Oh baby there she goes making resin. She is growing at 7000ft the sun is strong and windy. She is a beast and I hope she is going to turn red/purple.

So this marks the end of the 5th week and start of the 6th. Should I be topping it now or give it another week? Some of the leaves look a bit sad and droopy, is that from lack nutrients or over/under water? Over all I'm surprised I've kept it alive so long and that its going well. I have a new light coming, ViparSpectra p1000 100w and some food as well ADVANCED NUTRIENTS PH PERFECT BLOOM GROW MICRO. Help and hints always welcome!

Que pasa familia, vamos con la cosecha de estas Gorilla Melon de FastBuds. Por dónde empezar, las flores son bien compactas y van repletas de resina son muy pegajosas, tienen tonos verdes bonitos, y tiene unos aromas dulces y exóticos bastante marcados con toques terrosos. Es muy sencilla de cultivar, es de ciclo de 2 meses y medio, pero bien agradecida, tiene buenos satélites, de las que plante de fastbuds, podría decir que mi favorita hasta el momento. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Gonna a bit more NITROGEN!☘️

Happy New Year!!! Over the past week I did some HST bending. The branches are starting to recover and straighten out after the HST now. I still have some issues with pale leaves and a few spots here and there. I’m going to try adding some Dolomite Lime with the next watering and think that should help with the paleness. I’m also going to up the amount of CalMag and Mammoth P to see if that helps with the spotting. I’m not sure if I should see the spotted leaves recover or if the spots will remain. I suspect the spots will remain on the existing leaves regardless of what I do at this point, but hopefully no new spotting will develop. The lights went off before I was done taking pics, so some pics will look a little different. The pics with the lights on I had to color correct, they still look a little more on the yellow side than in reality, but much closer to reality than the pre-color corrected versions. Once the lights went off I turned the flash on for my camera, those pics did not need any color correction. You can see the differences in the pics of all plants, the first 2 are color corrected with the lights on, the last 2 are taken with a flash and no color correction. I read several books on cannabis over the past few days, some good, some not so much. One that I liked was “Marijuana Cultivation Reconsidered: The Science and Techniques For Huge Indoor Yields” by Read Spear. This book is available on Amzon’s Kindle Unlimited service, which costs $9.99/month, but they offer a free 30 day trial (which is what I’m using at the moment). Reed’s book is broken down into 3 sections, the first and third go fairly deep into the science behind growing, he does a pretty good job at breaking it down in easy to understand terms, but I had to read several sections 2 or 3 times to really get it (or just move on with as much understanding as I could digest). The second section is the nuts and bolts of growing. Most was a review but there were several topics he touched on I hadn’t thought of in a while. And again its well written. He also offers the section only in a separate book called “Small Spaces, Big Yields”. If you are not interested in going deeper into the science behind growing, “Small Spaces, Big Yields” is what I would recommend (if interested in reading books on cannabis). I took some notes while reading and I’m going to add some of these notes in my dairy updates over the next few weeks. This week I’m going to include a note on electrical, this should be a fairly basic concept, but it is super important IMO… “Electrical Items In a sealed grow room or in a tent, you will have water pooling on the floor from time to time. There is no avoiding this. Mop it up when you see it, and never put your electrical gear directly on the floor. Never. Not even for a moment. In fact, let me stress this point in bold capital letters. ALL ELECTRICAL GEAR MUST BE MOUNTED SECURELY ON A WALL OR TENT POLE.” -Read Spear I’ll add more did bits like this in my diaries over the upcoming weeks. If anyone has any good book recommendations please let me know in the comments. I’m looking for books that might not be as popular as the ones by Jorge Cervantes or Ed Rosenthal (I’ve read those). I did just order “True Living Organics” by The Rev which I’m looking forward to reading. But I’m looking for more. I really want to step it up and learn as much as possible. Your comments, feedback and recommendations are very much appreciated! Until next time, Happy Growing! Stay Positive! And have an amazing 2019!!!

Esta es una genética de un olor muy fuerte y pesado se siente intenso desde la vegetación , es una variedad muy resinosa con unos colores morados hermosos , probando las flores cuando terminó el secado y ahora curando las flores se siente un sabor terroso , al principio no me gusto ya que nunca había probado este , pero después al seguir fumando se siente un sabor final muy agradable. Esta genética se conservará para futuros cruces y experimentar algo nuevo. muy conforme con la producción de cada clon

salut a tous bonne semaine ça gonfle la résine commence a apparaitre légère décoloration des feuilles inférieures sinon au top vivement la semaine prochaine bon jardinage a tous peace

She's doing well this week. 16cm vertical growth.

Hey everyone! 🌱✨ I’m continuing my work with CRFH4-F2. I’ve selected 10+ top plants that showed the best results at germination. Right now, they’re finishing up root development, and soon we’ll see some serious growth! 🚀🌿

Check out the videos guys, she is flowering real good even tho we are not using any special nute like big bud for example, but i really want to try it soon, hopefully! Still she is doing great and im happy to have her! How are you doing growers whats up!? Dont forget to leave a comment Any suggestion is welcome! We are happy to learn new things alwas, Thanks for the support happy growing everybody Enjoy the footage thanks to Siriuz

Plant #1, 2, 3 and 4, which undergone main-lining, are taller (105cm) than plant #5 (90cm) which didn't. Instead plant #5 shows flowers slightly bigger than the other plants. All the plants are in good health. I cut few yellow leaves on the lower branches and add some soil near the plant trunk because, due to watering, some of the top roots were not covered anymore. Smell it is not so strong but after having touch the plants, hands are quite scented

So I found this elastic SCROG wasn't doing for me ... so I just took it off . Lucky I'm working with a VERY resilient strain as it was cloned from a mother whom in which was the survivor of my 75 plant loss. So this this was burnt to a crisp without water for a little over 14 DAYS . So I wouldn't try this with anything I wasnt sure could "take the heat" . With it off the buds just kinda flopped a bit but still retained alot of resilience; the beautiful things . Now I could name about 100 things I could have done better . But if you think your "the best grower ever " that's a pretty used minded way to look at it . But am I proud of myself . Yeah :) - slow down feed to leave terp at end . Dnuah Dnauh... next week THE ATTACK OF THE CANNABALIST

Awesome growth! Topped above the second node, then Mainlined to have 6 main nodes total through lollipopping. She was trained using LST, until week2 flower.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

I mean this genetics it's excellent ... if I would grow zombie kush again ... good job ripper seed ... she fought and was very strong against the plagues after a beginning outdoors ... she fought against the white fly. worms .. red spider and other insects ... and deserves your recognition ... it will not be the most beautiful plant with its leaves impeccable ... but she is a champion ... thank you ripper seed .. .

Well all is good and moving along.. remember its more like week 9 now. i will start flushing in a few days maybe

Problem of the leaves are solted it was because the soil was working a lot because it is rich it needed time and multiple watering now it's good she is in love in this soil 💚 she will be transplanted soon outdoor