Made sure the run off was 0.5ms, the water that I feed with has a reading of 0.3ms so I'm looking forward to when she has dried and cured so I can update with the smoke review

All is good in the tent. The girl is growing and getting used to the new pot and tent. The humidity is higher in this smaller one and she likes that. Now even has some roommates for a week before she's left alone. Lights at 40% power. Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/

🎩🌈🍬 Pheno 4 Purps comin slowly Terps super exotic

All good here ☺️

12/16 - Howdy there, growers. Here we are at the start of week 11 for this lady. Day 77 from seed. She still have a little ways to go, but she is coming along quite nicely. Buds are stacked and rock hard and getting frostier by the day. I'm trying not to rush this one. I removed the Pro-TeKt from her regimen as she isn't growing anymore. I switched her feed over to ~1.0ec (500ppm) to taper her down during her last two weeks. I am also going to taper the lighting schedule down as we approach chop on her once her sister is no longer in the tent. Thanks for checking out the garden, and, as always, Happy Growing!

Day 1 week 2 Day 2 week 2 Day 3 week 2

2 of the 5 coco plants are doing good but 3 others were looking awful and got behind. It was a bit unexpected. I've never had such unhealthy plants before. The peat side is doing good The runoff PH on some plants was 5.2. Adding way too much phophoric acid to get to 5.5 (Plagron recommendation) Well, fuck their recommendations. looking objectively, they are so dark green that the EC of 2 is probably also unnecessarily high. After a few waterings they are back to normal PH and EC, growing well again and getting back on track! Now I will not go above 1.5 or 1.6 anymore. === update I got some of those white crawling bugs. They came up after watering. I hit them with Gnatrol WDG and BAC vitality (as root drench) and they died. They only live in the air-pots. After the nuke I had to flush out the pots with 4 liters of nutrient solution because the PH came down to 5.

I am honestly blown away with how amazing all 3 plants done! I didn’t really have any deficiencies or issues with any of them the entire grow & it really shows in the quality & weight these ladies put off! Bud smells almost like licorice & has a very sweet taste when smoking! If you havnt already make sure to go check out New420Guyseeds, he has extremely fast shipping, great prices and quality genetics! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!🙏🏼✌️🏼🌱

Started 8 seeds (friend’s hermed a deimos and got seeds and gave me) at a wet towell paper and moved to a basic garden soil that i had at home. Transfered 5 to 1.5Liter pots 50% peat moss 50% perlite with 0 EC and got stunted at the start for 1 and a half month and at week 14 transfered 3 of them at larger pots as described and kept one of the remaining 1.5Liter pot. Watering with just water until i flip to flower because of recent transfer to rich soil. one of the transplanted to bigger pots was stuck for 2 months and then turned out to become a "monster cropped" plant without aplying any techniques to achieve this condition, after stunt started growing in multiple directions. 07/16/2023 - flipped to 12/12 light. 07/17/2023 - fed with 0.5 ml/L biobizz bio-bloom / 0.5 ml/L biobizz top max / 0.5 ml/L biobizz bio-heaven - 225 PPM. lower than indicated dosage because organic soil still has some stored to spare. bigger one - 700 ml monster crop one - 500ml the other one - 700ml 07/18/2023 - sprayed neem oil after lights off as a pest preventive. 07/20/2023 - fed with biobizz line: 0,4 ml/L bio-grow 0,4 ml/L bio-bloom, 0,4 ml/L top max, 0,3ml/L bio-heaven and 0,4ml/L alg-a-mic. still lower dosage than indicated by biobizz because no signs of deficiency and soil seems to be full of nutes still. bigger one - 500ml monster crop - 300ml the other - 500ml 7/21/2023 - im sure i miscalculated number of plants x grow area and im having some space problems. As a try to fix this i removed a quite large number of leafs that was covering some bud spots.

Entramos en la 9 semana y seguimos con heladas en el exterior , las mínimas con luces apagadas son de 15º y las máximas con luces encendidas

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. I don't recommend. Adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

These guys seem to have some stunted growth from being in that shitty rock wool dish setup I had but they are making up for it now that they are in the air pots. I transplanted them into sunshine #4 because my other plants have had problems with N tox in coco loco, the only other soil mix I have...probably won’t ever be using fox farm soil again. Too expensive for what it is and it’s a pain in the ass dealing with nute probs. Day 8: into the new grow tent tomorrow

Another week gone. The smell is extremely strong now, even with the carbon filter. Buds are huge and very dense. Should be a nice harvest! Probably about 2-3 weeks left now 😎

The run continues nicely, we still had some temperatures of nutritive solution a little high with the heat of Danielle. It drops drastically in 2 days so I will finally finish this growth in the calm one and will be able to begin my bloom on September 24th. I apply hydrogen peroxide at a rate of 0.5ML/L, twice a week as a treatment. The root Rot X is used every ten days when changing the nutritive solution. I put less water in my system, in order to create a wet zone and a dry zone, I make sure that the roots are always immersed of course. As soon as the temperature drops, I will switch to 800 ppfd for the end of growth and depending on the evolution of the plants I may add some sensi grow a and b to increase the ec a little. If you are attentive, you will observe on the tips of the leaves or even on the leaves, spots of burns or deficiencies, it is simply the consequence of the pythium a few days earlier. The last growth update will be around September 24/25.

Muito cheirosa e grudenta! Deve ser uma genética excelente para extração com gelo.

Hello Diary, It's time for another round. I am continuing with F1 strains since I am delighted with Medusa F1. This time I will have three different strains on the "Farm" Apollo, Milky Way and Titan. I will keep separate diaries for each strain, and this one is dedicated to Apollo F1. First, here is some information about the strain itself. APOLLO F1 Apollo F1 is a vigorous autoflowering hybrid that boasts a strong structure and delicious aromas. Created from inbred lines descending from Lemon, Black Domina, and Sugar Magnolia, Apollo F1 inherited premium genetics from all of its predecessors. Apollo F1 produces balanced, creative effects that might inspire your perception of music, dance, poetry, and more! Mature and well-dried Apollo F1 flowers boast an upfront fresh aroma that combines crisp pine and herbal notes with the invigorating kick of ripe citrus peels. Accentuating these notes is a rich backdrop of dark vanilla and hints of lavender, reminiscent of modern cannabis varieties descending from Cookies and other US lineages. Flowering time - 45-50 days SET-UP ON MY LITTLE FARM: Box - Secret Jardin DS120W 120x60x178 Lights - MIGRO 200+ Ventilation - TT Silent-M 100 Filter - Primaklima filter PK 100/125 Fan - Oscillating Koala Fan X 2 Humidifier - Beurer LB 45 Soil - BioBizz Light - Mix Pot - 11L Air pots Seed - Royal Queen Seeds Nutrition - RQS Organic nutrition I can now officially start the journal. 20/04/2023 Planting plants. As usual, I prepare everything I need for planting in advance. I still use Air-pots because they are really great. For the soil, I used BioBizz - Light Mix, which I filled 2/3 of the container and then added the Organic booster in pellets, Mycorrhiza and Rhizobacter. I mixed everything together well with the soil and filled the container to the top. I soaked the earth well with 2 liters of water, made a small hole, put the seed and lightly covered it with earth. The conditions on the Farm are good, the temperature is around 25 degrees while the humidity is around 50%. I think that after sprouting I will put a humidifier to increase the humidity. 23/04/2023 I sprinkled some water on the surface of the earth to let them know where they should go. 24/04/2023 Apollo F1 sprouted like its other two roommates. 26/04/2023 First watering. I regulated the p.H. of water at 6.0 and watered the plant with maybe 0.5 liters of water. That's all for this week, see you soon.

After 1st big defoliation, Plants took 4 days to recover 100%. Started eating 1 day ago. Guzzled H2O tho. 5 day, early am, plants grew all fan leaves back but smaller. Fuzz and crystals are forming. Maybe 3 weeks if I lucky. Need to stretch. Small buds rn. 4 days after post video and trichome pic taken after defoliation during early flower/mid-flower