F8 : I think I over vegged. It’s getting a bit out of control. I’m still debating whether to defoliate or not. Otherwise plants are right on schedule. F10: Afgoo is taking the longest to start flowering. They do have the shortest flowering time of 50-60 days. Lots of stretching on the animal crackers. I don’t expect much of a yield from them. Defoliated animal crackers #1. Gave her a low lollipop cut. They grew very bushy underneath. Did get some nice cuttings. F11: Watered with Foxfarm 10ml/gal

Day 69: Watered each plant with 1.5L with nuts 1379 ppm, 2951us/cm, 2.9 EC (1 purple punch, wedding Cheesecake) 1391 ppm, 2959 us/cm, 2.9 EC (gorilla cookies) 1L 319 ppm, 678 us/cm 0.6 EC (3 strawberry banana and 2 purple punch) (2L each) 3 different feedings for the 10 plants Still flushing all the strawberry banana and 2 purple punch with flawless finisher, 2ml per L. (1st week flawless finisher, 2L each, 2nd week clear water, 150L each pH tap water) Day 71: I've been struggling with the humidity, always around 70%, I can't turn the lights off at the moment. I lost one of the main fans during 2 days, and I found mold on all the tops on one purple punch and on the smaller strawberry banana as well. First timing having this issue! High humidity plus not enough air circulation equals this. Mistakes happen for a reason. Need to start rethinking my whole air circulation, exaustor, fans, etc etc. I removed the infected buds, I used a magnified glass to help me do the job better. I did everything like the book. Already have 3 fans on the tent, let's see how it goes. Humidity between 65-75% Day 73: Watered each plant with 1.5L with nuts 1458 ppm, 3101us/cm, 3.1 EC (2 wedding Cheesecake and 1 gorilla cookies) 283 ppm, 602 us/cm 0.6 EC (3 strawberry banana, 3 purple punch and 1 wedding Cheesecake) (2L each) 2 different feedings for the 10 plants Still flushing, 1st week flawless finisher, 2L each, 2nd week clear water, 150L each pH tap water) Everything running smooth, they are starting to show the colors from the flush I've been doing. Day 75: Watered each plant with 1.5L with nuts 290 ppm, 617 us/cm 0.6 EC (3 strawberry banana, 3 purple punch and 3 wedding Cheesecake) (2L each) Day 77: Watered each plant with 1.5L with nuts 1811 ppm, 3810 us/cm, 3.8 EC (gorilla cookies) 253 ppm, 538 us/cm 0.5 EC (3 strawberry banana, 3 purple punch and 3 wedding Cheesecake) (2L each) Still flushing... Going to cut some of them this week.

Some more photos. ✌️

Die Blueberry hat es nicht mehr lange sie sieht sehr schön aus und ist voll mit trichomen

I am Harvesting Bubba Kush Mintz Autoflower. She has developed some nice colas on her. She has a earthy creamy kush smell. Very frosty and looks delicious. I had a good grow and I will be back on the smoke report. Thank you Athena, Spider Farmer, and Aeque Genetics. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

End of week 5 flower and the flowers are shaping up nicely.

Day 64 to 70 On autopilot. I have been light on the nutrients so bumped up the nutes to 810ppm this week. Forbidden Runtz 1 is coming close, the buds are getting THICC and hard. I'm keeping a close eye on the trichomes. It's almost go time. I predict 2-3 more weeks for the rest but I don't know anything Feeding around 750ppm this week. Lightening up on Nutes for FR1 at ~350ppm.

So she’s a week into flush with only about 10% amber trichomes so has a few more days yet. The bud size isn’t moving but the density of the buds has definitely increased. Let me know what you think. 🙌🏼🙌🏼

plant is doing well 3 more days and i will defolate and lolly pop for day 21

So far, so good. Flowering happening. 23/10 Little defoliation.

Hi guys This week we are flushing the ladys, as you can see the fall colours are coming now. The amnesia zkittles smells amazing 👏 I can't wait to try this strain. Never the less the smoothie and orangesherbert smells amazing too. Another week of water and all will be down.

She is doing Great and is just stacking the buds. Seems she has to live another 10 days at least. D71: 4l D73: 4l D75: 4l D77: 4l. Started with Flawless Finish

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

7/27 My phone ran out of storage and wouldn't let me take a video. I tried deleting several other videos bit that didn't work either. Finally I wad able to upload a few RANDOM pictures from the "website" camera. But no video. Everything looked so beautiful tjis morning too. Not watering was the right choice. I defoliated a couple septoria leaves on the reveg 10th planet that wad about to receive its third dose of Plant Doctor. The chem dog #4 and mk ultra this will be their second treatment. Seeing the positive impact of the product and finding a few septoria leaves I decided to treat every plant in the garden with plant doctor. I'm still going to do the diy Dr. Zymes but Plant Doctor had been working good and I want to suppress as much as possible. Everything looks great. I started by giving the thirstiest plants a half gallon of water. I then did a root drench of 3tsp per gallon on every plant but the 10gal. A gallon of solution was used on each plant. I really feel like this is a good mood. Previously AFTER I applied Plant Doctor the plants would have a noticeable positive effect shortly after. I'm hoping this will be the case here. I think stretch has stopped. I have one special Kush that has buds already but EVERYTHING is in early flower. I'll fix the phone and get a video up there. EDIT: WENT BACK AROUND ONE TO DO A LITTLE DEFOLIATION. EVERYTHING LOOKS REALLY GOOD TO ME. I DID DEFOLIATE A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES. BUT REMOVING A LEAF OR TWO FROM A MONSTER REVEG IS NOTHING. REALISTICALLY I SHOULD BE REMOVING MORE FOR BETTER AIR FLOW. THATS SOMETHING ILL NEED TO DO. SO HAPPY THINGS ARE DOING GOOD. EVERYTHING IS IN VARIOUS STAGES OF FLOWER. NEXT FEED ILL BE USING A BLOOM NUTRIENT. NOT SURE BUT PROBABLY LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. 7/28 Didn't have much time this morning. I've got a wife with medical problems and I'm trying to redue my house before the end of the summer so I'm busy to say the least. Still no pm. Not many pests either. The rose bushes behind them have been DEMOLISHED by jpn beetles. I see no negative active reactions from treating everything with plant doctor 3tsp/gallon. The first plant I treated with it was that 10th planet and its gotten three treatments and looks great. I'll get a spot here or there once in a while but for the most part it's supressed. I have some pruning to do. Everything os in early flower but that one special kush is pretty far ahead. EDIT: SINCE IT WAS MID 80S I WENT OVER AROUND 1 TO CHECK THE GIRLS. THEY LOOKED GREAT. I DEFOLIATED A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES BUT ONLY A COUPLE. I STOPPED AT A LOCAL SHOP AND SHOWED MY BUDDY A VIDEO. HE SAID TO NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING WITH LEAF SEPTORIA WITH "ANYTHING" BECAUSE OF HOW IT SPREADS. I DIDNT MENTION THE CONTRADICTORY EVIDENCE THAT I'VE FOUND IN MY RESEARCH BUT HEY. HE HASNT LED ME WRONG. PLANT DOCTOR SEEMS TO BE DOING THE JOB. THAT AND DEFOLIATING ANYTHING I SEE. IVE WORKED TOO HARD TO LOSE THEM TO A DISEASE THAT MAINLY EFFECTS THE LEAVES. PLANT DOCTOR WILL KEEP IT SUPPRESSED. 7/29 Today is supposed to be really hot. In the 90's. I watered everything a gallon except the thirstier plants got 1.5 and the 10's got 1/2 gallon. I defoliated a few septoria leaves. I'm sure there will be a few more after watering. Instead of alleviating my concerns my buddy kinda got in my head with the septoria talk. Things will be fine. Everything LOOKS gorgeous. He even said, "They look really good and healthy" and "not to get complacent defoliating." The plant in the 50 seems to be worse off than the others. I'll keep an eye on it but if I got spots near the sugar leaves I might just cut that little runt. This was all preventable too. Person mowing the lawn BLEW DISEASED GRASS, SHRUBS AND BIRD SEED IN MY CAGE RIGHT AFTER TRANSPLANT. I legit had to dig out at least a dozen sunflowers or other seeds that sprouted. Realistically things will be fine. The plant I've been treating for three weeks with plant doctor looks great. So do the others. Everything looks good. I just get occasional leaves I previously would've overlooked or attributed to something else. As long as I can keep it suppressed enough through flower I'm good. Anything that isn't good enough will go towards extracts. EDIT: WENT OVER AROUND ONE. A COUPLE PLANTS IN TJE BACK THAT I WATERED FASTER WERE LIGHT SO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH THEM. THE 10TH PLANET THAT HAS GOTTEN THE FULL PLANT DOCTOR TREATMENT IS DOING AWESOME. I DID HAVE TO DEFOLIATE A HANDFUL OF LEAVES. HONESTLY I THINK IVE PROBABLY HAD THIS YEARS PRIOR AND DIDNT RECOGNIZE IT. IM PRAYING EVERYTHING WORKS OUT. IM DOING MY PART. I'M GOING TO HAVE TO DO SOME MORE RESEARCH. 7/30 Came over to the 10th planet plant in the front row all the way in the back was drooped all down and is yellowing up pretty good. I defoliated what I could and gave it a gallon and a half of water. I defoliated any sep leaves I could find. If that plant foesnt pick up like they normally do I may need to ditch the plant. If it continues to get yellow and look unhealthy I'd rather get rid of it than risk more damage. It was light as a feather so I assume it will be fine. I'll update as I go. Everything else looked good though. EDIT: DESPITE IMMENSE ANXIETY I GOT THAT FEELING SO I WENT AND CHECKED THEM. THE ONE I WATERED DID PICK BACK UP BUT IT HAS A LOT OF YELLOW LEAVES. THE 10TH PLANET THATS DOING GOOD WAS BONE DRY AND STARTING TO DROOP. I GAVE IT 1.5 GALLONS. THE HUGE MK ULTRA ALSO WAS STARTING TO DROP AND LIGHT AS A FEATHER. I GAVE THAT A FULL WATERING CAN WHICH IS DAMN NEAR 2 GALLONS. THE REST WILL GET WATERED TOMORROW. NO SIGN OF SEP THIS TIME. I WASNT THERE LONG BUT STILL. THE OTHER PLANTS WERE LOOKING GOOD AND ALL PRAYING TO THE SUN. TOMORROW ILL WATER AND FEED. 7/31 Came over this morning to one of my plants on the 10 drooped right over. I shouldve watered it yesterday when I did the others that were light. Coincidentally the three that needed the water were the 3 revegs. I watered what didn't get it yesterday with a gallon each. I then fed everything a powerade bottle. Started liquid kool bloom today. We shall see how that goes. I defoliated quite a few leaves. I think I may have had sep in the past on some plants and just didn't notice. Plants still look good but I keep a good eye on them. And I defoliate a lot. I've taken my buddies advice and not sprayed anything. I don't really have any pests. A pillar here or there or a "A" cricket or jpn beetle. Of there is one four eyed plant bug but I can't seem to kill it. I've almost caught it a couple times. Anyway like usual I'll keep this updated. 7/30 Girls looked good this morning. I has to water the 10th planet in the front back and one of the 10s. Defoliated a few yellow leaves and picked off a couple sep leaves. It rained a little and I'm really surprised that I haven't seen MORE sep leaves. These girls are resilient. One more day and it's plant Dr day. That 10th planet that has had 3 treatments and will just receive its first "preventative dose" after the three big ones is doing amazing. That one special kush I the front is flowering much faster than anything else. I'm grateful for what I have. EDIT: WENT OVER TO SEE IF I NEEDED TO WATER AROUND 1PM. EVERYTHING LOOKED GOOD. THE FURTHEREST KUSH WAS A LITTLE LIGHT BUT IT CAN WAIT FOR TOMORROW. I DEFOLIATED ANY FADING LEAVES OR ANYTHING THAT EVEN LOOKED LIKE SEP. ALL PLANTS ARE IMPROVING AND LOOKING REALLY GOOD. MK ULTRA IS GOING FIRTHER INTO FLIWER TOO. FOUND ONE JPN BEETLE WHOCH I PROMPTLY KILLED. AROUND THE GOUSE THERE ARE ROSE BUSHES. LUCKILY. JPN BEETLES ARE ON TOP OF EACH OTHER FUCKING AND DESTROYING THE PLANT. IM VERY LUCKY DAD LETS ME KEEP THESE AS TRAP PLANTS. I WENT OUT AND PROBABLY COLLECTED 50 BY BRUSHING THEM IN SOAPY WATER. I HAD TO DO THAT 2 OR 3 TIMES A DAY ONE YEAR. IM SO GRATEFUL ROSES ARE THERE FAVORITE FOOD. PLANNING TO WATER TOMORROW AND I MAY APPLY PLANT DOCTOR A DAY EARLY. IM NOT SURE. IT WILL HAVE TO BE A DAY LATE OR A DAY EARLY. ILL PLAY IT BY EAR. I THINK THEY COULD WAIT REALISTICALLY. IM JOT SEEING MANY BAD LEAVES. KNOCK ON WOOD.

Went away for a week and missed ideal harvest. Unfortunately, the harvest seems to have been fried to a crisp. Last time I share the responsibility. :(

she grows very well in her third week of flowering ... under a little temperature ... but she stays strong ... let's hope she offers us in the future ... outdoor ... she grew a little ... this week I eat only with tap water ...

Flower tent is ac infinity 4x8 tent. With two spider farmer sf-4000. This tent has the exhale 360 co2 grow bag. The nutrients are not what each plant receives. Each stage gets its appropriate nutrients. I will be going back and trying to name each plant in the 2-7 feeding

Since i put my filter the temperature ir a bit high, i think the extractor in not powerfull enough 😔 All 3 Sensi Skunk are 50cm tall, and starting to flower, Big Bug is 35 cm and only a few pistils.. I realized that i started to count day 1 when it was already day 5 or so.. but no problem 😁 I dont have a ph or ec meter (will be my next investment), i just have those drops for test ph, And today when i finished mixing the nutes, i tested with those drops and it was to low, (orange color) so i had to take off 1/4 off the solution, and add tap water, which has high ph and i manage to bring the ph up,(yellow color). Hope they like this mix of waters and nutes i gave them 😆 13/06/2021 Day 27 (from seed) - 1.7L water+nutes Day30 - 2L water Day32 - 2L water + nutes Big Bud is not looking good 😔 bottom yellow leaves and the upper leaves very pale.. growing very slow compared to the others. Same water and nutes for all of them, so i dont know whats the issue. ☹️

Que pasa familia, vamos con la quinta semana de floración de estas Mandarin Panties feminizadas de Seedstockers. Vamos al lío, las plantas se trasplantaron a macetas de 7 litros. El ph se controla en 6.5, la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/21 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 100% de potencia. Tenemos como visitante de nuevo los trips, compré depredadores que colocaré a principios de semana. Me gustaría estar más encima este cultivo pero la salud me está impidiendo un poco estar 100% con el proyecto. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨