Esta semana el cambio en los cogollos es mas que visible. Se han bañado en resina y estan cogiendo colores morados tanto en las hojas como en el propio fruto la mayoria. Al subirles el co2 a 1100 ppm estan consumindo mas agua y generando mas humedad e tenido que enchufar el deshumidificafor al maximo para mantener la humedad entre el 40 y el 50 por ciento. El olor es impresionante para faltarle 1 mes por delante mas o menos... los tonos a naranja acida son claros... como si fueran orange sherbert 🤷‍♂️ pero desde luego no me quejo porque es muy pero que muy notorio. La temperatura la mantendre entre 26 y 27 gradosasta las dos ultimas semana de lavado de raices que la bajare a 24 grados para que compacten los cogollos. Y la EC la mantendre a 1.8 una semana mas y las fos ultimas semanas de aporte seran a 1.9 y 2.0 respectivamente.

Week 6 for grape glaze we see some colour starting to come through real nicely. Trichomes popping out of the buds, they will really stand out when all trimmed up. Will be running this again 100% have 6 more seeds to pheno hunt.

Sorry for the late video post.. I was assaulted and 2 of my 23 year old cats passed away 2 days ago.. So it's been a rough few weeks. Transplanted and flipped to 12/12 6-18-2020

Vamos familia, actualizamos la segunda semana de vida de estas Panty Punch de Seedstockers, salieron 3 una se resiste a tirar adelante, veremos cómo progresan. Empezamos añadiendo varios productos de la gama de Agrobeta. Temperatura y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. Muy pronto realizaré el trasplante correspondiente a 7 litros. Vamos viendo cómo avanzan estas próximas semanas. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

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Start Woche 6: Jetzt wird final “gesetzt”. Nach dem strukturierten Aufbau in Woche 5 liegt der Fokus diese Woche darauf, die Pflanzen in eine stabile, performante Endform zu bringen: gleichmäßiges Canopy, saubere Lichtverteilung und eine Rootzone, die das Topfvolumen aktiv nutzt. Ziel ist, dass jede Top-Zone unter vergleichbaren Bedingungen arbeitet – das ist die Grundlage für eine effiziente nächste Phase. 🌿✅ Canopy / Training • Feintuning statt Stress: LST wird nur noch gezielt nachjustiert, um Tops auf eine Ebene zu bringen und Schattenzonen zu minimieren. • Struktur sichern: Triebe werden so geführt, dass Luftfluss im Inneren bleibt und keine überlappenden Blattpakete entstehen. • Priorität: gleichmäßige Spitzenhöhe + klare Triebführung → maximale Nutzfläche unter der Lampe. Klima & Licht (Wachstum pushen, ohne zu überfahren) Woche 6 entscheidet oft, wie “smooth” der Übergang später läuft. Daher: • Klima stabil halten, sodass Transpiration sauber läuft (keine kalten Bremsen, kein stehender Dampf). • Licht/Abstand so einstellen, dass die Pflanzen aktiv wachsen, aber ohne unnötigen Stress (Leaf-Pray, keine aufrollenden Kanten). Bewässerung / Rootzone Mit 7-L Pots ist jetzt wichtig, dass die Rootzone konstant arbeitet: • Rhythmus beibehalten, nicht hin- und herspringen. • Ziel: gleichmäßig feucht + maximaler Sauerstoff → aktive Wurzelspitzen = schnellerer Zuwachs. • Wenn der Topf schneller leicht wird, ist das ein gutes Zeichen: mehr Wurzelmasse, höherer Verbrauch. Plan für diese Woche Diese Woche wird die Form final fixiert: Canopy glätten, Mikroklima verbessern, Rootzone stabil halten. Wenn alles sauber läuft, ist das die perfekte Ausgangslage, um die Pflanzen kontrolliert in die nächste Phase zu führen. 🔥🏆

doing great just having issues with humidity. Been slacking on maintaing them and some main colas ended up getting covered by fan leaves.

Week of sweeping has occured... I doubt there going to get any taller just alot fatter.. the gorilla punch is a mutant and is turning purple early on so we may have a full purple buds! The banana purple punch is crazy triched out early on and can't wait till it finishes!

to view this lamp or any other marshydro product go to: https://instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Starting to stack up and ghe ones I flipped a little ealier than tbe rest should be ready in a few weeks

Everything seemed to gain in height, pineapple is starting to flower, smoothie is really taking off with sweet gelato about week into flower

I’m so blown away by my second grow in soil, you guys just don’t understand, This journey is making my next run legendary in my mind , I’m dialing it in on the science to make her harvest heavy

January 24, 2019 The girls are doing WELL. My autos (Blackberry and NYC Diesel) are mid-flush now and will be chopped down this weekend. The Blackberry is a beautiful purple and smells lovely. This week she's been getting water only as a flush. I'm going to flush her one more time tomorrow, then chop her down over the weekend. 👍 ***January 26, 2019 update*** Cut down the FastBuds Blackberry and Barneys Farm NYC Diesel today and added a pic of the hanging branches. The NYC Diesel buds are much more dense than the Blackberry. The Blackberry buds are pretty loose and airy. I'm curious to see what they look like after drying for a week. Stay tuned...

Flowers stacking

Following RQS auto guide : https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-autoflowering-cannabis-n83 WEEK 6: THINGS START TO SMELL #36 19.4. - #42 25.4. #36 19.4. -Just Remotemonitoring #37 20.4. -Defoliated a lot, about 40-50 leafes/lower branches that wont make it to the surface anyway. -Raised the lamps 10cm #38 21.4. -Watered with nutes 1,5liters/plant #39 22.4. -Attached net and startd ScrOG:ing #40 23.4. -Just Remotemonitoring #41 24.4. -Watered 1,5/plant with nutes, so far 12liters in last 6days, so a ½liter/day/plant. -ScrOG adjustments #42 25.4. -Just Remotemonitoring

3/4/2023 Week 3- Day 1 of Veg (Day 31 overall) Water Change out Day 36 Gallons in CalMag = .5Mil/Gal = 18Mil FloraMicro = 4.2Mil/Gal = 151Mil FloraGrow = 3.8Mil/Gal = 137Mil FloraBloom = 3.0Mil/Gal = 108Mil PH DOWN = 1.72Mil/Gal = 62Mil PPM = 546 PH = 5.88 This Grow has definitely been an interesting grow I have been playing with Over or Under since the beginning and it all started with me drowning the plants by adding too much water. I will have to make sure I watch that on all my future grows. I prayerful that this week will get me fully back on track, in my previous grows using my chart, I haven't had any issues during this week, so again prayerful that this is the week I am back on point. 3/5/2023 Week 3- Day 2 of Veg (Day 32 overall) ROOT ROT!!! I guess from when I drowned it I caused a lurking issue that really showed it's head today. The roots were looking not slightly bleached but looking black. I cut out what looked dead and I had to run to the local Hydro shop to pick up some items to see if I can fix it and strengthen the plants. I picked up Mammoth Silica, ORCA, and ROOT Drip. I completely drained the system and started it over today as well. 38 Gallons In Mammoth Silica = .5Mil/Gal = 19Mil CalMag= .5Mil/Gal = 19Mil Root Drip = 1Mil/Gal = 38Mil FloraMicro = 4.2Mil/Gal = 160Mil FloraGro = 3.8Mil/Gal = 144Mil FloraBloom = 3.0Mil/Gal = 114Mil Orca = .5Mil/Gal = 19Mil PH Down 60 Mil = PH 5.83 I also had to run by Staples I realized the paper I was using wasn't the right brightness and Lbs for the Photon App. What I needed to have 22Lbs 98 Bright. I recently saw a comparison of the different weight papers against a several hundred dollar Apage PPFD detector and with the right paper it was almost exact readings. With that my PPFD 355. 3/6/2023 Week 3- Day 3 of Veg (Day 33 overall) Still alive!! #2 and #3 are still alive and it looks like no further damage to any of the leaves. #2 needed 1 node topped. I will keep monitoring day to day. 3/7/2023 Week 3- Day 3 of Veg (Day 34 overall) Well Both appear to be doing all right. I cut off the offensive leaves from #3 nothing new on shown on the leaves. I actually needed to top 1 node on #2. PH is stable, Temps are stable.. I will be changing out the water and Nutes on Saturday not waiting the 2 weeks. 3/8/2023 Week 3- Day 4 of Veg (Day 35 overall) Well Both appear to be doing all right. I actually needed to top 1 node on #3 and 2 on #2. PH is stable, Temps are stable.. I will be changing out the water and Nutes on Saturday not waiting the 2 weeks. I think the additives are truly making a difference I think I will be adding them to all my grows from here on out. 3/9/2023 Week 3- Day 5 of Veg (Day 36 overall) Both still appear to be on the mend Still some dark brown on a small part of the roots and I don't know if those are just dead but it doesn't look like it is spreading and I see a bunch of new roots forming. Nothing new on the leaves at all. So I think the trio that I added is helping. The plants also seem to be in raised happy position going towards the light. I still plan to change the water on Saturday and go from there. 3/10/2023 Week 3- Day 6 of Veg (Day 37 overall) Moved the light up to 41 1/2" so 3' 4 1/2" away from the top of the Plants. PPFD= 363 Power on my Light =62.5 Water Temp is holding steady=70.3 PPM= 534 PH= 5.92 Tent Temp= 72.5 Humidity= 50-60% I have 2 humidifiers running on INK Bird controllers monitoring it 24/7. I will be changing out the water tomorrow even though I could let it go an extra week but I am still concerned that the Root Rot is clearing up and I don't want to risk it coming back. I want fresh Nutes/ water in the tanks. I topped 2 nodes on #3 I topped 3 Nodes on #2 I also cleaned out some of the bottom third portion that isn't getting much light and not much growth at all. #2: 8 1/2" tall, 18" Wide #3: 7 1/2" Tall, 15" Wide

Flowers starting to show. Week 3 since I flipped to flower

Everything is going well; colas are packing on weight. Will try to get some trichrome pics next week. Photos/video taken 105 days after breaking soil, day 42 of flower.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY EDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂