Creciendo muy fuerte! LISTA PARÁ EMPEZAR CON LA FLORACIÓN 😝

So... It's that time again, I was planning on keeping her going for another 11 days but the trichomes are telling me differently, they are around 10% amber, with 70% cloudy and 20% clear. Personally, I like slightly speedy highs, and not such a fan of couch lock. So, she will be chopped in 4 days time (D121 - F74). I have cut back the nutrients, water is around 500ppm now, leaves on the top of the canopy are yellowing. The pistols have turned a pinky brown, and there is a real difference in smell these past few days, proper heavy dank smell. I will be swapping out the water for a final flush on D118 - F71. She will be in the dark for for the last 48 hours and temps will stay at 16ºc. She will be wet trimmed, a cola at a time, and then hung in my grow room in the dark at 55% RH and approx 14 - 16ºc. I will post one last flowering week once she is hung up in 6 days time or so, and then will post harvest details once she's dry enough to go into jars. Happy growing all!

Rolling along, been fighting everything from thrips and aphids to catapillars and pm. Been doing an IPM regimen of Lost Coast and Monterey BT. Also de powder around the base of my plants.

Leaf tucking is getting nowhere in terms of light for the lower growth. This strain is definitely not for the beginner nor for the lazy grower. Can’t wait for the pink buds though! Should be a sight to see! Happy growing! 😎 🌱 Day 32, 09 Feb, Mon ♥️💛💚 Each got 2200 mL 0.7/L of Tiger Bloom and GrowBig 1.0 ml/L of CalMag and Lots of 1.5 ml/L of Big Bloom. Day 35 12 Feb, Thurs ♥️💛💚 Each got 2300 mL Added some Recharge to this 6.4 pH water.

Accustomed to low production, we've been pleasantly surprised by how things are evolving through experimentation. We won't stop experimenting and learning. If anyone has any advice, we're open to comments.

Pictures are the day before harvesting. They were flushed for 2 weeks. Plants are dark purple in color and a very fruity unique smell. Ill harvest and have numbers shortly.

The flush continues, straight tap water. Plant od looking great! Took off some tester buds and drying them. The CM is taking a few weeks longer in flower, looks like it will be another week. I am not surprised at all, this one was on the outside edge of lights. All in all it is doing very good under the circumstances. Freed up some room and now moved it directly under the lights for it's last week or so. Thanks for looking

Muy caros los productos, efectivos pero me sigen pareciendo caros, probaré nuevas gamas! Un saludo

Welcome growfessors to another weekly update on the outdoors grow! LSD and Green Crack are budding nicely, with LSD slightly a head. Both ladies got fed Gaia Green power bloom and they got a big drink of water. Thanks for stopping by growfessors 👽🌳💚

Figured I would start a part two, since GD doesn't go further than 32 weeks. I only have about 6-8 weeks left, so this won't be a long one, but it will be detailed.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

The colors this week are almost overwhelming! I am particularly excited as last time I ran her she wasnt nearly as colorful. The scent is also really starting to get up there & is noticable even with carbon filter. Shes starting to have a few pistols wither so she cant have long left. Check back next week to see just how fast she buds & remember its 4:20 somewhere!!

ºDay 71 (17Jan - Transition and stretch phase, 8th video; ºDay 72 (18Jan) - Starting LST again, 20th watering (1st nuteMix), 9th video; ºDay 75 (21Jan) - 21th watering (2nd nuteMix), 10th video; ºDay 77 (23Jan) - End of week 10;

Another solid week in the books, and the last one UKBS 2 will spend in the tent. Today I intended to start hardening the selected plants that will go outside, but when watering UKBS 2 I found it was growing roots out the bottom of the pot and into it's drain tray. So, I had to replant it into the 15gal and will be taking it in and out of the back door until the weather's nice enough overnight to just leave it out. The Carl plant I had taken out to harden was very pissed off with me for doing so, and perked up near-immediately when I took it back in. It's too bad it doesn't like the outside as it's going to be spending a good amount of time there. I treated with diatomaceous earth in an attempt to not bring any unwanted insects into the tent. Both UKBS 2 and Carl 2 will be going in and out every day for approximately the next month while temperatures improve. Inside the tent, UKBS 1 seems very happy to finally have some light. UKBS 2 was very large and encroaching inside there, and blocked nearly all of its light. More updates will come throughout the week, as always. -4/17/2021 - Noticed a small hole at the main stem near the top node on UKBS 2. Dusted with diatomaceous a little bit just in case, will keep a very close eye on it. Hoping it's not a caterpillar or stem borer, and just a breakage. -4/20/2021 - Happy 4/20! UKBS 2 is loving the window spot, and life is good. Thanks for swingin by.

Super easy trim✂️ The buds are super dense & sticky🤩 For the smell it’s cherry & blackcurrant with a gassy touch the Cherry Cola Diesel ⛽️🍒

She is packing up slowly and Surely.

Seems to be going well. Short and tight plant.

Had a close call here. I went to see how the plant was doing, after a full week of no checks. It only had about 500ml out of 19 litres remaining in the tank! She is a thirsty girl. Other than that, everything is going to plan. Trichome production is in full swing and she's looking very healthy.

Flipping now, light training trying to maximize horizontal space