Going into 36 hour darkness before harvest..🍨

10 days of darkness during the flush begins. Had great results with Wanda and her genetics. Blessed for a first grow. Cut Wanda down at the end of the week. She’s now drying. I will be giving a thorough review for my harvest diary. Excited to share what I’ve experienced and learned from this grow.

I started germination of 4 Gelat.Og beans on 29/12/2020. I pre moistened my rockwool cubes with ph balanced water to 6.4. Made sure the plugs were just damp and not soaked. Using a small wooden dowel I increased the size of the plugs pre made holes. Than I sowed my beans into the holes. Ripped off a small piece of rockwool and mulched it up. Lightly filled the holes in with the mulched rockwool. Than stuck the plugs into a misted humidity dome, to complete germination. Shouldn't take anymore than 4-5 days to see some sprouts. Once I see some cotlydon leaves bursting to the surface. I will get the plugs planted into some 1 gallon pots. Plus get these ladies situated into their home. Cant wait! Some background information on my experience with Gelat.Og. I've grown this one out several times and I'm just absolutely in love with these genetics. One of the best terp pallets I've came across. Extremely creamy and rich aroma with a kush kick... majestic! She packs amazing bud structure and is a real branchy hauler. She packs a pretty large stretch, about 200% on average. Plus she has a bit longer of a flower time for a indica dominant... in my experience about 11 weeks. She gets a strong demand for more phosphorus mid flower. A good spike with the pk booster and shes happy as Larry! Another Seedsman masterpiece right her! Amped to dive In to this grow.

Day 43. Girls will get heavy training later today. They grow ... and because of that i had to move 3 Kushes to other tent and i will make separate diary for theirs flowering time. 3 Auto Blue Tooth by Real Gorilla Seeds took theirs place. After todays training i will give them 4-5 days to recover and will send them to flower hopefully on sunday after 24 hours of darkness. Skunks grow bigger plants, than Cheeses, despite theirs quickest germination and obvious lead in first 3 weeks or so ... Day 46. 3 days left to flower, finally made heavy training, way too busy for LST grows... but result is good, girls hopefully will show off in bloom ! Day 47. Girls loved training, 2 more days, 24 hours darkness and tuesday latest flowering starts. Got full feed of Biobizz, feed charts updated. Next feed = water + silica. Happy Growing !!!

For most crops, a slightly acidic soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal because it optimizes nutrient availability. When soil pH rises above 7.0 (alkaline), the concentration of hydrogen ions H+ drops significantly, and they are replaced by calcium, magnesium, or sodium ions on the clay colloid exchange sites. To naturally lower alkaline soil pH, you can add organic matter (carbon-rich materials), which produces weak organic acids as it decomposes. Maintaining this slightly acidic range stimulates a highly active, diverse microbial community; these microbes decompose organic matter and release carbon dioxide CO2, which plants absorb through their roots and leaves to boost photosynthesis and sugar production. Furthermore, the added organic carbon acts like a sponge, drastically improving the soil's water-holding capacity. While soil biological activity does involve cellular electron transport, electrical conductivity (EC) in soil is actually a measure of dissolved mineral salts, not a voltage carried by individual microbes. Soil microorganisms secrete organic acids and chelate metallic and non-metallic minerals, transforming locked-up inorganic compounds into bioavailable organic complexes. Unlike harsh synthetic fertilizers that can dehydrate soil life in high concentrations, these naturally chelated nutrients safely nourish the plant, creating a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem where plants can efficiently synthesize their own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.

girls smell sweet and are stacking like right on top of one another. I had to splay her out and thin some leaves to ensure good airflow. This is the Wedding cake XL so I am starting to see what the buds are going to looks like on this one. Can't get over the fresh sweet smell.

📆 Semana 10 La Sticky Queen alcanza su momento perfecto. Los tricomas muestran el punto ideal, los cogollos están firmes y llenos de resina, y el aroma se presenta en su versión más auténtica: dulce, afrutado y limpio tras el lavado. Ahora toca cortar con calma, mantener buena ventilación y dejar que empiece el secado que definirá su carácter final. ✂️ Momento clave: precisión, calma y máxima calidad. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

Thought I'd show you guys some root growth. The 3 plants in the video are all gorrila zkittlz.... Non of which look the same or are growing the same way lol. No complaints its just interesting too see such difference characteristics from the same strain. GS#3 The tallest isn't as busy but has huge root growth and strong branches (thinest leaves darkest green) GS#1 The smallest the probability the most symmetrical but shortest in root growth (widest leaves and lightest green leaves) GS#2 The Mid size plant is basically a mix of both all round

Últimas semanas para las pequeñas ,a alguna ya la hemos empezado a hacer el lavado de raíces. En el armario empieza a predominar los pelitos naranjas y la resina en los cogollos . En nada prepararemos la tijera para terminar con esta tanda de black domina . El olor está siendo el más notorio de los cultivos que he tenido. Seguimos informando 💚. - en el día 75 desde la germinación sacamos 6 plantas a oscuridad total durante 48h .....serán las 6 primeras en caer ✂️💚.

Unfortunately ive managed to overwater my young plants when experimenting with a new substrate. They looked really droopy with grey edges and yellowing already, so i decided to restart this post for a second try germinating directly into my living soil, like im used to do it. 📆 [23rd of August] Ive put the 2 remaining seeds directly into my homemade living soil. Exactly 72 hours later, on the 26th, one has popped up and showed their germination leafs. I am planning to repot the plants into their "real" home after about 14 days of vegetation. That is gonna consist of 2 substrate levels in a 40l container. The bottom 2/3 is going to be a mix of peat, pumice, sand & vermiculite, the top third is gonna be a layer of my homemade living soil, which is made of 1/3 peat, 1/3 compost and 1/3 pumice 4-12mm & Spelt Husk 50%/50% (measured by volume) amended with kelp meal, sproutet bean meal, basalt rock dust, microbial mushroom biomass (chitin), oyster grit, gypsum, charcoal, bentonite and tiny amounts of bone meal & horn meal. It is my first time growing in a (partly) nutrient poor substrate. I want to do some kind of Experiment this time, as i have not seen many growers use "hydroponic" /nutrient poor substrate paired with the "living soil" approach & organic feeding. I'm trying to boost the growth by providing plenty of oxygen and water like hydroponics does, without needing to use those mineral salt based fertilizers or frequently having to discard "old" substrate. In my mind this idea would work similar to an "Autopot" system, where you prodive water and oxygen mainly in the bottom with some small amounts of nutrients, but feed mainly from the top by amending. Ive seen this in the "Build a soil" youtube channel. I've set their homes up already a couple weeks ago and moistened it to let it cook together, so the living organisms could colonize the bottom subtrate before transplanting. (Edit: Change of plans, those "homes" are gonna go to my Red Hot Cookies instead, ive just transplanted her right into an 8l pot to become a mother. Its made the same way, without the cooking together in prior part.) The plants are going to be fed purely organic/natural material by top dressing with different amendments like fish hydrolysate, basalt, kelp, gypsum, guano and this "living soil - grow" fertilizer i've showed in the pictures. Furthermore i am going to be using homemade nutrient ferments on cannabis for the first time. Ive already tested those on roses, tomatoes and some houseplants. (made from fish, insect, kelp, aloe vera, guano, kitchen scraps, plants etc). My goal is to additionally boost the plant growth by watering these quickly available nutrients. It should contain all the essential minerals plants need, as well as phytohormones, amino acids, vitamins, humic and fulvic acid, beneficial bacteria and fungi. Stay hyped with me! [Edit Week 4] I am not as happy with the results as ive expected it. The plants are looking pretty fine and growing nicely, but i dont see any benefit compared to pure living soil yet. It almost seems like the plant is growing a little bit slower than usual and just needs to be fed more with this method, i dont see any "hydro like" boost happening... Maybe i needed to fertigate her more often and topdress more, i didnt want to try out too much though as i want to keep this plant as a mother. I dont have much time to do experiments with clones, so im probably just going to go for it as planned and hope that they will like the system in the big 40l pots. Probably going to amend the soil heavier then by topdressing more and fertilize with every watering later in veg - until mid/late flower.

8/11 a real drinker been watering a lot more but besides that looking frosty and smells are strong

The plants are doing really good! I made a first light defoliation beginning of the week and continued the LST day by day. So far I broke no branch. I planned to switch to 12h/12h schedule beginning of next week but the plants grew too big already so I decided to switch a bit earlier. Plants heights at the end of the week : ------------------------------------------- Gorilla Cookies : 40cm Purple Lemonade : 32cm Wedding Cheesecake : 44cm

Die Woche verlief insgesamt sehr entspannt und so langsam gewöhne ich mich glaube ich an das veränderte Bewässern durch das Hydrogel. Gegossen wurde 1L an Tag 19, mit Dünger nach Düngeschema und zusätzlich etwas Bittersalz. Da das bisschen Drain dabei bereits einen pH-Wert von ca. 6.7 und nicht mehr über 7 zeigte, habe ich mich entschieden nicht zu spülen, sondern nur normal weiter zu bewässern. An Tag 21 haben wir eine Höhe von 16 cm und die Pflanze hat begonnen Nodie Nummer 6 auszubilden. Die Beleuchtung hängt ca. 24cm über der Spitze der Pflanze und ist auf etwa 350 PPFD eingestellt. Die untersten Blätter fingen heute an etwas hell/gelblich und trockener zu werden, wobei ich noch nicht genau weiß, ob dies auf einen Stickstoffmangel oder Staunässe zurückzuführen ist, oder es einfach nur doch etwas zu warm und zu trocken war in den letzten Tagen. Das Ganze wird auf jeden Fall weiter beobachtet. An Tag 22 erfolgen vermutlich eine erneute Bewässerung und insofern sie dies gut aufnimmt, das erste Topping.

Week 17 Day 1 Getting closer day by day, currently at 1.6 e.c, ph6. Will lower her down to around 1.2/1.4. Still can't see any amber get, just cloudy as Week 17 Day 6 Changed out to winter frost for 7 days, shes getting close

D113. The start of yet another week of flower, but it will probably be the last as chop day is drawing close. I'll check later in the week and let the trichomes decide. I gave each girl two liters of water @ pH 6.6 with FFJ and bokashi juice. ------------------------------ D116. There's not much to report since we're on the home stretch. I looked at the trichomes with my loupe, but I still couldn't see much amber. I'll have another look with a microscope in a few days and decide if I chop this week. I gave each one liter of water @ pH 6.6. ------------------------------ D119. We're at the end of week 11 of flower, and this grow is about done. The trichomes have matured somewhat compared to last week, but I still prefer to see a bit more amber. I'll let the girls go for another few days, but I will definitely chop next week as I need the light for my Amnesia grow. ------------------------------

the plant looks great

Can't wait to see it grow !!

OG Lemoniada – Week 9 Update (Harvest Day 65) The journey with OG Lemoniada has officially come to an end! She was harvested on day 65 of flowering after showing perfect signs of maturity – a thick, frosty main cola, faded fan leaves, and a terpene profile that was just screaming to be locked in. The last week was all about low temps and low RH to bring out color, enhance trichome production, and slow the drying process right from the plant. The citrus-gas aroma was peaking, and the buds felt dense and sticky. Overall, OG Lemoniada delivered everything I hoped for – she’s definitely a keeper. Now it’s time for drying and curing to see how she truly smokes. 💨🔥 🌞 Light schedule: 11/13 💧 VPD: 1.4–1.5 🌡️ Day temp: 24°C | Night: 16°C 💦 RH: ~45% Let the cure begin!

Wachsen, seit gestern wieder CO2 am Start für letzte VEG Woche und dann ersten 3 Flower Wochen

trim, lst