it, just speaking now as I do not obviously know how much I Will revive from it, I’m guessing about a ounce. No small bud sites other than maybe one on a lower branch that already has a main top cola on it. The main cola is massive and packing on a lot of size. I’ve switched the light to a hour less now as I am growing 2 photo indica L.A grape and with the season change I am having to fix my temp and humidity more for the photos, so changing to a 17-7 schedule has actually helped quite a lot and also has helped my other autos veg slightly better. But all in all I’m very exited!

Ok

“A” phenotype has the best overall structure and calyx to leaf ratio, is also the tallest. “B” phenotype is 10” shorter than the “A”, definitely has foxtailing in the genes. “C” phenotype is the shortest of the 3, better structure than “B”, not as good as “A”.

Hey there, ola! Week 2 behind. I really like how this grow goes. Girls seem very happy and not much hustle going on. Watering every few days, today watered till a little runoff (tested how the plants reacted to flooding and they are A-OK) Biobizz light mix seems to be packed with nitro just about in the right amount. Not adding any nutes yet and the leaves are big and almost dark green for me it means we are in the zone. Enjoy the timelapse, my first video edited in premiere pro. Almost gave up when i first opened the software it seemed like a cockpit of a spaceship. But done alright i think. Best. Hobby. Ever. Best of luck guys and girls. Merry Christmas!

I preferred to remove my net this week, to more easily access my plants and water them. I hope the branches will hold I cut a lot of leaf this week. I hear different opinions that say it's beneficial others not... At least it will have the advantage of lowering the humidity. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Water: tap water at 300 PPM, I add 0.7G of Hybrid powder and 0.3g of booster PK+ per liter to reach 950PPM and I adjust the PH to 5.8. I watered daily until water drained from the pot (to release nutrients from previous waterings) and I take a 3-4 day watering break to let it dry out before resuming a daily watering schedule. -Daytime temperature: 22-26°C -Night temperature: 20-24°C -Humidity: 50-75% ( Too high but it's hard to lower it... I need advice please contact me if you have :) ) -Lamp: Mars Hydro FC3000. intensity 90% at 35cm from the top leaves -Room: Mars Hydro 100x100x180cm -Extractor: Mars hydro 402 CFM Max. power 3/10 -Substrate : 70% coco, 25% perlite, 5% vermiculite. My instagram : https://www.instagram.com/p/CuMhQ_BsjRP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Looking for MarsHydro equipment for your crop? 🔥 You can use my promo codes! 🙏😻 3% off with "houstone3" for: TS LED Grow Light, Tent, Ventilation 5% off with "houstone5" for: FC&FC-E&SP LED Grow Lights; Grow Tent Kits https://www.mars-hydro.com/?acc=hou-stone

Quinta settimana di fioritura 💪 forza bella mia,vai avanti così e fammi delle belle e grandi pannocchie 🙏🕉️💚💛❤️

Hundred percent germination rate. Started in a glass of water and transferred to Peet pellets after 12 hours. One auto cheese and four auto Chem Og. Used microbial amendments for transplant. Plants are lined along front and back of 3x3 tent under a Spider Farm SF2000 LED light. 4” intake at the bottom and 6” exhaust up at light level. I have the light at 36” and just added clear plastic 1 Liter painters cups as domes and added an oscillating tower fan per GD community recommendation. I’ll update with a oscillating clip fan. Running at 70F and 65% & rising humidity. I need to detach the humidity sensor from the frame and slip it under one of the domes. I’ll update the humidity once I do.

She's looking very beautiful in her 3rd week of flower right now,I'll be topping her on her 4th week probably.looks very healthy,I think she's loving the soil organic mix I prepared for her,

Lets show my lights to this Baby, Hasse going bad) Le voy dar todo ,lo que es impensable para muchos)

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Floracion (Tiempo estimado 64 dias) Quinta Semana de Floracion 05/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se hace cambio de solucion nutritiva, con parametros ajustados a la semana, Se hace Lavado de cubetas, tuberias, bomba, humificador, y perifericos, Se realiza limpieza completa del indoor, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos, el olor es mas penetrante pero gracias al filtro de carbono se mantiene fuera del indoor sin aroma, empiezan a observarse mas el crecimiento de los Cogollos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 06/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 07/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 08/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Realize por la mañana riego foliar con agua de osmosis sobre toda la planta, quedo empapada, al iniciar el ciclo de luz y verificar la planta se noto lama dentro del recipiente de la solucion y canastilla hidroponica por arriba y abajo de ella, La unica accion que realize fue quitar la malla de guia para que subieran los tallos y no se contaminaran, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 09/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se realizo limpieza de la mold en el cubo hidroponico, acomode los aspersores de modo que el chorro de agua diera al mold, cambie la bomba de oxigeno, se nota un cambio por la tarde considerable, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 10/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se observa mejoria considerable en las raices y el cubo hidroponico, Se limpia el prefiltro del extractor de 8 pulgadas, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 11/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se nota una mejora considerable en la raiz y en el cubo de reserva, Parece haber desaparecido el moho, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad.

Mid Flwr

Week 3/6 veg: 1/1/25 Just watering and twisting/bending branches every couple of days. Not putting a lot of effort into training in hopes of creating taller plants within my 6 week veg timeframe. They are loving the slow release nutrients and the extra space for roots Veg tea in a few weeks Light at 40% but will be increased next week

Still getting abit attacked by slugs, got to go down tomorrow with some copper tape and slug pellets. Lost few inner nodes and the 2 tops 1 is lagging behind the other. But gave a big feed so hoping will help and once these slug deterrents down they won’t endure anymore stress. That’s all this week. Happy growing🌱

Grow diary 11 Stage 1 Days 1-10 By day 4 all was looking good, she had a few roots coming out the bottom of the cube. Day 6 I transplanted her to the 3 inch rockwool cubes that had been soaked for 15 mins in this stage nutrient solution and left to drain for 15 mins, then she went into the bigger propagator. Day 10 she had roots coming out the bottom of the 3 inch cube. Over the last few days she has been getting more exposure to the fan, with the lid of the propagator the humidity is on the low side, but i want to get some air movement around her. She has grown o.k over the last 10 days. She looks healthy enough and is where I would expect her to be in growth. Temp Max 30.6c Avg 26.6c Min 21.2c Humid Max 85% Avg 69.7c Min 45.7% VPD Max 1.86 Avg 1.03 Min 0.44 Hopefully back in 10 days.

Plant A (left side) started pushing through the medium first after 48 hours. Plant B germinated successfully at 96hrs but due to cold climate and moisture in the seed the seed got too cold and turned to mush. At 96hrs Plant A had reached 1.25" and had started to spread the first set of leaves. It is now approximately 2" tall and the first fan leaves are about 1/3" long. Growth is steady and effortless for this girl. So far the self watering set up, grow light, and medium have been treating plant A great. After 60hrs she became fully exposed. Plant B germinated as stated before and died, Plant C was planted 5 days into the germination week of Plant A. No pre-soak, just dry seeds dropped directly into the medium. Miracle Grow myth has so far been proven wrong (performance organics, not regular potting soil). In addition to the set up, I found a water bottle diffuser I have on a 6hr rotation (6 on and 6 off) that I found for $9USD at a grocery outlet. Humidity now steady at 31% on the gauge and about 65% Relative Humidity. Temps sit steady around 68-71°F. Shooting for 360g or 180g from each plant utilizing LST. We are seeing if organic miracle grow has enough nutes for an autoflower, with 3 months of nutrients as stated from the bag it should end up timing out perfectly for harvest time with no flushing needed as nutrients will already be used up.

COSMOS F1 CBD ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS This lady was my first grow in a solo cup from start to finish so I was satisfied with the grow. Knowing she would flip about 5 weeks and growing in organic soil I knew she would not get that big. She still produced frosty dense buds and was about a foot tall. Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! THANK YOU ROYAL QUEEEN SEEDS!! COSMOS F1 CBD/ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS

Beginn Woche 8 Blüte Seit vorgestern (Tag103) bekommen die beiden Fade bis zum Ende. Bin da wirklich mal gespannt 🤞 Tag108 Es wird richtig Bunt im Zelt 😍😍 Wenn die nur von Beginn an so aussehen würden🤗🤗 Aber auch hier reagieren beide wieder komplett unterschiedlich auf den Dünger.... Trichome werden langsam milchig. Schätze mal noch 1-2 Wochen. Tag109 Die rechte Dame wird Ende der Woche soweit sein. Schätze Samstag oder Sonntag sollte sie soweit sein. Tag110 Die rechte wurde heute gespült und vom AutoPot genommen. Samstag oder Sonntag ist es dann so weit 🍾

They are coming along very nicely. I took my first cutting from the mother this week. I cut her back to the 4th node and began cloning the cutting. I trimmed the leaves and branches below the top and put her in a net pot with about an inch of her stem extending below the pot that was dipped in clonex gel. I put the net pot in my veg tank and hopefully I’ll get roots in the next week or two. Thanks again for looking!

DAY 35 FLOWERING: Hi all. I hope you have been busy and stress free since the last update. It has been a fairly straight forward week for the ladies this week with all their efforts now being focused on building bud sites and developing terpenes. The smell has really picked up with any contact leaving a smell behind that is so candy swèet. I have also deliberately not watered for the past 6 days to stress them a little with a drying out and panic. As horrible as that may sound , it is to hopefully push the ladies to produce more oil/trichromes to stay supple and put out their scent to drag the pollinators in quicker. This has had a very positive effect on the Amnesia haze with a definable build up . Not as noticable on the Girl scout cookies but will hopefully be of a similar effect there too. The #1 GSC needed the watering yesterday though along with the critical cheese. Both had begun to show signs of too much stress so I gave them a biosys tea/ecothrive charge and top dress with life-cycle. They looked a lot happier 24 hrs later ( today) The other ladies will be fed later with their usual feeds but i will also give them a little biosys tea too. The drought has matured the buds on the G.s.c quite quickly and hopefully they will send lots of new pistils to refresh the flowers and bulk them up again. A very stable week with no real issues. At the halfway point now with the bud porn the next stage. Life didn't get much better. Lol Be safe and well