1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Lookin good, no more herms so far as I’ve tightened things up hopefully that’s the last of them for good. I installed a 4Inch AC infinity fan and filter as an intake so I have been able to close all of the vents. At this point the leaf strip has proven to be a solid method, I have nothing to compare bud size at this point but just the extra space it opened up is a plus. I’m sure the lowers will be a little more firm and the plants obviously haven’t had to be fed as often as usual so its saving time, water and nutrients. The added microbes have also allowed me to keep my ppm around 1000 instead of 1080ish without any sign of deficiencies. The Mandarin cookies x Dionysus has a little cal-mag issue but that was a trait from the mother which out of 10+ grows all had a cal-mag deficency. I gave everything a little flush last watering and took measurements then a good feed today REMEMBER , IF YOUR SHOPPING FOR GEAR YOU CAN USE THE CODE “BANGDANG” FOR 10% OFF YOUR ENTIRE PURCHASE FROM ANY OF THE FOLLOWING COMPANIES. @greenbuzzliquids @rainscience_growbags @gorilla_grow_tent @growlightscience.led *****Gorilla grow tent discounts extend to all companies affiliated with grow strong industries which include..***** @super.closet Lotus Nutrients Kind LED grow lights

Week 9 for White Widow by Greenhouseseedco, This girl is really due a transplant but I still have the soil cooking a few more days. Don't think ill be topping her anymore ill leave her at 16 tops, but will still be training her a bit to get all the tops with as much even space as possible while also keeping them as flat as possible. Shes getting another 2 months of veg so.. lets see what she can do.

GSC BY KANNABIA Week #21 Week #10 Flower This is the last week for feeding the plant trichomes are about 50% clear 50% milky so it's about that time. This plant is a beautiful lady!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for taking a look!!

Week 1 Day 1 - 8/12/2023 1st Water change Day! Such a special time it is when you remove the little bit of Nutes that you gave them as an appetizer and you give them their first real meal. Added 39 Gallons of Water to my system SILICA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Root Drip = 1mil/Gal = 39mil Cal Mag= .25mil/Gal = 9.75 = 10mil FLoraMicro= 3.0mil/Gal = 114mil FloraGro = 2.0mil/Gal = 78mil FloraBloom = 2.0mil/Gal =78mil ORCA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Week 1 Day 2 - 8/13/2023 Everything is looking good the roots are making their way to the water and the new grow is looking nice and green. Week 1 Day 3- 8/14/2023 Everything is right on track, they are looking beautiful and in the praying position all leaves happily lifting towards the light. Week 1 Day 4- 8/15/2023 A little worried today her birth Twin the BA I am growing out is looking great and is raised towards the light and this one is just slightly under.. Will keep an eye on Her. Week 1 Day 5- 8/16/2023 Walked in and the humidity was under 60.... ohh noooooo.. So I added 2 humidifiers to the tent and attached them to my InkBird controller which is set to 62. Also looking at the roots and she has some poking out the bottom but just not in the water yet.. Luckily we are set for 14 days before next water change so the system will stay stable and her sister already has roots in the water so she should only be a day or two behind.. we will just keep tracking but she is delayed. Week 1 Day 6- 8/17/2023 Roots in the Water!!! Huston, we have a successful launch. This grow is on! Humidity was a little low this morning so I refilled the humidifiers. Other than that the temp looks great, the PH looks good, the PPM looks good the plant is in the praying position and all damage from the little drowning from over filling the cloning machine seems to have been fixed. Happy Happy. Week 1 Day 7- 8/18/2023 Yay.. week 1 in the books, roots in the water growth has started. Everything for growth and environment is looking good and on track, there are a couple of mutations with this Lady will keep an eye on those leaves. IMO this grow is going A lot during this week 1 then week 1 of the last grow when I had them drowning. Really excited on how this grow is going to come out.

Great overall harvest from such a small light

Flipped these ladies 06 Oct 23 (Friday). After watering 09 Oct 23 (Monday) I walked in and the before SOG photos are what it looked like, I put up the new net and tied a few tops down to spread the canopy out. With the new trellis in place I'm going to let theses ladies rip and add another trellis once they outgrow their current one.

10/19 - 1 week since transplant so for no issues - removed some of the dead growth underneath - running humidifier at 80% with temps at 85 degrees.

Buds keep fattening up more and more, this should be the amazing phenomenon Carl Linneus talked about Flowers are getting enormous, gross, monster buds, everyone told me i had not enough light, not enough air flow, not enough badabee badaba but honestly i see them right, beautiful and healthy Please, SUGGEST ME anything you can think about and ill try to improve it

Vous pouvez me svivre sur Instagram LetvianGrower1

Estuvimos un poco desaparecido por andar un poco desmotivado pero aquí vamos nuevamente, las nenas van bastante bien en la semana 8 la cambiamos a maceta de 3.5L y aprovechamos de darle GREAT WHITE SHARK, la técnica que usamos es de amarrar el central ya que le hicimos supper cropping y apical a nuestro central, amarramos el apical que le hicimos super cropping y le dimos fuerza a varios brazos. Para ir controlando la altura de los brazos le hicimos poda a pical a los que estaban tomando más altura y así poder ir equiparando los brazos. La verdad que no se cuantos brazos tengo que sacar y aun me quedan unas 4 semanas para poder desocupar mi armario de floración y poder pasarlas a flora, así que intentaremos hacer una muy buena estructura antes de pasarlas a floración. La defoliación la aplico cada vez que saco foto ósea semanal y trato de ir manteniendo de a 4 nudos o 6 nudos La alimentación se mantiene igual lo que si no se si lo dije pero: Rhizotonic: Lo estoy usando solo en trasplantes y cuando hago alguna poda. Cannazym: Lo estoy usando 1 vez por semana. Orca y Myco Chum: Lo estoy usando 1 vez cada 1-2 semanas Alimentación diaria: Calmag, silicia, supervit y canna coco a+b Alimento a cada una con 250-350 cc de solución, 2 horas que encienden las luces y 2 horas antes de que se apaguen. Gracias a esta receta no eh tenido tanta variedad en mi runoff y las nenas se mantienen muy sanas. Saludos

Se regó foliarmente con Big One para estimular la floración. Y se comenzó con Voodo Juice para estimular raíces además de Top Bloom para ya comenzar de lleno con la floración. Seguimos ...

Hello gardeners! This is my second grow ever, using an slightly improved setup. In my first attempt I was able to harvest 40 + 20 + 20 = 80 grams under not optimal conditions (limited time mostly). Now, with proper time and with a new LED panel for flowering, my goal is to reach 3x40g = 120g total. SET UP -------------------------------- Grow tent 2 x 3 x 6" hidden on a closet LED Panel VIPARSPECTRA 450w (200w real) Extra LED Panel VIPARSPECTRA 450w (200w real) after 3rd week of flowering. Air filtration VivoSun 4" exhausting outside the closet Air circulation: 120mm 5v desk fan GROWING PROTOCOL --------------------------------------------------------------- 1st Stage: Week 1-2 ------------------------------------------------ Container: Red Solo cups Medium: 75% Pro Mix Organic Seedling Starter Mix + 25% Perlite Water: Mostly sprayed every day. Nuts: No Ph: 6.5 Temp(day/night): 24/17 Humidity: ~60 Light distance: 20" 2nd Stage: Week 3-5 ------------------------------------------------ Container: Smart Pot VivoSun 1 G Medium: 75% Pro Mix Organic Vegetable & Herbs Moisture + 25% Perlite Water: Roughly every 5 days with a little runoff Nuts: CalMag + Flora Trio + Floralicious plus following 'Simple Drain to Waste' schedule. Frequency: roughly 1 time per week, with a little runoff Ph: 6.0 Temp(day/night): 24/17 Humidity: ~55 Light distance: 20" 3rd Stage: Week 6-9 (Early Flowering) ------------------------------------------------ Container: Smart Pot VivoSun 3 G Medium: 75% Pro Mix Organic Vegetable & Herbs Moisture + 25% Perlite Water: Roughly every 4 feedings Nuts: Nuts: 5 ml CalMag + Flora Trio + Floralicious plus following 'Simple Drain to Waste' schedule. Frequency: roughly every 4 days, with a little runoff Ph: 6.0 Temp(day/night): 26/17 Humidity: ~40 Light distance: 18" 4th Stage: Week 10-12 (Mid Flowering) ------------------------------------------------ Container: Smart Pot VivoSun 3 G Medium: 75% Pro Mix Organic Vegetable & Herbs Moisture + 25% Perlite Water: Roughly every 4 feedings Nuts: Nuts: 4ml CalMag + Flora Trio + Floralicious plus following 'Simple Drain to Waste' schedule + extra 2ml Flora Bloom. Frequency: roughly every 3 days, with a little runoff Ph: 6.0 Temp(day/night): 26/17 Humidity: ~40 Light distance: 16" 5th Stage: Week 13-14 (Late Flowering) ------------------------------------------------ Container: Smart Pot VivoSun 3 G Medium: 75% Pro Mix Organic Vegetable & Herbs Moisture + 25% Perlite Water: Roughly every 3 days with small runoff Flush: 1 Flush when entering the last 2 weeks + 1 Flush in the very last end (~3 days before harvesting) Nuts: Floralicious plus with watering Ph: 5.8 Temp(day/night): 26/17 Humidity: ~40 Light distance: 16"

Marshydro lo mejor en luz una buena invercion. Este cultivo es sólo con agua 6.5 a 7 Ph.

Que pasa familia, hemos vuelto para actualizar las skunk que ya tenemos cosechadas. Que gran genética, y muy típica entre fumadores de hierba, un crecimiento más indico pero floración lenta bastante lenta, en teoría se supone que es Sativa, 17% thc en la tas con un tamaño medio pequeño pero flores mi compactas y dulces, un cultivo ni fácil ni difícil, sin más, bastante neutral para los cambios climáticos algo sensible con el aspecto alimentación. La recomendaría en verdad, sobre todo para aquellos amantes del dulce. Nos vemos en próximos proyectos fumetillas

flushing week

Ende der Woche 6

New week. 55-65 DLi. The dodecahedron is the only Platonic solid that has infinite numerical pathways. Might mean nothing to you yet, but its means infinity to me.

Hello everyone week 6 of flower has passed for this Gelato auto 🍦 She’s ready 😍 Green Sensation 0,5ml/L Spider Farmer SE7000 80% have a great day and wish you all happy growing 😎