Week 10, Week 10 has been fun. The buds are becoming denser and starting to almost look like a finished product. I am planning on harvesting the plant the first week of next month, so three weeks or so and counting! I am adjusting the tie downs twice a week trying to get the buds as much sunlight as possible. I am watering every 3 days with 6.0 ph water. I have been putting a teaspoon of FloraNova in the water with a tablespoon of molasses mixed in but it appears she received a little nutrient burn. I'm not to worried about it because I wanted to make sure the flower sites received enough nutrients to make some dense dank buds. It isn't a huge burn but a little. As a result I started mixing only half a teaspoon of FloraNova in the water to make sure any future burn doesn't happen. I am excited about the plant, she is starting to look like a thiccy ha I am probably going to starting flushing in three weeks. Let me know if you have any questions/concerns/comments. Happy growing Growmies 🙌

Past couple weeks has been a struggle but is panning out to be ok....been very slack on posts...sorry peeps. The ladies are all in flower.1 is older the other 2 are around 12 days behind but they are looking nice after lst training and PK increase. The smell is rising,very sweet like lollie like smell,excited to harvest in a couple weeks. https://growdiaries.com/grower/420highlife https://youtube.com/channel/UCKvjJ_S8nRI2wTc4cx_O1KQ https://myfastbuds.com/?a_aid=616a33e294e50 With every order you will get a free seed Join the community on GROWDIARIES It’s a awesome place to meet cool people, document your grow and learn a lot from fellow growers, happy growing 😊🌱

Day 134 - We enter the 12th week of flower. I forgot to mention that I gave 2 gallons of water again yesterday, though the runoff seemed to be about half as much as the previous time that I watered. I did topdress with a touch of new Mother Earth Coco Peat, but I wouldn't have imagined it would have soaked up as much additional water as it did. I imagine doing so will give the plants just a touch more nutrients while just watering, and should hopefully allow me to at least get through this week, possibly a touch longer. The trichs all appear cloudy, but the pistils still stand up a bit much, so I want to take this as long as possible, without extending it too much further. Day 135 - Seems that last little top dress of medium has slowed/stopped what seemed to be the start of autumning off. I'm actually kind of happy with that, as it may allow me to get another couple days of finishing out of the plant. While I don't want to wait much longer, I would like to see some more pistils receding/turning color. Day 136 - Watered today, just under 2 gallons. After a couple days of getting lots of runoff, I feel safe that most of the medium will be cleaned of any salt residues that may have been left. At this point, I will basically just water until runoff for the last feed or two. Day 137 - As I wait for these last few days to count down to harvest, I can only think that it is hard to 'plan' a grow before you start. These beans were listed as 8-10 weeks, I started flowering at the beginning of March, and figured by the end of April I should be close to a harvest. Well, as we sit here, close to the end of May, it is finally getting close to that harvest, though at times I feel like I should be waiting multiple more weeks on the plant. Day 138 - I don't have much to say about today. I started a new job tonight, working the overnight shift, so I will end up only getting a couple hours of 'day' time with the plant now in her final days. She will be watered tomorrow when I get home from work. Day 139 - This new job is less than ideal for the flowering times I currently have, but there is minimal (probably 7-10 days) time left before I chop her. Lights are on from 10p-10a, and I work from 10p-6a, not getting home until close to 7. She was watered when I got home today, and so as long as she doesn't fade out too quickly, I will be chopping around the 1st of June. She will approach 90 days of flower time from a listed 56-63 day strain. I have said it many times, but still a waiting game at this point. Day 140 - The 20th week of growing, 12th week of flower is now complete. It appears that the leaves are slowly starting to yellow a bit more. Getting close! She is either going to get harvested this weekend, or next weekend (figure it will just be easier to do when I'm not working).

Day 36: I bend the branches even more, cut off the top leaf that covered 2 buds, one of them is very small, I hope to give it at least a little chance to grow. This is a victim of a broken branch.

5/3/24 cultivars listed in order of video appearance #1 First to pop. Last to lose shell. Her leaves are SUPER short and thick. About medium height #2 most consistent. Popped 4 hrs after her sister #1. The most consistent in growth. Leaves are thin and medium length #3 was the slowest to pop but once she did, she shot up and surpassed her sisters in size, in about half the time it took the others.

She's been the bushiest plant so far. I'm excited for this girl. I topped and defoliated every plant. I'm trying to form them into canna-bushes. Hopefully I'm doing the correct training procedures to make them all grow that way both indoors and out.

So missed a lot of weeks in between here and now as life got busy, its ok, shit happens. Gotta focus on the real world and no so much diaries on a site for free... Plants are doing well. had a bit of a issue with some PH in the medium, it got out of wack, or something in the fertilizer reacting with something in the sprayer chamber, noticed before when adding the nutrient solution into the sprayer there was some steam/mist/vapour coming off of it. During this I accidentally over used PH down and then used some PH up to fix it, but I think it did not like this. The result was some leaf burning on all the plants, it did not like that. So now I know to toss it out and start again if I can. I also bleached out the sprayer at beginning but thought I rinsed out all the remaining bleach, even ran a Vit C through it as it will neutralize bleach but I might have missed the lip of the sprayer or part of its manual air pump handle mechanism. Also noticed I was underfeeding them a fair bit in veg weeks, was so scared of stressing them out into early flower it happened anyway. I increase feeding to aorund 700ppm on my pen or aorund 1.4EC, ideally I'll stay at 1.2-1.4 EC for the rest of the grow unless they showing they really want more. The runoff has been stable on PH and about 200PPM different from whats going in, meaning they are eating when I am giving them and they may want more. at least some of them. I have a feeling a small amount of burn will happen on the smaller ones at 1.4EC. Well see how it goes.

Growing great. been adding calmag to the mix and she bounced back. Still a little yellow but the buds are growing nicely. Great trichome production To the touch it smells SO much like blueberries Im blown away and theres still more maturing to do! Excited to see how much more she fills out.

This plant was trained around week 5 then hasn’t been left for nature to do the rest, and it’s amazing how quick she has grown and stretched

9/3 Shook the plants off this morning and took a few pics and did a video. Let's see if it uploads. Plants are doing good. Toasted toffy is due for another plant doctor application tonight. It seems like I'm losing lots of leaves. Looking back on my other diaries I guess it's normal. BUT I could've had pest/pathogen problems then. I'm over thinking it. Toasted toffy only needs a few more weeks. It will definitely outvrun the disease. The nugs are super dense too. The plant in the 50 is loosing leaves faster than I'd like. It is also one of the furthest along. The big leaves that turn yellow look like it's a calcium/magnesium issue. The stalk and branches are all bright green and healthy looking. So are the flowers. It could be something below the soil. I couldve been overwatering but last time I waited until it drooped. It will be fine though. I'm happy with my results so far. Not my best or biggest year but I'm going to put in the work and Mae these plants produce the best quality cannabis that im able too. Also I think plant doctor may kill insects. K bicarb with dawn does too. I've found a few dead bugs like flies and pillars. Pillars actually seem to be gone. Not many moths either. Unless I see them I'm not going to treat them for it. This is that magical time where you get to watch the plant produce those beautiful flowers. Despite some small problems I'm very grateful for what I have. I've worked hard for it. 9/4 Watered everything but the sherb pie which was still heavy with leaves yellowing. It's tied for the furthest behind in flower with the seed in the 10. I treated the toasted toffy with 1/4 gallon (4tsp/gallon) of plant doctor. I avoided flowers as much as possible and tried to just get a few leaves. I used the rest on the soil. I just wanted it to absorb a little faster. That's why I sprayed the foliage. It's not 4 days it's 14 days when tje plant doctor just leaves behind a bunch of potassium and phosphorus after it's done its job. Can't be used in a 14 day interval with copper and I think that's what treats septoria best. I dontvknow if I can use that in flower. Doesn't really matter. Things are looking good. Plant Doctor and the K bicarb seem to be doing there job effectively as long as i stick to the application times. I made a short video but didn't upload. I'll try again but I may have some medical emergencies that need to be dealt with. If not I should defoliate and tie down some event horizon branches. I thought about treating the other event horizon as well. I'm not positive it has septoria but it wouldn't hurt anything to be practice. It AT LEAST has a couple suspucuous spots. I smelled a skunk as soon as I got out of my car. It can't get in my grow but I might put out traps to catch it. We'll see how it goes. Video seems to be uploading. It's at 31% so I'll wait for it. I think I've got like four or five weeks on my toasted toffy and one event horizon and the one in the 50 that I THINK is red runtz. That's good that I'll have different plants to harvest at different times. It's seeds from here on out though. It was hard to find info on some of the strains I'm growing but they all have ONE thing in common. They are EXOTIC and they are at least MODERATELY DIFFICULT to grow. AT LEAST lol. Last year I picked the right seefs and strains and it greatly helped. Still, if these are difficult strains to grow, then I'm doing a good job. EDIT: I WAS STONED BUT IM PRETTY SURE I TREATED THE PLANT IN THE 50 WITH PLANT DOCTOR. DIDNT SPRAY BUDS. TRIED TO GET THE LEAVES THEN USED THE REST ON THE SOIL. I REMEMBER BECAUSE A STREAM ACCIDENTLY HIT A COUPLE LEAVES ON THE HUGE PLANT IN THE 10. 9/5 Sherb Pie was light and drooping. It's not to far in flower and still seemed moist yesterday with a little bit of weight. I watered it a gallon. I defoliated a little but I need to go through that plant. I have a bunch of plants that need a little work. The 50 gal seed is losing lots of leaves. I must not be feeding it enough, overwatering or maybe theres some sort of lock out. The plant looks nice and healthy. Leaves just turn yellow and die. Looked like a calcium or magnesium deficiency but i saw a septoria spot. I wouldn't think I've over feed or locked out using the small amounts of nutes I've used. It will be time to feed again soon. It's in the middle of flowering and still has leaves. I'm hoping things work out. I just have an anxiety disorder and worry too much. I'm GOING To have a great harve! I just need to keep moving forward and putting in the work. 9/6 What a fucking shitty morning. I did research on how to keep skunks out of your garden. Because I smelled it and the neighbors shot a few. Dad put traps out and it caught one. It wasn't a no spray trap so I approached it with him. Both had tarps. I kept telling him to throw it while I was distracting it bur he got a cramp and only got it over half. The half away from my garden. It's pretty far and down in a field but still. We had talked all morning about how to release it. I offered to drive their dog to take it for a walk so his alcoholic girlfriend wouldn't spiteful put the dog on its run. It wouldn't be sprayed but I made it out like it would ruin my plants. Picked dad up and got him to the bathroom. In that 30 seconds the stupid bitch grabbed the dog and brought it outside despite me YELLING "Can't you wait 5 minutes!? We've been dealing with this all morning. I heard fuck you in my head and she did it anyway. Dog ran at the skunk barking and it sprayed. Not a lot but I was fucking pissed. She's a full blown alcoholic and doesn't like me around early or the fact that my old man's 80 and house is mine. Anyway I got back and there was NO SKUNK SMELL. AT ALL! I WATERED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE AND FED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE. ILL FEED AND WATER THAT TOMORROW. WATERED A GALLON WITH A QUART OF FEED. Researched my strains found out they were all "difficult" to grow. One year ago to the Day I cut my first tenth planet. I got a couple close to a few weeks but the others will be later. If I can pull this off though I'll have some crazy quality! Grateful for what I have that's for sure! I doubled beastie bloom this time. We'll see how it goes.nothings uploading. I did some vids a pictures but I'll have to upload today. 9/7 I think it rained last night. I forgot to water and feed the sherb pie but I'll do it when I get back. I shook off the plants the best I could. I need to get the leaf blower out now and put it to use. Buds are swelling like crazy. GMOs are very tight flowers. Same with the event horizon. Rock hard nugs. With the gmo's I'm not worried. The were monster cropped so they have enough leaves even if some do die off. The toasted toffy only has like four weeks left. Same with the event horizon. The plant in the ten is the furthest behind but it's extremely healthy. I removed some leaves from the bottom and large fan leaves. The plant in the 50 I hope finishes before it loses all its leaves. I treated it with plant doctor and SOME people strip their plants but I don't. I'm grateful for what I've got. Won't be the biggest harvest but WHEN I make it to the finish line I will have some incredibly potent strains. I'm proud of myself to even get these to finish seeingvthe level of difficulty on cultivation. I'm trying to upload some stuff. We'll see. 9/8 Apparently it rained pretty hard last night. Took forever to go through and shake everything off and defoliate what needs it. Sherb pie is praying to the sky and almost totally purple. It's flowering so much more in the last couple days. Everything has. Even the one in the ten is stacking up! I defoliated most of what needed it and I was soaked. I noticed a branch on the middle gmo that was getting heavy and starting to break away from the trunk. It wad wobbly but I don't think there was a break un the Cambrian. I made a sling with rope (couldn't find zip ties) and I pulled it tight amd secured that branch to the tomato cage. GMO buds are hard as rocks. Everything is in overdrive. They liked that beastie bloom. I have cha ching but nothings ready for that yet I don't think. We'll the event horizon and toasted toffy might be I'll have to check. It's been beautiful today but not too hot. Lots of wind which is good. I'll upgrade supports as needed. Flowers are progressing at an amazing rate. Weather is supposed to be great the next few days. I'll keep this updated. 9/9 Had to shake the plants off. WATERED EVERYTHING BUT THE SHERB PIE WHICH WAS REALLY HEAVY. It's also lost a lot of leaves and the majority of leaves have turned purple. Toasted toffy and event horizon and red runts are pretty far into flower. I tried to take some pictures. Even the ten is blowing up! That looks like I'm going to switch to cha ching when flower gets further. Trichs are developing nicely on the ones further in flower. This year it's going to be quality over quantity. All these strains are ranked HARD to grow but have insane cannabinoid profiles and high THC %'s. So if I can keep it together for another month I'll be golden. Looking forward to it. This is the fun part. It's also the anxiety provoking part. I've learned a lot just since joining grow diaries.

Was a wonderful run !

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

Hey guys . A wonderful week goes by with a super growth :-). After I topped it for the first time last week, it recovered very quickly and showed great growth. I don't think I will use topping again on the lady because I should slowly blossom with a few other women :-) think it will be ready in the next 7-14 days for Flowering 👍. This week it was poured 3 times with 1 l each time (for nutrients, see table above). The tent was cleaned and the health of all women was checked :-). After the photos she was sprayed again with neem oil so that the last little tripse disappeared. Even if you can't see any more trips I will spray it one last time next week to make sure :-). I wish you all a happy new year 2022 ☺️. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 A thank you for this wonderful strain goes out to Herzog https://instagram.com/herzog030?utm_medium=copy_link and the Exotic Seeds team You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. You can buy this Strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/ Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼👆🏼

Week 4 in the books. She started throwing pistils this week. Cruising along and handling the training like a champ. She's drinking about a cup of water daily and her roots are thriving in the runoff caught in the 2nd cup, which gets dumped before each new watering. Strong structure and starting to get a little smell. She smelled like celery leaves up to this point. I've raised her closer to the light to increase light intensity.

So far so good. Frost Banger is showing some purple hues and the Purple Haze is full on developing purple buds. The FBA2504 is my fav in this run shes tall and still growing, looking healthy except she has a lil Phosphorus deficiency at her top leaves but other than that they all are doing good. We are already on day 43 with this run!

WEEK 9 My Fume Pop is doing so-so. Because of the trembling, I had to remove quite a bit for safety, and the plant has partially pollinated itself. I can already spot a few seeds. Other than that, it looks healthy, and I’ll see what I can still make out of it. PPFD: 750µmol/m²/s Water: 3x water 2x nutrient solution Vpd: 1,6Kpa

Week two switch to an AC Infinity 2x4x5 grow tent under a spider farmer SF-2000 200 watt LED grow light. Noticed beginnings of a spider mite infestation. Immediately treated by spraying off with mid-pressure water then sprayed down with a water and dawn soap mixtures. Ran this IPM every other day for the week. Reduced infestation, but need to find a natural or more organic solution. Been looking into Organishield b/c been hearing great things about this non-oil based treatment solution that is used as a foliar spray. Aside from the IPM issue, clones seem to be doing well with exception of the Black Cherry Gas. Taking a while to recover from stress of under watering prior to 1 gallon transplant as well as infestation.

All going very well not a single problem throughout the grow. Finally finished stretching 14.1.24 Top feed 1.5L each 10ml Pk 5-8 4ml/L Bio heaven 4ml/L Acti Vera 2ml/L alg a mic 1ml/L topmax 1ml/L Fish mix Recharge 4 spoons Ph6.1 17.1.24 Dos si dos front 102cm Mimosa 71cm Dos si dos 86 Runts on middle right 73 Far right runts 68 Far left runts 110 before supercrop