50% dimmer at 45 cm, plants showing pre flower, next week I will defoliate and LST secondary branches

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

fantastic smells coming out of the tent! The purple punch smells delicious. The sour diesel smells dank. The girl scout cookies smells like GSC

📅 D29 - 12/09 📜 Entering in the 4th week of vegetation, almost ready for preflowering. Today I made a big defolation and tied up the main branches with LST. Focus strongly on res as it has a strange behavior (EC falling and pH static). If tomorrow will be again like this, I will completely change the water and I will set a lower EC. T and H are now under control. ✍️ 1,3 EC ♒ 5,5 pH 🌊 9,5 L (added 1 L) 📏 9 cm 📅 D30 - 13/09 📜 Today I made a big defolation, cutting all the branches not interesting. Sadly I cut also one of main branch by mistake. Too bad, I'm very upset. Added 1,5 L of water with EC = 1,43 and pH = 5,8. ✍️ 1,29 EC ♒ 5,8 pH 🌊 10 L (added 1 L) 📏 9 cm 📅 D31 - 14/09 📜 I made some LST in order to cover the space of the broken stem and leave more space to the other branches. Today I not feed her, waiting for tomorrowv to add 1,5 L. Lucy is almost ready for SCROG. I think she will start soon, for sure this week. The res EC and pH seems stable now. T and H are under strict control. ✍️ 1,29 EC ♒ 5,8 pH 🌊 10 L (added 1 L) 📏 9 cm 📅 D32 - 15/09 📜 I start ScrOG training today. Tommorow I will change the res as I don't like how pH and EC are moving. pH tester is broken again, I purchase a professional one for a lot of money. I hope this will do his job for long time. ✍️ 1,2 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 8,5 L (added 1 L) 📏 11 cm 📅 D33 - 16/09 📜 Big News: Lucy starts preflowering. A little bit earlier than my tought but I think I can manage, as she looks great right now. I also changed the res, pushing the EC until 1,45 and turned on the flowering lights.The ScroG Net is working fine, I guess. Update: T is really too high (now near 36 °C) as I turn on the bloom lights. I'm trying to fix the problem in a creative way: I put some dry ice just in front of area injector and T lowered a little. H is in between 70% - 85%. ✍️ 1,4 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L (new res) 📏 15 cm 📅 D34 - 17/09 📜 Lucy in ple flowering stage and the buds are starting grow very fast. The ScrOG net works good until now. I've some problem with the Temp, cause it's always around 35 °C that is too much.. I need to keep the H in between 75% - 85% to balance such high Temp but it's quite difficult. The reason of such high T is because I turned on the bloom lights. Also, today I had a strange beahavior of pH that is decreasing. Now I fix it on 5,5 but I've to be prepared to change res again. Made also some defolation. ✍️ 1 EC ♒ 5,6 pH 🌊 9 L 📏 15 cm 📅 D35 - 18/09 📜 Last day of fouth week and last of vegetation. Today pH gone again down 5,5. I added 1 L. of water with normal nuts, pH+ and also GHE Pro Bloom, raising both pH and EC. I will change the res on monday, as soon as I will have affordable measuring tools. SCroG seems working very well and Lucy looks healty. ✍️ 1 EC ♒ 5,8 pH 🌊 9,5 L 📏 15 cm

Week 5 of flower is coming to an end. I've lowered the humidity to 50% to up the VPD to around 1.2kPa. I've also increased the intensity of my lights from 55% to 65% at the start of the week and increased it even further from 65% to 75% on Wednesday. As long as they show no curling or burnt tips, I'll continue to increase the intensity at this pace. The Dolato also developed a smell, on which I can't really put my finger. It smells like lemongrass with a touch of fruity candy. The other two plants just keep increasing their smell, to the point where I can smell it inside the tent without rubbing my fingers against the trichomes. Also, this week I've added a video to capture the whole tent.

The ladies will tell u all, as u can see on the pictures these girls will become majestic

👉Alrighty Then👈 We are back this week and they are killing it 👏 😎 🙏 zero issues 😀 👉So today we have flipped the clock and we are now moving to Flower , I've now started to implement my nutrients plan for PreFlower ..... 👈 😳So I will be showcasing just 3 this round even thoe I am growing 7 plants 😳 👉Black Domina From Weedseedsexpress 👍 👉Permanent Marker From Weedseedsexpress 👍 👉Sleepy Joe OG From Weedseedsexpress 👍 The other 2 are repeats cause they are pure fire 👈 You can view these 2 in the 👉Summer Classic Diary 💪 Had issues with the Banana Biscotti germination, so it's way behind and also the extra seed I popped 👉Purple Oreoz From Seedsman 👍 👉Persian Pie From Greenhouseseeds 👍 👉Banana Biscotti From Seedsman 👍 👉Gorilla Cookies From FastBuds Soil by Promix Nutrients by Cronks Lights by MarsHydro & Vivosun Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈

The smaller one went outdoors, into the garden of a friend. All good. Some yelowish leaves, some leaves with spots, nothing serious. Watering almost every second day. Giving much more water than last years grow, but i have a much stronger pump for air. And the filter ist not installed yet.

after the 5 days all are sprouted through. Update: first full week out of the soil with just minor water added with a pH of 6.3 from the sink. The Do-Si-Dos didn't sprout with normal leaves but is starting to come along so we shall see how she does. The others are coming along fine so far (fingers crossed)

null😵

this went basically as bad as i couldve expected for a first harvest. i didnt flush, it obviously is very harsh, but actually not as bad as i expected. to yield a gram though, i mean i had some serious issues and inexperience. but i hope to try again with expert seeds down the line

The plants are still alive but due to temperatures below 5 °C there is almost no growth. Hope weather next week will be more sunny and warmer.

🌸 Status Week 1 – Bloeifase Aantal planten: 4 Gemiddelde hoogte: 40–50 cm Stretch: Duidelijke groeispurt waargenomen sinds overgang naar 12/12 Lichtcyclus: 12/12 (bloei gestart) Bladkleur: Gezond donkergroen, geen verkleuring of vlekken Structuur: Planten ontwikkelen meer tussenruimte (internodes strekken) Voeding: Overgang naar bloei-voeding (NPK ca. 1-2-3), 50% dosering Watergift: Om de 2 dagen; potten drogen sneller door versneld metabolisme Temperatuur: 24–27°C dag / 19–21°C nacht Luchtvochtigheid: Verlaagd naar 50–55% ter voorbereiding op bloemvorming Training: Geen extra LST deze week – planten rust gegeven om te focussen op bloei Bloei-indicatoren: Eerste pistils zichtbaar bij meerdere planten --- 📌 Opmerkingen & Acties Stretch in gang gezet – hoogtegroei gemiddeld +10 cm sinds week 5 Eerste bloeiharen (pistils) duiken op bij hoofdtoppen Geen tekenen van stress na overgang naar 12/12 Bladstand blijft mooi omhooggericht – lichtopname optimaal Voeding wordt langzaam opgeschaald naar bloei-specificaties Start voorbereiding op ontbladering en ondersteuning (bamboestokken/netten) vanaf week 2 bloei

Wow, does this Gorilla Cookies smell great!! If you have been following me, then you know that the weather here in my area has been rough. BUT, according to @Fastbuds website, Gorilla Cookies is defined as being "Super-reliable and incredibly resistant. This cultivar inherited all the best qualities from her parents, making it a fool-proof strain even for beginner growers." And, my gorilla cookies has "Chunky dense buds" just like the website said it would. I used my Max-see magnifier to take some close up pictures of Miss Gorilla Cookies trichomes. She is getting closer and closer to a harvest. It rained a little this week so I only fed her a couple of times. I am currently feeding her @AdvanceNutrients Jungle Juice. I have only taken about 10 leaves off at the most during this grow. I just didn't need to open up any space for sunlight, so I left them all in contact. I also had a couple of caterpillars? that decided it was a good idea to visit my flowering plants. Little do they know we do not want them to visit! I included a picture of the caterpillar that visited. Any thoughts? Take a look at the picture that I circled on. I circled where the stem is bending down because of the bud weight. All in all, it was a good week. Miss Gorilla cookies in concentrating on her bud growth. As always, Let's chat it up! See ya next week.

So, thinking this is the first day of week5, but I’m not sure. 📢🗣️ I think this is ‘flowering’ but I’m not sure; comments to help me define ‘flowering’ would be appreciated, please judge my photos and let me know! 📢🗣️ I made a video of my PH reader and a photo. Comments with help for that would also be appreciated, is the PH really over 9 (my readers max) due to calcium buildup up, or is the humus lombrico giving a false reading? 500 ml distilled water (still trying to flush high calcium buildup from the local water). When the fertilizers arrive I’ll start giving her food: 9/8 200 ml bloom, 60 ml CalMag sup 10/8 250 ml filtered tap water Moved her to a different balcony that gets a little less morning sunlight 🌅 but a lot more afternoon sunlight ☀️ Tightened the first two LST yarns, added 2 more and discovered 2 more bud sites!

Went to daily water this week and gave her Royal Rush. I will once a week now till almost flush. Tracking the moisture curve with Ecowitt in coco is working just fine. Can see the cycle getting little by little shorter. Exciting! The timelapse is most of the week? I think. Idk its this week though. I may have knocked it over and moved the plant. But it is what it is. Just playin around anyways. 😁 Back to plant, I was going to top her. But clearly I did not. I may bend her tomorrow, well see. She is eating little, she stacks at 325 ppm but not much. Oh and some ca dots arrived, but its old. Should be flower any time! 😁😻🤘.

April 26, 2024 Day 71 It's a new week and the start of late flower. It was also cleaning day. Both reservoirs have been cleaned out and are freshly loaded with new water. This week we are focusing on watering and nutrients. I may start to drop the dose until flush, over this week and the next. The light power will also be gradually dropped down over the next 2 weeks. Not much this week, I think I'll drop the DLI down to 43 mol/m²/d in the middle of the week. Next week I'll drop it down to 38 mol/m²/d. It all depends on what the plants look like. The plants are getting ready to hunker down and finish up. Both have decent sized buds and just need to finish swelling. I'd say another 2 weeks maybe? Flushing will start at some point over the next 2 weeks as well. Flushing won't be much of a big deal as it's just cleaning the reservoirs and running a week of Flawless Finish. The environment is changing a bit as well. I dropped the day temp down to 75° and the night temps to 65° or lower. Not cold enough to cause stress, but enough to get some purple I hope. The humidity is sitting at 47% and I'll be leaving it there unless somehow I can get it to go lower. For now it's pretty solid at 47% and everything looks great, so no need to worry. I'll be taking trichome pics every few days. One pic for each plant. No point in loading up the whole photo gallery with even more daily pics. Plus, the progression of trichomes isn't fast enough to really notice daily. So every 3 days should be fine. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.2° RH: 47.7% VPD: 1.49 kPa April 27, 2024 Nothing happening today. Both ladies were inspected with no issues. I snipped a single leaf off of Banana Purple Punch B. Just one. Blocking bud sites. Banana Purple Punch A has some massive buds. About the size of golf balls. Maybe a bit smaller. They are still swelling and have a good 2 weeks left. Pistils are still mostly white, so that's a good sign for larger buds and more trichomes. Banana Purple Punch B is looking wonderful as ever. She doesn't seem to be suffering any issues with nutrient burn unlike her sister plant. She's perfectly healthy and has very nice bud production. The buds aren't quite as big as Banana Purple Punch A, but still nice and sizeable. The nutrient burn seems to have stopped for Banana Purple Punch A. So that's good. It should be perfectly fine now. Lighting is staying the same for the next couple of days. Although, I may keep it the same for the rest of the week. The environment is excellent now. It's raining today and the humidity is still at 47%. I did get it down to 44% for most of the afternoon yesterday, so I may be able to keep it down after the rain stops. Or just wait for the afternoon and see what happens. Either way, the humidity is now at 47% and the temp is at 76.8°. The VPD is at 1.57 kPa. A tiny bit high, but still well within range. Last night's temp was a little high at 69°. I'll have to drop the temp lower again to get that 65° sweet spot. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.4° RH: 45.7% VPD: 1.55 kPa April 28, 2024 Not much to do today. I mixed a new batch of nutrients for both plants. The only difference is that I cut the Overdrive in half down to 2 ml/gal. Neither plant needs it, but now it's mixed and ready to go. I may end up filling the reservoirs tonight as it stands. Or later this afternoon. I don't think they will last til tomorrow morning. Both plants are putting off a wonderful aroma. I honestly can't describe it. Like sweet and kind of a hint of banana and a bit heady. Trichome production is picking up quickly. The pistils are starting to turn orange as well. They are definitely in the late flowering stage. I think I'll start dropping the nutrients for the next watering. And I'll drop the DLI down to 40 mol/m²/d tomorrow I think. Not much else to say about nutrients or lighting, so moving on to the environment. It's a warm humid day out and raining off and on. My whole environment is wonky, with humidity being at 57% and the temp at 77°. I turned the AC on about an hour ago and the temp went down to 75°, and humidity up to 60%. I think I'll crank the AC all the way down. And hopefully get rid of the humidity with the temp being a bit lower than perfect. Update: I ended up adding about a half gallon of plain water to both reservoirs. Just Incase I have nutrient lockout or something. They should go through that by tomorrow afternoon. Maybe late evening. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.6° RH: 52.8% VPD: 1.39 kPa April 29, 2024 No watering today. I'm still waiting for the plain water work it's way through. However, I did drop the light power. Both ladies look great. Big buds, great scent and nice color. I'm not seeing any fade yet, but the nutrient burn is still there. I hope it will fix itself with the plain water. And then maybe fading will start. These two need a good 2 weeks or so before harvest. The lighting, as I said, was changed today. I dropped the power down to 70% to get as close as possible to 40 mol/m²/d. I may have to drop it another 10%. I'm not too sure. I'll check the DLI again when I'm more awake. (I'm finally on my second cup of coffee. Lol) Looks good though. Just around where I want it to be. But there are a lot of spots where the DLI is a bit high at 43 mol/m²/d. The tallest tops are also kind of high at 45 mol/m²/d. Again, I'll double check on a couple hours, but it should be fine. The environment is wonky again today. The temp is fine, but the humidity is still high at 60% and I don't see a way to drop it again. Not with the current weather. Hopefully I can get it down with some heat. The AC method did not work. Well, it maybe will work tonight. I'll be dropping that bad boy down to 59° tonight and hopefully it will do what I need it to. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.2° RH: 59.8% VPD: 1.15 kPa April 30, 2024 Watering day. The reservoirs were both nearly empty and there was just enough space for a full gallon in each one. It's the normal nutrient dose with Overdrive being at 2 ml/gal. These two plants are looking mighty fine. Excellent bud swelling and trichome production. I'm definitely going to be wet trimming them instead of my normal dry trim. I may leave the bods on the branches and do a partial wet trim, or I guess mostly wet trim. They smell great! Very strong aroma now. I swear they smell like artificial grape. I can't describe it any other way. Grape and pungent. Awesome. So far the light seems to be fine. No reaching or showing any signs of lack of lighting. They look pretty happy. Although, Banana Purple Punch A is a bit sad from nutrient burn. Banana Purple Punch B however didn't seem to have much of a problem with the burn. The environment is still pretty wonky. High humidity again. I can control the temp pretty easily, but the humidity is another issue. It's currently sitting at 56% and I'm holding the temp at 76°. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.5° RH: 57.0% VPD: 1.26 kPa May 1, 2024 Not a whole lot going on today. No water needed, no light changes. I rotated both ladies 180° so now they are getting light on other sides. I'll leave them like this for the rest of the grow I think. Banana Purple Punch A actually fits better in the new position. Less wall touching and about the same neighboring plant touching. I also removed 3 leaves. Ones that were misshapen from being crushed against the tent walls. Banana Purple Punch B seems to fit a little better in the new position, mostly because of her sister plant. More room on the outside and a little less room inside. No leaves were removed today. I'll reserve that for the last 2 days of the grow cycle. Then I'll do a massive defoliation and then a wet trim. It's humid here right now and I need the space. Otherwise I'd stick with dry trimming. But I can't hold up the tent for 3 more weeks. I have other plants getting ready to be planted in their final containers. Like a week for that, I might be able to squeeze a week and a half, but that's it. They will have a space, but the main tent is where they will need to be. Not a 2x2 dry tent. I'll work it how I need to I guess. Anyway, both ladies look great! Trichome production is coming along nicely as well. They are very smelly now and I love it. They are also still packing on weight I think. Not a ton, but the buds are clearly getting denser now that some of the pistils are starting to turn orange. I'd say another 2 weeks on these two. As I said, the lighting hasn't changed at all. Not for another few days to a week. Then it will have another power drop. Until then, we are staying at a DLI of 40 mol/m²/d. It's roughly 38 mol/m²/d on the outer part of the canopy. The environment is STILL wonky. I cannot for the life of me get that damned humidity down at all. Not with a dehumidifier, not with the heat cranked, not with the AC cranked. I'll try my big dehumidifier in my room, but the humidity is like 49% and frankly I'd rather the room humidity stay there. Much easier to breathe. However, the humidity in the tent is suffering at 59% while the temp is hanging out still at 76° Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.2° RH: 56.1% VPD: 1.27 kPa May 2, 2024 Not a lot going on today. No watering needed, no trimming, nothing. I found a broken bud on Banana Purple Punch A. It must have been from when it was against the wall, or too close to the other plants and got stuck on a branch while I was rotating. Oh well. It's a lower bud, so not huge. It's also the last day of the week and that means new videos! For the rest of the grow, I'll be making weekly videos of the individual plants. So that will.be this week and the next 2 weeks or so. Banana Purple Punch A looks great aside from that one broken bud. Her buds are fat and thick. Super dense from what I can see. I would like to note that the fade hasn't started yet, so we still have that 2 weeks left. Unless it starts in the next day or 2, I'll be banking on 2 weeks. Banana Purple Punch B is still compact as ever, but her buds are getting fatter everyday and of all the plants in the tent, she has done the best with the nutrients. Very little burn and didn't seem to be bothered by it. Maybe I did something early on to have such a small plant, but still. I think I can bank on 2 oz from each plant. Maybe 3 oz. It's really nothing compared to previous grows, but as I said before, as long as it's fire, I'm happy. Trichome production on both plants is fantastic. They are loaded from top to bottom. And building more and more everyday. There's still plenty of time left for there 2 as well. Most of the trichomes are clear with about 20% being cloudy and sparsely amber. That's another sign that they need another couple of weeks. Maybe slightly less. I increased the light power yesterday back up to 80%. I think I was a bit early on the intensity drop, so I'll drop it again in a few days I think. Around mid week coming up. Now we are running a DLI of 43 mol/m²/d inside and 40 mol/m²/d on the outside. The environment kinda fixed itself, but not to the ideal climate. It's still at 55% humidity. Better than 60%, but still not good enough. It needs to be below 50%. However, I can still control the temp and I have it at 74.5°. I'll turn it up a bit and see if I can clear out the last 5% of the humidity. Grow System Environment: Temp: 73.7° RH: 55.2% VPD: 1.24 kPa Update: I added a couple test videos to see if they would upload. Success!

Soon you will see my first run in a DWC^^ And a run for this Competition ;-) Added a short Clip from the open box

One week closer to anlovely smelling harvest