Week 4

Just prep for LST! Any advise someone??????😀

Coming into week 4. I have trellis netted for scrog . I like to trellis about a week before switching to flower in this space. Plants were 22 inches tall, after trellis net brought them back down to 12 inches tall.

For the most part I’ve been letting this lady go natural, pulling the lateral branches down as the reach the edges of the pot to create two “rings” of even colas. She already smells like gas/chemicals/burnt rubber, and she’s not even partway into flower yet. Ended up stretching vertically so fast I had to adjust my lights due to light stress, she’s the tallest lady in the tent. Major defol already done, waiting for her to get juicy!

The Blue Dream is a plant with a very short internodal distance, at least this type that we found is reacting by remaining small, but the brunches are moving forward and I also bend them. Remember that we are growing 1 Plant worked with the techniques and one left to grow without cutting techniques with a bit of LST. In this diary we find the plant that is growing with this mainlining: topping third internode, wait 3 internodes doing LST, Topping again, LST on brunches. The comparison is the salt of the experience so the plant in the other diary will be worked very differently go and see it to compare them. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhiza Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). We are administering // 1 ml/l Power Roots - 1 ml/l Pure Zym - 1 ml/l Sugar Royal - 3 ml/l Alga Grow We have sprayed Vita Race Foliare 3 ml/l. https://plagron.com/en The doubts about the compatibility between Pure Zym and mycorrhizae have been dispelled, they can get along according to Plagron experts. If someone tells you that enzymes eat mycorrhizae, which in principle may seem possible, explain to them that it is not true. https://www.royalqueenseeds.it/growing/452-easy-roots-mix-di-micorrhize.html Try this strain it promises more than good ---- // https://www.zamnesia.io/en/3271-zamnesia-seeds-blue-dream-feminized.html Short Description Zamnesia // Exceptionally tasty and potent, Blue Dream by Zamnesia Seeds is a hybrid with a distinctive and sophisticated character. A blend of Haze and Blueberry strains that manages to bring out the best of both worlds. Its short flowering time of just 9 weeks far surpasses other Haze strains! You can find the whole world of growing at Zamnesia and much more take a tour of the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... p.s. no hermaphrodites so far, can you growers say the same? You can find the entire world of growing on Zamnesia and more, just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new varieties are exceptional and the old ones are no different... --- // www.zamnesia.com

3x3 Tent (Variety of Clones) - Day 42 incredibly strong smells coming from tent, so checked tricomes for first time and found 90% cloudy, 15-20% amber, so decided to harvest the four plants. Black Cherry Gas could have waited another week or so before Harvest, but decided to pull along with the joining four b/c tent is doubling for drying (space issue). 2x4 Tent - Heading into week five of flower. Noticed the French Macaron had a taco effect on leaves. Decided to adjust LED lighting down to 60% to see if that helps. Ph still coming in at between 6.5 and 7. For soil this is an acceptable range, IMO. Continuing to Ph water along with weekly soil program regimen. French Macaron seem to respond to lower PPFD readings. Later in week adjusted LED from 60 to about 70% intensity. PPFD readings between 500-700. 2x2 Tent - Defoliated the one Afgooey Auto plant in the 2x2 tent with Ph/soil program watering. Applied small amount of soil program watering to clones, since they're slightly moist from previous watering. Clones continue to reveg and are showing positive signs of growth.

Harvested 1st plant at day 65 it could have gone longer but I needed smoke so it had to go lol!trichomes wer 95% milky with a few amber

Hier auch werden die sauren zitronigen Noten deutlich.

Feed 1 Grow 1ml, bloom 3ml, topmax 3ml. Feed 2 Alg-a -mic 3ml. Feed 3 Grow 1ml, bloom 3ml, topmax 3ml. Three feeds of 1 litre.

She's showing the first pistils already, she looks veery small for 28 days old, can't believe it, I was very excited about this strain and looks like she's not gonna be very productive,but let's see how big she get with the stretch. Peace and love everybody 💚✌️

Lights 6500EVO 8(581w) UV (50w) 15min a hr, Under canopy (86w) 12hrs, IR 15min pre and post main lights, Deep Red 15min per hour pH 6.2 EC 2.5 PPFD 1100-1200(with DR on) 🤤

Start Flush

Candy is growing well. She has been vegging well. I have not done much to her but let her grow this last week. Everything is going well. Thank you Divine Seeds, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Very happy with how this lady has performed, amazing quality buds, very sticky and dense flower with a concrete smell that I love so much, which is that kind of fruity sweet flavor that this lady is able to produce, it's been a beautiful journey, I'm gonna enjoy a lot this flowers. Very recomended guys!

I’m actually Super happy they sprouted on the 1st it just makes keeping track of what day your on so much smoother l think, but I think one was having a hard time getting the shell Off so I helped just I tiny bit!

Day 57 of flower, we’re on the home stretch now. I’ve been flushing them out for the past week or so now. I like to flush for 21 days. IMO, I think the buds taste better and smoke smoother when you flush longer than usually but that’s just me! No specific pics/vids of the white widow but I thought I share my entire garden with you guys. I said I would harvest on day 70 but I might harvest on day 63-65 because I’m seeing more amber trichomes every day. My next update will either be harvesting or I’ll be letting them go for another week. Until next update! 🙏🏾

Last day on veg stage, today I will do some pruning and switch them to flower finally :)

She's doing great, recover well on each training. Struggling with tent rotation lol, so She's still in the veg tent, one week left in flower tent for current crop but I want change my lights on/off time so waiting on flower tent to be free.. Training has kept her relatively small though. She topped herself 2 times after I topped her once. Only wanted 6tops currently have 8.. no complaints just worried about maintaining image through flower.. Happy growing everyone

Absolutely blown away by the new 2025 setup, prev ran 3 tents 😂, switched to AC Ifinity 2,4 x 1,2 single tent, 3 x 150 or 6“ fans. Fans all port outside, 2 exhaust with yet uncoupled carbon filters, 1 inlet with pollen filter. 6-7 air push fans (not all yet on 😂). SpiderFarmer 16L humidifier, inkbird RH control, inkbird heat control, heater, trotek dehumidifier (12L) with drain line and reservoir. Blumat system with RO fed 20L water butt, each pot with 3 long ceramic blumats. Data logger from SensorPush including WiFi hub and 4 sensors. One in cellar room (lung room), one above each plant canopy. Setup logger n sensors and track VPD. System running itself