1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Hi everyone :-) She grows beautifully :-) This week she was given Canna Bio Vega for the first time :-). This week I will start topping, next week with LST :-) I wish you all a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 👍

Défoliation

Week 8, more and more trichomes everyday

She is growing back out nicely and in a week or so I am starting on revealing her rootsystem First start has begun….🙏❤️

Nella tenda Iniziano a sentirsi odori floreali e alcune delle signorine stanno prendendo colore sulle foglie della parte apicale 💜 Sto innaffiando le piante 🌱 a giorni alterni perché ho diverse tabelle da seguire, le Gorilla 🦍 di RQS e Zamnesia sono a circa 1.9 EC mentre quelle di Seeds Mafia a 1.8, le altre 2 di Anesia invece sono a 1.7 e andranno ad aumentare a 1.8 alla prossima settimana…cerco di cambiare ogni giorno posizione a farle girare nel box perché almeno riescono a prendere luce da tutti i lati…sono molto soddisfatto della SF2000 di Spider Farmer sta facendo un ottimo lavoro e le bollette non ne risentono come pensavo 😆 oltre che avere un ottimo spettro che aiuta le piante a essere in salute il più possibile 😎 Ci vediamo con altri aggiornamenti tra qualche giorno!

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 The 2 High Mars Keep Growing, look doing good 😁 💪 Started, topping, defoliation, training. 💧 Give water each 2/3 day And vaporise plant with water + Plagron Roots (1ml/l) 0.5 l Water + Roots + Grow + Zym (1 + 4 + 1 ml/l) 0.5 l Water + Roots + Grow + Zym (1 + 4 + 1 ml/l) 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 60 cm. Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 7 Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Anesia Seeds - High Mars 36% THC🌲🌲 https://anesiaseeds.com/product/high-mars/

The girls continue to grow very nicely! All the girls have gone into flowering and I have upgraded to the 600W light now to push these girls and see what we can get from the final harvest 😋 They are still on the vega feed for now whilst they are in the early flower stage. Not alot to report except the front girl had a very slight amount of nute burn but rolling with it as the other girls are fine and its minimal signs so far! If it gets worse maybe will adjust the feed!

03/15/2021 Reppoting of GSC done I used Bonide(4-10-3) Root&Grow with iba! to lessen shock of transplant and heavy defoliating. Flipping to 12-12 today (the first clones will be for outdoors) made before and after videos of defoliation, and reppot. Blue Dream is cruising along nicely with a little LST bending of branches & stems,so all in all not a bad week..

I make topping and this is the day after topping so they look growing nice. The next 2 days I will change them to bigger pot I already prepared so let’s gooooooo Growing guyssss

Experiencing what seems to be my first nutrient lock out. Bought a soil ph tester from homdepo its reading 7.0 so that what bring me to that conclusion on top of the slower growing and the slight yellowing around the leaves. I was being cheap and using the liquid ph tester that comes with the ph up and down and im regretting now seeing my plants in not the best condition. Im ordering a better ph pen today i used the vivosun one the i currently have got the water to 5.8 checked the run off and its at 6.2 hopefully that helps. Saturday im going to top dress and water at 5.8 aging and im thinking that should put me back on track Any advice i could definitely use some tips and pointers or advice

Reminds me of bbmk

Another beautiful pheno of the big jeff by Gecko seeds which is the cross of: Cookies kush X Casey Jones, the plant is showing beautiful indica hybrid characteristics, it's gonna be a wonder plant for sure! Let's keep on working!! 💛💚❤️👨‍🌾

🍉🎂🌈🍬

So this week has really absolutely crawled by from my perspective, I imagine it is common with growing that the closer you get to harvest the further away it seems. Anyway I am a bit worried about the middle sized plant - she has a lot more yellowing of fan leaves from the inside out. My reaction to this was to flush her with clean water, my thinking is that everything was fine before I started feeding, and perhaps I didn't mix properly and the soluble stuff was unevenly distributed. That was yesterday (week 6 day 4) It's too soon to tell if this has helped, fingers crossed it doesn't begin to affect other leaves. Despite this being only 5 days into week 6, there have already been fairly drastic changes. Some of the buds are starting to fatten more, and I'd say we're at about 15% pistils amber now, the smell has noticeably increased day by day. It's really beautiful to look the plants in the dark with a flashlight or phone light, the way the light bounces off the frosting of trichomes, as if someone had sneaked in the middle of the night and misted my plants with a million tiny diamonds. I think I will stop feeding the middle plant now and water only (unless it gets worse). The other two I will continue to feed until the end of this week. At the rate of accelerated change I suspect harvest time may not be too long past the end of next week. It's a shame they don't have much more time to grow but at least what small quantity does come from them, I am determined it is harvested at the right time. At the end of week six I have watered only as I now think these plants are maybe 7-12 days away from harvest.

Her roots are boosted amazing and i transplanted her to 7 galon smart pot And fed her first time 😍😍 Lets see what will happen 🤔🤔

Outside right now untill there is room in the tent Day 15: Looks good 👍🏻 watered with rain water 👌🏻 keeping the soil moist 🌧️ Day 18: looking good and transplanted her into a bigger pot with Plagron All Mix and Dolomit Lime. 🌊Watered with rain water and 1 ml/l Hesi Boost, 1 ml/l Cal Mag, and 1 ml/l Green Sensation. EC at 1.0 and a pH of 6.4 . Day 21: looking good and watered again. Watered with rain water and 1ml/l Powerzyme, 1 ml/l Hesi Boost, 1 ml/l Cal Mag, 1 ml/l Bloom Complex and 1 ml/l Green Sensation. EC at 1.0 and a pH of 6.4.

Hey now, I hope everyone is having a great weekend. The ladies had another great week, I got the Durban Nights, Red Hot Cookies, and Sundae Driverr's second toppings completed on day 26, and I got the second toppings done on the Green Crack and Bubble Runtz on day 27. Right now I have 4 mains on each plant, and I will top each one this week, probably in the next 3-4 days which will leave with me 8 mains. So the mainlines will be completed during week 5, and I plan to flip to flower around week 7. I am still seeing a couple holes on the leaves of the Sundae Driver, but I have treated her twice with neem oil and I don't see any new holes since the last application and I can't see any bugs even with magnification. I am still not sure if it was a bug issue or just a genetic thing. Either way I am not too concerned at this point because they all seem to be very healthy. I am still feeding GH nutrients, silica, cal mag, and maxi grow. I will transition to flower nutrients approximately one week after flipping to flower. I have found that it is important to continue feeding plenty of Nitrogen through the stretch. The only way I would transition sooner is if I was running out of vertical space. Still very pleased with the Spectrum X from Medic Grow. I am running her at 69% and the plants seem very happy and healthy. The heat and humidity are finally letting up in my region so it is nice to be able to open some windows and drop the temp outside the grow tent. I hope everyone has a great weekend, Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

Alrighty growmies 👌🏻 so I’ve had a bit of a week set back due to issues, but back on track, the heat wave has definitely given a few girls a bit of a hard time not being able to attend but none the less, lifted the light again, trying to get on top of this PH fluctuating I’m having again using these stupid PH drops as my PH pen also keep jumping. Besides that I’ve managed to make a new home for the clones and got them under a couple UFO LEDs so that will house them for a few more weeks and al bring out the 600w HPS for them, but these runtz since being repotted have not taking nicely to it at all even using dynomyco so again hopefully by Friday they should be past that stage if not on flowering either way going to be a bomb scare when these taller plants start to stretch might have to bring out the net for sure 🤣🤙🏻 if all goes wrong at least I have my clones for back ups, keep eyes open for the incoming fire thou 🔥

Im not sayin a fkn word about these till Heather says I can. Ive already said too much