Update coming.

Put Light on 75% …some leafs off…

1 sour livers is smelling sweet and lemony other 1 smelling like a zesty liver🤔. Cant quite put my finger on the aroma coming from the northern hog but shes possibly in the best condition she ever has been.

Day 64 beginning of week 10, looking for a small but decent yield. 14th, day 66 budding up, prob a week for harvest. Day 68 will have to water soon, going to slow down nutes now. Zoom on the bud photo to see trichomes getting amber 18th Day 70, watered without any nutes yesterday, had some runoff.

Marker didn't take well to the mainlining process; as a result, one cola was almost entirely consumed by mold. However, overall, things are looking good. I ended up with a small, resilient plant with a nice aroma of pineapple and Skittles, with hints of gas towards the end. 🍍🌿 Towards drying and curing now! 🌬️🎊

First grow bit late on the uploads as I’ve only just decided to document it. Really happy so far cannot wait for harvest 3 plants didn’t expect them to get this big. The plan was to do 2 and I’ll be doing 2 from the next.

Well global hysteria had me lose my job and computer but kept the growing up and made some trades while demand is high and am back here about to go into week seven. The Orange Blossom Fizz is really plumping up and is triched out. Seems like its still got at least a week and a half to go till flushing. It is really full of stacks but haven't seen much color coming in yet but it'll show more at the flush. I stripped a bunch of leaves at the actual week six about a week ago to make sure all the lowers are getting some. The video shows some full shots of the whole plant trained wide and low. Really liking this strain, last round was great and had solid nugs and great purps. The Krishna Kush is much closer to finish and I'll probably start flushing soon, like halfway through week 7. Its usually about 56-60 day for the chop. This is my pheno 1 and has a real crown shaped small nug structure from its landrace lavender background, but they're nice and frosty. Def a heavy feeder and did get quite a deficiency in the last few weeks here in the spots closer to the light. Couldn't up the nutes too much cause its sharing a res with the OBF, which is already getting nute burn a bit. Nute wise I cut out the Bud Candy and Grow at week six and switched from Liquid Kool Bloom to Beastie Bloom dry powder for this week's res. The next one I'll switch to some Dry Kool Bloom for 4 days to start the finishing before the flush. Try and keep this updated till the finish now.

This week has been great.I'm glad that I was able to pull the plant when I needed to. The weather out here isn't always the best coming towards the end of October. How ever i handle it the best we can. What ive learned to do is wet trim before hang dry. Heres some phots of these glossing nugs. Iknkw ill lose a bitin water weight but im happy none the less. Fire 🔥 This has been a great grow, I learned a lot from Growing out here in new mexico. It was amazing to be able to train these plants 4 into one using training techniques. LST, HST, Defolation & topping all play a roll. It is fun to learn and sharpen my skills. I hope everyone enjoys my diary. Thank you so much Divine seeds. I appreciate the free seeds and the friendly community competition 👌 There's a lot of good growers outthere and I wanna learn from all. Much love ❤️ I'll be back with a smoke review soon

Plant is fine, except one stormy night the weather is just fine. Heard that is gonna be a nice September, hope they are right. I plan to cut the tree on the second/third week of September. Yes some yellowing leaves, I still think is the aging process and a little bit of K deficiency, that should have decreased, and looks like it has, new growth are just fine and there is no worsening. Still watering with: Big bud, 2 ml x L CalMag 2 ml x L Bio Bloom 3 ml x L silica, one tablespoon neem oil propolis aloe

Sep 27: lots of buds remaining and I did a big defoliation to expose the buds to sunlight. Lowered scrog net during the defoliation.

Smooth sailing I’ve just water when I can visiablly see the top soil dry out

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

4/15/25 Things are progressing nicely. Some plants dont seem to be doing too much but 3 of them or so that are really standing out. Im curious if some of these are going to be longer flowering time than anticipated with the very obvious sativa dominant plants.

This week has been good, pistils started showing up on the 27th. Just watering with ph'd dechlorinated tap water. I bought lst wire but I'm not too sure if I did lst the best way but there are about 6 side branches with tops and 5 more on the way. Im probably going to be switching my 50% veg 20% bloom, to a 50/50 consuming 190 true watts from the wall next week.

Looks like I missed a week… It’s been horribly hot, and they only have access to the light outside. …In the heat. So I have been keeping them in filtered sun, sometimes shade or a brief moment in the sun. They soak up all the morning sun when it’s cooler at least. I’ve noticed what would most likely be a subtle potassium deficiency. The heat is bad. Not too hot, but unfortunately there were multiple occasions where they had more hot sun than necessary. I didn’t notice any signs of stress at the time, other than leaf tips and edges folding and pointing up a lil bit. But later in the evening I could see subtle discoloration. I’m pretty sure these young un-established plants are just running a little short on potassium. I’ve been giving them potassium as well. It’s just a matter of keeping them cool. Overall I’d say they haven’t gotten too hot! Just hot enough multiple times to put a higher demand on water and potassium than necessary, all while having slowed growth. I positive they are all still good and no one has been stunted. I hope! But yeah I think we are doing good. Just going slower than usual with the excessive heat. We are averaging a high of 90 Fahrenheit with some days getting 94! Also, they are growing slowly not only because of the heat, but the lack of direct light for the second half of the day. I’d rather grow slowly than risk stunting any. I’m feeling positive about this bunch. They are young and bursting with life!! ….slowly.

On may 6, the seedling broke through the earth. Seedling developed well in the first week. It was watered every day with a spray bottle (approx. 50ml a day) with collected rainwater in small circles around the seedling. After day 4, the first roots could be seen at the bottom of the pot. This weeks weather was pretty good for the start. The daytime temperatures fluctuated between 18 and 26 degrees in the first week, as you can see from the past weather data. (The weather report is added at the end of each week and is based on real weather events, i.e. it is not a forecast). As already mentioned the plant receives additional hours light from an LED bulb (17W, 4000K, 2500 Lumen) for the first days to make them more resistant to pests and severe weather conditions. She get around 3 hours additional light. In the early morning i move the plant outdoor.

Hello dear growers! The Critical+ one is on the Ripen from the middle of this week, 5ml/l has been used. So i am about to feed her with Ripen tea one more week, then water and. finally harvest time 💪 As about California Hash Plant, will be used the same but with an extra week of flowering on GHE nutrients 😋 Keep going! Peace!

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Hello growers. Week 3 of 12/12, we have around 25-30 sites developing. She needs around 1.5L of water a day now (run off is giving me 1000ppm) . The soil is testing 6.5 so happy days. I took two clones for the smaller sites that didnt reach canopy level last week and they have been in a dome for a week looking healthy. Hopefully they root this week and I'll move them into some smaller pots to run this girl back in my other tents asap.

Looks like they starting to grow Lets gooo ____ ladies starting to grow