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@JerMeds
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These 2 girls are looking and smelling good, canopy is almost full. I'm glad they are staying smaller and not over running my grow box. Had to LST the first girl again. She recovered well and now fully spread out and shes finishing up stretch. She has some yellowing leafs at the bottom so I upgraded her nutrients to 5ml/gal. I will see how she reacts to it and adjust accordingly. The second girl was just a big bundle of leafs, I took off about 10-15 big leafs, now more bud sites are exposed. (See Pictures) Maybe I can get a little bit more LTS out of her. I'm not sure she is going to stretch anymore. Time will tell.
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She's comming along just nicely nice tall branches with stacked bud sites who knew I'd make it dis far its alot of work trial and error it's like a full time job tending to my girls I defol her and the green crack better air flow. And light penetration
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Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zĂ©olite 3gr granulĂ© Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de biĂšre 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mĂ©lasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrĂ©dients (sauf la mĂ©lasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mĂ©lasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe Ă  air et faire oxygĂ©nĂ© le mĂ©lange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mĂ©lasse aprĂšs 12h le dĂ©but de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mĂ©lasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mĂ©lange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! j’y ai incorporĂ© 7litre de mĂ©lange La veille j’ai prĂ©parĂ© le pot Ă  l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphĂšre, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactĂ©rie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphĂšre en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sĂ©crĂ©tant des mĂ©tabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sĂ©crĂ©tant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bĂ©nĂ©fiques pour la nutrition et la santĂ© des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complĂ©ment alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et Ă©cologique trĂšs complet. D'une grande qualitĂ© nutritive, elle apporte Ă  vos plantes une quantitĂ© de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minĂ©raux, acides aminĂ©s, vitamines, chlorophylle et protĂ©ine. Le charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rĂŽle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minĂ©rale. Ce pourquoi il est idĂ©al pour activer un sol et pour les thĂ©s de compost oxygĂ©nĂ©s. Le charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal amĂ©liore la diffusion et la disponibilitĂ© des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au dĂ©veloppement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut ĂȘtre introduit dans une grande variĂ©tĂ© de sols. Il est particuliĂšrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacitĂ© d’amendement, le charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal est enrichi et biologiquement activĂ© avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : ‱ Charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal actif 31%‹‱ MatiĂšre organique 33%‹‱ MatiĂšre sĂšche 75%‹‱ C/N : 17‹‱ PH : 7,2‹‱ Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique‹‱ Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%‹‱ Potassium (K20) : 1,18%‹‱ Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%‹‱ MagnĂ©sium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrĂ©dient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minĂ©raux, il est qualifiĂ© « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zĂ©olithes sont des roches cristallines, prĂ©sentant des capacitĂ©s d'adsorption particuliĂšrement importantes vis Ă  vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrĂȘmement poreuses comme les charbons activĂ©s et elles peuvent ĂȘtre chargĂ©es Ă©lectriquement pour opĂ©rer comme des Ă©changeurs d'ions. La zĂ©olithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. UtilisĂ© dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues annĂ©es dĂ©jĂ , ce minerai aux propriĂ©tĂ©s filtrantes particuliĂšres commence Ă  se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privĂ©e, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrĂ©ment, de la rĂ©cupĂ©ration des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaĂŻs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - GrĂące Ă  leur propriĂ©tĂ© hydrophile, les zĂ©olithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'Ă  30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en prĂ©sence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de dĂ©shydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zĂ©olithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomĂ©rant). Cette propriĂ©tĂ© est trĂšs apprĂ©ciĂ©e dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zĂ©olithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irrĂ©versible, elles se comportent comme une rĂ©serve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zĂ©olithes permettent ainsi de rĂ©duire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'Ă  35 %. - Une zĂ©olithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les Ă©lĂ©ments minĂ©raux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relĂąche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du vĂ©gĂ©tal. - La capacitĂ© d'adsorption et l'Ă©norme rapport surface/volume des zĂ©olithes, vont permettre Ă  la fois la rĂ©tention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygĂ©nation au voisinage du systĂšme racinaire. Les zĂ©olithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au dĂ©veloppement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est rĂ©duit de 20 Ă  25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbĂ©s par la zĂ©olithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et Ă  l'Ă©vaporation. Composition minĂ©ralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec prĂ©paration microbienne Ă  base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulĂ©s (1 – 1,6 mm) Ă  base de rhizobactĂ©ries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore Ă  partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphĂšre par une flore bĂ©nĂ©fique. Composition :‹‱ MatiĂšre sĂšche : 96,8%‹‱ MatiĂšre organique : 91,5%‹‱ N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%‹‱ P total : 2%‹‱ K total : 1,7% Micro-granulĂ©s : ‹‱ Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%‹‱ Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%‹‱ Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de biĂšre est une matiĂšre vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thĂ©s de compost oxygĂ©nĂ©s notamment conseillĂ© pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure stimule la vie des sols Ă©galement Ă  l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espĂšce micro-bactĂ©rienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-Ă©lĂ©ments et diverse vitamines. Composition : ‱ 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), ‱ 2,3% (P205) ‱ 1,6% (K20) ‱ 35% de MO ‱ C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivĂ©es spĂ©cifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivĂ©e. Se connecte efficacement au systĂšme racinaire et forme un vaste rĂ©seau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delĂ  de la rhizosphĂšre Composition : ‱ Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante prĂ©sentant de nombreuses propriĂ©tĂ©s. ParticuliĂšrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliĂ©e idĂ©ale pour les pĂ©riodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira Ă©galement comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grĂące aux alcaloĂŻdes, aux allantoĂŻnes et jusqu'Ă  30% de protĂ©ine ! 100% dĂ©jection de vers de tĂ©nĂ©brions.‹TrĂšs riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matiĂšre directement compostĂ© par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matiĂšres vĂ©gĂ©tales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dĂ©gradation de litiĂšre forestiĂšre. Les bactĂ©ries et autres champignons obtenus grĂące au systĂšme digestif de nos vers, permettent la dĂ©gradation accĂ©lĂ©rĂ©e des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, Ă  la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement variĂ© de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter. Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. TrĂšs Ă©quilibrĂ©, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblĂ© seul ou en complĂ©ment de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL ‱ rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, MagnĂ©sium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE ‱ Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. ‱ Produit riche en Ă©lĂ©ments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. ‱ RĂ©gularitĂ© de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sĂ©nescence. Analyse chimique : ‱ NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 ‱ N-Azote 0.1% ‱ P205-Phosphore 18,6% ‱ K2O-Potasse 16,5% ‱ CaO-Calcium 11,7% ‱ MgO-MagnĂ©sium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisĂ©e Stimule la vie du sol et la vĂ©gĂ©tation. Composition : ‱ 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), ‱ 2,3% (P205) ‱ 1,6% (K20) ‱ 35% de MO ‱ C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre‹ascophyllum nodosum‹- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur dĂ©veloppement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - RĂ©sistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumiĂšre mieux captĂ©e - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - DĂ©veloppement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-Ă©lĂ©ments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - IdĂ©al en Ă©pandage et pour les thĂ©s de compost oxygĂ©nĂ©s. Important : notre Kelp est un goĂ©mon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la mĂȘme famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement Ă  plus de 50 mĂštres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la NorvĂšge.
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@SamDo
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đŸ‡ș🇾 Grow Journal – Week 13 Week thirteen. The plant seems in good shape overall, even though it’s starting to show some light discoloration on a few leaves. I don’t really know what’s causing it. Maybe it’s because the plant is growing and needs more nutrients now. Or maybe there’s some kind of nutrient blockage starting to appear. The substrate has been running for thirteen weeks, so it could be getting a bit loaded. I’m thinking a flush might help — just to give the root system a reset before moving forward. This week I also worked on defoliation and topping. We’re now at sixteen apexes, and I think that’s enough. It’s probably the last topping, because if I wait much longer, the plant is going to get too big and it’ll be harder to manage once she stretches. Aside from that, everything looks fine. However, I did notice a big drop in pH in the reservoir, which is strange. I added Athena Balance, just like always, but the pH keeps going down. I don’t really understand why it’s dropping so much. Other than that, everything’s okay — nothing special to report. The plant looks stable, and we’re getting close to the flowering stage.
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@m0use
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***Sponsored Grow*** = Medic || https://medicgrow.com || Grow = ***Sponsored Grow*** Ok, so bigger news this week, I got rid of one of the plants in the tent as it was an auto vs fast flower :/ and I performed a bunch of LST and some Defoliation to all the plants. This plant did not need a lot of defoliation if any at all. I just trimmed some of the lower nodes off as they would not get all that much light once it started to stretch and tied back some of its branches so it was a bit more even. The growth pattern on this plant vs the others in the tent this aorund is completely different. its so floppy and bendy, I have a feeling I am going to need to break a lot of branches come flower time to keep it from sky rocketing to the top of the tent. This will be the last week they are in Veg and switching to flower cycle next week with a 12/12 photoperiod. I was going to try a 13/11 but I wanted to test out the automatic light functions on the Medic Grows Minisun-2, So this will be relieved next week. Been having issues with PH in the medium again and some nutrient uptake. I am thinking I will switch to another brand I have to use up, trip tonic from my last grow on the balcony. Its a bit more complex and not as easy as mix into water and feed but I think its going to help me solve a lot of the issues I am getting. Given this update is a few days late some of these pics are not from today. the clones in the photos above are from the beginning of the week when I potted them up. They have not done well at all and may not make it. can only hope for the next few weeks they pull through. Till next week. ***Sponsored Grow*** Official Website: https://medicgrow.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/medicgrowled Twitter: https://twitter.com/medicgrow Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/medicgrow420/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNmiY4F9z94u-8eGj7R1CSQ Growdiaries: https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow
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There wasn’t a lot of noticeable growth this week as there has been prior. This plant can take anything you throw at it though. I dialed up the nutrients to level 12 and it didn’t even phase her. I did trim som of the worthless lower branches and leaves early in the week. Sorry about the video. The rotate button isn’t working
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@DE_BW
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Flowering week 5 and the plant is transitioning into the Overdrive phase, with an estimated 8–9 days remaining until harvest. Buds are stacking quickly and showing a surprisingly strong sweet strawberry-like aroma that fills the room. From above, subtle purple hues are starting to appear, adding a nice visual touch to an already very healthy-looking plant.
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@Manchu
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Mi experiencia con esta variedad, fue realmente buena. una semilla con mucho vigor, muy resistente a plagas, y con sabores y olores exquisitos
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@MotasKush
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Both plants are completely different but smoothie car # 2 hard sprinkled with buds with a sweet fruity scent, # 2 is rather earthy strong .. Both very interesting.
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@Chi_K24
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Hey folks. The first set of uploads for this week was taken on Wednesday. Super heavy defoilation done. Lots of excess growth under the main conopy so I lollipoped them. In total between the 4 plants I estimate about a 1lb worth of leaves! She's a bushy plant so I got to keep her in check. Regular watering of 40mL of molassas to 19L of dechlorinated h2o. Also did a bit of lst with wires, binder slips n the 3d printed clips you see in the photos. Work great and its opening up the canopy wide. I can already count more than 15+ potential main cola sites. Not sure how much for i can make befor flowing which starts mid August for us. I may have to starting thinking about when to apply our second round of top dress. I may start to feed her with higher ratios of the bloom amendments. Also a note. Watering with molasses is a new thing for me and it seems to work wonders with a organic grow since you are feeding the microbiology which in turns feeds the plant roots with co2 and organic ions. Pretty cool to see the plant respond well to the carbs added via watering. Another note to mention is I'm starting to notice some gnats hanging around the topsoil. I do belive the molasses sugars are attracting the critter which is bad! I have been combating them by spraying thr topsoil with neem oil. 1tbs per quart of warm water and 10 drops of non-posphate dish soap to act as a wetting agent. (Helps the neem oil dissolve into the water). I have been applying the solution to the top soil every 3-4 days and have notice a significant decrease in gnats flying around and the plant doesn't seem to mind it at all. I'm just hoping it helps kill the gnat worms if they did lay any eggs into the soil. Hope you guys enjoy this one.
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@Krissci
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Now on 8x nodes per plant.x Day 1 - SB2, 1 stem got broken during training đŸ˜©đŸ˜­đŸ˜©đŸ˜­đŸ˜©... Hoping it will be saved but Day 2 - more aggressive training on both plants to level the main frame
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@Gembel94
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Der Lady geht es bestens gedĂŒngt wird bei jedem Gießen. Bloombastic gibtes 2 mal in der Woche 8ml auf 4l.
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My pictures seem to have re organized themselves, just give me a few here and I'll get the full rundown . So this week ( day 21-23) was MAJOR defoliating. What my first step is to start taking the largest fan leaves . My next step is about halfway through the canopy I'll stop and then I'll start working on the very bottom of the plant now at this stage in the game anything that doesn't even have a nice Bud site so a nice white hair sticking bud at the very bottom like shoots I'll just cut them right off. This is the first steps of a main line but I don't complete the actual full main line I probably will try it sometime soon just not this time. So you take off anything that is a small shoot coming off the main stems and then your next step is . STOP. It might be a minute it might be 10 minutes, 20 min , it might be an hour or more ( my tip is don't wait a full day I try and do it within the first 12 hours of starting it) but I always stop just to look at what I've done sometimes if you get going too quickly you can end up doing way too much. Stand to talk to canopy and look what sites are getting hit by light what places are these families beneficial to use for photosynthesis. Anything that is not doing as much good will be taken off and at that point I'll probably do another you know 5-10 minutes of defoliation maybe take one or two more shoots at the bottom to ensure what's left there is a huge fat cola that's going to give you those huge buds . After this you're going to want to do your best to support those stems that are going to hold a lot more weight as if the plant would have been with all the shoots so you're going to want to just make sure that you have staking in place or some sort of support system to keep them from flopping over a breaking them in the future because that's one thing yeah it's great but then it'll get to a point where oh no stuff falling over and then it's just more hassle than it is helpful. I got alot more pictures to follow this week so stay tuned !!!
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@Fatnastyz
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11-29 Bad news, Banana Purple Punch has been let go. 😭 She was very stunted and tiny, so I made the bold decision to call it. Thought about letting her finish, but she was really small. But Strawberry cheesecake is making up for it!. This thing seems super happy atm! She has jumped to around 12 inches. Stretch is officially on! Triple grape is rockin too, few flimsy leafs, bud branches. One of the branches, kinda twisted itself. Imma look into that one. But both rockin and lovin the EM1. More importantly than the rest! I still haven't over watered or fed. 😁đŸ’Ș Time will tell, but I'm staying the course! Happy Holidays đŸ˜đŸ€˜ 12-1 2k water, silica 3ml, cal/mag 3ml, drops balance 1ml and some dust of yucca. 6.2 Stripped GC of anything blocking anything else . Couple blocked bud sites too. Wont touch for at least 3 days. Maybe 4, we will say next water? She may be a bit stressed 😂 Im sure the stripping didnt help. đŸ’ȘđŸ€˜ 3x- 11.5 inches tall Scc- 12.5 in tall . .
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@BLAZED
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Week 3 (27-11 to 3-12) What's good everyone? We started this week off with removing the 2 bottom shoots. The next day Santa came early 😁 Got 2 new clip fans and the AC5 Power strip from Spider Farmer. The power strip has 5 outlets you can control in the app, they can be turned on based on a time cycle, humidity or temps. It comes with a sensor that monitors light, temperature, and humidity. And a soil sensor that monitors soil moisture (VWC), temperature, and electrical conductivity (EC). It also has a light adapter to connect 2 lights, that can be controlled in the app aswell. The app shows the current VPD, i try to keep this around 1.0 In the middle of the week we topped her aswell. The next day we increased the light intensity from 30% to 35%. LUX: 13.000/13.500 to LUX: 15.000/15.500 This week's growing conditions were 17.9°C to 22.4°C with a humidity of 55.5% to 67.6% and watered 2 times with 0.5L. See you next week!