Biosys insteat micobe tea once a week

Side branches are looking really awesome.. one is very heavy already :)

Green House Feeded one is enjoying life and growing big health buds. She received her last lollipoping. Advanced Nutrients one is still struggling. I am increasing the feeding per Advanced Nutrients supports suggestion. Let’s hope she recovers.

This is the final week! My wife will be having a baby on 3/11/19, so I need to harvest on 3/10 no matter what. The trichomes are looking good. Mostly cloudy with a few amber and a few remaining clear. I could probably push this another 5 days or so, but since this is already a pretty heavy indica, I think this it great time to harvest, particularly given the circumstances. Really happy with the level of frostiness on these buds...they look super dank!. Can't wait to harvest and cure these babies :)

So zum Wichtigen 🤪🤤🍯🍯🍯🍈 Gepresst wurden 64 G Smalls von Fresca Melon die ganz unten wuchsen, also eigentlich die Reste der Reste 🤣 & 30 G Permanent Marker aber Tops 😎🤤 Welche ich leider nicht weiter Dokumentiert hatte bis auf das Jar, was mit 8,3 g da steht, also anders heftige Ausbeute! Die 64 g smalls hatte ich zuvor eingefroren und wollte diese waschen, da das nicht so geklappt hatte dachte ich mir nochmal trocknen und pressen… Alle wurden in 90 Micron Bags gepresst, Tatsächlich bis 6000 psi was im Nachhinein wohl zu gut gemeint war aber sei es drum… Aus 64 g trocken Fresca Melon 1,5 Wochen getrocknet im Cure Fridge Self Made, sind insgesamt ca 7 g raus gekommen, dafür das es echt fluffige smalls waren ganz gut, Rosin riecht super und schmeckt sehr lecker, solange man unter 210 C bleibt beim dampfen bleiben die Lipide etc. im Banger und man hat keinen Reiz oder Ähnliches. Geschmacklich und Wirkung super keine Frage. Aus den 30 G Headbuds vom Permanent Marker sind tatsächlich heftige 8,1 G raus gekommen. Diese haben bereits 1 Monat + cure hinter sich und nach dem Pressen war die Konsistenz bereits wie Butter, müsste nicht einmal Wippen aber habs trotzdem getan. Alle rosins wurden nach 7-10 Tagen gewipped. Werde in Zukunft den Großteil meiner Beute zu Rosin verarbeiten da ich das viel lieber dampfe, die Wirkung viel angenehmer und cleaner ist. 🤪🤤🍈🍯

Aug 29 - Sep 04 (Week 17, day 113- day 119) Thank you to the universe ✨. Thank you to the sun 🌞 for providing this year. Thank you to everyone following. The season is going great as you can see from the pictures 🖼️🖼️🖼️. The caterpillars (las orugas 🐛) have not returned--and if they did then they are gone for now. There's just about 5 to 6 weeks to go according to the information on the seed box. Im super excited--by the way--this weed smells like the peel on a ripe mango mixed with orange peels 🍊--it also has that distinct sweet weed smell 🌿 with a little minty and lemony 🍋 mixed in. Ummm. Delicious. 🤤 Gracias al universo ✨. Gracias al sol ☀️ por proveer este año. Gracias a todos siguiendo el diario. Esta temporada va fenomenal por lo que pueden ver en las fotos 🖼️🖼️🖼️. Las orugas (the caterpillars 🐛) no han regresado--y si regresaron, pues ya se fueron por ahorita. Quedan casi seis semanas para cosechar según la información en la cajita de semillas. Estoy súper emocionado--de por si--esta mota huele a la cáscara de un mango maduro mezclado con cáscaras de naranja 🍊--y también tiene ese olor distinto de la mota 🌿 dulce con un poco de menta y limoncito 🍋 mezclado. Ummm. Rico papi. 🤤

Well this pretty lady is in her final stretch. I had to pull a few buds off that had bud rot. After that happened I decide to take a few of the top colas close to where the bud rot happened as I didn’t want to lose them as well (see pics). Even though i chopped quite a few colas off the top she is still a beast!! This plant has been a real winner!! I highly recommend growing this plant especially if you are going to do an outdoor grow. Dinafem deserves props for these genetics

Día 129 (07/10) Riego con 750 / 1.000 ml H2O de osmosis Empiezan a moderarse las temperaturas con 28 ºC de máxima Día 130 (08/10) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O de ósmosis Las temperaturas están sobre 25 °C Día 131 (09/10) Riego con 500 / 750 ml H2O de ósmosis Día 132 (10/10) Riego con 750 / 1,250 ml H2O de ósmosis Día 133 (11/10) Riego con 750 / 1,250 ml H2O de ósmosis Día 134 (12/10) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O de ósmosis Reviso los tricomas y estos indican que estamos más o menos a una semana de la cosecha! 50% trasparentes / 50% nublados Día 135 (13/10) Riego con 1 litro H2O pH 6,5 + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,3 g/L 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

The best plant I have ever grown. Very resistant, and great flowering, fat buds, large flowers and beautiful colors on top of a whitish resin. This week there is no fertilizer, so as not to have problems with the harvest regarding taste. The leaves turn yellow quickly.

Not doing too bad. Seems to have settled now and stopped stretching, Smells pretty peppery, like a tangy pepper haha Start her on PK warrior next week see how she does. She's got the sumo booost foliar as well as root feed this week. All healthy though she's loving the shogun stuff 👌🏻

Week 2 starts the 3 plants on the right are the Blood moon gelato. Jungle inc 😅

hello everyone i make a new scrog

The banner is so thick with leaves its insane. Find myself endlessly defoliating her. She isn't as wide as the skittles but she still has a load of potential tops. I'm going to start nutrients again and aim to flip her to flower in a week.

shortest plant is 50cm tallest being 95cm. They are all doing wonderfully, most of autos are budding nicely and all of the photoperiods are ready to flower. looking very promising. i am changing my light schedule to 14-10 to kick these girls into flower.. this will give the plants an extra 17% (or so) a day under the lights.rather than 12-12. i cant be fussy as i only have one grow space but if my research is correct these should grow beautifully! the autos are well ahead so shouldnt affect my harvest weight too much. like i say i cant be fussy! thanks for looking

Week 5 Day 39 Tucked what i could and they've popped back up pretty quick some started stretching more. It's a 6 inch trellis which has way to much space per square. I wish i could've found a 3 inch square trellis that was plastic instead of rope. Going to look into making my own next run. Feed liquid nutes twice a week

Week 7 Although the Gelato is the smallest of the bunch it's definitely the fastest flowering. Also I'm trying out a little experiment if the results are positive I might share more about it in the future..

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

*BIG SORRY for the photo, hps light do that.) 🎄AND THESE IS CHRISTMAS, and an happy new years for you... plant is blooming very wel nice hollidays 😌🎄

Esta semana, ya recuperadas de la poda apical y Fim les hago la poda de bajos o lollilopping, entutado y Scrog. Es mi primer cultivo y se me han descontrolado las sativas en altura y en cantidad de plantas, pero voy a ver si me apaño y saco Al menos buenas copas... He regado 2 días con fertilizantes con 1.1 de ec y otro con solo agua y enzimas. Hoy comprobé el ec del sustrato midiendo el agua sobrante y algunas plantas me ponían 1.8 ec y otras 2.5 ec... Me aconsejáis que siga regando para que sobre agua por el macetero ? Estoy usando maceteros de 11 litros y estoy regando 500ml, excepto esta última vez que les he echado 1.5 litros y solo les salió del macetero unos 250ml. Soy todo oídos y muchas gracias