Venga familia que ya viene la cosecha de estas Drizl Pickl de Seedstockers, que ganas que tenia ya de darles tijeretazo. Que variedad , me encantó cultivarla , sacaron unas flores alucinantes. Las flores aparte de piedras, se ven resinosas, son pegajosas. a sido una genética recién salida este 2026 con la que disfruté bastante, no fue complicada cultivarla. Os la recomiendo si os gustan las genéticas con alto thc. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: Eldruida https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

Hi there! I'm so satisfied of results until now. Third Generation SPEED AUTO has a growth fast and vigorous, thanks to Rhizotonic support also, what gives them necessary boost to the increase.😎

So far so good... couple plants are a bit behind others even though all germenated at the same time. It looks like 3of them are a week behind... but oh well, they are all still looking very healthy although in the photos they look very yellow but this is because of the light. There actually a very dark green colour. I've started to add top max now as they have 2- 3weeks left help them buds grow. The heatwave has finally stopped after 2weeks of it being nearly 40degrees by 10 am everyday . So plants seem a bit happier... Been really happy with this strain and will defo grow again. Only thing i might change is not putting as many plants in at once. Yeh 6 fit and I could fit another 2 or 3 in but the awkwardness of watering and checking for bugs or nutrient problems is a pain... There so bushy can't tell which plant is which... Update... New pics Height.. 73cm

She grew another 17cm this week! 145cm tall!!!!!!!!! She is totally out of headroom now, her top cola is through the lights and getting close to the roof of the tent 😅 Fastbuds do say it can reach 1.4M... 😁 It's accurate, she is a MONSTER of a plant. This week I have done a quick video showing the result of my experiment a few weeks ago where I FIMed a couple of side branches. Take a look 😃 Nothing else to the report as I'm just letting her do her own thing. For nutrients I'm using 15g of 20-20-20 powder mixed with 10L of water. Also added 4ml/L of both Cannazym and Terpinator. This brings it to around 1600ppm including ~300ppm for my clean water. Timelapse Sequence: Blue Dream Auto Jack *** Pineapple Express *** CBD Compassion BLue Dream Auto Jack *** Pineapple Express *** CBD Compassion

Came home from vacation to gorgeous ladies and their light fragrances. More to follow soon.

So now I have finally harvested my first hydro plant!! It was a pleasure. My partner and I were busy cutting the plant all Sunday. Everything is ready and it is now hanging! To grow: I'll keep it short. At the beginning I worked according to the individual cann thinning scheme. Halfway through the grow I started working with H2o2 because I couldn't maintain the temperatures in the water to avoid illness. The plant was grown like a photoperiod plant because I also had photos in the tent. The plant also suffered a nutrient burn during the flowering phase. I think I worked with the PK 13/14 too early. I'm happy that I was able to learn so much from the grow.

Hi people! Our little killer was left without a head)) well, okay))) now she has 8 of them!)) Maybe I will subject all the branches to another topping .. have not decided yet ..

Foliar fed shogun sumo boost yesterday

420 Fastbuds Amnesia Haze Auto Week 4 This week has been exciting for sure. Since the mild defoliation I did a week ago, they bounced back like I never took any leaves off to begin with. I still have only watered 2 liters of straight well water daily and they seem to be absolutely fine. All in all Happy Growing Everyone.

Hello my friends, ...May 17 2022.. Day N°65.. ...Flowering day N°10... My three Feminized Bubblegum are fine, développé very good, they are beautiful, they stretching normally, I made a little defolliation. I feed them with the Hybrid Powder from Green House Feeding Nutrients, I gave them some CalGreen from Metrop, the best Cal-Mag of the market. They are under a MarsHydro TS 3000 at 50% of power and at 50cm of the canopy. www.00seeds.com www.mars-hydro.com Thank a lot for passing through here. Wish you the best with your green projects, peace. See you soon 💨💨💨

11/23 - Update 1 day early. Will make measurements and update accordingly tomorrow, as usual. I did a top off at 75% strength nutes. She is drinking 1.5 gallons per week (approximately). Trying to hold her ~850ppm @ 5.9pH. Her canopy is nice and open and bud-sites are stacking nicely. I'm hoping for some additional stretch over the next 7-10 days to give me an increased yield. Looking forward to seeing what pheno I ended up with. 11/24 - Updated stats. 850ppm, 9" above screen (so 15" total). Measured pH of 5.3, added 1ml GH pH UP to adjust; will check again later. Light adjusted for optimal canopy between both plants. I might end up re-orienting the lights in the other direction. The distance from the flowers varies between 12"-16" because some of them are stretching up more than others. I still think it only has a slight aroma, but she still has a ways to go. If she goes the full 13 weeks (~90 days), then harvest would be on 29 Dec (Happy Birthday!). Later on 11/24 - Uploaded videos of buds and roots. 11/28 - Went ahead and supercropped/HST the tallest stalk. Will see how she responds after lights come back on to see if I want to do the same to the other tall stems to even the canopy. Thanks for stopping by the garden, and, as always, Happy Growing!

The struggle is real as we continue limping to the finish line... A few more feedings this week and then on to the flush. Struggles aside, she smells great and is packing on. Photos/video taken 119 days after breaking soil, day 42 of flower.

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Need to move things along. The Tahoe Kush are more than ready to flower. And I got some new stuff to start. Foul Mouth came out nice. Strawberry Lemonade is flowering nicely. Ok update.. I'm locked out.. I can't add more weeks. So I put some bs harvests. Still I'm locked out. So I will start a new diary. Stay tuned. The pool will continue.

Day 57) nothing Day 58 ) Fed ph”d recharged water, half a gallon Day 59) nothing Day 60) Fed calmag and bloom , lotta calmag cuz I see cal def Day 61) nothing Day 62) flush with 2 gallons of phd water Day 63)

Hello This is the end of week 2 and the beginning of week 3 of flowering. Things are doing good in here. The Dos Si Dos 33 and the Pink Kush have got "the stretch" going on now. Blackberry Moonrocks and Critical OG don't stretch that much. Starting to get a little smelly in here now. I'll trim up this week. Will be removing sucker branches and some fan leaves and opening up the middle and some top leaves to let the light get farther into the plant. OK. Be Cool Chuck.

Sorry for the poor quality photos this week. I will update it at some point when I can get some photos in the dark with the flash on. With the tent being so packed and the plants under a net it's very difficult to get any quality pictures. Powering on and fattening up. They've had roughly 30 flowering days and I'm expecting mabey 20 more. Some of the biggest buds have foxtailed but I'm not too upset. They are so huge and I'm only expecting them to get thicker from here on out. Updated photos with an A4 sheet of paper behind them to try and show how wide the buds are on these girls. They are a bit airy at the moment compared to the Pinapple Express next door but with 2-3 weeks left I'm expecting them to bulk out.

420Fastbuds-Week9 Strain:FBT2312 What up grow fam. Weekly update for these gorgeous girls. They're definitely getting close to being done and getting the chop. I did a defoliation this week to allow the light down to the lower bud sites. All in all Happy Growing.

Getting tall. I have light wind blowing on it to strengthen the stem because it will be going outside. I think I'll need to start training it early.

dry weight trimmed: 85 g / plant