Week 3 of flower 12-12 Shes been top dressed. 2 tbs buildaflower 1 craft, 1/4 cup poo. Well i dressed 2 days ago with the others. Just just got it watered in today. Cal/mag 5ml, drops 1ml. Recharge 1/2 tsp. ( Split the water) And 14 ml EM1.

7/3 fed her some slf-100 and some recharge. She seems happy and super developed for how young she is. Not necessarily very tall but shes got a lot of nodes and seems far into her life for only just starting week 2 7/5 growing just fine. I attempted some LST that failed. Shes too short and stocky

Day 36: "Hey everyone! Just a quick update: I removed a few more leaves here and there and did one last round of LST (low stress training). 🌿 The plants are looking great, and I'm going to let them recover now before sending them into the flowering stage. I'm really excited to see them start blooming in 2-3 weeks! Also, a quick update on our temperature issue: today, the temperature stayed below 26.8°C, which is great news! However, we still need to find a solution to keep the humidity levels up. Our 360 m³/h exhaust system isn't able to maintain the required humidity level. I've calculated that we need a humidifier that can evaporate 1800ml/h to maintain 60-70% humidity, which would help manage the temperature better. Does anyone have tips for a good humidifier or other methods to control the humidity and temperature? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Day 37: Hey everyone! Tomorrow, we're planning to buy some Cal-Mag because we suspect the yellowing leaves might be due to a calcium-magnesium deficiency. We're also going to get a pH test kit to make sure everything is balanced properly. Do you think this is a good idea? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Day 38: Hey everyone! Quick update: it turns out the yellowing leaves were due to a nitrogen deficiency. We increased the fertilizer dosage today, so the plants should start looking better in 4 to 5 days. 🌿 Thanks for all the support and suggestions Day 39: Hey everyone! Another quick update: after increasing the fertilizer yesterday to address the nitrogen deficiency, it should take about 4 to 5 days for the yellow leaves to turn green again. 🌿 We're already seeing improvements! The plants have grown significantly and are developing a dense canopy once more. It's great to see them bouncing back so quickly! Day 41: "Hey everyone! Quick update: we've removed the bands we were using for LST (low stress training) and are now letting the plants grow freely. 🌿 We plan to keep them in the vegetative phase for about one more week before transitioning them to the flowering phase. Excited to see how they continue to develop!"

This plant has been going strong for sometime now. I’m starting this grow diary so soon because I need to keep track of how much longer I have until it’s ready for harvest. I already forgot what day I switched to bloom lol. But I’ll be posting weekly. With better pictures.

Photo from week one and two and three now

et voila. celle ci démarre super bien. Elle à l'air forte, résistante, prête a tout . Une Rambeu quoi..😜 09/05 jusqu'à la tout va bien. 12/05 la tige ma parut un petit peu fine, la lampe doit être un peut trop haute, mais ca a l'air d'aller. Une tige haute sera peut-être plus facile a gérer en Lst. J'améliore mon système petit a petit. Il y a beaucoup à faire encore .

Growth has been great, just plain water for this girl growing in organic super soil. I’ve started a slow transition to flower, extending her night by 15 minutes every day until I get to 11/13. I’ve also started Foliage spray of a very week seaweed and water solution (¼ recommended dose every other day.

👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrfication process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

The buds are starting to look delicious

Hello everyone 😎 Week 5 of flower for the Gorilla Cookies auto from Fast Buds 💥🍪 She grew fast with a beautiful green color,for the nutrient 4ml/L terra bloom & 1ml/L power buds & Green sensation 1ml/L from Plagron Spider Farmer SE-7000 70% Have a nice day 😋

Let’s Go Day 81!!!! This week went real great 2 Ogreberrys are hanging to dry and also the Bruce Banner is too after there 48 hr of darkness! The 3 other Ogreberrys began flush on Monday so finish out this week of flush and one more week of flush after that an they will get the chop too! But stay stunned for next week , we’re not done yet so keep them eyes peeled!! Y’all have an amazing productive day as well as a great week ! Peace love an positive vibes to everybody Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨🤙🏻

Day 65, 17th of November 2020: Welcome back at the beggining of the 3rd week of flowering. They seem to be stopped streching and now concentrating on buds. All of them are gorgeous..... The 2 Zamnesia genetics Gelato and Kalini Asia are pretty and buds are forming nicely. Kalini Asia might strech a bit more but not long. The Sweet Seed ones are really nice and I am so happy because Red Hot Cookies is already getting red.... pistils and around the leaves.. I hope the same happens to the Red Mandarine and Tropicanna Poison also. They are so gorgeous. They calmed down I don't expect more strech. Fertilization still the same every 2nd day with the ratio and mix above. Some lollipopping (Defoliation) is also done. I removed all the LST the plant remains in the same shape from now. The lamp is on 11.30 min and off 12.30 min. Last week was 15 min longer light cycle.... So every week 15 min shorter light cycle until the 5th week. So far -30 min. It switches on at 6 am and off at 17.30 pm.

I took a sample off the bud to see how it’ll look dried, so the plan is to cut the plant off Sunday! All I wanted is something to smoke and at this point I’m happy that seems to be the reality after the drying&curing process! Amazing feel! Some powdery mildew starting but shouldn’t be a problem if I cut soon!

Seeds started to pop about 4-5 days after germination I got 100% germ on this run

For the last month, I've been dealing with severe back issues. Not gonna lie, but it's been challenging to keep up with daily DWC chores. That aside, this particular girl also experienced ph swings, so reservoir change end of mid-week 6 flower. I also switched from Fox Farm to GH trio and supplementing with FF Chi Ching during week 5 and into week 6 w/ppm running at 800. Next bucket change, I will begin lowering ppm to 500-520 range. I'll continue bringing ppm down right up until flush. She's finishing nice, given what little I've been able to do physically. Ganja Farmer Seed genetics, so happy with first run using this breeders gear and happy w/results so far being this is my first attempt at DWC. Enjoy the PHOTOS and hit LIKE, if you're inclined to do so :)

This lady had some super stinky terps coming along. She is a very pleasant smell to wake up to as I don't run a carbon filter. I'm very pleased with her colors and how frosty she is already. I hope you guys enjoy as much as I. Check back next week to see just how fast she buds & remember its 4:20 somewhere!!!!!!

looks like a girl, she's already recovered from the sting :) she looks healthy, she's really short :) but she has a lot of branches:) everything is going well:) good luck to you.

This week i flushing a plant 7-10days and use ice burn then close a light before hardvest 2days