Woche 5 hat gestartet und ihn geht es prächtig sie verändern sich täglich, eine zeigt Mängel auf aber nur minimal. bin gespannt noch circa zwei Wochen Wachstum dann in die Blüte. Die Girls wurden langsam LTS gebunden und topping wurde gemacht bei jeder Purple Punche wurde durch random seid ersetzt sieht bis jetzt gut aus

Hi all 🤗. Runtz did the topping very well :-). She grows nice and bushy, and hopefully becomes a monster 😍👍. This week will be topped again. I wish you all a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱 Type: Runtz ☝️🏼 Genetics: Zkittlez x Gelato 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Canna bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3 💦💧

These girls had large growth spurts. The plant buds packed on volume in the last 2 weeks. I let some deficiencies run about a month prior harvest, which I'll make sure not to do in future. Roughly a quarter pound of nice buds + trim.

Ciao! Questo è il mio primo EP su Growdiaries sono davvero entusiasta! Oggi 8 febbraio ho messo a germinare le tre piccole di casa Barney's. i semi sono posizionati all'interno di un vassoio da germinazione sto usando un tubo riscaldante e una centralina InkBird per la temperatura così riesco a mantenere la temperatura sui 22/23°C con un RH %80 Sto usando il metodo del fazzoletto umido, spero che in 24/48 ore la radichetta spunterà dai semi! Oggi 09/2/2023 tutti e i tre semi hanno germinato! Successo del 100% Mi colpisce il vigore della Tropicanna Banana! Invece la gelato mi da l'aria che sarà una bella signorina capricciosa! Come si sul dire ogni riccio un capriccio🤣 Ora i semi sono stati inseriti nel soil per la precisione Ligthmix della BIOBIZZ con un aggiunta di micorizze per la precisione Mycos di Xtreme Gardin! Ho nebulizzato con acqua decantata e ph6.3. 11/02/2023 Ed eccoci con il nuovo aggiornamento del Ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccole sono tutte e tre spuntate neo tempi previsti sono davvero felice per la loro vigorosità! La Tropicanna è la Gelato presentano un piccolo problemino nel staccare l'embrione del seme dai cotilodoni, per darle una piccola mano ho nebulizzato a distanza un pò d'acqua. Ho evitato di provare a toglierlo con una pinzetta per paura di danneggiare le piccole plantule, sono sicuro che riusciranno da sole a risolvere questo piccolo fastidio. Ho deciso di accendere la lampada impostandola all'incirca al 20% (60W) a una distanza di 50cm circa. Non ho un misuratore di PPFD per mia sfortuna sarei stato più preciso nel impostare la potenza e la distanza della lampada😓 ho impostato il classico ciclo di luce 18/6. Ho aggiunto un ventilatore oscillante della Secret jardin per smuovere un pò l'aria. Ora con tanta pazienza e amore aspetteremo la loro crescita! Sono davvero curioso di vedere quanto tempi ci metteranno ad entrare nello stadio di Vegetativa! 12/02/23 Ciao a tutti growers eccoci qui con un nuovo aggiornamento sul cultivo TheBarney's!! Le tre piccole si sono allungate un pochino, ho deciso di fare un piccolo refill con terreno e dare una piccola nebulizzata. Oltre a questo le ho tolte dal box di germinazione e aggiunto un umidificatore collegato a una inkbird per mantenere costante un Rh tra il 70% 80%, pian piano abbassero l'umidità fino a stabilizzarla sui 65% 70% di RH. Per il resto nulla di nuovo... Ci sentiamo prossimamente per nuovi aggiornamenti sulle piccoline rimanete connessi e lasciate mi piace🙏💚 17/02/2023 Ecco un nuovo aggiornamento sul ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccoline pian piano crescono, oggi concludono la prima settimana come plantule! Si sono un pochino allungate e per sostenerle o fatto un piccolo refill di soil e ho irrigato con 15ml a testa di acqua con ph6.3 e Herba power (Ammendante) 0.5ml per Litro d'acqua. Per questo aggiornamento è tutto ci sentiamo prossimamente! 20/02/2023 Eccoci con EP nuovo sul ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccole oggi hanno subito un travaso le ho messe in airpot da 3L e irrigato con acqua ph 6.3, ammendante (herba Power) e un estratto di alghe (Herba Sweed) EC 0.45 Esattamente oggi sono 10 giorni che si trovano nello stadio di Plantula, le prime foglie a 3 punte stanno sbucando speriamo presto di vedere quelle a 5/7 punte e finalmente si inizierà con la fase vegetativa! Tutto sommato le vedo in salute hanno un bel colore, il vigore della Tropicanna e della Gelato mi sta sbalordendo! Per ora è tutto! Al prossimo aggiornamento 💚

Finalmente i fiori stanno gonfiando come stavo aspettando! Grande settimana quella appena trascorsa, le foglie sono sempre più gialle, ne ho già tolte alcune, e i fiori stanno venendo belli grossi e pelosi. Controllando con il microscopio i tricomi noto che sono quasi tutti bianchi, diverranno ambrati a breve, non vedo l'ora. Ho svuotato completamente i vasi e ho rimesso acqua liscia con il solo overdrive, domenica prossima svuoto di nuovo, aggiungo il flawless finish e via. Manca poco 🍀🤣😎🎉🎊🍾🍀

🌺👋Salut les amis, 🌺Nous sommes au 48ème jour de floraison ce 11/11. 🌺Je suis stupéfait par ce changement de couleur sur les feuilles, j'espère que les bourgeons seront bien gouteux 🤤 🌺Après avoir obtenu un peu plus d'informations, je sais que j'aurais pu mettre plus de nutriments dans mon sol. C'est prévu pour la prochaine culture.👌 🌺 🌺❤️️Récolte prévue pour la semaine prochaine ! 🙌 🌺 🌺🤲Avec les feuilles et les plus petites fleurs je prévois de faire du Ice hash avec des bubbles bags et une mini machine à laver. 🌺Je partagerais ça prochainement✌️🎥 🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺 🌺Intensité de la FC3000: 90% 🌺Ventilation : Extracteur mars hydro 6 pouces avec filtre à charbon puissance : 4/10 (24h/24h) + 2 ventilateurs à l'intérieur ( ON 10/24h). ils s'activent à un horaire différent. 🌺Arrosage : J'ai arrosé une dernière fois avec 1.5L d'eau et je vais laisser sécher au moins 5 jours avant la récolte. 🌺Température & humidité : NUIT : 15°C & 60% / JOUR : 23°C & 45% ❤️️Mon instagram 🌱 https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/

Finally harvest time 😘 Was a very nice to grow this seeds.Was happy with her from day 1 she keep growing every day and even done one time topping on this autoflower. Now after harvest buds are really nice so 100 % Happy from grow to bloom.Now time to dry and taste 😃

These ladies were a pleasure to grow and smell amazing.

The cones have learned to be quite dense. The aroma can be considered strong. I liked how they grow.

One week down looking they're very good I can see a lot trikos on the got a new camera coming the smell is seeking out having hard time try stay stealth I belive starting to stay on my clothes my whole house 😷

Noyce, ok so we on track now but still not see that truly vigorous growth. I'm doing my best to move her under the deck when it rains to not dilute the nutes too much with rain water but i feel something is off a little. the leaves seem a little dark and a like hmmmmm a little to rigid or thick, not that nice lime green the whole way throuhgout you like to see with rapid growth. maybe the ph or mayb a slight nitrogen toxicity or possibly the combination of the two. So today i have her less of the growth nute and upped the cal meg slightly with a higher ph around 6.35 to see if i see some postive effects from this. I'm wondering if anyone has anytips on watering and such for outdoor girls in pots? still optimistic i'll get enough flower to achieve my main goal. to get high affffff watching pineapple express while smoking it. which im sure everyone does hahahha i can see the lady parts just coming out now where as the ones in the tent are about a week into flower

Topped once, turned off IR @ nights, slowed vertical growth back down, and took off both of the very lowest internodes on each plant. Eisenia fetida Stratiolaelaps scimitus Armadillidium vulgare Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison when using synthetic delivery, which can cause plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing. ATP is important when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" nutrient uptake rather than traded. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. Not sure if I butchered that but one can hope It makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic soil because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't really grow; we facilitate energy conversions, and energy is just numbers. Because the universe works the same way today as it did yesterday, there is a single, fundamental mathematical quantity that remains constant. We call this quantity energy. You cannot put "energy" under a microscope. You observe matter and forces (like heat, motion, or light), but energy is just a scalar number calculated to help predict how these things will change and interact. When an object falls, or when a battery powers your phone, matter shifts and changes form. Through it all, the universe ensures the "total score" of the numbers remains exactly the same. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. NPK & all the rest 3-5%. Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

Inicio de floración , fotoperiodo 12/12h. bajo 300W, ATS Pro 2,7 µmol/J. Por lo que hace al cultivo. Una segunda aplicación foliar con Spider boom 3ml/l para prevenir posibles plagas de araña roja. Todo y habiendo unas temperaturas en el exterior de 0ºC en el interior se está bastante bién. 😋 Así de primeras diria que esta luminaria me parece de lo mejorcito que he tenido nunca, reparte la luz como ninguna otra penetrando mucho mejor. Otra es la comodidad para bajar o subir la potencia y la posibilidad de añadirle un controlador que monitorea la temperatura de la sala de cultivo, el fotoperiodo y la intensidad, así como la atenuación de potencia. Esta semana cansado de ir bajando o subiendo la potencia del extractor durante todo el año he decidido probar un SMSCom Smart Controller. De esta manera espero no sufrir tanto por las subidas ni por las bajadas de temperatura. Muchas veces son las que por A o por B descuido el interior y casulamente son los dias que el tiempo cambia repentinamente. Un primer foliar con Delta9 para que se pongan fuertes para lo que les viene.

starting to see some crowning. nice stretching going on. very happy with how it's all going (except for the wyze camera timelapse, which still stops working halfway through the week) I do have some weird stuff going on with one plant, I'll post some pictures, if anyone has any advice. the only thing I can really find online that looks like this is tobacco mosaic disease, but I don't think it's that. maybe this one plant had a little extra stress or something. I have some of that mosaic looking pattern. it's showing up mostly on one plant, and like two leaves on one other plant. maybe calmag defiency? i guess it can kind of look like that, and my RO system was down for a week or two so I had to use tap water, and to keep EC consistent that meant less nutes for a week or two (that was taken up by the tap water EC of like 150). anyway, super excited. wish i had more to do, but it's pretty much just riding it out at this point. was crazy busy with work this week, i wanted to have got in a good defoliation already but I will get to that this weekend. going to remove everything below a certain point, all the lower leaves and the lower nodes that aren't going to make it to the top. probably going to put a trellis net up as i don't think they are going to be able to support their own weight once they start to really stack. i may do one or two final foliar sprays, all organic stuff, but one last IPM and maybe one amino acid / coconut water / aloe / bloom boost after the defoliation, just to help them bounce back quickly as i'm going to be removing a lot of biomass. all that is organic and there are barely flowers on so i'm not worried about it. getting such a strong lemon scent off these already, skunk is starting to come in. can't wait to get some real flowers on them and for the terps to develop. i'm not going to judge yet, but i think if i was to run these again i wouldn't do quadline. quadline was super interesting to me when I first started growing, but after having a bunch of grows under my belt, really i think my preference is to mostly let them grow natural, maybe supercropping the main cola, but my favorite grows have been the ones i did the least amount of hard training on. not sure why i decided to quadline this run, but i'm happy with the even canopy so it's all good

STARTING TO SHOW SOME N DEFICIENCY ON THE LOWER FAN LEAVES. WILL NEED TO AMEND A LITTLE THIS WEEK TO CATCH UP. BUDS R NOT BIG. NEITHER IS PLANTS. I THINK STILL EASIER TO GROWN INDOORS. MORE CONTROL AND AUTO SEEMS TO GO BETTER INDOORS FOR ME. I DONT KNOW IF OTHERS FEEL THE SAME WAY. BUT DEFINITLY MORE ECONOMICAL TO GROW OUTDOORS DURING SUMMER SEASON. FREE SUN.

******************************************** Week 16 Fading (flower week 10) ******************************************** Light cycle=12/12 Light Power=100w 42% Extractor controller settings High temp= Day 26c, Night 20c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= Day 50%, Night 55% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=10 Speed min=2 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=9.00am Top fan on=+22.5c Top fan off=-22.0c Dehumidifier on=+50% and -26c Dehumidifier off=-50% or +26c Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=9.00pm Dehumidifier on=+55% and -20c Dehumidifier off=-55% or +20c VPD aim=0.6-1.3 DLI aim=30-45 EC aim=0.2-0.5 PH aim=6.0-6.5 NPK(0/0/0) 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= Autofeed 6 drippers. Feed=water Volume=8L Easy Ph down= 0.02ml/L ( 4 drop total) Ec=0.2 PH=6.5/6.5 Runs=16 Run times=5min (250ml each) Gap times=15min×14, 45min×2 Total runtime=80mins (4.0L each) Total flowrate= 100ml/min (50ml/min each) Auto start time=10.00am Auto stop time=4.05pm 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 ******************************************** ******************************************** 📅1/9/24 Sunday (day 106, day 64 flower) 📋H=99cm D=16cm Dli=38.9 Ppfd=900 📅2/9/24 Monday (day 107, day 65 flower) 📋 📅3/9/24 Tuesday (day 108, day 66 flower) 📋 a few issues through lack of light to some lowers. Plodding along nicely. 📅4/9/24 Wednesday (day 109, day 67 flower) 📋 where she's fading at the top a leaf has died, possible cause bud rot. Will investigate at the end of the week. 📅5/9/24 Thursday (day 110, day 68 flower) 📋 I'm not happy with a main cola, may have got rot because the buds have got so dense and close together, or could be because that particular cola is right near the light and its burned the leaves, I'll chop the top off that cola and inspect it. After inspection there a 8 very dense buds all clustered together and some inside leaves have died and the rot had started to form inbetween 3 buds, only a slight bit of rot but I'm discarding the whole top. Was 52g wet. Because of this and a few other colas have dense buds I'm only going to let her go for a few more days. Had a joint got paranoid and cut 3 more tops off, they was ready and no sign off rot 136g wet from those 3 tops. Total weight so far 188g 💧 Method= automatic Feed=water Volume=10L Ec=0.2 PH=6.1/6.5 (PH D=0.02ml/L) 5d Volume left=1L Volume used=9L (112ml/min) Volume each=4.5L (56ml/min) Runoff. Total runoff=0.8L Ec=2.4 PH=/6.5 💧 📅6/9/24 Friday (day 111, day 69 flower) 📋 Now in the tent on her own for a short while. 📅7/9/24 Saturday (day 112, day 70 flower) 📋 incrased light power to 125w ******************************************** Weekly roundup. 📋 Obviously I had the issue with rot starting to form on my main top and lost that which I'm gutted about, I could have chopped that off last week really. I'm just letting the lowers mature a little bit longer. I gave her 3 more days after this week before harvest so next update is harvest. I encoded some pics from those 3 days. Take it easy. Back soon with harvest report. ********************************************

April, 5h. The Plants are still stretching, and they produing nice Flowers additionally to alot of energy is needed Iam waatering them daily, and feeding every other Day, I still stay with myy Vegetation Fertilisers, until they stop Stretching Next feeding Iam going to aadd some P+K, because they need it too I topdressed them with Silica to strenghtn the connective Tissue of the Plants and it works very well Plants are llooking very happy and green, and iam sure they stop soon the stret ch, and concentrate in the Flowers One Plant moved into another Tent, to have more Space to spread