7. Woche Sie befindet sich mitten in der Bloom. Letzte Woche hatte sie Probleme mit Calmag und dann hab ich bisschen gegengesteuert. Soweit sehen die Ladys gut aus 😃 👍🏻

Day 15 wow they are growing so fast Day 16 all girls got a flush we thought we might be putting to much nuts in it Day 17 I still can’t believe how fast these girl’s grow Day 18 all girls growing good Day 20 girls got over watered yesterday so taking the day off Day 21- last day of week 3 and growing great girls got watered today

The buds on Black Opium are looking so fat, and they're so heavy I've had to stake the plant with my new stronger stakes. I have tied the stakes to the stems with soft fabric ties. I couldn't be happier with the results that we have so far, and I think we are still a few weeks away from harvest. Quite a lot of the pistils are still white. I like to leave my plants a little bit longer. Just to make sure that they're ready. I always check the trichomes. Maybe she'll even stack on some more weight who knows, fingers crossed, and we'll see what happens! I'm just trying to keep the buds and the stems intact. The plant has definitely increased the need for water and feedings. I have added an additional 100Watt UVA/UVB lamp, as the uppermost canopy of Acapulco Gold is blocking pretty much everything in the tent. Hopefully, this will aid the shorter plants in surviving until I can harvest it. There will be so much more space and lighting. Can't wait! 😅 Here is what I did this week. 25.9.25: I watered with 3.25L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 with; 💜 Sea K 2.5TSP 💜 Cal-Mag 1.5TSP 💜 Biosys 2TSP PH: 6.5 PPM: 1020 The fungus gnats have really incresed since I did a watering of the whole tent. I have some more sticky traps set out, and I will not water for several days. Once it has dried the top soil, I will add some more Diatomaceous Earth to the top 5cm. Thanks for checking in this week and see you in the comments 👌💚🙌🧡😁

Growing kind of slow haven’t topped second time yet think I might not thinking just let her go from here on

Week 3 three had ended into the fourth week with some pollen dusted on one of the branches....let's see what happen

These girls are still perfect. You want a picture perfect set of plants and it's these they are all damn identical i am still blown away by how close they are from growing from seed! The only real diffrnce is 1 has slightly wider smaller leafs so more leaned indica hybrid but all the spacing between the 4 are about the same. They have been receiving about 500ml of food/ water about every 3 days with the ph at 5.6-5.7. Will top these girls soon to get a couple heads started just didn't want to end the symmetry. Still no smell or sign of preflower yet, with a stem rub they feel sticky to touch and only smell green so just tells me they healthy. Soon a smell will come along! Peace be with you!

Hello everyone, people! This is the largest Autoflowering plant that I have ever grown!)) The photo still does not convey the entire volume and its size .. it is just gigantic! fills a 1 square meter grow tent .. flowering started well! and develops without any problems .. received the first doses today Nirvana and Big Bud from advanced nutrients!!

Will up date in a week or 2

it stands stable in the wind, withstands hot days and continues to grow. but unfortunately still no signs of flowering. she still has 2 months before i move. i hope she makes it. she gets fertiliser every 2 days.

🌿 Week 6: Explosive Side Growth & The Recovery Phase Strain: Sticky Broccoli Auto 🥦 Stage: Late Vegetation / Pre-Flowering Light Cycle: 18/6 📝 The General Vibe The "Sticky Broccoli" is really starting to live up to its name not because of the resin yet, but because she’s bushing out like crazy! After pinning the main terminal down last week, the side branches have officially taken over. Despite my shoulder injury, the garden is thriving, proving that a little bit of LST goes a long way. 🍽️ The Menu (Nutrients) Still staying consistent with the Plagron and BioBizz regimen. Root-Juice: 3ml (Finalizing the root base) Bio-Grow: 2ml (Supporting the leafy explosion) Bio-Down: 1ml (Keeping that pH stable around 5.9 for the coco mix) Observations: The redistribution of auxins worked perfectly. I now have 4-6 secondary tops that are all competing to be the new main lead. The stem is thickening up nicely, and I’m starting to see the first signs of "pre-flower" pistils. 👽 Final Thoughts Gardening with one hand was a workout, but seeing these results makes it worth it. The "Kewpie" Garden Managers are still on duty and seem happy with the progress. Next week, I expect a significant vertical stretch as she prepares to flower!

Hey all! This was a crazy week. The girls continued growing up and have reached 30" (CBD+ and Moby Dick) and 23" (GG #4), pretty much outgrowing my vertical space. I removed my carbon filter (which was clogged and needing maintenance anyways) and pushed my LED lights all the way up, allowing CBD+ and Moby Dick to stay 7" away and GG#4 12" away. Although the LED manufacturer recommend a distance of at least 14", the girls seems to be liking the strong light and have not shown any light burns. One of the MD colas is only 4" away! ~~ Defoliation I've finally gained courage and heavy defoliated the girls (Schwazzing style). I removed one fan leave in each node + top leaves that were creating lots of shade. I'm looking forward to see the results of this so much controversial technique! ~~Feeding Since GG#4 presented some nut burns, they received only one scheduled feeding plus one "watering" (only Cal Mag, Florilicious Plus, and Molasses, Ph = 6.0). Next week I'll come back to the normal feeding schedule.

Changes again, this time it is what it is. Whatever comes out, in the end, is better than nothing. So I constructed a light board and have attached 120watts of CFL bulbs to this board so that it can surround the plants at a close distance. There is still more 2700k spectrum to it than 6500k, but it was either full 2700k or this. I have also added a fan and humidifier I got from a friend. I call it the moonball. So for +- 4 hours a day the plants will be in direct sun, then after they will go back into the moonball for the remaining 14 hours. Then for the very first time, and a new concept to me, I have started doing L.S.T. Excited about this, as I have seen many plants done in this technique and it always did make me curious as to how it is done. Now I will get to see it for my very own eyes and my own plants :) Hopefully, I am doing it, right? suggestions are welcomed, I am learning still. #justnotgivingup

Week number 4 , I had to swap the 55w neons ramps for the HID 600w MH , plants were overtaking the light coverage surface meaning it’s time to give some more growing space under more coverage ! Also, I will start giving the first feeding by the end of the week, around 700ppm’s / 1.4mS, Cellmax Soil Mix is pre-fertilized ( like most of all horticultural Soil Mix ) and as you can see plants didn’t need any extra feeding ! Topping the plants at the 3rd node at the seedlings stage didn’t make any stress at all , they just have redirected the energy in the sides shoots as you can see on the video. (Tip of the week : If you wanna play the chemist with your super duper nootz without burning your sh*t you better get an EC/TDS meter 😉 Following this diary to the end will learn you how to Water/or/Feed your plants) [Day 24] I was planning to Feed the plants by the end of the week, but as always things can changes from what you were expecting 😊 - Water + Earth Grow Mix + RootBooster + AllZymes [Day 27] - Water (P.S: Looking for a job in the Cannabis industry as Master Grower, Mineralogist, Quality Control 🐞) This Diary is updated daily ☝️

Week 14 The temperature has risen and has been quite high for the past days so I had to dial down the light to it's minimum. The plant is slowly starting to produce her flowers. I really like the low stress kebab stick method over the high stress and more risky super-cropping. I hope you enjoy the footage of this week! 😎

Despite a broken stem at the start of growth and a lack of time to take care of it properly, this strain still showed its strength 👌 Pretty buds covered in resin, this strain is still on top of current genetics 👍

Week 8 January - 14 January 10/1 - feeding day

This week I added canna pk and dropped canna A and B down to 5. I was seeing some leaf tips burning. Should I continue with the PK or stop like the canna site says?

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered only roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 77°F to 95°F, depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 104°F, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently.