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Mar 28th - plants have been moved into 1 gal pots - gently watered-in the plants to get them through the transplant - DynoMyco was sprinkled into the 1 gallon pots ahead of the transfer, and the Solo Cups Root-Ball, was also sprinkled with Myco, making sure any exposed roots made good contact Mar 29th - a watering program begins tonight, Its posted above, next on 31st (day 3) - p.m. feeding saw 400 ml h20 per plant. (First Official feeding and there is no containment for any water leaving the pots… i held-back 100ml ea. just to see if the Pots leaked… all good for now x 30) Mar 31 - day 3 of the watering cycle; 350ml tonight (posted above) - petals are big enough on the true leaves; foliar spray @ lites-out - measured Soil pH, found it to be 7.1; Future waterings will be ~ 6.2-6.3 to help bring the soil pH a little lower towards mid 6’s Apr 4 - watering tonight ~ 250ml ea - topped-up the Soil in each Pot. Maximizing the Root Zone this whole grow
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@Xpie77
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Verslag derde week bloei – Purple Punch De derde week van de bloeifase bij Purple Punch is een cruciale periode waarin de planten een aanzienlijke ontwikkeling doormaken. Hieronder vind je een overzicht van wat je kan verwachten 1. Plantengroei Bloemvorming: De eerste tekenen van echte toppen worden zichtbaar. De bloemkelken beginnen op te zwellen en trichomen ontwikkelen zich. Stretch: De planten zijn nog steeds bezig met hun "stretch"-fase. Dit is vaak het laatste moment waarin ze aanzienlijk in hoogte groeien. Zorg dat de afstand tot de lamp optimaal blijft om verbranding te voorkomen. 2. Verzorging en voeding Voedingsschema: Fosfor- en kaliumrijke voeding (PK-boosters) wordt belangrijker om de bloemontwikkeling te ondersteunen. Blijf stikstof in balans houden; te veel kan de bloei vertragen. pH-waarden: Houd de pH van het voedingswater rond de 6.0 voor optimale opname. Watergift: Regelmatig water geven, maar voorkom overbewatering. 3. Licht en temperatuur Lichtcyclus: Houd de cyclus op 12/12 uur. Controleer dat er geen lichtlekken zijn tijdens de donkere periode. Temperatuur en luchtvochtigheid: Dag: 22-26°C. Nacht: 18-21°C. Luchtvochtigheid: 40-50%. Een te hoge luchtvochtigheid kan schimmelvorming veroorzaken. 4. Controle en monitoring Trichomen: Begin de ontwikkeling van trichomen te monitoren. De toppen zullen meer glinsteren naarmate ze rijpen. Plagen en schimmels: Inspecteer de planten regelmatig op tekenen van plagen, zoals spintmijten of meeldauw. Luchtcirculatie: Zorg voor goede ventilatie om hotspots te vermijden. Resultaten derde week De toppen van Purple Punch zouden nu meer volume moeten krijgen en de kenmerkende fruitige aroma's beginnen zich te ontwikkelen. Dit is het moment waarop de genetische kwaliteiten van de soort echt naar voren komsn
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A tale of two plant that are the same strain Plant A is growing like a champ just waiting for tricone to be turn red10% but other then that not issues Plant b I gave a hair cut and trim hoping the buds will fatten up also I love one of my light closer to see if that will help
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Last day of light today next 2days will be of darkness and then I will harvest all plants. They are looking good and strong smell . Cheese buds are hard as rocks and the ogkush smell sting diesel smell. Very happy with this grow..
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This girl is out of control with the growth. She has grown 12 inches and is not stopping. Seriously unbelievable. I think you can actually see it grow just watching it. She is going to be huge.
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Just first Plant harvested 5.10- second big sister harvested And two Lil Sisters too..Now theyr already drying in room ....next update in few days cause our weather Is not going to be so good ... 8.10 some of dried buds already cuted.. And puted to glass jars
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@XanHalen
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Dec 7th: One plant doing fantastic, one is more sensitive and I’m don’t everything I can to get the most out of it, lesson learned, start more and keep the best.
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Overall, the Girls are doing great. #2 is still showing some nitrogen excess, but is doing well. I’ve adjusted her feeding specifically in hopes to correct. #1 is not showing the same issue, and is motoring along. Both are stacking nicely, and are bringing on some smell now, and are sticky to the touch. I estimate about 3 weeks more, but who really knows with Autoflowers? Happy Gardening 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨
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Moin, Die 5. Blütewoche ist fast vorbei und die Hitze ist kaum noch zu kompensieren. Trotzdem zeigt die White Sweet Candy OG wie stabil sie ist, die Blütenbildung geht in beirrt weiter. War der Geruch letzte Woche noch wenig süß und größtenteils etwas piney eher nach eingelegten Gurken riechen, was mich stark an eine White Widow erinnerte, die ich Anfang letzten Jahres gegrowt habe, ist er mittlerweile von einer merklichen süßen Note begleitet. Insgesamt würde ich es als Mischung aus einer süß-würzigen Fementation. Wir befinden uns aber auch erst Mitte der Blüte und da wird noch deutlich mehr an Komplexität dazu kommen, da bin ich mich sicher. Das einzige was diese Woche an wirklich Arbeit angefallen ist, war der Tausch der Tropfer da einer von den 4 verstopft war für Ersatz war schon gesorgt und solange wurde die White Sweet Candy OG 1x täglich zusätzlich per Hand gegossen sodass genug Drain in die Wanne unter dem Drainmaster läuft. Dieser Strain hat wirklich das Potenzial einer meiner liebsten Sorten zu werden. Hey, The fifth week of flowering is almost over, and the heat is becoming almost unbearable. Still, the White Sweet Candy OG is proving just how stable it is and flowering continues unabated. While last week the scent was still only slightly sweet and mostly a bit piney, smelling more like pickled cucumbers which strongly reminded me of a White Widow I grew early last year. It’s now accompanied by a noticeable sweet note. Overall, I’d describe it as a blend of sweet and spicy notes. But we’re only halfway through flowering, and I’m sure there will be significantly more complexity to come. The only real work I had to do this week was replacing the drippers, since one of the four was clogged. I already had a replacement on hand, and in the meantime, I watered the White Sweet Candy OG by hand once a day to ensure enough water drained into the tray beneath the Drainmaster. I love this strain so far!
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@Wenz004
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Stretch hört langsam auf - leider bissl zu spät obersten Buds werden zu nah an der Haupt-led (klebt bereits an der Decke mit Gurten) sein - das ist mist. RH war diese Woche mist - konnte es einfach nicht runterbekommen (trotz starker Bechneidung) und somit keine hohe VPD fahren. Durst und Transpiration waren enorm. Weiter gehts mit Sativa Langabenteuer
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Here we are at the moment that we enjoy the most, the flowers are starting to form, our Green Cure CBD reveals the sex and of course like all Zamnesia plants I will be the father of two beautiful girls. One is growing straight and is further along in flowering but I will show it to you soon, I have focused a lot on this one in main - lining. It is a plant that has a good internodal distance so we have more time to shape it before the woodification and it lends itself very well to lst interventions even a little late. I managed to open it on the main line very well and the lateral branches are really, growing and stretching properly. We will not see the super productive trees of the autumn harvest but I am willing to bet that we will have lots of beauty and lots of resin in beautiful bush-sized plants. Wait for the uncle BreadandBuds.... We are still using soil, feeding and all the recommended additives from Plagron 100% organic. We have moved on to the flowering start schedule that keeps the same Power Roots additives - Sugar Royal, Pure Zym and adds the flowering stimulant dear in my house for obvious reasons of Biscotti. Of course the basic fertilizer is now Alga Bloom. The Green Sensation when the flowers are already a bit swollen, do not start immediately. The Power Buds must immediately stimulate the start and development of the buds. ---- Decide on the right soil and calculate your fertilizer schedule based on the soil on the official website. -- www.plagron.com Try a seed of this variety that drives us crazy.. ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10672-zamnesia-seeds-green-cure-cbd-f1-automatic.html Description Zamnesia // Zamnesia's breeding team has harnessed F1 genetics to bring you Green Cure CBD F1 Automatic. This autoflowering cultivar is easy to grow, accessible and reliable for all levels of experience. Ready in just 11 weeks, growers can expect impressive yields of tasty buds with a clear-headed effect that's ideal for meditative moments. All the best that mother nature can offer is on ---- www.zamnesia.com
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23 May 2021 Today starts week 17 of my grow, which means I just have 3 more full weeks left till HARVEST!!! I’ve gotten to a point where watering/feeding every day is too much, but watering every 2 days is insufficient. I’m going to try and start watering in the evening (like today), and then skipping tomorrow, but watering earlier in the day on the second day. Hopefully that will be better. I have to be honest.... I’m sick of this plant. Not in a bad way, I’m just NEVER going to let a plant veg for 10 weeks again!! Especially when the strain I’m growing has a 10 week flowering time to mature. My pH meter is officially broken. I tried calibrating it today, and it was almost 4 full points higher than what it was supposed to be. Anyway, I used the last week feed chart today, but I believe I’m going to shift the next feeding to the ripening stage so I can do that the next 2 weeks, then flush for the last full week before harvest. So I fed the same as I have been. I chilled 1 gallon of water to 51 degrees F, then added CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraBloom 15ml. I normally have to add somewhere between 2-3 ml’s of pH UP, so today I added 2.5ml. The TDS was 932 ppm, and the runoff TDS was 3386 ppm. The soil was super dry, and there was hardly any runoff. Which is why I’m going to adjust the feeding schedule to be every 1.5 days. 🤷‍♂️ 25 May 2021 My plan to feed early today was thwarted by the need to find a new pH meter because I switched up my nutrients today and I have no idea how to adjust them without a new meter. So, I spent the day searching and looking through 8 different stores until someone finally recommended a shop i’d never heard of before. And, it had everything a grower could ever need!! Awesome shop! More expensive than Amazon, but it’s local and has anything I might need in a pinch. Anyway, I shifted to the Ripening Stage today, and with the assistance of that shop keeper, I got a new supplement for late stage blooming! I’m adding General Hydroponics - KoolBloom (2-45-28). Just a half tsp in a gallon of water. So with that, I also stopped giving CALiMAGic as directed on the feed chart, but still gave FloraMicro 5ml, and FloraBloom 15ml. The initial pH was 6.0, so I added pH UP 3ml, which adjusted the pH to 6.5. TDS was 801 ppm going in. The runoff pH was 5.7, and TDS was 3688 ppm. Tent temp was 81 degrees F, and humidity was 45%. The plant is smelling strong now and trichome formation is doing well. 27 May 2021 Possible disaster in The_Good_Twin’s grow room!! The AC in my house died yesterday, and it got up to 93 degrees F inside my grow tent. 🤭 there was nothing I could do except open it up and add more fans. I tried adding a bucket of ice in front of the fans, but that didn’t do much. All my efforts got the tent down to 91 degrees F, but that’s it. I was afraid to look at it today, but it doesn’t look any different at first glance. The AC tech is fixing my issue, so I’m going to feed as soon as he’s gone. I’m keeping with the ripening level of nutrients. Continuing to add the KoolBloom .5tsp, FloraMicro 5ml, and FloraBloom 15ml added to a gallon of chilled water (53.2 degrees F). The initial pH was 6.1. I added pH UP 2.5ml, which adjusted the pH to 6.6. The TDS in was 749 ppm. Runoff pH was 5.9, and TDS was 3252 ppm. The AC is fixed now, so I hope all continues to go well. 29 May 2021 Today is the last day of week 17. I am continuing with the ripening feed stage for another week after today. The temperature in the tent has cooled down some to 77 degrees F, and the humidity was 45%. I didn’t have time to chill the water much today and was 72 degrees F at the time given. Nutrients given: KoolBloom .5 tsp, FloraMicro 5ml, and FloraBloom 15ml. The initial pH was 6.2, so no adjustment was needed. The TDS in was 1000 ppm. The runoff pH was 6.0, and TDS runoff was 2535 ppm. The buds are getting bigger, and more frosty with trichomes. The smell is wonderful as well. Just 2 more weeks till harvest.
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Once again, I welcome you back to my summer grow🙂💚 Still adding more bloom and PK boost to the nutrients mix and also bumping up the light a bit 😎🤙🏻 I started to add UV/IR for one hour a day, mainly before lights go out 🙂 Happy growing y’all 💚 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SpectrumX LED🔥 @medicgrow 880 Watt⚡️ 2x UV/IR LED panels 💥 2.7 μmol/J🔥 Full Spectrum V1,F1,VS,FS🌈 Display with PPFD & Live spectrum Light measurement: Apogee MQ-610 & Apogee DLI-600. Fertiliser: Organics Nutrients https://www.organicsnutrients.com/en/ Green Buzz Nutrients Discount Code: GD42025 Grants 25% with a minimum Order value at 75 Euro. https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/
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@Kakui
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V15, riego con pH 6.1 y EC 1.2, las plantas ya se han recuperado del stress de hace unos días atrás, desde el próximo riego el agua tendrá sus nutrientes completos. Se ajustó el LST en algunas plantas. V17, definitivamente ya se recuperaron del stress por sobre fertilización, están creciendo al ritmo esperado, con bien color y hojas "felices". V18, y bueno, de nuevo surge un imprevisto, intentando hacer LST a un tallo acabo de romperlo, le hice una especie de entablillado esperando que se recupere. Hoy toco riego con pH 6.2 y EC 1.5, las plantas crecen bien.
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High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.
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Loving these ILGM OG KUSH!!! This is my 3rd grow of them and they just keep getting better and better!! The middle one should finish up by the end of this month if not sooner. About 80 percent of the pistols have turned. I am going to start checking trichomes very soon. The will definitely plump up in the next few weeks!!
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@Tezza2
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This week has been easy just like any other, how ever i did get one broken branch i did try to fix it but i don't think it will make it
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Buds get denser everyday, love em. From next watering (W13 D3) I will start providing blackstrap molasses in every feed.
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The smell is amazing. And amazingly strong. It’s been really humid here and my carbon filter isn’t working well. Few more weeks for the kush. Maybe 3-4 for the cbd Sativa. Getting excited. But as always not looking forward to trim.