hi to all, brothers and masters of weed. my queens are really strong !!! I started with the flushing for these little girls who have started to turn purple .... the smell is very strong and it is really AMAZING The buds are literally covered with powerful glue that just touching them release a strong and pleasant smell .... I think I will not throw anything from the waste because every corner of the plant is covered with sparkling and powerful trichomes with which I hope to make good hashish I leave you wishing you a happy and abundant harvest for all of you see you around

The plants are doing great. The buds are getting thicker. The fragrance is incredible. The plants got their first week of cold nights. Now the buds have a beautiful pink-purple appearance. As last week, the 4 autopots of 24 l., (each containing 4 plants), received a nutrient solution of 0.5 liters per pot every 5 days.

Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos, y también, a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾 24 semanas de vida de esta sativa africana pura, 14 semanas desde el cambio a horario de floración 12/12h 🌲🧡 Hoy al amanecer he saqueado esta gran planta, la cual indiscutiblemente se ha coronado como la mejor de la temporada, he cosechado enormes colas y docenas de cogollos medianos, todos duros como rocas, pegajosos como la miel y tremendamente olorosos! ¡Mi bodega de sativa se recupera y ennoblece definitivamente... a fumar! Hasta la próxima y gracias por estar ahí... SALUDOS Y SALUD A TODOS!! ================================ Info de la cepa Malawi Gold: https://anesiaseeds.com/es/product/malawi-gold-landraces/ "Malawi Gold procede de Malawi, un país del sudeste de África, y es una de las plantas más psicoactivas del mundo." Anesia Seeds - Genética: Landrace africana - Sativa pura: 100% - Tiempo de Floración - 10-13 Semanas - Rendimiento en interior: 600/650 g/m² - THC Alto 20% - Sabores: Floral y Limón ================================

————————————————————— WEEK 4 / DAY 22-28 Mars Hydro FC-E3000 Floragard Professional GrowMix 11L Plant bag made of fleece Light: 55cm / 50%; Schedule: 24/0; PPFD: 592 umol/m2/s 20° C - 75 RH 300ml per Plant every 2-3days PH 6,5-7 1ml BioGrow; 0ml TopMax ; 0ml BioBloom 1ml CalMag #1 Blueberry Automatic #2 Blueberry Automatic Fan, extractor and pump ON 24/0. ————————————————————- -10.02.2025 The third vegetation week begins, the ladies look really good. The lamp has been set to 55cm and is running at 50%. -13.02.2025 The GrowBox was cleaned and disinfected once. The lowest/oldest leaves were cut off. As the soil had settled after a few weeks, the pots were filled with fresh soil. -16.02.2025 Today is the last day of the third week of vegetation. The plants look good, so far everything is quite unproblematic. Total Time: 701:00h Total Energy: 107.07kWh

so... was of to any awesome start to the week topped them and started low stress training but at the end off all of it.... my torque got caught on the wire and she got more of a topping then planned thats for sure!!! ill just let here go for gold now leave her be.. had bad root rot and the only thing i can get in Australia is root stop unless someone knows something better..... i soaked the two dwc in the root stop substance for 4-8 hours... it seems to have lightened the root colours. i decided to cut the one that had root rot bad and cleaned and prepared it to transplant it to coco...

Day 78 - Starting week 12 and tonight is her last night night and she’ll get the axe tomorrow. She’s sitting at about 30-35% amber and looking forward to her finishing up and trying this one. Day 79 - She’s all chopped up and into the drying box for the next 7-10 days. She was a beauty and ended up with 357 grams of wet bud. I’ll finalize the harvest when she’s dried and ready for cure.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de vida de estas Papaya Sherbet feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío , las 3 semillas que germinaron con éxito se colocaron en macetas de 0.6 litros y asomaron 3 , 100% ratio germinado. Esta semana conforme realicé el trasplante retiraré un ejemplar que me sobra. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 18h de luz, el foco está al 75% de potencia. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Start Flush

Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures from this point on.. I only saved some videos..

Day 49 This smaller plant is at day 49 and has clearly been topped earlier in its growth cycle. The topping has encouraged a bushier structure, with multiple main branches now developing evenly. Instead of a single dominant top, the plant is pushing out symmetrical side shoots, creating a wider canopy and setting the stage for multiple bud sites. The new growth is lighter green, showing healthy development, while the older fan leaves are darker and strong. The plant looks compact and well-structured, with tight internodes and balanced growth. The topping has slowed vertical stretch compared to an untopped plant, but the overall result is a sturdier, more manageable shape. There are no clear signs of stress or deficiency — leaves are healthy, edges are smooth, and the color is consistent. The canopy is lower and denser than the bigger plants, but that’s expected after topping. With some time, the side branches will continue to catch up, forming a nice even top layer. This plant is on track for a strong transition into flowering, with the topping already setting it up for a more even distribution of colas and better light penetration.

Here I am again, I've been neglected this diary for 3 weeks so I made a fast update on the last 3 weeks, not so detailed unfortunately. Today is day 58, some leaves are yellowing and I don't understand what it could be. It seems a Phosphorus deficiency but there are also this strange rusty spots on some leaves on top of the plant. From what I know in case of deficiencies the first leaves to suffer should be the ones in the bottom part of the plant but I don't know. I upped the calmag a little because the rust spots could indicate calmag deficiency. Learning something new everyday with this hobby, I just hope I manage to stop the problem because in my previous grow I had a similar problem and didn't managed to stop it so in harvest time all the leaves were basically dead. Anothe detail I'm not happy about is the not so even canopy I created. I think I started LST a little too soon and therefore deformed a little too much the plant. Next time I'll try to top for the first time. Other than the problem I mentioned the buds are stacking up really really nice and they smell amazing. Real frosty buds it seems as you can see from the video. I hope I'm doing good :D

starting flush

Week is going super well, did notice trichomes are starting to develop more in the coming weeks. Still struggling with watering mainly because i have 3 different strains and i dont know the flow yet. Watering schedule is thrice a week, I nutrient feed on sundays, water on wednesday and compost tea on fridays 500ml each pot. Will be monitoring the trichomes hereafter, today is day 90 from germination, super happy with the results no stunted growth or slow growth. Will set my harvest day between day 120-150. I am targetting longer harvest time for the purple punch because they didnt fight for the light and bullied by 2 monstrous sativas. Since it is indica dominant, i am going to chop them once i see 70% amber

3/16 324AM PRETTY GOOD ⚡️ 3/16 2:41PM nside the Genetics: How Ice-T & Montel’s Strain Was Born Seedsman Seeds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5eMAVat60M 3/19 330AM 👨‍🔬⚡️**Adding L-Proline (the amino acid supplement growers use) to plants on soft water can provide some helpful support against the stresses you're dealing with, but it's not a full fix—think of it as a stress-buffer rather than a mineral replacement.** Soft water (low in calcium and magnesium) often triggers **Ca/Mg deficiencies** in bloom stage (especially with Cha Ching or MaxiBloom, which don't supply much Ca/Mg on their own). This leads to issues like tip burn, leaf curl, weak cell walls, nutrient lockouts, oxidative damage (ROS buildup), and overall plant stress that feels like "the plant is struggling to hold it together." Proline steps in here as an **osmoprotectant**—it's one of the compounds plants naturally ramp up under stress. ### What Proline Actually Does in This Situation - **Helps with osmotic/water balance** — Soft water can disrupt turgor pressure and water movement inside cells (similar to mild drought or salinity stress). Proline stabilizes cell membranes and helps the plant retain water better, reducing wilting or limpness. - **Reduces oxidative stress** — Ca/Mg shortages cause free radical damage. Proline acts as an antioxidant and protects proteins/enzymes, so deficiency symptoms (yellowing, spotting, slowed bud development) don't spiral as fast. - **Improves overall resilience** — In cannabis and general hydro/soil grows, L-proline (or full amino acid mixes containing it) has been shown to boost stress tolerance, speed recovery, and even support better nutrient uptake indirectly. Studies and grower reports note it helps under nutrient imbalance, drought-like conditions, and environmental swings—exactly the secondary stresses soft water creates. - **Bloom-stage bonus** — Since you're already in late flower with Cha Ching/MaxiBloom, proline can support resin/terpene production and bud density without pushing excessive veg growth. It won't magically add the missing Ca or Mg (those are still critical—soft water + high-P bloom nutes often screams for CalMag), but it can make the plant more tolerant while you correct the root issue. ### How Much Effect to Expect Right Now - **Positive but moderate** — Many hydro/RO growers add amino acids (including proline) specifically for soft water setups and report less burn, better leaf health, and stronger finishes. It won't turn a severe deficiency around overnight, but it can slow the damage and give your plants a fighting chance in the final weeks. - **No downside at proper doses** — It's very safe and plants use it quickly. ### How to Add It (Practical Dosing) - **Source**: Pure L-Proline powder (available cheap online—make sure it's the plant-grade L-form, not human supplements). - **Root feed** (with your Cha Ching/MaxiBloom): Start at 0.5–1 g per gallon (about 100–200 ppm). Mix into your res or feed water once a week. pH as normal. - **Foliar spray** (often more effective for quick stress relief): 0.25–0.5 g per gallon + a drop of surfactant. Spray lightly every 5–7 days in the dark period. - **With your current nutes**: Yes, it layers fine—reduce if you see any tip burn. Many run it alongside MaxiBloom + Cha Ching in soft water without issues. - **Best timing**: Now through harvest is perfect, especially if you're noticing stress signs already. **Real talk**: The biggest win will still come from adding a proper CalMag supplement (like Botanicare or General Hydro's) at 0.5–1 ml/gal or whatever your PPM tests call for. Proline + CalMag together is a strong combo for soft water grows. If you're running pure RO/soft, most experienced growers treat this as standard. 3/19 445am BKO Blueberry KnockOut!! (Gelato 44 by RQS & Bubbles Blueberry F4 by Grimm Brothers Seeds) my own creation!!👨‍🔬 A spoonful of butter helps the sugar go down, Im helping. 3/19 10:42PM mmm butter and sugar are just a few ingredients shy of cookie dough, good enough. Now ICE-T BODYCOUNT Grows efficiently in a one gallon with very little effort No real LST, lower than normal lighting, so cheaper to grow. MONTEL: growing great in such a small container!! Should have topped, she is tall. Colors are coming in now, very strong also growing great at low watt so very efficient as well!!!

Day 14 Flowering: hi all. We have had another very happy week growing with these ladies from Zamnesia. The size and shapes that they are now formed into look so like cabbages with nice thick , green and bushy branching in all of the pots now. Training has been a battle with them pulling the legs overnight and needing re staking further out to keep them flatter. The canopy itself is forming up nice now with the strongest tips being the ones hitting the top now. Once stretch has done, I will be defoliating to feed the lowers that are dying to get involved with the thick supporting secondary branches everywhere. All 3 of the Amnesia haze are thick leaved, monster fanned and chunky stemmed beasts. I am glad I trained them lower as the growth could have easily become a concern in heights for sure. The huge cabbages that have been created now are perfect for a strip out soon to get light to the stems as much as possible #1 Amnesia haze f.i.m girl is by far the thickest Bush. She does have a really nice crown on her too with some serious side growth fighting out of the shadows and creating their own mini plants it seems. It will be good to get to what is her actual contenders as she is so thick with growth , it is hard to tell how many mains will be joining the fun. #2 Is also a great size to work with and will produce some nice yield #3 is a similar size to #1 and has been easy to work with too they have been lifting the pegs easily as they grow each day now so I will be using wire soon to secure them for the final push. Both of the Girl scouts cookies are very productive with growing tips. #1 is a slightly different pheno i think and has a slight darker green to her too. Growing in a nice thicket so far but has been pegged along the way too. Her sister #2 is totally different in her structure with an absolute flurry of bud sites dude to the training out of her throughout. She is like a mini manifold of sorts with all that usual popcorn rubbish being able to share more light. I dont expect huge colas with this and from her general limb thickness but i think she will be filled with decent medium sized nugs. They do both need a defol soon to really give all the nodes a chance go shine. I am planning to do some this week and the last bits at around 21 f. All told they are really looking like a great yield already so with a little more training before I let them get on with it , could be the best run yet !! UPDATE###### Day 15 and i did a defol today. This will allow all those growing tips to find the light. Next few days will be interesting as they recover and get busy.

Fattening up the ladies, finally all in flower. Honey Cream is 5 weeks into flowering Old Lemongrass is 2.5 weeks into flowering Power flower is 2 weeks into flowering Special Queen #1 is in the 1st week of flowering

Gorilla Cookies Auto - Fastbuds And 2 random Cookies and Cream seeds Very excited for this new grow SF1000 ~40% ; 30 cm Germination GC on 09.01.2023

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Started off by setting up the growing environment and dialling everything in such as; RO Water for the RDWC hydroponic system. Water Heater being set at 20 degrees C. Water chiller being set at 21 degrees C. pH being set at 5.7/5.8 Room Temp and humidity 20/23 Degrees C / 60%/80%RH. Instead of using rockwool cubes to place my seeds, I put them directly into the clay pebbles. I then used a DIY humidity dome to place over the seeds until they make an appearance. I have been top feeding RO water every 6 hours. Foil was used to cover the net pot to ensure no light leaks were going into the system. Highly important in DWC. Will add some light nutrients once seeds are more established. Until the next one!